I am installing new fascia boards using PT 2x12 - it is attached to
the ends of the roof framing and is rested on the other end by an
aluminum screen enclosure.

I would like to paint the fascia boards to match the color of the
soffit, but when I did some research on the net it seems several links
mentioned that PR lumber should not be painted due to high moisture
content and will cause the paint to not adhere. Is there a way around
this?

Also the installer who replaced the fascia board did all the cutting
outdoor inside the screen enclosure and lots and lots of saw dust went
into the swimming pool which is right inside the screen area. I read
that the saw dust contains toxins and is irritable to skins, so if
it's floating all over my pool water should I be worried?

Thanks,

MC

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message

I would like to paint the fascia boards to match the color of the
soffit, but when I did some research on the net it seems several links
mentioned that PR lumber should not be painted due to high moisture
content and will cause the paint to not adhere. Is there a way around
this?

Time. wait until next year.



Also the installer who replaced the fascia board did all the cutting
outdoor inside the screen enclosure and lots and lots of saw dust went
into the swimming pool which is right inside the screen area. I read
that the saw dust contains toxins and is irritable to skins, so if
it's floating all over my pool water should I be worried?

If the pool skimmer cleans it up you should be OK. I'd not want the dust
getting up my nose or in my eyes though.

On May 15, 10:44 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
"MiamiCuse" wrote in message

I would like to paint the fascia boards to match the color of the
soffit, but when I did some research on the net it seems several links
mentioned that PR lumber should not be painted due to high moisture
content and will cause the paint to not adhere. Is there a way around
this?

Time. wait until next year.



Also the installer who replaced the fascia board did all the cutting
outdoor inside the screen enclosure and lots and lots of saw dust went
into the swimming pool which is right inside the screen area. I read
that the saw dust contains toxins and is irritable to skins, so if
it's floating all over my pool water should I be worried?

If the pool skimmer cleans it up you should be OK. I'd not want the dust
getting up my nose or in my eyes though.

I guess in addition to the actual skin contact, I am concerned with
whether the arsenic agent in the saw dust from the treated wood would
dissolve in the pool water and could cause harm?

I read that "Arsenic is a component in the most prevalent wood
preservative formulation in use. This formulation is known as CCA,
which stands for chromated copper arsenic. Deep penetration of the
water borne formulation is achieved by application under high
pressure. The most common formulation results in a wood concentration
of the Cr, Cu, and As of between 0.1-0.2%. Higher levels of arsenic
from between 0.4-1.8% are employed for wood foundation and marine
applications. Millions of board feet of CCA wood are produced each
year, where it is used in the construction of decks, picnic tables,
playground equipment, highway sound barriers, telephone poles and
docks."

Will the dust poison the pool water I wonder.

MC

On May 16, 12:21�pm, MiamiCuse wrote:
On May 15, 10:44 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:





"MiamiCuse" wrote in message

I would like to paint the fascia boards to match the color of the
soffit, but when I did some research on the net it seems several links
mentioned that PR lumber should not be painted due to high moisture
content and will cause the paint to not adhere. *Is there a way around
this?

Time. *wait until next year.

Also the installer who replaced the fascia board did all the cutting
outdoor inside the screen enclosure and lots and lots of saw dust went
into the swimming pool which is right inside the screen area. *I read
that the saw dust contains toxins and is irritable to skins, so if
it's floating all over my pool water should I be worried?

If the pool skimmer cleans it up you should be OK. *I'd not want the dust
getting up my nose or in my eyes though.

I guess in addition to the actual skin contact, I am concerned with
whether the arsenic agent in the saw dust from the treated wood would
dissolve in the pool water and could cause harm?

I read that "Arsenic is a component in the most prevalent wood
preservative formulation in use. This formulation is known as CCA,
which stands for chromated copper arsenic. Deep penetration of the
water borne formulation is achieved by application under high
pressure. The most common formulation results in a wood concentration
of the Cr, Cu, and As of between 0.1-0.2%. Higher levels of arsenic
from between 0.4-1.8% are employed for wood foundation and marine
applications. Millions of board feet of CCA wood are produced each
year, where it is used in the construction of decks, picnic tables,
playground equipment, highway sound barriers, telephone poles and
docks."

