MPD,

Thanks for that info. Unlike most, you got the gist of my question. I
know its simple to replace the part, but I wanted to try to repair it
first...as you repaired yours, successfully.

I already have the brake cleaner too!

Brian


On May 16, 10:52 pm, "
wrote:
On May 16, 8:03 pm, usethisone2007 wrote:



I tested it with a circuit tester and it was getting power, but the
burner element (pretty new) won't get warm. I noticed when I looked
closely at the left side of the ceramic socket, the metallic parts
that 'grip' the lead for the burner element seemed to be spread extra
wide..meaning they wouldn't grip the lead very well. I also noticed
the burner's lead that fits into that side of the ceramic socket was
sort of fried looking,

I know the part isn't called a socket and is some sort of 'box' but
I'm wondering how much of it would have to be replaced...or even
better, that I could repair it.

This might be replaced very soon so I don't want to spend anything on
it that I don't have to. I have the model number but I can't find it
now. None of the on line web pages seem to have its model number.

Thanks

Brian

I'm not an appliance specialist, appliance collector, or
salesman. Just a DIY type. My 1970-ish sears/kenmore
had burner/element issues.
What I did (after unplugging it, and ditching my cig) was: hose
down the sockets with brake parts cleaner, wait 5 mins, a little
more cleaner, brush gently with old tooth brush, then rinse with
some more spray. 40 years worth of crud came out of those
sockets. The burners that occasionally needed a wiggle to
heat up haven't had an issue since.
I wouldn't ignore bad wires or obviously damaged parts in there,
but its a stove.. it makes sense that theres some charred crap
down there from dear departed auntie emma's crap-apple pie.
So clean it up first.
Be warned. brakeparts cleaner evaporates away in a minute, but
its really flammable, and generally nasty **** until it evaporates.
Theres your first $5 spent. Clean up the sockets first.

Last note: I still have that '70 range 'cause it runs perfectly, has
and over-and-under oven (which you just cant get new) and was
built to last, not built with a predetermined failure rate. I'm sure
there wont be many 30 year old stoves hanging around 30 years
from now. Just 5 year olds and 60+ year olds.

MPD

brian wrote:
MPD,

Thanks for that info. Unlike most, you got the gist of my question. I
know its simple to replace the part, but I wanted to try to repair it
first...as you repaired yours, successfully.

I already have the brake cleaner too!

Brian


On May 16, 10:52 pm, "
wrote:

On May 16, 8:03 pm, usethisone2007 wrote:




I tested it with a circuit tester and it was getting power, but the
burner element (pretty new) won't get warm. I noticed when I looked
closely at the left side of the ceramic socket, the metallic parts
that 'grip' the lead for the burner element seemed to be spread extra
wide..meaning they wouldn't grip the lead very well. I also noticed
the burner's lead that fits into that side of the ceramic socket was
sort of fried looking,

I know the part isn't called a socket and is some sort of 'box' but
I'm wondering how much of it would have to be replaced...or even
better, that I could repair it.

This might be replaced very soon so I don't want to spend anything on
it that I don't have to. I have the model number but I can't find it
now. None of the on line web pages seem to have its model number.

Thanks

Brian

I'm not an appliance specialist, appliance collector, or
salesman. Just a DIY type. My 1970-ish sears/kenmore
had burner/element issues.
What I did (after unplugging it, and ditching my cig) was: hose
down the sockets with brake parts cleaner, wait 5 mins, a little
more cleaner, brush gently with old tooth brush, then rinse with
some more spray. 40 years worth of crud came out of those
sockets. The burners that occasionally needed a wiggle to
heat up haven't had an issue since.
I wouldn't ignore bad wires or obviously damaged parts in there,
but its a stove.. it makes sense that theres some charred crap
down there from dear departed auntie emma's crap-apple pie.
So clean it up first.
Be warned. brakeparts cleaner evaporates away in a minute, but
its really flammable, and generally nasty **** until it evaporates.
Theres your first $5 spent. Clean up the sockets first.

Last note: I still have that '70 range 'cause it runs perfectly, has
and over-and-under oven (which you just cant get new) and was
built to last, not built with a predetermined failure rate. I'm sure
there wont be many 30 year old stoves hanging around 30 years
from now. Just 5 year olds and 60+ year olds.

MPD


Hi,
Cleaning won't do much to a worn out metal parts(contacts). It lost
springy tension and litterally worn out. Pretty soon it'll need
replacement. So do it now instead of playing with it wasting your time.

"brian" wrote in message
...
MPD,

Thanks for that info. Unlike most, you got the gist of my question. I
know its simple to replace the part, but I wanted to try to repair it
first...as you repaired yours, successfully.

