Our A.O.Smith water heater (installed Jan 1996) has recently developed
the following problem -- the pilot light goes out all the time. Any
ideas to keep the pilot lighted?

Is the heater old enough now where I should just get it replaced? It is
working great when the pilot is lighted.

Thanks.

"rick" wrote in message
...
Our A.O.Smith water heater (installed Jan 1996) has recently developed the
following problem -- the pilot light goes out all the time. Any ideas to
keep the pilot lighted?

Is the heater old enough now where I should just get it replaced? It is
working great when the pilot is lighted.

Often this problem is caused by the thermocouple starting to fail.
Replacements are inexpensive and readily available at the big box
stores. And, easy to install. I'd try that first.

"rick" wrote in message
...
Our A.O.Smith water heater (installed Jan 1996) has recently developed the
following problem -- the pilot light goes out all the time. Any ideas to
keep the pilot lighted?

Is the heater old enough now where I should just get it replaced? It is
working great when the pilot is lighted.

Thanks.


How recently has it started and has anything changed? Have you added house
ventilation or a whole house fan that may be sucking air down the flue and
put it out? Open windows that used to be closed setting up a draft?

Or it may be the thermocouple, a cheap and easy fix.

On Jul 22, 11:01 am, rick wrote:
Our A.O.Smith water heater (installed Jan 1996) has recently developed
the following problem -- the pilot light goes out all the time. Any
ideas to keep the pilot lighted?

Is the heater old enough now where I should just get it replaced? It is
working great when the pilot is lighted.

Thanks.

Your gas control may have an adjustment for the pilot flame, usually
tucked under a protective screw cap on the side. Before adjusting,
make sure the vent hasn't been tricked by some change in the venting.
As other posts indicate, thermocouples are common failure modes as
well. HTH

Joe

sorry for being so dense -- big box store implies ?? HomeDepot/Lowe's

I am not a very handy person...would replacing the thermocouple reqire
turning of the gas supply or any other such preventive measure?

Are these thermocouples one size fits all or would it be specific to my
water heater model?

Thanks for your response.

On 7/22/2007 12:13 PM, The Streets wrote:
"rick" wrote in message
...

Our A.O.Smith water heater (installed Jan 1996) has recently developed the
following problem -- the pilot light goes out all the time. Any ideas to
keep the pilot lighted?

Is the heater old enough now where I should just get it replaced? It is
working great when the pilot is lighted.


Often this problem is caused by the thermocouple starting to fail.
Replacements are inexpensive and readily available at the big box
stores. And, easy to install. I'd try that first.

The Streets wrote:
"rick" wrote in message
...
Our A.O.Smith water heater (installed Jan 1996) has recently
developed the following problem -- the pilot light goes out all the
time. Any ideas to keep the pilot lighted?

Is the heater old enough now where I should just get it replaced? It
is working great when the pilot is lighted.

Often this problem is caused by the thermocouple starting to fail.
Replacements are inexpensive and readily available at the big box
stores. And, easy to install. I'd try that first.

I put in a new water heater a couple weeks ago and was (pleasantly)
surprised to see the burner/ignition chamber completely sealed. This water
heater incorporated a piezo igniter similar to what's on gas grills that was
visible through a glass (plastic?) window. I didn't look very close but I
don't remember there being any access to the burner chamber.

"rick" wrote in message
...
sorry for being so dense -- big box store implies ?? HomeDepot/Lowe's

Right.

I am not a very handy person...would replacing the thermocouple reqire
turning of the gas supply or any other such preventive measure?

Should be sufficient to just turn off the supply to the water heater.

Are these thermocouples one size fits all or would it be specific to my
water heater model?

Home Depot has a "universal" model made by Honeywell that fits nearly
everything. Cost ~$7. The lead length is 36" which maybe/probably is
longer than you need. I usually carefully coil the excess in a circle with
a
diameter of ~2" or so. Just be careful not to cut or crimp it.

You'll probably need to remove the entire burner assembly to install it.
That means also disconnecting the gas line to the burner and the one for
the pilot light. Once you do that, it should be obvious and easy to remove
the assembly.

When re-installing, carefully thread all the connections (the 2 gas lines
and
the thermocouple connection) by hand to start with so you avoid any
chance of cross-threading.

If changing the thermocouple and/or gas valve doesn't help, and your water
heater is in the attic, your problem may be it's not getting enough oxygen.
I know it sounds crazy, but both my units in my Texas home are in the attic
and I was having the same problem. I changed the thermocouple and the gas
valve to no avail.

During a call to a service rep, he told me about the oxygen thing and said a
small fan blowing at the base of the heater during the heat of the afternoon
might help.

