I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow
plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage
bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a
socket on the nut. Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver under
the head parallel to the surface of the wood to engage a flat side of
the square. What do you experts do?
Liz

Liz Megerle wrote:
I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow
plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage
bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a
socket on the nut. Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver under
the head parallel to the surface of the wood to engage a flat side of
the square. What do you experts do?
Liz

I take that to mean the bolt is counter-sunk? If so, how did that happen? I
mean whatever you used to counter-sink the bolt should be the same device
used to remove it.

If it's a carriage bolt, it has a nut somewhere. Can you attack it from that
direction?

HeyBub wrote:

Liz Megerle wrote:

I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow
plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage
bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a
socket on the nut. Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver under
the head parallel to the surface of the wood to engage a flat side of
the square. What do you experts do?
Liz


I take that to mean the bolt is counter-sunk? If so, how did that happen? I
mean whatever you used to counter-sink the bolt should be the same device
used to remove it.

If it's a carriage bolt, it has a nut somewhere. Can you attack it from that
direction?




I believe that Liz is saying that when she turns the nut, the bolt
turnes with it and the square under the bolt head reamed out the wood,
possibly because the nuts are a bit corroded onto the bolts.

If the nuts are accessable, she could buy a nut cracker and split them
so they'll slide off the threaded part of the bolts, then drive the
bolts out enough to grab the head and pull. Then buy some new nuts to suit.

Sears sells nutcrackers, and so do most auto parts stores:

http://tinyurl.com/4vbtwt

Good Luck,

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

Jeff Wisnia wrote:

HeyBub wrote:

Liz Megerle wrote:

I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow
plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage
bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a
socket on the nut. Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver under
the head parallel to the surface of the wood to engage a flat side of
the square. What do you experts do?
Liz


I take that to mean the bolt is counter-sunk? If so, how did that happen? I
mean whatever you used to counter-sink the bolt should be the same device
used to remove it.

If it's a carriage bolt, it has a nut somewhere. Can you attack it from that
direction?



I believe that Liz is saying that when she turns the nut, the bolt
turnes with it and the square under the bolt head reamed out the wood,
possibly because the nuts are a bit corroded onto the bolts.

If the nuts are accessable, she could buy a nut cracker and split them
so they'll slide off the threaded part of the bolts, then drive the
bolts out enough to grab the head and pull. Then buy some new nuts to suit.

Sears sells nutcrackers, and so do most auto parts stores:

http://tinyurl.com/4vbtwt


Since the carriage bolt heads are apparently above the surface given the
comment about the screwdriver, the easiest thing to do is to use a
hacksaw (or angle grinder with cutoff wheel) and make a slot in the bolt
head for the screwdriver.

On May 19, 5:47*pm, "Pete C." wrote:
Jeff Wisnia wrote:

HeyBub wrote:

Liz Megerle wrote:

I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow
plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage
bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a
socket on the nut. *Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver under
the head parallel to the surface of the wood to engage a flat side of
the square. What do you experts do?
Liz

I take that to mean the bolt is counter-sunk? If so, how did that happen? I
mean whatever you used to counter-sink the bolt should be the same device
used to remove it.

If it's a carriage bolt, it has a nut somewhere. Can you attack it from that
direction?

I believe that Liz is saying that when she turns the nut, the bolt
turnes with it and the square under the bolt head reamed out the wood,
possibly because the nuts are a bit corroded onto the bolts.

If the nuts are accessable, she could buy a nut cracker and split them
so they'll slide off the threaded part of the bolts, then drive the
bolts out enough to grab the head and pull. Then buy some new nuts to suit.

Sears sells nutcrackers, and so do most auto parts stores:

http://tinyurl.com/4vbtwt

Since the carriage bolt heads are apparently above the surface given the
comment about the screwdriver, the easiest thing to do is to use a
hacksaw (or angle grinder with cutoff wheel) and make a slot in the bolt
head for the screwdriver.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Or just use said cutoff wheel to cut the nut end of the bolt off, then
drive the stub through with a hammer and punch.

nate

Jeff Wisnia wrote in
eonecommunications:

HeyBub wrote:

Liz Megerle wrote:

I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow
plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage
bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a
socket on the nut. Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver
under the head parallel to the surface of the wood to engage a flat
side of the square. What do you experts do?
Liz


I take that to mean the bolt is counter-sunk? If so, how did that
happen? I mean whatever you used to counter-sink the bolt should be
the same device used to remove it.

