Hi,

I have an estimate to get my stair railing replaced. I asked for
something simple in design: square balusters and standard curved hand
rail all oak.

This is for a split level ranch entry so total around 12 feet of
railing with balusters. This is the upstairs portion and the small
middle section in between the two stair cases. The portion going
downstairs has no balusters, just the rail (another 6ft).

What is reasonable range in price for parts and labor?

Thanks

On Jan 22, 6:16*am, wrote:
Hi,

I have an estimate to get my stair railing replaced. I asked for
something simple in design: square balusters and standard curved hand
rail all oak.

This is for a split level ranch entry so total around 12 feet of
railing with balusters. This is the upstairs portion and the small
middle section in between the two stair cases. The portion going
downstairs has no balusters, just the rail (another 6ft).

What is reasonable range in price for parts and labor?

Thanks

It will depend on how much of it can be bought 'off the shelf' and how
much will have to special made, what the local trades charge, etc.

Asking here is pointless. Get three estimates from your local area
and go with whatever looks best to you.

Harry K

On Jan 22, 2:41 pm, jJim McLaughlin
wrote:
wrote:

What is reasonable range in price for parts and labor?

Thanks

Inside New York City or San Francisco?

Missoula, Montana?

Its not possible to give you any estimate without a hint of a location
because
materials prices and labor costs are different everywhere,

Even with a hint as to location, any estimate you get on his
newsgroup will be a wild assed guess.

Hey now! They might be wild assed guesses, but they're _educated_
wild assed guess.

R

RicodJour wrote:

SNIP HAPPENS

Hey now! They might be wild assed guesses, but they're _educated_
wild assed guess.

R

A little education is a dangerous thing.

wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have an estimate to get my stair railing replaced. I asked for
something simple in design: square balusters and standard curved hand
rail all oak.

This is for a split level ranch entry so total around 12 feet of
railing with balusters. This is the upstairs portion and the small
middle section in between the two stair cases. The portion going
downstairs has no balusters, just the rail (another 6ft).

What is reasonable range in price for parts and labor?

Thanks

Between $300 and $4500. Anything over $4500 is price gouging.

I would hesitate to answer unless I knew what material and how far
this thing is going - 3 risers or 20? with a wrap around porch?

Cable systems, glass, steel? Will this need to pass the 4" ball
rule?

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
.. .

wrote in message
...
Hi,

I have an estimate to get my stair railing replaced. I asked
for
something simple in design: square balusters and standard
curved hand
rail all oak.

This is for a split level ranch entry so total around 12 feet
of
railing with balusters. This is the upstairs portion and the
small
middle section in between the two stair cases. The portion
going
downstairs has no balusters, just the rail (another 6ft).

What is reasonable range in price for parts and labor?

Thanks

Between $300 and $4500. Anything over $4500 is price gouging.

Thanks for the responses. I will try to add more information to
address the comments brought up.

-This is in the Southern NH area.
-Everything is going to be Oak and are stock items, nothing custom.
-I am having difficulty getting estimates. Only one guy called me back
which is why I am on here asked for some neutral opinions.

To recap my original description:
-Standard split entry ranch style house form the late 70's
-Front door entry you can go upstairs or downstairs (approx 7 steps up
on left side and 7 down on right)
-In the middle there is a rail that will need balusters and a post (I
believe this is called a newel?) at the bottom.
-On the left there is a protective rail to keep people in the living
room from falling down onto the stairs. I estimate that run of railing
to be 10 feet with balusters that connect to the same wall as the
entrance. At the other end of the run would be a post (newel). In
addition to the wall the flooring which this would attach to is
hardwood oak.
-On the right there will be a railing going down stairs with no
balusters.

Hopefully this paints a more clear picture.
I appreciate your feedback.

Also to reiterate.. This is only for the railing, balusters and
posts.. I am keeping the oak stair treads

Thanks,

On Wed, 23 Jan 2008 12:09:04 -0800 (PST),
wrote:


Thanks for the responses. I will try to add more information to
address the comments brought up.

-This is in the Southern NH area.
-Everything is going to be Oak and are stock items, nothing custom.
-I am having difficulty getting estimates. Only one guy called me back
which is why I am on here asked for some neutral opinions.

To recap my original description:
-Standard split entry ranch style house form the late 70's
-Front door entry you can go upstairs or downstairs (approx 7 steps up
on left side and 7 down on right)
-In the middle there is a rail that will need balusters and a post (I
believe this is called a newel?) at the bottom.
-On the left there is a protective rail to keep people in the living
room from falling down onto the stairs. I estimate that run of railing
to be 10 feet with balusters that connect to the same wall as the
entrance. At the other end of the run would be a post (newel). In
addition to the wall the flooring which this would attach to is
hardwood oak.
-On the right there will be a railing going down stairs with no
balusters.

Hopefully this paints a more clear picture.
I appreciate your feedback.

Monadnock region?

This is basically what my house is, withut the center piece (we have a
stub wall capped with an oak board and trim).

One thing that is an issue iw tha the part to keep people in the
Living Room from falling into the stairwell needs to be strong enough
to withstand some force. This can be an issue if the builder doesn't
know how to properly build or anchor it.

If Monadnock, let me know, I may be able to recommend someone.

On Jan 23, 7:15*am, "DanG" wrote:
*Will this need to pass the 4" ball
rule?

Why wouldnt it?
Mark