Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Home Repair (alt.home.repair) For all homeowners and DIYers with many experienced tradesmen. Solve your toughest home fix-it problems. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Putting up cherry wainscoting
I have some 1/2" thick cherry tongue and groove planks that are all
cut to 36" length and various widths. I want to install them in the kitchen nook area of my home as wainscoting (floor up to 36" high). I currently have drywall (floor to ceiling) with cherry baseboard and chair rail. My plan is to cut out 36" high of drywall, install 2x4 runners horizontally between the existing studs near 6" and 30" height to give me something to nail the T&G cherry to. Then reinstall the chair rail and baseboard. How would you install the 2x4 runners? I was thinking flat faced outward, toe nailed. Or I could stagger them a bit and come in with a nail straight through the stud and into the end. I also planned to seal the area by shoving foam or insulation up between the drywall to prevent air leakage since the T&G won't be air tight and we run the A/C quite a bit being in Florida. There is a fire break (2x4) running horizontally about 48" high. Do I even need a seal with the firebreak there? |
#2
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Putting up cherry wainscoting
On Sep 5, 12:29 pm, wrote:
I have some 1/2" thick cherry tongue and groove planks that are all cut to 36" length and various widths. I want to install them in the kitchen nook area of my home as wainscoting (floor up to 36" high). I currently have drywall (floor to ceiling) with cherry baseboard and chair rail. My plan is to cut out 36" high of drywall, install 2x4 runners horizontally between the existing studs near 6" and 30" height to give me something to nail the T&G cherry to. Then reinstall the chair rail and baseboard. How would you install the 2x4 runners? I was thinking flat faced outward, toe nailed. Or I could stagger them a bit and come in with a nail straight through the stud and into the end. I also planned to seal the area by shoving foam or insulation up between the drywall to prevent air leakage since the T&G won't be air tight and we run the A/C quite a bit being in Florida. There is a fire break (2x4) running horizontally about 48" high. Do I even need a seal with the firebreak there? If your aim is to have the T&G come flush with the drywall and have the chairrail and baseboard capping the seems, this sounds right. With the staggared center approach you will onle be able to get the nails on one side of each board so you will have to toe nail other side at least once anyway to prevent the board from rotating on the nail axis. Flat would give you a wider nailer for the T&G in case you encounter a knot you can move the nail. Insulation is already in the exterior wall, but add more if you want to, cant hurt. |
#3
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Putting up cherry wainscoting
|
#4
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Putting up cherry wainscoting
On Sep 5, 3:35 pm, RickH wrote:
On Sep 5, 12:29 pm, wrote: I have some 1/2" thick cherry tongue and groove planks that are all cut to 36" length and various widths. I want to install them in the kitchen nook area of my home as wainscoting (floor up to 36" high). I currently have drywall (floor to ceiling) with cherry baseboard and chair rail. My plan is to cut out 36" high of drywall, install 2x4 runners horizontally between the existing studs near 6" and 30" height to give me something to nail the T&G cherry to. Then reinstall the chair rail and baseboard. How would you install the 2x4 runners? I was thinking flat faced outward, toe nailed. Or I could stagger them a bit and come in with a nail straight through the stud and into the end. I also planned to seal the area by shoving foam or insulation up between the drywall to prevent air leakage since the T&G won't be air tight and we run the A/C quite a bit being in Florida. There is a fire break (2x4) running horizontally about 48" high. Do I even need a seal with the firebreak there? If your aim is to have the T&G come flush with the drywall and have the chairrail and baseboard capping the seems, this sounds right. With the staggared center approach you will onle be able to get the nails on one side of each board so you will have to toe nail other side at least once anyway to prevent the board from rotating on the nail axis. Flat would give you a wider nailer for the T&G in case you encounter a knot you can move the nail. Insulation is already in the exterior wall, but add more if you want to, cant hurt.- Hide quoted text - - Show quoted text - To clarify, this is an interior wall with no insulation. |
#6
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Putting up cherry wainscoting
dpb wrote:
.... Face out for the nailers is fine but I'd suggest three instead of just two. Your idea of staggering to nail through the studs is fine -- 16d will work well for that. I don't see Rick's problem of why would need to toenail one end except for the ends/corners that you don't have access to both sides of the stud from--simply offset them enough to have enough to nail into -- even the full width won't hurt anything. .... Actually, there's a simple trick to doing this without the stagger/offset-- you can leave them inline and still nail through the stud into the end--just angle the nail from the top and bottom of the one and you'll still catch the other with plenty of bite w/ a 16... -- |
#7
|
|||
|
|||
Is this wood or MDF? Take a look at this wainscoting site for ideas.
|
#8
Posted to alt.home.repair
|
|||
|
|||
Putting up cherry wainscoting
wrote: I have some 1/2" thick cherry tongue and groove planks that are all cut to 36" length and various widths. I want to install them in the kitchen nook area of my home as wainscoting (floor up to 36" high). I currently have drywall (floor to ceiling) with cherry baseboard and chair rail. My plan is to cut out 36" high of drywall, install 2x4 runners horizontally between the existing studs near 6" and 30" height to give me something to nail the T&G cherry to. Then reinstall the chair rail and baseboard. How would you install the 2x4 runners? I was thinking flat faced outward, toe nailed. Or I could stagger them a bit and come in with a nail straight through the stud and into the end. I also planned to seal the area by shoving foam or insulation up between the drywall to prevent air leakage since the T&G won't be air tight and we run the A/C quite a bit being in Florida. There is a fire break (2x4) running horizontally about 48" high. Do I even need a seal with the firebreak there? Don't worry about a seal. And before you go wild with nails, consider using a construction adhesive. You'll be amazed at how much neater and faster the job goes. Put your 'runners' flat and half under the bottom edge of the cut out drywall and at the bottom of the opening to permit installing baseboard and chair rail. Use adhesive and nails as appropriate to anchor the runners. Using an air powered finish nailer on the trim is definitely the best option. The tiny hole left by the head of the nail is near invisible and easily filled . HTH Joe |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Wainscoting | Woodworking | |||
Anchoring Wainscoting | Woodworking | |||
Wainscoting | Woodworking | |||
What to do with wainscoting and low windows? | Woodworking | |||
Wainscoting | Woodworking |