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AL Snowblower Engine: Cracked Block Likely ?
Hello:
Replaced the oil in my Ariens snowblower for the season yesterday by draining it out thru the drain tube they have on the bottom of the engine. The engine appears to be an AL block. Had a devil of a time loosening the plug at the end, and finally ended up having to remove the complete draintube itself from where it is screwed into the engine block. Has NPT male threads on both tube ends. Anyway, might have been a bit too ambitious in tightening it back into the block. Head a fairly loud "ping", but it still "seem to" snuggle up tight into the block, and no evidence of stripped threads. No discernable oil leakage anywhere. Probably getting a bit ahead of myself in worrying about this possibility now, but thought I'd ask: Think it's likely the male tube going into the block a bit too much (as it has the tapered NPT thread) split the Al block at that point ? The noise of the ping I heard makes me wonder ? Or, perhaps the noise was a thread skipping, or... ? Main question: If the block is split there, can it be re-welded ? Or ? Thanks, Bob |
#2
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AL Snowblower Engine: Cracked Block Likely ?
youll know when engine gets hot if its cracked by oil drip.
http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm |
#3
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AL Snowblower Engine: Cracked Block Likely ?
Robert11 wrote:
Hello: Replaced the oil in my Ariens snowblower for the season yesterday by draining it out thru the drain tube they have on the bottom of the engine. The engine appears to be an AL block. Had a devil of a time loosening the plug at the end, and finally ended up having to remove the complete draintube itself from where it is screwed into the engine block. Has NPT male threads on both tube ends. Anyway, might have been a bit too ambitious in tightening it back into the block. Head a fairly loud "ping", but it still "seem to" snuggle up tight into the block, and no evidence of stripped threads. No discernable oil leakage anywhere. Probably getting a bit ahead of myself in worrying about this possibility now, but thought I'd ask: Think it's likely the male tube going into the block a bit too much (as it has the tapered NPT thread) split the Al block at that point ? The noise of the ping I heard makes me wonder ? Or, perhaps the noise was a thread skipping, or... ? Main question: If the block is split there, can it be re-welded ? "Re-welded" ? Sounds like this isn't the first time you've busted it Bob. G Jeff -- Jeffry Wisnia (W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE) The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight. |
#4
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AL Snowblower Engine: Cracked Block Likely ?
Robert11 wrote: Hello: Replaced the oil in my Ariens snowblower for the season yesterday by draining it out thru the drain tube they have on the bottom of the engine. The engine appears to be an AL block. Had a devil of a time loosening the plug at the end, and finally ended up having to remove the complete draintube itself from where it is screwed into the engine block. Has NPT male threads on both tube ends. Anyway, might have been a bit too ambitious in tightening it back into the block. Head a fairly loud "ping", but it still "seem to" snuggle up tight into the block, and no evidence of stripped threads. No discernable oil leakage anywhere. Probably getting a bit ahead of myself in worrying about this possibility now, but thought I'd ask: Think it's likely the male tube going into the block a bit too much (as it has the tapered NPT thread) split the Al block at that point ? The noise of the ping I heard makes me wonder ? Or, perhaps the noise was a thread skipping, or... ? Main question: If the block is split there, can it be re-welded ? Or ? Thanks, Bob You know now you should have held the tube tightly with ViseGrips while you took off the drain cap (or plug). In the event that you have a mechanical problem or leak, it can be welded. You may have broken off a reinforcing web in the crankcase which could cause trouble, hard to say. A shop with a good TIG welder can deal with cracks that leak. It won't be cheap as the oil in many castings makes carbon bits that get in way of running a nice clean bead. The welder has to 'work' the weld, keeping it molten until the crud floats to the top. Once welded, retapping your threaded places will keep leaks at bay. Reinstall the tube with Permatex #3 and it should last quite a while. HTH Joe |
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