I already have the brake cleaner too!

Brian


On May 16, 10:52 pm, "
I'm not an appliance specialist, appliance collector, or
salesman. Just a DIY type. My 1970-ish sears/kenmore
had burner/element issues.
What I did (after unplugging it, and ditching my cig) was: hose
down the sockets with brake parts cleaner, wait 5 mins, a little
more cleaner, brush gently with old tooth brush, then rinse with
some more spray. 40 years worth of crud came out of those
sockets. The burners that occasionally needed a wiggle to
heat up haven't had an issue since.
I wouldn't ignore bad wires or obviously damaged parts in there,
but its a stove.. it makes sense that theres some charred crap
down there from dear departed auntie emma's crap-apple pie.
So clean it up first.
Be warned. brakeparts cleaner evaporates away in a minute, but
its really flammable, and generally nasty **** until it evaporates.
Theres your first $5 spent. Clean up the sockets first.

Last note: I still have that '70 range 'cause it runs perfectly, has
and over-and-under oven (which you just cant get new) and was
built to last, not built with a predetermined failure rate. I'm sure
there wont be many 30 year old stoves hanging around 30 years
from now. Just 5 year olds and 60+ year olds.

MPD
Yea, but I played around with mine, but it was "toast" and had to end up
replacing it.
Yes, like others have said, try to dig up a good used one.
Tony

On May 18, 2:32 pm, "Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO
wrote:
"brian" wrote in message

...

MPD,

Thanks for that info. Unlike most, you got the gist of my question. I
know its simple to replace the part, but I wanted to try to repair it
first...as you repaired yours, successfully.

I already have the brake cleaner too!

Brian

On May 16, 10:52 pm, "
I'm not an appliance specialist, appliance collector, or
salesman. Just a DIY type. My 1970-ish sears/kenmore
had burner/element issues.
What I did (after unplugging it, and ditching my cig) was: hose
down the sockets with brake parts cleaner, wait 5 mins, a little
more cleaner, brush gently with old tooth brush, then rinse with
some more spray. 40 years worth of crud came out of those
sockets. The burners that occasionally needed a wiggle to
heat up haven't had an issue since.
I wouldn't ignore bad wires or obviously damaged parts in there,
but its a stove.. it makes sense that theres some charred crap
down there from dear departed auntie emma's crap-apple pie.
So clean it up first.
Be warned. brakeparts cleaner evaporates away in a minute, but
its really flammable, and generally nasty **** until it evaporates.
Theres your first $5 spent. Clean up the sockets first.

Last note: I still have that '70 range 'cause it runs perfectly, has
and over-and-under oven (which you just cant get new) and was
built to last, not built with a predetermined failure rate. I'm sure
there wont be many 30 year old stoves hanging around 30 years
from now. Just 5 year olds and 60+ year olds.

MPD

Yea, but I played around with mine, but it was "toast" and had to end up
replacing it.
Yes, like others have said, try to dig up a good used one.
Tony

I ended up removing and cleaning off the receptacle. It wasn't really
all that cruddy. I managed to pry the 'loose' side of the clamp into a
position where it again applied pressure to the heating element's lead
by using a small allen wrench through the screw hole in the back of
the socket. Seems to work fine for now. I recall forcing the lead into
the socket probably a little harder than I should have with an older
element which I had since replaced. That probably did the damage. I
think it will last until the range gets replaced later this year.

I checked another burner element which wasn't working either. Too much
of the 'springy clip part' had been broken off on that one so I
replaced the entire receptacle for it. Lowes had a GE replacement for
$10.

Essentially, it was the jiggling around and inserting and removing of
the bad element which did the damage. You can't be too rough with
those older sockets.

"usethisone2007" wrote in message
...
On May 18, 2:32 pm, "Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO
wrote:
"brian" wrote in message

...

MPD,

Thanks for that info. Unlike most, you got the gist of my question. I
know its simple to replace the part, but I wanted to try to repair it
first...as you repaired yours, successfully.

I already have the brake cleaner too!

Brian

On May 16, 10:52 pm, "
I'm not an appliance specialist, appliance collector, or
salesman. Just a DIY type. My 1970-ish sears/kenmore
had burner/element issues.
What I did (after unplugging it, and ditching my cig) was: hose
down the sockets with brake parts cleaner, wait 5 mins, a little
more cleaner, brush gently with old tooth brush, then rinse with
some more spray. 40 years worth of crud came out of those
sockets. The burners that occasionally needed a wiggle to
heat up haven't had an issue since.
I wouldn't ignore bad wires or obviously damaged parts in there,
but its a stove.. it makes sense that theres some charred crap
down there from dear departed auntie emma's crap-apple pie.
So clean it up first.
Be warned. brakeparts cleaner evaporates away in a minute, but
its really flammable, and generally nasty **** until it evaporates.
Theres your first $5 spent. Clean up the sockets first.