Will the dust poison the pool water I wonder.

MC- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

call the wood manufacturer and ask.
the worker was really dumb,

treated wood never accepts paint well, probably better to cover with
alumnimum, with baked on finish

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
I guess in addition to the actual skin contact, I am concerned with
whether the arsenic agent in the saw dust from the treated wood would
dissolve in the pool water and could cause harm?

Will the dust poison the pool water I wonder.

Dilution is your friend. I doubt much would dissolve but a few rain storms
and the water will be diluted. I don't know if there is a simple test strip
for arsenic in drinking water.

If in doubt, invite the in-laws for a pool party and let them go in first.

On May 15, 9:16 pm, MiamiCuse wrote:
I would like to paint the fascia boards to match the color of the
soffit, but when I did some research on the net it seems several links
mentioned that PR lumber should not be painted due to high moisture
content and will cause the paint to not adhere. Is there a way around
this?

I have had good luck painting PT lumber. I use an oil base primer
which is more trouble but adheres very well. You can let the wood dry
for a while after it is intalled if you are worried. Then paint at
your leisure from a secure scaffold.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:bVH2i.14584$w51.442@trndny09...

"MiamiCuse" wrote in message
I guess in addition to the actual skin contact, I am concerned with
whether the arsenic agent in the saw dust from the treated wood would
dissolve in the pool water and could cause harm?

Will the dust poison the pool water I wonder.

Dilution is your friend. I doubt much would dissolve but a few rain
storms and the water will be diluted. I don't know if there is a simple
test strip for arsenic in drinking water.

If in doubt, invite the in-laws for a pool party and let them go in first.


In-laws, hmm....

"Lawrence" wrote in message
oups.com...
On May 15, 9:16 pm, MiamiCuse wrote:
I would like to paint the fascia boards to match the color of the
soffit, but when I did some research on the net it seems several links
mentioned that PR lumber should not be painted due to high moisture
content and will cause the paint to not adhere. Is there a way around
this?

I have had good luck painting PT lumber. I use an oil base primer
which is more trouble but adheres very well. You can let the wood dry
for a while after it is intalled if you are worried. Then paint at
your leisure from a secure scaffold.


How long do you wait? A week or three months?

Thanks!

On May 17, 11:05�pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"Lawrence" wrote in message

oups.com...

On May 15, 9:16 pm, MiamiCuse wrote:
I would like to paint the fascia boards to match the color of the
soffit, but when I did some research on the net it seems several links
mentioned that PR lumber should not be painted due to high moisture
content and will cause the paint to not adhere. *Is there a way around
this?

I have had good luck painting PT lumber. *I use an oil base primer
which is more trouble but adheres very well. *You can let the wood dry
for a while after it is intalled if you are worried. *Then paint at
your leisure from a secure scaffold.

How long do you wait? *A week or three months?

Thanks!

treated wood PERMANETELY expands and contracts more than regular wood,
note it splits and barberpolls, twists etc.

you should ONLY STAIN PT wood, never paint it because of these issues.

use a solid color stain after leaving woood age / weather 6 months

On May 17, 10:05 pm, "MiamiCuse" wrote:
"Lawrence" wrote in message

oups.com...

On May 15, 9:16 pm, MiamiCuse wrote:
I would like to paint the fascia boards to match the color of the
soffit, but when I did some research on the net it seems several links
mentioned that PR lumber should not be painted due to high moisture
content and will cause the paint to not adhere. Is there a way around
this?

I have had good luck painting PT lumber. I use an oil base primer
which is more trouble but adheres very well. You can let the wood dry
for a while after it is intalled if you are worried. Then paint at
your leisure from a secure scaffold.

How long do you wait? A week or three months?

Thanks!

In my opinion there is no need to wait at all where an oil-based paint
is used. On the other hand, PT wood need not have any paint at all.
You choose.

So.....It's all up to you and what you want or need. Do it whenever
the weather is nice and it's convenient for you. I also use oils for
the top coat. They adhere so well that there is no worry for the
paint. It will not fail.

