I've got a short (2 high 4x4) retaining wall around the pond that I want to
remove temporarily.

So I go out this morning full of **** and vinegar, thinking I'll put my pick
under it and will it loosen right up. Well I wiggled some body parts loose,
but not much luck with the wall. Next, came the big guns, long heavy 2"
steel pipe. I could bend the pipe at will, but the crappy little retaining
wall did not budge. :-(

So I'm wondering if a farm jack might be a better approach to getting it
out, preferably in good shape.

Any ideas?

On 18 Jun, 10:22, "Bill Stock" wrote:
I've got a short (2 high 4x4) retaining wall around the pond that I want to
remove temporarily.

So I go out this morning full of **** and vinegar, thinking I'll put my pick
under it and will it loosen right up. Well I wiggled some body parts loose,
but not much luck with the wall. Next, came the big guns, long heavy 2"
steel pipe. I could bend the pipe at will, but the crappy little retaining
wall did not budge. :-(

So I'm wondering if a farm jack might be a better approach to getting it
out, preferably in good shape.

Any ideas?

Do you have any idea how the wall is fixed to the ground?

There could be re-bar pounded through the 4x4's extending multiple
feet into the ground, and sunk into concrete.
There could be vertical 4x4's extending multiple feet into the ground,
and sunk into concrete.
There could be horizontal members buried under the ground behind the
wall to keep it from tilting forward.
etc, etc.

I think you need to determine how the wall went in, in order to
determine how to get it out.

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
ups.com...
On 18 Jun, 10:22, "Bill Stock" wrote:
I've got a short (2 high 4x4) retaining wall around the pond that I want
to
remove temporarily.

So I go out this morning full of **** and vinegar, thinking I'll put my
pick
under it and will it loosen right up. Well I wiggled some body parts
loose,
but not much luck with the wall. Next, came the big guns, long heavy 2"
steel pipe. I could bend the pipe at will, but the crappy little
retaining
wall did not budge. :-(

So I'm wondering if a farm jack might be a better approach to getting it
out, preferably in good shape.

Any ideas?

Do you have any idea how the wall is fixed to the ground?

There could be re-bar pounded through the 4x4's extending multiple
feet into the ground, and sunk into concrete.
There could be vertical 4x4's extending multiple feet into the ground,
and sunk into concrete.
There could be horizontal members buried under the ground behind the
wall to keep it from tilting forward.
etc, etc.

I think you need to determine how the wall went in, in order to
determine how to get it out.

It's got rebar every 18" or so about 4' into the ground. No cement and no
buried members. So I was surprised I could not just lift it out.

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...
I've got a short (2 high 4x4) retaining wall around the pond that I want
to remove temporarily.

So I go out this morning full of **** and vinegar, thinking I'll put my
pick under it and will it loosen right up. Well I wiggled some body parts
loose, but not much luck with the wall. Next, came the big guns, long
heavy 2" steel pipe. I could bend the pipe at will, but the crappy little
retaining wall did not budge. :-(

So I'm wondering if a farm jack might be a better approach to getting it
out, preferably in good shape.

What is it tied down with? Did you put it in? The 4x4 or railroad tie
retaining walls I put in were usually pinned with 18-30" pieces of rebar
hammered through tight holes. Somtimes in multiple directions. Sometimes
with an L on the end, if the uphill side was being backfilled. The holes
are not always visible in the exposed face of the timber.

aem sends....

"aemeijers" wrote in message
...

"Bill Stock" wrote in message
...
I've got a short (2 high 4x4) retaining wall around the pond that I want
to remove temporarily.

So I go out this morning full of **** and vinegar, thinking I'll put my
pick under it and will it loosen right up. Well I wiggled some body parts
loose, but not much luck with the wall. Next, came the big guns, long
heavy 2" steel pipe. I could bend the pipe at will, but the crappy little
retaining wall did not budge. :-(

So I'm wondering if a farm jack might be a better approach to getting it
out, preferably in good shape.

What is it tied down with? Did you put it in? The 4x4 or railroad tie
retaining walls I put in were usually pinned with 18-30" pieces of rebar
hammered through tight holes. Somtimes in multiple directions. Sometimes
with an L on the end, if the uphill side was being backfilled. The holes
are not always visible in the exposed face of the timber.

aem sends....


Yes, I'm the dip**** who put it in. Since it's more show than go, I expected
it to come out no problem. Bottom 4x4 is held in place by 4' rebar every 18"
hammered more or less straight into the ground. Top row is held in place
with 6" lag bolts.

On Jun 19, 9:15 pm, "Bill Stock" wrote:

Yes, I'm the dip**** who put it in. Since it's more show than go, I expected
it to come out no problem. Bottom 4x4 is held in place by 4' rebar every 18"
hammered more or less straight into the ground. Top row is held in place
with 6" lag bolts.

You've discovered the reason for the deformations on the rebar. If
they hold the rebar that tight in soil, think what it does in
concrete. You may have to cut it up and take it out in pieces.

R

"RicodJour" wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 19, 9:15 pm, "Bill Stock" wrote:

Yes, I'm the dip**** who put it in. Since it's more show than go, I
expected
it to come out no problem. Bottom 4x4 is held in place by 4' rebar every
18"
hammered more or less straight into the ground. Top row is held in place
with 6" lag bolts.

You've discovered the reason for the deformations on the rebar. If
they hold the rebar that tight in soil, think what it does in
concrete. You may have to cut it up and take it out in pieces.

42" in the ground every 18"!?! Yeah, that is gonna hold on pretty tight.
Just what were you expecting to push on the thing?

Get out the wrench and unbolt top layer, and use a shovel and sawzall or
angle grinder to chop off the rebar under the bottom layer. Just pound the
stubs into ground where they won't mess up what new work you are doing.
Rebar is cheap- make new pins when you put it back. IMHO, they don't need to
be that long- a couple of feet is plenty for an 8" high wall.

aem sends....