Last note: I still have that '70 range 'cause it runs perfectly, has
and over-and-under oven (which you just cant get new) and was
built to last, not built with a predetermined failure rate. I'm sure
there wont be many 30 year old stoves hanging around 30 years
from now. Just 5 year olds and 60+ year olds.

MPD

Yea, but I played around with mine, but it was "toast" and had to end up
replacing it.
Yes, like others have said, try to dig up a good used one.
Tony

I ended up removing and cleaning off the receptacle. It wasn't really
all that cruddy. I managed to pry the 'loose' side of the clamp into a
position where it again applied pressure to the heating element's lead
by using a small allen wrench through the screw hole in the back of
the socket. Seems to work fine for now. I recall forcing the lead into
the socket probably a little harder than I should have with an older
element which I had since replaced. That probably did the damage. I
think it will last until the range gets replaced later this year.

I checked another burner element which wasn't working either. Too much
of the 'springy clip part' had been broken off on that one so I
replaced the entire receptacle for it. Lowes had a GE replacement for
$10.

Essentially, it was the jiggling around and inserting and removing of
the bad element which did the damage. You can't be too rough with
those older sockets.

Good deal. glad you got it going.
Yea,I have read where you should not remove the element too often for
cleaning the top.
In my case, yes the spring part of the receptacle just fell apart, when I
tried to fix it.
Tony

"usethisone2007" wrote in message
...
Lowes had a GE replacement for
$10.00
SNIP

Good to know, that was cheaper than my local appliance store, never thought
of lowes for that item.
Tony

Anthony Diodati wrote:
"usethisone2007" wrote in message
...

On May 18, 2:32 pm, "Anthony Diodati" mrbreezeet1NO
wrote:

"brian" wrote in message

...


MPD,

Thanks for that info. Unlike most, you got the gist of my question. I
know its simple to replace the part, but I wanted to try to repair it
first...as you repaired yours, successfully.

I already have the brake cleaner too!

Brian

On May 16, 10:52 pm, "

I'm not an appliance specialist, appliance collector, or
salesman. Just a DIY type. My 1970-ish sears/kenmore
had burner/element issues.
What I did (after unplugging it, and ditching my cig) was: hose
down the sockets with brake parts cleaner, wait 5 mins, a little
more cleaner, brush gently with old tooth brush, then rinse with
some more spray. 40 years worth of crud came out of those
sockets. The burners that occasionally needed a wiggle to
heat up haven't had an issue since.
I wouldn't ignore bad wires or obviously damaged parts in there,
but its a stove.. it makes sense that theres some charred crap
down there from dear departed auntie emma's crap-apple pie.
So clean it up first.
Be warned. brakeparts cleaner evaporates away in a minute, but
its really flammable, and generally nasty **** until it evaporates.
Theres your first $5 spent. Clean up the sockets first.

Last note: I still have that '70 range 'cause it runs perfectly, has
and over-and-under oven (which you just cant get new) and was
built to last, not built with a predetermined failure rate. I'm sure
there wont be many 30 year old stoves hanging around 30 years
from now. Just 5 year olds and 60+ year olds.

MPD

Yea, but I played around with mine, but it was "toast" and had to end up
replacing it.
Yes, like others have said, try to dig up a good used one.
Tony

I ended up removing and cleaning off the receptacle. It wasn't really
all that cruddy. I managed to pry the 'loose' side of the clamp into a
position where it again applied pressure to the heating element's lead
by using a small allen wrench through the screw hole in the back of
the socket. Seems to work fine for now. I recall forcing the lead into
the socket probably a little harder than I should have with an older
element which I had since replaced. That probably did the damage. I
think it will last until the range gets replaced later this year.

I checked another burner element which wasn't working either. Too much
of the 'springy clip part' had been broken off on that one so I
replaced the entire receptacle for it. Lowes had a GE replacement for
$10.

Essentially, it was the jiggling around and inserting and removing of
the bad element which did the damage. You can't be too rough with
those older sockets.


Good deal. glad you got it going.
Yea,I have read where you should not remove the element too often for
cleaning the top.
In my case, yes the spring part of the receptacle just fell apart, when I
tried to fix it.
Tony


Hmmm.
Reversing metal fatigue is impossible. So for all that work, soon it'll
act up again. Needed part is not expensive at HD.