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Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
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Removing (lots of) Rusted Bolts
On Wed, 25 Jun 2003 22:11:36 GMT, 'nuther Bob wrote:
I need to remove about 80 rusted 3/8 bolts/nuts to repair a steel fire escape. The unit itself is in good shape but the angle iron and bolts holding the treads to the stringers need replacement. snip If you have a roto-zip, they now make a right angle cut-off attachment with disks that are about 3-3.5" dia. I use it to zip through copper pipe in a fraction of the time it takes to use a tubing cutter, and without leaving a burr. It's like a dremel on steroids; much more power, and the disks are thicker so they don't break and last longer. The nut splitter would be slow going...unless you drive it with an impact wrench. I'll bet that would be fastest if you have clearance and have an air impact wrench. But if you have the clearance to swing a 2 or 3 lb sledge, one smack on a sharp cold chisel would likely split the nut. Use the kind of chisel with a hand shield, for obvious reasons. HTH, Paul |
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Removing (lots of) Rusted Bolts
arte says rusted bolts are a part o f too much crack
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Removing (lots of) Rusted Bolts
'nuther Bob writes:
Other ideas ? Really big bolt cutters, if they can reach. Hydraulic nut splitter, if you must have a power tool. |
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Removing (lots of) Rusted Bolts
http://unitedabrasives.com/current/PDF/CuttingR.pdf
You might also consider leaving the originals and drilling and installing fresh ones next to them. On Wed, 25 Jun 2003 22:57:45 GMT, "Dan G" wrote: You might try weld cutting disks on a 4 " grinder. Are they thin ? I have a 4" grinder. Bob -- Keep the whole world singing. . . Dan G (remove the 7) |
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