Home |
Search |
Today's Posts |
|
Woodworking (rec.woodworking) Discussion forum covering all aspects of working with wood. All levels of expertise are encouraged to particiapte. |
Reply |
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
#1
|
|||
|
|||
Wainscoting
I'm about to try my hand at raise paneled wainscoting in my dining room.
I've read a number of books on the subjects and have most of my questions answered, but still have a few more. The wainscoting will be painted white like the rest of the trim. In the books I've been reading, they suggest that MDF works well for the panels, but still use poplar for the rails & stiles. Is there any reason I can't use MDF for the rails and stiles as well? This would keep movement to essentially zero. Secondly, what's the proper way to size the panels? The books have suggested selecting a rail/stile width the same as the window/door trim in the room. Given this, how do I establish a "standard" width for the panels? There was an example in one of the books about the "golden mean" for the rectangles, but I will still have to adjust some widths to get them to fit in the walls. Obviously, I'll have to adjust some panel heights to fit under the windows. Thanks for any help. ~Mark. |
#2
|
|||
|
|||
Wainscoting
"Mark Ohlund" wrote in message news The wainscoting will be painted white like the rest of the trim. In the books I've been reading, they suggest that MDF works well for the panels, but still use poplar for the rails & stiles. Is there any reason I can't use MDF for the rails and stiles as well? This would keep movement to essentially zero. MDF is murder on router bits. Perhaps that's a reason to use poplar, assuming you'll use the router for the rails and stiles. The panels can be cut on the table saw unless you want a fancy ogee profile, but even so you can start on the saw so you're removing less material with the router. Personally, though, for a wainscot I'd stick with either a cove or a bevel profile, both of which you can produce at the TS.... But i digress. I did my family room and used MDF throughout. |
#3
|
|||
|
|||
Wainscoting
The wainscoting will be painted white like the rest of the trim. In the
books I've been reading, they suggest that MDF works well for the panels, but still use poplar for the rails & stiles. Is there any reason I can't use MDF for the rails and stiles as well? This would keep movement to essentially zero. Maybe because the rails and stiles are more likely to suffer dings and dents, and in this respect MDF doesn't hold up very well. |
#4
|
|||
|
|||
Wainscoting
"mp" wrote in message ... The wainscoting will be painted white like the rest of the trim. In the books I've been reading, they suggest that MDF works well for the panels, but still use poplar for the rails & stiles. Is there any reason I can't use MDF for the rails and stiles as well? This would keep movement to essentially zero. Maybe because the rails and stiles are more likely to suffer dings and dents, and in this respect MDF doesn't hold up very well. I have used MDF for panels in the past but not for stiles and rails .the reason, it is homogenious and has low bending strength, [breaks easily] relative to wood which has a higher directional strength...mjh |
#5
|
|||
|
|||
Wainscoting
Sorry I thought you wanted it to look like the real thing ,as it were made
of wood . So as the wainscote will not get any active use just be nailed to the wall and if it is not abused on its way to the final destination it should be fine . As far as the door goes, just dont slam it .......mjh "B a r r y" wrote in message ... On Sat, 13 Mar 2004 08:30:53 GMT, "Mike Hide" wrote: I have used MDF for panels in the past but not for stiles and rails .the reason, it is homogenious and has low bending strength, [breaks easily] relative to wood which has a higher directional strength...mjh I've used MDF for the entire door on several occasions. The reason I'm not worried about stile and rail strength is that the panel can be glued in place. When the entire door is made of a composite material, there's very little movement, so there no reason for the panel to float. The only reason I used built up construction is that I don't like the curved corners left by "MDF Door" bits. These are the bits that simply rout a fake panel on the face of the door. Barry |
Reply |
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
Display Modes | |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Forum | |||
Wainscoting Question | Woodworking | |||
Mission style wainscoting question | Woodworking |