I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I tried to
start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the pull cord. Second
time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was off, but
I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the coil and still
the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it off and
try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull cord out of
my hand violently.
Any suggestions?

On Fri, 8 Jun 2007 19:53:57 -0230, "jacko"
wrote:



I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I tried to
start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the pull cord. Second
time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was off, but
I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the coil and still
the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it off and
try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull cord out of
my hand violently.
Any suggestions?


I would pull the tappet cover off and see it the valves are working,
and not *sticking*. Weak valve spring?

--
Oren

"I didn’t say it was your fault, I said I was blaming you."

jacko,

Are you sure that the correct sparkplug is installed and that it is
correctly gapped?

Dave M.

On Jun 8, 5:23 pm, "jacko" wrote:
I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I tried to
start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the pull cord. Second
time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was off, but
I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the coil and still
the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it off and
try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull cord out of
my hand violently.
Any suggestions?

It does sound out-of-time (sheared key). As I recall...different
models have their own color-coded flywheel key. Could this have the
wrong key for that model?
Also, with the light-weight flywheels...it is important to have the
blade tight (and some blade adapters can shear)

On Jun 8, 3:23 pm, "jacko" wrote:
I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I tried to
start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the pull cord. Second
time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was off, but
I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the coil and still
the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it off and
try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull cord out of
my hand violently.
Any suggestions?

Check the flywheel key again. I had one that was doing what you
describe. On second inspection I found that the key was slightly
indented. It doesn't take much to throw the timing off.

Harry K

Following the comments I received, I did some re-checking. I pulled the
flywheel again and inspected the key and keyway. Both were in good shape.
I pulled the head and cleaned away a little carbon. The valves were working
well.
I changed the spark plug to insure the correct one and gapped it.
I reassembled and attempted to start it. The thing kicked back and left me
with a very sore finger.
While I had the head off, I noted a score in the cylinder wall. Not really
deep. I can't imagine what this might do to cause the symptoms I have.
I'm baffled.


"jacko" wrote in message
...


I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I tried
to start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the pull cord.
Second time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was off,
but I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the coil and
still the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it off
and try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull cord
out of my hand violently.
Any suggestions?

I think I'm telling you right. Tecumseh has different keys that
advance different amounts. You must have the model number of your
motor to make sure you have the correct key.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"jacko" wrote in message
...
Following the comments I received, I did some re-checking. I
pulled the flywheel again and inspected the key and keyway. Both
were in good shape.
I pulled the head and cleaned away a little carbon. The valves
were working well.
I changed the spark plug to insure the correct one and gapped
it.
I reassembled and attempted to start it. The thing kicked back
and left me with a very sore finger.
While I had the head off, I noted a score in the cylinder wall.
Not really deep. I can't imagine what this might do to cause the
symptoms I have.
I'm baffled.


"jacko" wrote in message
...


I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4
stroke. I tried to start it and it kicked back hard. First time
it busted the pull cord. Second time it nearly pulled my finger
off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing
was off, but I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air
gap on the coil and still the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great .
Shut it off and try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and
yanks the pull cord out of my hand violently.
Any suggestions?

You are right of course. The problem that I have, started suddenly. This
mower was being started and used by a kid. It was used earlier this year. No
one had the flywheel off before me.Also there are no markings on the motor
or mower bed which makes it difficult to identify the model. I suspect it is
destined for the parts box.

"DanG" wrote in message
...
I think I'm telling you right. Tecumseh has different keys that advance
different amounts. You must have the model number of your motor to make
sure you have the correct key.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"jacko" wrote in message
...
Following the comments I received, I did some re-checking. I pulled the
flywheel again and inspected the key and keyway. Both were in good shape.
I pulled the head and cleaned away a little carbon. The valves were
working well.
I changed the spark plug to insure the correct one and gapped it.
I reassembled and attempted to start it. The thing kicked back and left
me with a very sore finger.
While I had the head off, I noted a score in the cylinder wall. Not
really deep. I can't imagine what this might do to cause the symptoms I
have.
I'm baffled.


"jacko" wrote in message
...


I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I tried
to start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the pull cord.
Second time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was off,
but I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the coil
and still the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it off
and try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull cord
out of my hand violently.
Any suggestions?

http://www.tecumsehpower.com/Custome...NumberSpec.pdf

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"jacko" wrote in message
...
You are right of course. The problem that I have, started
suddenly. This
mower was being started and used by a kid. It was used earlier
this year. No
one had the flywheel off before me.Also there are no markings on
the motor
or mower bed which makes it difficult to identify the model. I
suspect it is destined for the parts box.