If it's a carriage bolt, it has a nut somewhere. Can you attack it
from that direction?




I believe that Liz is saying that when she turns the nut, the bolt
turnes with it and the square under the bolt head reamed out the wood,
possibly because the nuts are a bit corroded onto the bolts.

If the nuts are accessable, she could buy a nut cracker and split them
so they'll slide off the threaded part of the bolts, then drive the
bolts out enough to grab the head and pull. Then buy some new nuts to
suit.

Sears sells nutcrackers, and so do most auto parts stores:

http://tinyurl.com/4vbtwt

Good Luck,

Jeff


I think they are called nut splitters.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Pete C." wrote in
:


Jeff Wisnia wrote:

HeyBub wrote:

Liz Megerle wrote:

I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the
snow plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the
carriage bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood
when I put a socket on the nut. Next weekend I'll try pounding a
screwdriver under the head parallel to the surface of the wood to
engage a flat side of the square. What do you experts do?
Liz


I take that to mean the bolt is counter-sunk? If so, how did that
happen? I mean whatever you used to counter-sink the bolt should be
the same device used to remove it.

If it's a carriage bolt, it has a nut somewhere. Can you attack it
from that direction?



I believe that Liz is saying that when she turns the nut, the bolt
turnes with it and the square under the bolt head reamed out the
wood, possibly because the nuts are a bit corroded onto the bolts.

If the nuts are accessable, she could buy a nut cracker and split
them so they'll slide off the threaded part of the bolts, then drive
the bolts out enough to grab the head and pull. Then buy some new
nuts to suit.

Sears sells nutcrackers, and so do most auto parts stores:

http://tinyurl.com/4vbtwt


Since the carriage bolt heads are apparently above the surface given
the comment about the screwdriver, the easiest thing to do is to use a
hacksaw (or angle grinder with cutoff wheel) and make a slot in the
bolt head for the screwdriver.

can you get a narrow enough wheel for an angle grinder?
Perhaps a Dremel and cutoff wheel.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

On May 19, 6:10�pm, Jim Yanik wrote:
"Pete C." wrote :







Jeff Wisnia wrote:

HeyBub wrote:

Liz Megerle wrote:

I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the
snow plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the
carriage bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood
when I put a socket on the nut. �Next weekend I'll try pounding a
screwdriver under the head parallel to the surface of the wood to
engage a flat side of the square. What do you experts do?
Liz

I take that to mean the bolt is counter-sunk? If so, how did that
happen? I mean whatever you used to counter-sink the bolt should be
the same device used to remove it.

If it's a carriage bolt, it has a nut somewhere. Can you attack it
from that direction?

I believe that Liz is saying that when she turns the nut, the bolt
turnes with it and the square under the bolt head reamed out the
wood, possibly because the nuts are a bit corroded onto the bolts.

If the nuts are accessable, she could buy a nut cracker and split
them so they'll slide off the threaded part of the bolts, then drive
the bolts out enough to grab the head and pull. Then buy some new
nuts to suit.

Sears sells nutcrackers, and so do most auto parts stores:

http://tinyurl.com/4vbtwt

Since the carriage bolt heads are apparently above the surface given
the comment about the screwdriver, the easiest thing to do is to use a
hacksaw (or angle grinder with cutoff wheel) and make a slot in the
bolt head for the screwdriver.

can you get a narrow enough wheel for an angle grinder?
Perhaps a Dremel and cutoff wheel.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

cut bolts at nuts if you can, easiest to replace bolts and nuts.

use galvanized or stainless so they dont rust in the future

Jim Yanik wrote:

Jeff Wisnia wrote in
eonecommunications:


HeyBub wrote:


Liz Megerle wrote:


I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow
plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage
bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a
socket on the nut. Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver
under the head parallel to the surface of the wood to engage a flat
side of the square. What do you experts do?
Liz


I take that to mean the bolt is counter-sunk? If so, how did that
happen? I mean whatever you used to counter-sink the bolt should be
the same device used to remove it.

