Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
electric burner won't work. 35 y/o GE range, ceramic 'socket'
wrote in message ... On May 16, 8:03 pm, usethisone2007 wrote: I tested it with a circuit tester and it was getting power, but the burner element (pretty new) won't get warm. I noticed when I looked closely at the left side of the ceramic socket, the metallic parts that 'grip' the lead for the burner element seemed to be spread extra wide..meaning they wouldn't grip the lead very well. I also noticed the burner's lead that fits into that side of the ceramic socket was sort of fried looking, I know the part isn't called a socket and is some sort of 'box' but I'm wondering how much of it would have to be replaced...or even better, that I could repair it. This might be replaced very soon so I don't want to spend anything on it that I don't have to. I have the model number but I can't find it now. None of the on line web pages seem to have its model number. Thanks Brian I'm not an appliance specialist, appliance collector, or salesman. Just a DIY type. My 1970-ish sears/kenmore had burner/element issues. What I did (after unplugging it, and ditching my cig) was: hose down the sockets with brake parts cleaner, wait 5 mins, a little more cleaner, brush gently with old tooth brush, then rinse with some more spray. 40 years worth of crud came out of those sockets. The burners that occasionally needed a wiggle to heat up haven't had an issue since. I wouldn't ignore bad wires or obviously damaged parts in there, but its a stove.. it makes sense that theres some charred crap down there from dear departed auntie emma's crap-apple pie. So clean it up first. Be warned. brakeparts cleaner evaporates away in a minute, but its really flammable, and generally nasty **** until it evaporates. Theres your first $5 spent. Clean up the sockets first. Last note: I still have that '70 range 'cause it runs perfectly, has and over-and-under oven (which you just cant get new) and was built to last, not built with a predetermined failure rate. I'm sure there wont be many 30 year old stoves hanging around 30 years from now. Just 5 year olds and 60+ year olds. MPD It's called a burner or element "receptacle". My local appliance store stocks them, He needed a make/model # ,but I decribed it to him, and he "went right to it". It cost's about $18.00. In my case it was cheaper to get it local. They also sell on line a universal one, IIRC it was about $8.00 plus shipping. Mine was ceramic, with a small nut/bolt running through it. Shut the breaker, and one sheet metal screw hold's it to the stove top. Then there are two wires screwed to it. As far as the "fried element contact, they are coated, and they want you to replace it also if it's corroded, but you may be able to clean it up a little with some steel wool . http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Ap...AP2021501.aspx http://www.appliancepartspros.com/Ap...AP2591744.aspx Tony |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
gas range burner grate | Home Repair | |||
Repair Whirlpool Ceramic Top Electric Range | Home Repair | |||
Coil and Socket for Electric Range | Home Ownership | |||
Electric ceramic range | Home Repair | |||
Need Burner for Admiral Electric Range | Home Repair |