"DanG" wrote in message
...
I think I'm telling you right. Tecumseh has different keys that
advance different amounts. You must have the model number of
your motor to make sure you have the correct key.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"jacko" wrote in message
...
Following the comments I received, I did some re-checking. I
pulled the flywheel again and inspected the key and keyway.
Both were in good shape.
I pulled the head and cleaned away a little carbon. The valves
were working well.
I changed the spark plug to insure the correct one and gapped
it.
I reassembled and attempted to start it. The thing kicked back
and left me with a very sore finger.
While I had the head off, I noted a score in the cylinder
wall. Not really deep. I can't imagine what this might do to
cause the symptoms I have.
I'm baffled.


"jacko" wrote in message
...


I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4
stroke. I tried to start it and it kicked back hard. First
time it busted the pull cord. Second time it nearly pulled my
finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the
timing was off, but I checked that and that's not it. I reset
the air gap on the coil and still the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great .
Shut it off and try to restart and the dam thing kicks back
and yanks the pull cord out of my hand violently.
Any suggestions?

Dan G. Thank you very much for your help. I just went to my shed and the
number was right where it said it was on that site. It's worth a try to pick
up the right key. I'll try that when the dealer opens on Monday and I'll
post the results.

"DanG" wrote in message
...
http://www.tecumsehpower.com/Custome...NumberSpec.pdf

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"jacko" wrote in message
...
You are right of course. The problem that I have, started suddenly. This
mower was being started and used by a kid. It was used earlier this year.
No
one had the flywheel off before me.Also there are no markings on the
motor
or mower bed which makes it difficult to identify the model. I suspect it
is destined for the parts box.

"DanG" wrote in message
...
I think I'm telling you right. Tecumseh has different keys that advance
different amounts. You must have the model number of your motor to make
sure you have the correct key.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"jacko" wrote in message
...
Following the comments I received, I did some re-checking. I pulled the
flywheel again and inspected the key and keyway. Both were in good
shape.
I pulled the head and cleaned away a little carbon. The valves were
working well.
I changed the spark plug to insure the correct one and gapped it.
I reassembled and attempted to start it. The thing kicked back and left
me with a very sore finger.
While I had the head off, I noted a score in the cylinder wall. Not
really deep. I can't imagine what this might do to cause the symptoms I
have.
I'm baffled.


"jacko" wrote in message
...


I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I
tried to start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the
pull cord. Second time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was
off, but I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the
coil and still the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it
off and try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull
cord out of my hand violently.
Any suggestions?

"jacko" wrote in message
...
Following the comments I received, I did some re-checking. I pulled the
flywheel again and inspected the key and keyway. Both were in good shape.
I pulled the head and cleaned away a little carbon. The valves were
working well.
I changed the spark plug to insure the correct one and gapped it.
I reassembled and attempted to start it. The thing kicked back and left me
with a very sore finger.
While I had the head off, I noted a score in the cylinder wall. Not really
deep. I can't imagine what this might do to cause the symptoms I have.
I'm baffled.


"jacko" wrote in message
...


I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I tried
to start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the pull cord.
Second time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was off,
but I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the coil and
still the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it off
and try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull cord
out of my hand violently.
Any suggestions?



You aren't possibly trying to start it without the blade attached, are you?
Most mowers with a directly attached blade only have a lightweight flywheel
and depend on the blade to provide enough flywheel action for the engine to
start without kicking back.

Some engines also have some form of compression release to help starting.
Some engines lift one of the valves slightly open and too much valve
clearance will defeat this and make it hard to turn over and also kick back.

Don't know if any of this applies to your case.

Don Young

On Sat, 9 Jun 2007 12:39:31 -0230, "jacko"
wrote:

While I had the head off, I noted a score in the cylinder wall. Not really
deep. I can't imagine what this might do to cause the symptoms I have.
I'm baffled.


Quick lesson! A scared cylinder will damage the rings!! A burr in the
cylinder can affect the ring(s). Without that scenario, the rings can
aligned and you have issues.
--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."

DanG wrote:
http://www.tecumsehpower.com/Custome...NumberSpec.pdf

Nice reference, thanks for the cite to the site.

