Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
than rip it out?

"jim" wrote in message
...
Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
than rip it out?

?!?!?!

You'll always have some joints that aren't depressed. You just mud and tape
then as usual. It just means you'll have to mud a lot wider to make the
joint less visible.

On Jan 14, 5:55*pm, jim wrote:
Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
than rip it out?

Yes, there is. It's messy, but effective. Simply use a small angle
grinder and cut your own groove. Some screws/nails may have to be set
in different locations, obviously. Downside is the dust, so a good
shop vac is essential, and curtaining off the area. But you would do
some of that anyway for the joint work. It helps a ton to use a
Magnasand with the shop vac for dust control, and the screen sander
that comes with it makes the job really fly. Put a squirt of Pam non-
stick spray in the Magnasand trap to keep the foaming under control.
For a small room like yours the joint prep shouldn't take over 45
minutes or so. The final mud and sand will then be pretty quick
because you won't have to feather out a foot or so on each side.
The alternative is to just slop on the mud, feather out a bunch, sand,
mud, sand, etc. Or total rip out, as you noted. Your call, and good
luck.

Joe

I agree. There's nothing wrong with the way it was put up. Just mud a
little wider. No big deal.

Calab wrote:
"jim" wrote in message
...
Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
than rip it out?

?!?!?!

You'll always have some joints that aren't depressed. You just mud and tape
then as usual. It just means you'll have to mud a lot wider to make the
joint less visible.

jim wrote:
Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
than rip it out?


????? Taper to butt? Butt to butt? Impossible to not have any taper
to taper joints unless they were cut off completely. Not likely. You
may have a gap between tapers and that is okay if it is not too big.
Actually that gives you a stronger joint with a small (1/8") gap between
boards.

Butt to butt joints are also fairly easy. Put a small strip of mud on
each side of the joint first. After that dries, then do the joint and
level it out. SOP.

Mike D.

Joe wrote:
On Jan 14, 5:55 pm, jim wrote:
Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
than rip it out?

Yes, there is. It's messy, but effective. Simply use a small angle
grinder and cut your own groove. Some screws/nails may have to be set
in different locations, obviously. Downside is the dust, so a good
shop vac is essential, and curtaining off the area. But you would do
some of that anyway for the joint work. It helps a ton to use a
Magnasand with the shop vac for dust control, and the screen sander
that comes with it makes the job really fly. Put a squirt of Pam non-
stick spray in the Magnasand trap to keep the foaming under control.
For a small room like yours the joint prep shouldn't take over 45
minutes or so. The final mud and sand will then be pretty quick
because you won't have to feather out a foot or so on each side.
The alternative is to just slop on the mud, feather out a bunch, sand,
mud, sand, etc. Or total rip out, as you noted. Your call, and good
luck.

Joe
I agree there is nothing wrong with just
taping it and widening the mud a bit.
However, I have, on occasion, done the
following: Using a utility knive (box
cutter type) I cut the surface paper at
an angle away from the joint on both
piece of drywall. Then, the paper can
be pealed off. This give a depression
for the new tape and mud. Not as messy
as grinding!

On Jan 14, 4:26*pm, Joe wrote:
On Jan 14, 5:55*pm, jim wrote:

Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
than rip it out?

Yes, there is. It's messy, but effective. Simply use a small angle
grinder and cut your own groove. Some screws/nails may have to be set
in different locations, obviously. Downside is the dust, so a good
shop vac is essential, and curtaining off the area. But you would do
some of that anyway for the joint work. It helps a ton to use a
Magnasand with the shop vac for dust control, and the screen sander
that comes with it makes the job really fly. Put a squirt of Pam non-
stick spray in the Magnasand trap to keep the foaming under control.
For a small room like yours the joint prep shouldn't take over 45
minutes or so. The final mud and sand will then be pretty quick
because you won't have to feather out a foot or so on each side.
The alternative is to just slop on the mud, feather out a bunch, sand,
mud, sand, etc. Or total rip out, as you noted. Your call, and good
luck.

Joe

Lot of trouble, one hell of a mess. Much simpler to just tape it.
Done right, and it should only take a few joints to learn, it won't
show anyhow.

Harry K

if your tape is not back over the paper, then you'd might just as well not
tape it.

s

"Art Todesco" wrote in message
. net...
Joe wrote:
On Jan 14, 5:55 pm, jim wrote:
Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
than rip it out?

Yes, there is. It's messy, but effective. Simply use a small angle
grinder and cut your own groove. Some screws/nails may have to be set
in different locations, obviously. Downside is the dust, so a good
shop vac is essential, and curtaining off the area. But you would do
some of that anyway for the joint work. It helps a ton to use a
Magnasand with the shop vac for dust control, and the screen sander
that comes with it makes the job really fly. Put a squirt of Pam non-
stick spray in the Magnasand trap to keep the foaming under control.
For a small room like yours the joint prep shouldn't take over 45
minutes or so. The final mud and sand will then be pretty quick
because you won't have to feather out a foot or so on each side.
The alternative is to just slop on the mud, feather out a bunch, sand,
mud, sand, etc. Or total rip out, as you noted. Your call, and good
luck.

Joe
I agree there is nothing wrong with just taping it and widening the mud a
bit.
However, I have, on occasion, done the following: Using a utility knive
(box
cutter type) I cut the surface paper at an angle away from the joint on
both
piece of drywall. Then, the paper can be pealed off. This give a
depression
for the new tape and mud. Not as messy as grinding!

Where I have a "cut" edge rather than a tapered side edge with the paper
wrapped around, I will take a carton knife and cut a 45 degree angle about
1/8 to 1/4 inch wide. This reduces the burr that often results from the
factory cut edge or from cutting and sawing drywall. This makes a smoother
job of taping and mudding on non-tapered edges.

"jim" wrote in message
...
Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
than rip it out?

On Jan 15, 7:50*am, "EXT" wrote:
Where I have a "cut" edge rather than a tapered side edge with the paper
wrapped around, I will take a carton knife and cut a 45 degree angle about
1/8 to 1/4 inch wide. This reduces the burr that often results from the
factory cut edge or from cutting and sawing drywall. This makes a smoother
job of taping and mudding on non-tapered edges.

"jim" wrote in message

...



Same here.

Harry K

On Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:55:36 -0800 (PST), jim
wrote:

Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
than rip it out?

Yep
Tear down the house and build a new one !!!!

EXT wrote:
Where I have a "cut" edge rather than a tapered side edge with the paper
wrapped around, I will take a carton knife and cut a 45 degree angle about
1/8 to 1/4 inch wide. This reduces the burr that often results from the
factory cut edge or from cutting and sawing drywall. This makes a smoother
job of taping and mudding on non-tapered edges.

If you make the cut on the white side instead of the brown side you get
much cleaner cuts. The pros don't really care about this. We never had
any complaints from any finishers. BTW, why are you suing a saw to cut
the ends of the drywall? Score and break works fine. Then use a
sureform to clean up the end. Makes for very tight joints IF the
ceilings are straight. Then again, a small gap makes for a stronger
joint when the mud is pressed into the small gap.

Mike D.


"jim" wrote in message
...
Son - in - law (ex to be) decided to do this old guy a favor and
drywall the cottage mud room. Left the plastering / mud to be. Only
problem is that in several joins he did NOT butt the tapered edges
together. Thus there is no "groove" in which to fill with mud and
feather out for the smooth finish. Any way to remediate this other
than rip it out?