If it's a carriage bolt, it has a nut somewhere. Can you attack it
from that direction?




I believe that Liz is saying that when she turns the nut, the bolt
turnes with it and the square under the bolt head reamed out the wood,
possibly because the nuts are a bit corroded onto the bolts.

If the nuts are accessable, she could buy a nut cracker and split them
so they'll slide off the threaded part of the bolts, then drive the
bolts out enough to grab the head and pull. Then buy some new nuts to
suit.

Sears sells nutcrackers, and so do most auto parts stores:

http://tinyurl.com/4vbtwt

Good Luck,

Jeff



I think they are called nut splitters.


Probably depends upon whom you ask.

The link to the Sears one I posted calls it a "Craftsman Nut Cracker".

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

Liz,

Get vice-grips. Grab the bolt with the vice-grips and turn the nut off.
Be careful not to damage the table but expect to replace the bolts.

Dave M.

"David L. Martel" wrote in
:

Liz,

Get vice-grips. Grab the bolt with the vice-grips and turn the nut
off.
Be careful not to damage the table but expect to replace the bolts.

Dave M.



*carriage bolt* heads don't have anything to grab onto.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

"Liz Megerle" wrote in message
news:t8mYj.1241$ay2.1029@trndny01...
I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow plow
this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage bolts. The
square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a socket on the
nut.

Happens all the time.

Basically, you have to cut off the bolt at the "hex" end.

If a washer was used under the hex nut, you can try a hack saw or a powered
version of the same (a "saws all").

The next step down is to drill out the volt from the "hex" end. When the
nut gets loose, you drive out the bolt.

The "final answer" is to grind off the hex nut with whatever power grinder
you can get in there.

"Sometimes" you can get a nut off with an impact wrench. Or you can "fix"
the flush end with glue and after the glue sets try turning the nut again.

Carriage bolts just are not designed for most soft woods. When you torque
down, you often bring the head below the surface of the wood. Folks also
tend to drill a hole that a little oversized for starts and soft woods
simply fail to hold the square all too often.

Where you NEED them because of the nearly flush surface they provide, you
might give them a little help with a drop or two of glue.

If you don't NEED them, use regular bolts with good sized washers.




** Posted from http://www.teranews.com **

In article t8mYj.1241$ay2.1029@trndny01,
Liz Megerle wrote:

I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow
plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage
bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a
socket on the nut. Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver under
the head parallel to the surface of the wood to engage a flat side of
the square. What do you experts do?
Liz

I'll vote with those who actually know what a carriage bolt is, and
second the suggestion to grind a screwdriver slot in the heads with a
dremel.

The nut=splitter is not a bad idea, either, if you have access to use
it. Picnic tables are sometimes constructed with counterbores for the
nut, so you'd not have access for a splitter.

"Liz Megerle" wrote in message
news:t8mYj.1241$ay2.1029@trndny01...
I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow plow
this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage bolts. The
square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a socket on the
nut. Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver under the head parallel
to the surface of the wood to engage a flat side of the square. What do you
experts do?
Liz



Try using some side-cutting wire cutters (sometimes called dikes). Try to
grab the edge of the bolt head with the cutting edges. I'm trying to
explain this as best I can, but the wire cutters need to be at a 90 degree
angle to the bolt head; i.e. sticking straight out. Grab them as tight as
you can to keep the bolt from spinning & try loosening the nut.

Smitty Two wrote in newsrestwhich-
:

In article t8mYj.1241$ay2.1029@trndny01,
Liz Megerle wrote:

I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow
plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage
bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a
socket on the nut. Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver under
the head parallel to the surface of the wood to engage a flat side of
the square. What do you experts do?
Liz

I'll vote with those who actually know what a carriage bolt is, and
second the suggestion to grind a screwdriver slot in the heads with a
dremel.

I was thinking hole saw :-)


The nut=splitter is not a bad idea, either, if you have access to use
it. Picnic tables are sometimes constructed with counterbores for the
nut, so you'd not have access for a splitter.

