I recently had the basement walls in my house patched and touched up..
I am going to put up drywall after the basement is waterproofed.

I asked the concrete guy if I need to paint over the walls with a
sealer or drylock. He told me that I didn't have to, his concrete work
is sealer enough. But he told me definitley do not use drylock on the
inside of a basement because it will just trap moisture in the wall
and cause it deteriorate, and the concrete will breakdown behind the
concrete and turn to sand and crack over years.

I have been reading articles on putting drywall up in basements, and
they say to put up a vapor barrier and insulation. Also, to wash down
the walls with muriatic acid and paint with Glidden basement paint
(the most mentioned brand.)

Is this the way to go before putting up the wood frame and drywall? Is
what the concrete guy said about drylock pretty true?

The basement waterproof company has this thermal barrier they can put
up that goes into their system that will drain away moisture and water
into their system in case anything comes through the wall, but it is
an extra $600. I think that is exhorbatent for just a foil/plastic
covering.

On Sep 2, 1:06 pm, Chris wrote:
I recently had the basement walls in my house patched and touched up..
I am going to put up drywall after the basement is waterproofed.

I asked the concrete guy if I need to paint over the walls with a
sealer or drylock. He told me that I didn't have to, his concrete work
is sealer enough. But he told me definitley do not use drylock on the
inside of a basement because it will just trap moisture in the wall
and cause it deteriorate, and the concrete will breakdown behind the
concrete and turn to sand and crack over years.

I have been reading articles on putting drywall up in basements, and
they say to put up a vapor barrier and insulation. Also, to wash down
the walls with muriatic acid and paint with Glidden basement paint
(the most mentioned brand.)

Is this the way to go before putting up the wood frame and drywall? Is
what the concrete guy said about drylock pretty true?

The basement waterproof company has this thermal barrier they can put
up that goes into their system that will drain away moisture and water
into their system in case anything comes through the wall, but it is
an extra $600. I think that is exhorbatent for just a foil/plastic
covering.

That has definitely NOT been my experience. Once you stop any
possible seepage from the outside, DryLoc is a great coating and much
better than a plastic vapor barrier. DryLoc is still the best stuff
out there IMO (be sure to have cans shaken as it has solids). I have
seen simple vapor barriers develop condensation between the wall and
plastic then leak down and stink, DryLoc will not allow that.
Insulation is optional because below 48 inches or so the year round
temp will not vary much. I would get more opinoins, but this guy
seems to have a sale motive. I can honestly say that my DryLoc'ed
basement feels as comfortable as the upstairs, as long as you have
heat and (more importantly) plenty of cold air return vents, no
mustiness whatsoever.

On Sep 2, 7:51?pm, RickH wrote:
On Sep 2, 1:06 pm, Chris wrote:





I recently had the basement walls in my house patched and touched up..
I am going to put up drywall after the basement is waterproofed.

I asked the concrete guy if I need to paint over the walls with a
sealer or drylock. He told me that I didn't have to, his concrete work
is sealer enough. But he told me definitley do not use drylock on the
inside of a basement because it will just trap moisture in the wall
and cause it deteriorate, and the concrete will breakdown behind the
concrete and turn to sand and crack over years.

I have been reading articles on putting drywall up in basements, and
they say to put up a vapor barrier and insulation. Also, to wash down
the walls with muriatic acid and paint with Glidden basement paint
(the most mentioned brand.)

Is this the way to go before putting up the wood frame and drywall? Is
what the concrete guy said about drylock pretty true?

The basement waterproof company has this thermal barrier they can put
up that goes into their system that will drain away moisture and water
into their system in case anything comes through the wall, but it is
an extra $600. I think that is exhorbatent for just a foil/plastic
covering.

That has definitely NOT been my experience. Once you stop any
possible seepage from the outside, DryLoc is a great coating and much
better than a plastic vapor barrier. DryLoc is still the best stuff
out there IMO (be sure to have cans shaken as it has solids). I have
seen simple vapor barriers develop condensation between the wall and
plastic then leak down and stink, DryLoc will not allow that.
Insulation is optional because below 48 inches or so the year round
temp will not vary much. I would get more opinoins, but this guy
seems to have a sale motive. I can honestly say that my DryLoc'ed
basement feels as comfortable as the upstairs, as long as you have
heat and (more importantly) plenty of cold air return vents, no
mustiness whatsoever.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

having been thru the basement water hassle, the interior french draoin
is the way to go

what are you spending on the overal remodel? Myself I would drylock
paint then for 600 bucks add the plastic barrier to prevent damage to
interior finishes. I would use moisture resistant drywall too.

Does your basement have a ingress egress window or direct door to
outside? Add either call it a legal bedroom increases resale value of
home

Incidently the interior french drain with drilled holes into a block
bottoms for drainage means no volume of water can get trapped behind
the drylock paint, the added plastic is excellent to minimize soil
moisture and condensation in walls from migrating ito your new
finished space

thanks for replys...

I have a poured basement foundation.. so, the basement waterproof
company will not be drilling holes in it for drainage.