If it were me, I would paint the boards on sawhorses and then install,
much easier than painting from a scaffold and gives you a chance to
prime the backside.

I know there's a guy who says never paint PT. I'm sure he means
well. Any wood can check or split. That don't mean the paint has
failed. It can be touched up or re-painted, no problem. If you want
paint then you can have it.

Oil-base paint, that's the solution. Adheres to anything and gives
you a better finish, IMHO. The typical big box only stocks latex so
go to a real paint store. Just don't forget the mineral spirits or
paint thinner for clean up!

On May 18, 4:25�pm, NickySantoro wrote:
On 15 May 2007 19:16:28 -0700, MiamiCuse wrote:





I am installing new fascia boards using PT 2x12 - it is attached to
the ends of the roof framing and is rested on the other end by an
aluminum screen enclosure.

I would like to paint the fascia boards to match the color of the
soffit, but when I did some research on the net it seems several links
mentioned that PR lumber should not be painted due to high moisture
content and will cause the paint to not adhere. *Is there a way around
this?

Also the installer who replaced the fascia board did all the cutting
outdoor inside the screen enclosure and lots and lots of saw dust went
into the swimming pool which is right inside the screen area. *I read
that the saw dust contains toxins and is irritable to skins, so if
it's floating all over my pool water should I be worried?

Thanks,

MC

Wait a month, prime with OB, top coat with latex.
I don't believe the newer pressure treated is made with CCA. Even if
it is a bit of dust in a whole pool would be negligible. Don't over
think the issue.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

DONT PAINT PT WOOD, just had a friend replace her deck, mechanically
it was fine but her hubby had painted it, it always looked bad, no
matter who and what was painted on it.

use solid color matching stain after the boards have dried and
weathered, or be prepared to replace the boards again, it will be
terrible trying to get paint to stick over time.

wrote in message
oups.com...
On May 18, 4:25?pm, NickySantoro wrote:
On 15 May 2007 19:16:28 -0700, MiamiCuse wrote:





I am installing new fascia boards using PT 2x12 - it is attached to
the ends of the roof framing and is rested on the other end by an
aluminum screen enclosure.

I would like to paint the fascia boards to match the color of the
soffit, but when I did some research on the net it seems several links
mentioned that PR lumber should not be painted due to high moisture
content and will cause the paint to not adhere. Is there a way around
this?

Also the installer who replaced the fascia board did all the cutting
outdoor inside the screen enclosure and lots and lots of saw dust went
into the swimming pool which is right inside the screen area. I read
that the saw dust contains toxins and is irritable to skins, so if
it's floating all over my pool water should I be worried?

Thanks,

MC

Wait a month, prime with OB, top coat with latex.
I don't believe the newer pressure treated is made with CCA. Even if
it is a bit of dust in a whole pool would be negligible. Don't over
think the issue.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

DONT PAINT PT WOOD, just had a friend replace her deck, mechanically
it was fine but her hubby had painted it, it always looked bad, no
matter who and what was painted on it.

use solid color matching stain after the boards have dried and
weathered, or be prepared to replace the boards again, it will be
terrible trying to get paint to stick over time.

All my window trim and sills and all fascia boards are pressure treated.
Never had any paint issues with the PT that I didn't have with the pine
clapboards. Good oil base primer with latex over it, and it lasts 10 years.
The PT doesn't peel, crack or fade any sooner than the pine.

For my PT deck, I use milk paint (shaker paint) on it, and while that will
fade in a few years, there's no peeling or streaking. The reason I don't use
that on the house is that it only works on raw wood, and I'm not going to
strip the whole house down to bare wood when there's no need to.

All my window trim and sills and all fascia boards are pressure treated.
Never had any paint issues with the PT that I didn't have with the pine
clapboards. Good oil base primer with latex over it, and it lasts 10
years. The PT doesn't peel, crack or fade any sooner than the pine.

For my PT deck, I use milk paint (shaker paint) on it, and while that will
fade in a few years, there's no peeling or streaking. The reason I don't
use that on the house is that it only works on raw wood, and I'm not going
to strip the whole house down to bare wood when there's no need to.