Jim Yanik wrote:

"Pete C." wrote in
:


Jeff Wisnia wrote:

HeyBub wrote:

Liz Megerle wrote:

I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the
snow plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the
carriage bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood
when I put a socket on the nut. Next weekend I'll try pounding a
screwdriver under the head parallel to the surface of the wood to
engage a flat side of the square. What do you experts do?
Liz


I take that to mean the bolt is counter-sunk? If so, how did that
happen? I mean whatever you used to counter-sink the bolt should be
the same device used to remove it.

If it's a carriage bolt, it has a nut somewhere. Can you attack it
from that direction?



I believe that Liz is saying that when she turns the nut, the bolt
turnes with it and the square under the bolt head reamed out the
wood, possibly because the nuts are a bit corroded onto the bolts.

If the nuts are accessable, she could buy a nut cracker and split
them so they'll slide off the threaded part of the bolts, then drive
the bolts out enough to grab the head and pull. Then buy some new
nuts to suit.

Sears sells nutcrackers, and so do most auto parts stores:

http://tinyurl.com/4vbtwt


Since the carriage bolt heads are apparently above the surface given
the comment about the screwdriver, the easiest thing to do is to use a
hacksaw (or angle grinder with cutoff wheel) and make a slot in the
bolt head for the screwdriver.

can you get a narrow enough wheel for an angle grinder?
Perhaps a Dremel and cutoff wheel.

The cutoff wheels I use in my angle grinder are about 1/16" thick.

On May 19, 7:18*pm, Liz Megerle wrote:
I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow
plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage
bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a
socket on the nut. *Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver under
the head parallel to the surface of the wood to engage a flat side of
the square. What do you experts do?
Liz

Coincidentally: Just today took two, well rusted such bolts out in
order to reuse a piece of wood.
Couldn't shift the nuts; although one started turning around the whole
bolt.
The nuts, with washers were fortunately not recessed into the wood.
The head ends of the coach bolts were virtually flush with the wood.
Used a hacksaw to cut into the square nuts at an angle I could reach
holding the pieces of wood firmly, until I could split the nuts apart
and beat them off with a small cold chisel and hammer.
If nuts had been recessed would probably have sharpened up a bigger
cold chisel and split the nut with sharp blows of the hammer.
One trick is to have something very firm and heavy below; so the force
of the blows on the cold chisel cutting edge really impacts the nuts
and cuts into them.
Bolt threads are rusty as anything but despite the rough treatment
breaking the nuts off, one of the two bolts, to our surprise, looks
reusable.

On May 19, 3:29Â*pm, " wrote:
On May 19, 6:10�pm, Jim Yanik wrote:





"Pete C." wrote :

Jeff Wisnia wrote:

HeyBub wrote:

Liz Megerle wrote:

I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the
snow plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the
carriage bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood
when I put a socket on the nut. �Next weekend I'll try pounding a
screwdriver under the head parallel to the surface of the wood to
engage a flat side of the square. What do you experts do?
Liz

I take that to mean the bolt is counter-sunk? If so, how did that
happen? I mean whatever you used to counter-sink the bolt should be
the same device used to remove it.

If it's a carriage bolt, it has a nut somewhere. Can you attack it
from that direction?

I believe that Liz is saying that when she turns the nut, the bolt
turnes with it and the square under the bolt head reamed out the
wood, possibly because the nuts are a bit corroded onto the bolts.

If the nuts are accessable, she could buy a nut cracker and split
them so they'll slide off the threaded part of the bolts, then drive
the bolts out enough to grab the head and pull. Then buy some new
nuts to suit.

Sears sells nutcrackers, and so do most auto parts stores:

http://tinyurl.com/4vbtwt

Since the carriage bolt heads are apparently above the surface given
the comment about the screwdriver, the easiest thing to do is to use a
hacksaw (or angle grinder with cutoff wheel) and make a slot in the
bolt head for the screwdriver.

can you get a narrow enough wheel for an angle grinder?
Perhaps a Dremel and cutoff wheel.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

cut bolts at nuts if you can, easiest to replace bolts and nuts.

use galvanized or stainless so they dont rust in the future- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

It isn't a 'rust problem'. Carriage bolts in wood that has been
exposed to weather will almost invariablyi strip out the wood. The
wood has less holding power than it takes to turn the nut. BTDT and
got the t-shirt many times.