Oh my! That sounds like a possibility. I do have the motor mounted on the
bench, without the blade. I'll put it in the mower bed and install the
blade. Thanks for the hint.
"Don Young" wrote in message
...

"jacko" wrote in message
...
Following the comments I received, I did some re-checking. I pulled the
flywheel again and inspected the key and keyway. Both were in good shape.
I pulled the head and cleaned away a little carbon. The valves were
working well.
I changed the spark plug to insure the correct one and gapped it.
I reassembled and attempted to start it. The thing kicked back and left
me with a very sore finger.
While I had the head off, I noted a score in the cylinder wall. Not
really deep. I can't imagine what this might do to cause the symptoms I
have.
I'm baffled.


"jacko" wrote in message
...


I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I tried
to start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the pull cord.
Second time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was off,
but I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the coil
and still the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it off
and try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull cord
out of my hand violently.
Any suggestions?



You aren't possibly trying to start it without the blade attached, are
you? Most mowers with a directly attached blade only have a lightweight
flywheel and depend on the blade to provide enough flywheel action for the
engine to start without kicking back.

Some engines also have some form of compression release to help starting.
Some engines lift one of the valves slightly open and too much valve
clearance will defeat this and make it hard to turn over and also kick
back.

Don't know if any of this applies to your case.

Don Young

On Jun 10, 6:30 am, "jacko" wrote:
Oh my! That sounds like a possibility. I do have the motor mounted on the
bench, without the blade. I'll put it in the mower bed and install the
blade. Thanks for the hint."Don Young" wrote in message

...



"jacko" wrote in message
.. .
Following the comments I received, I did some re-checking. I pulled the
flywheel again and inspected the key and keyway. Both were in good shape.
I pulled the head and cleaned away a little carbon. The valves were
working well.
I changed the spark plug to insure the correct one and gapped it.
I reassembled and attempted to start it. The thing kicked back and left
me with a very sore finger.
While I had the head off, I noted a score in the cylinder wall. Not
really deep. I can't imagine what this might do to cause the symptoms I
have.
I'm baffled.

"jacko" wrote in message
. ..

I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I tried
to start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the pull cord.
Second time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was off,
but I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the coil
and still the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it off
and try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull cord
out of my hand violently.
Any suggestions?

You aren't possibly trying to start it without the blade attached, are
you? Most mowers with a directly attached blade only have a lightweight
flywheel and depend on the blade to provide enough flywheel action for the
engine to start without kicking back.

Some engines also have some form of compression release to help starting.
Some engines lift one of the valves slightly open and too much valve
clearance will defeat this and make it hard to turn over and also kick
back.

Don't know if any of this applies to your case.

Don Young

Previous post:
It does sound out-of-time (sheared key). As I recall...different
models have their own color-coded flywheel key. Could this have the
wrong key for that model?
[[Also, with the light-weight flywheels...it is important to have the
blade tight (and some blade adapters can shear)]]

Is anyone paying attention...or am I in your killfile?

On Jun 9, 8:56 pm, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 9 Jun 2007 12:39:31 -0230, "jacko"
wrote:

While I had the head off, I noted a score in the cylinder wall. Not really
deep. I can't imagine what this might do to cause the symptoms I have.
I'm baffled.

Quick lesson! A scared cylinder will damage the rings!! A burr in the
cylinder can affect the ring(s). Without that scenario, the rings can
aligned and you have issues.
--
Oren

"I don't have anything against work. I just figure, why deprive somebody who really loves it."

True but the 'issues' will be loss of compression to some degree plus
oil consumption. It will not cause his problem.

Harry K

Oren wrote:
....

Quick lesson! A scared cylinder ...

I hurt things (often one them being me) when I'm scared, too...

--

Thanks for your reply. No you're not in a kill file. I had a seniors moment
I guess.
wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 10, 6:30 am, "jacko" wrote:
Oh my! That sounds like a possibility. I do have the motor mounted on the
bench, without the blade. I'll put it in the mower bed and install the
blade. Thanks for the hint."Don Young" wrote in
message

...