I put a little 5"-6" fan on a timer, pointed it at the base of the heater
and I haven't had any more problems with the pilot light going out.

- Don
There is no safety for honest men except by believing
all possible evil of evil men. - Edmund Burke

"tom" wrote in message
nk.net...
The Streets wrote:
"rick" wrote in message
...
Our A.O.Smith water heater (installed Jan 1996) has recently
developed the following problem -- the pilot light goes out all the
time. Any ideas to keep the pilot lighted?

Is the heater old enough now where I should just get it replaced? It
is working great when the pilot is lighted.

Often this problem is caused by the thermocouple starting to fail.
Replacements are inexpensive and readily available at the big box
stores. And, easy to install. I'd try that first.

I put in a new water heater a couple weeks ago and was (pleasantly)
surprised to see the burner/ignition chamber completely sealed. This water
heater incorporated a piezo igniter similar to what's on gas grills that
was
visible through a glass (plastic?) window. I didn't look very close but I
don't remember there being any access to the burner chamber.


That's right, it's design to new codes.
Now they're safer and easier for someone to screw up.

"The Streets" wrote in message
...
"rick" wrote in message
...
sorry for being so dense -- big box store implies ?? HomeDepot/Lowe's

Right.

I am not a very handy person...would replacing the thermocouple reqire
turning of the gas supply or any other such preventive measure?

Should be sufficient to just turn off the supply to the water heater.

Are these thermocouples one size fits all or would it be specific to my
water heater model?

Home Depot has a "universal" model made by Honeywell that fits nearly
everything. Cost ~$7. The lead length is 36" which maybe/probably is
longer than you need. I usually carefully coil the excess in a circle
with
a
diameter of ~2" or so. Just be careful not to cut or crimp it.

You'll probably need to remove the entire burner assembly to install it.
That means also disconnecting the gas line to the burner and the one for
the pilot light. Once you do that, it should be obvious and easy to
remove
the assembly.

When re-installing, carefully thread all the connections (the 2 gas lines
and
the thermocouple connection) by hand to start with so you avoid any
chance of cross-threading.


He stated that he's not very handy, but you feel comfortable explaining to
him how to remove a burner from a gas-fired appliance?

WOW

"rick" wrote in message
...
Our A.O.Smith water heater (installed Jan 1996) has recently developed
the following problem -- the pilot light goes out all the time. Any
ideas to keep the pilot lighted?

Is the heater old enough now where I should just get it replaced? It is
working great when the pilot is lighted.

Thanks.


Why not have a competent tech diagnose and repair the unit?

kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"tom" wrote in message
nk.net...
The Streets wrote:
"rick" wrote in message
...
Our A.O.Smith water heater (installed Jan 1996) has recently
developed the following problem -- the pilot light goes out all the
time. Any ideas to keep the pilot lighted?

Is the heater old enough now where I should just get it replaced?
It is working great when the pilot is lighted.

Often this problem is caused by the thermocouple starting to fail.
Replacements are inexpensive and readily available at the big box
stores. And, easy to install. I'd try that first.

I put in a new water heater a couple weeks ago and was (pleasantly)
surprised to see the burner/ignition chamber completely sealed. This
water heater incorporated a piezo igniter similar to what's on gas
grills that was visible through a glass (plastic?) window. I didn't
look very close but I don't remember there being any access to the
burner chamber.


That's right, it's design to new codes.
Now they're safer and easier for someone to screw up.

Don't know about that but they are much easier to light.

"tom" wrote in message
nk.net...
kjpro @ usenet.com wrote:
"tom" wrote in message
nk.net...
The Streets wrote:
"rick" wrote in message
...
Our A.O.Smith water heater (installed Jan 1996) has recently
developed the following problem -- the pilot light goes out all the
time. Any ideas to keep the pilot lighted?

Is the heater old enough now where I should just get it replaced?
It is working great when the pilot is lighted.

Often this problem is caused by the thermocouple starting to fail.
Replacements are inexpensive and readily available at the big box
stores. And, easy to install. I'd try that first.

I put in a new water heater a couple weeks ago and was (pleasantly)
surprised to see the burner/ignition chamber completely sealed. This
water heater incorporated a piezo igniter similar to what's on gas
grills that was visible through a glass (plastic?) window. I didn't
look very close but I don't remember there being any access to the
burner chamber.


That's right, it's design to new codes.
Now they're safer and easier for someone to screw up.

Don't know about that but they are much easier to light.


They're safer because there's no open flame.

They're easier to screw up because there's more parts and people will leave
the covers off, when the bottom screen becomes plugged with cat/dog hair.