The 'nutcracker' is about the best and quickest solution.

Harry K

On May 19, 7:58*pm, Red Green wrote:
Smitty Two wrote in newsrestwhich-
:

In article t8mYj.1241$ay2.1029@trndny01,
*Liz Megerle wrote:

I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow
plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage
bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a
socket on the nut. *Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver under
the head parallel to the surface of the wood to engage a flat side of
the square. What do you experts do?
Liz

I'll vote with those who actually know what a carriage bolt is, and
second the suggestion to grind a screwdriver slot in the heads with a
dremel.

I was thinking hole saw :-)





The nut=splitter is not a bad idea, either, if you have access to use
it. Picnic tables are sometimes constructed with counterbores for the
nut, so you'd not have access for a splitter.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Not good as then you are left with a batch of round wood discs still
firmly fastened to the adjoining member. Of course you could then use
a chisel to split the discs...

Harry K

Liz Megerle wrote:

I built a picnic table several years ago. It took a hit from the snow
plow this winter. It's worth repairing, but I can't undo the carriage
bolts. The square part of the bolt head strips the wood when I put a
socket on the nut. Next weekend I'll try pounding a screwdriver under
the head parallel to the surface of the wood to engage a flat side of
the square. What do you experts do?

I'm in the Dremel/anglegrinder camp- cut/grind the nut off & drive out
the bolt.

But if I was really reaching for a good excuse to buy a wire-feed mig
welder [or knew someone with one] I might try tack welding a nut on
top of the carriage bolt. Weld inside the nut - don't overheat.

Jim

Jim,



*carriage bolt* heads don't have anything to grab onto.


Sure they do. You can usually get the vice-grips to grab onto the edge of
the bolt head. And of course, if there is a threaded end sticking out of the
nut you can grab there.

Dave M.

On May 20, 6:20*am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Jim,

*carriage bolt* heads don't have anything to grab onto.

* *Sure they do. You can usually get the vice-grips to grab onto the edge of
the bolt head. And of course, if there is a threaded end sticking out of the
nut you can grab there.

Dave M.

Every carriage bolt in wood I have seen have been set at least flush
if not a bit counteersunk into the wood. There is nothing there to
grab. Vice grips on the exposed thread is a possibility but will
screw up the threads, might allow unscrewing enough to get the
vicegrips onto the head and then force the nut over the screwed up
thread portion.

Harry K

I like this idea, and we've got the welder. Nothing like an excuse to
play with it. Otherwise, it's grinder time. Of course I countersunk the
nuts too.
Thanks everyone!
Liz

Jim Elbrecht wrote:


I'm in the Dremel/anglegrinder camp- cut/grind the nut off & drive out
the bolt.

But if I was really reaching for a good excuse to buy a wire-feed mig
welder [or knew someone with one] I might try tack welding a nut on
top of the carriage bolt. Weld inside the nut - don't overheat.

Jim

Liz Megerle wrote in
news:O6CYj.1291$ay2.967@trndny01:

I like this idea, and we've got the welder. Nothing like an excuse to
play with it. Otherwise, it's grinder time. Of course I countersunk the
nuts too.

then you could use a small cold chisel to cut/split the nut off the bolt.

I also suggest some PB Blaster penetrating oil to help loosen the nut.

--
Jim Yanik
jyanik
at
kua.net

Since the carriage bolt heads are apparently above the surface given the
comment about the screwdriver, the easiest thing to do is to use a
hacksaw (or angle grinder with cutoff wheel) and make a slot in the bolt
head for the screwdriver.

Did that just yesterday while dismantling an old tent trailer. I use a
GIANT Dremel tool (Rotozip) with a 1 1/4" cutoff wheel to cut the slot

replying to Pete C., PaintyLiz wrote:
I doubt that this will reach you, but thank you so much for your answer about
how to remove a carriage Bolt from wood. I am faced with that problem and I
got all but one out. I will go try cutting a slot in the top what a great
idea!!

--
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