Does anyone have any experience flashing a window using metal
(galvanized) flashing? I am replacing aluminum windows with some
nice Andersen wood windows on a one story brick veneer siding and
having trouble deciding the best way to flash the window. I have
already done one window and used flashing tape on the sill, galvanized
step flashing on the sides and one piece galvanized metal flashing on
the top. The problem was the flashing tape I used on the sill was
not easy to get between the brick and sheething, metal flashing seems
like the perfect fit in this situation but I don't know the details
like how do you make it water tight at the sill corners (don't really
want to use caulk) and would the galvanized flashing need to be
painted (I did not think it would but doing some google searching
seems to suggest it)? Keep in mind I am having to cut off the window
flange on the windows since I can't remove the brick and I am not
using brick mold.

To be honest I could probably just caulk between the window and brick
and not worry about using flashing (that is what one of the installers
suggested, and why I am doing this myself :-) but I am very paticular
and want to make sure that I flash it the best that I can before I
install the window. I have searched for months on the net and can't
seem to find anything about using metal flashing on windows, just the
roof. Wasn't metal flashing standard before they developed flashing
tape?

Thanks for any help..

On Jan 12, 10:24*am, wrote:
Does anyone have any experience flashing a window using metal
(galvanized) flashing? * I am replacing aluminum windows with some
nice Andersen *wood windows on a one story brick veneer siding and
having trouble deciding the best way to flash the window. *I have
already done one window and used flashing tape on the sill, galvanized
step flashing on the sides and one piece galvanized metal flashing on
the top. * The problem was the flashing tape I used on the sill was
not easy to get between the brick and sheething, metal flashing seems
like the perfect fit in this situation but I don't know the details
like how do you make it water tight at the sill corners (don't really
want to use caulk) and would the galvanized flashing need to be
painted (I did not think it would but doing some google searching
seems to suggest it)? *Keep in mind I am having to cut off the window
flange on the windows since I can't remove the brick and I am not
using brick mold.

To be honest I could probably just caulk between the window and brick
and not worry about using flashing (that is what one of the installers
suggested, and why I am doing this myself :-) but I am very paticular
and want to make sure that I flash it the best that I can before I
install the window. *I have searched for months on the net and can't
seem to find anything about using metal flashing on windows, just the
roof. * Wasn't metal flashing standard before they developed flashing
tape?

Thanks for any help..

Check the 'This Old House' archives. IIRC, there are some articles on
window installation that might be pertinent. In our area aluminum
flashing seems to be the most common product and in your case might be
easier to install than a galvanized flashing. IMO, anything like tape
or flashing that directs water away from potential trouble spots is a
good thing HTH

Joe.

On Jan 12, 11:12*am, Joe wrote:
On Jan 12, 10:24*am, wrote:





Does anyone have any experience flashing a window using metal
(galvanized) flashing? * I am replacing aluminum windows with some
nice Andersen *wood windows on a one story brick veneer siding and
having trouble deciding the best way to flash the window. *I have
already done one window and used flashing tape on the sill, galvanized
step flashing on the sides and one piece galvanized metal flashing on
the top. * The problem was the flashing tape I used on the sill was
not easy to get between the brick and sheething, metal flashing seems
like the perfect fit in this situation but I don't know the details
like how do you make it water tight at the sill corners (don't really
want to use caulk) and would the galvanized flashing need to be
painted (I did not think it would but doing some google searching
seems to suggest it)? *Keep in mind I am having to cut off the window
flange on the windows since I can't remove the brick and I am not
using brick mold.

To be honest I could probably just caulk between the window and brick
and not worry about using flashing (that is what one of the installers
suggested, and why I am doing this myself :-) but I am very paticular
and want to make sure that I flash it the best that I can before I
install the window. *I have searched for months on the net and can't
seem to find anything about using metal flashing on windows, just the
roof. * Wasn't metal flashing standard before they developed flashing
tape?

Thanks for any help..

Check the 'This Old House' archives. IIRC, there are some articles on
window installation that might be pertinent. In our area aluminum
flashing seems to be the most common product and in your case might be
easier to install than a galvanized flashing. IMO, anything like tape
or flashing that directs water away from potential trouble spots is a
good thing HTH

Joe.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


Thanks. I am pretty sure I have checked there but will look again.