"jacko" wrote in message
.. .
Following the comments I received, I did some re-checking. I pulled
the
flywheel again and inspected the key and keyway. Both were in good
shape.
I pulled the head and cleaned away a little carbon. The valves were
working well.
I changed the spark plug to insure the correct one and gapped it.
I reassembled and attempted to start it. The thing kicked back and
left
me with a very sore finger.
While I had the head off, I noted a score in the cylinder wall. Not
really deep. I can't imagine what this might do to cause the symptoms
I
have.
I'm baffled.

"jacko" wrote in message
. ..

I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I
tried
to start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the pull
cord.
Second time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was
off,
but I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the coil
and still the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it
off
and try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull
cord
out of my hand violently.
Any suggestions?

You aren't possibly trying to start it without the blade attached, are
you? Most mowers with a directly attached blade only have a lightweight
flywheel and depend on the blade to provide enough flywheel action for
the
engine to start without kicking back.

Some engines also have some form of compression release to help
starting.
Some engines lift one of the valves slightly open and too much valve
clearance will defeat this and make it hard to turn over and also kick
back.

Don't know if any of this applies to your case.

Don Young

Previous post:
It does sound out-of-time (sheared key). As I recall...different
models have their own color-coded flywheel key. Could this have the
wrong key for that model?
[[Also, with the light-weight flywheels...it is important to have the
blade tight (and some blade adapters can shear)]]

Is anyone paying attention...or am I in your killfile?

Sorry.
"Meat Plow" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 10 Jun 2007 09:00:47 -0230, jacko wrote:

Subject: Tecumpise Problem
From: "jacko"
Newsgroups: alt.home.repair
Date: Sun, 10 Jun 2007 09:00:47 -0230

Oh my! That sounds like a possibility. I do have the motor mounted on the
bench, without the blade. I'll put it in the mower bed and install the
blade. Thanks for the hint.

Well for crying out loud, why didn't you mention that in the first
place??????


--
#1 Offishul Ruiner of Usenet, March 2007
#1 Usenet Asshole, March 2007
#1 Bartlo Pset, March 13-24 2007
#10 Most hated Usenetizen of all time
#8 AUK Hate Machine Cog
Pierre Salinger Memorial Hook, Line & Sinker, June 2004
COOSN-266-06-25794

On Jun 10, 9:50 am, "jacko" wrote:
Thanks for your reply. No you're not in a kill file. I had a seniors moment
I wrote in message

No one here, is more senior than myself...61yrs old (crap! nearly 62)

Ha ha your still a boy. :-)
wrote in message
oups.com...
On Jun 10, 9:50 am, "jacko" wrote:
Thanks for your reply. No you're not in a kill file. I had a seniors
moment
I wrote in message

No one here, is more senior than myself...61yrs old (crap! nearly 62)

Thank you to all who replied and offered suggestions as to the problem. Had
I noticed an earlier post I would have realized sooner, that the weight of
the blade plays an important part to assist the light weight flywheel in
turning the motor when you pull it over. Well I learned a lot from this
thread.
Oh yes, when I put the motor on the body and installed the blade, it started
with the first pull and didn't try to yank my arm off.
"jacko" wrote in message
...


I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I tried
to start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the pull cord.
Second time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was off,
but I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the coil and
still the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it off
and try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull cord
out of my hand violently.
Any suggestions?

"jacko" wrote in message
...
Thank you to all who replied and offered suggestions as to the problem.
Had I noticed an earlier post I would have realized sooner, that the
weight of the blade plays an important part to assist the light weight
flywheel in turning the motor when you pull it over. Well I learned a lot
from this thread.
Oh yes, when I put the motor on the body and installed the blade, it
started with the first pull and didn't try to yank my arm off.
"jacko" wrote in message
...


I recently inherited a lawn mower with a 3.5 Tecumseh 4 stroke. I tried
to start it and it kicked back hard. First time it busted the pull cord.
Second time it nearly pulled my finger off.
I was sure that the flywheel key was sheared off and the timing was off,
but I checked that and that's not it. I reset the air gap on the coil and
still the same.
I did get it to start a couple of times and it runs great . Shut it off
and try to restart and the dam thing kicks back and yanks the pull cord
out of my hand violently.
Any suggestions?



I count the day lost when I don't learn something new.

Don Young

On Jun 10, 9:46 am, wrote:
On Jun 10, 9:50 am, "jacko" wrote: Thanks for your reply. No you're not in a kill file. I had a seniors moment
I wrote in message

No one here, is more senior than myself...61yrs old (crap! nearly 62)

You lose: 72

Harry K