I have a balcony on the back of my house. It is outside the master
bedroom, with a sliding door leading out to it. The sliding door
needs to be replaced. My problem is getting it to the second floor.
Because of turns, it can't really go through the house, at least not
without first being dismantled. If I dismantle it first, I can't be
sure it won't leak later.

The door is extremely heavy. The balcony is about 9-10 feet off the
ground. The area is not accessible for a boom truck. The skidsteers/
forklifts can't go higher than 8 feet.

My thoughts we 1) get long 2 x 12s and ease the door up them on an
angle using ropes, 2) make a set of satirs to walk it up (perhaps
ridiculously labor intensive) 3) get really strong giants to carry it
up

Does anyone have any better ideas?

wrote:
I have a balcony on the back of my house. It is outside the master
bedroom, with a sliding door leading out to it. The sliding door
needs to be replaced. My problem is getting it to the second floor.
Because of turns, it can't really go through the house, at least not
without first being dismantled. If I dismantle it first, I can't be
sure it won't leak later.

The door is extremely heavy. The balcony is about 9-10 feet off the
ground. The area is not accessible for a boom truck. The skidsteers/
forklifts can't go higher than 8 feet.

My thoughts we 1) get long 2 x 12s and ease the door up them on an
angle using ropes, 2) make a set of satirs to walk it up (perhaps
ridiculously labor intensive) 3) get really strong giants to carry it
up

Does anyone have any better ideas?

Don't lift - hoist.

Block and tackle from the roof.

wrote in message

The door is extremely heavy. The balcony is about 9-10 feet off the
ground. The area is not accessible for a boom truck. The skidsteers/
forklifts can't go higher than 8 feet.


Sure they can. Just put a platform on the forks to raise the door by the 1
or 2 feet you need. Lift up and slide the door off.

On Apr 23, 8:52 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:
wrote in message

The door is extremely heavy. The balcony is about 9-10 feet off the
ground. The area is not accessible for a boom truck. The skidsteers/
forklifts can't go higher than 8 feet.

Sure they can. Just put a platform on the forks to raise the door by the 1
or 2 feet you need. Lift up and slide the door off.

I would look at taking the doors (glass) out. Usually you can, though
you might want to call the company who is making your unit. Then the
frame should be easy to lift up on the outside, and surely you have
the room to take the doors up inside the house. Otherwise, I think the
forklift idea is the best. Anything you build, be it off the roof or
a ramp is going to have to be real beefy and will take a lot of work
and materials. If you do go that route, I'd set up some scaffolding
in such a way that you could lift it in stages. But that would be a
last resort.

"HeyBub" wrote in message
...
wrote:
I have a balcony on the back of my house. It is outside the master
bedroom, with a sliding door leading out to it. The sliding door
needs to be replaced. My problem is getting it to the second floor.
Because of turns, it can't really go through the house, at least not
without first being dismantled. If I dismantle it first, I can't be
sure it won't leak later.

The door is extremely heavy. The balcony is about 9-10 feet off the
ground. The area is not accessible for a boom truck. The skidsteers/
forklifts can't go higher than 8 feet.

My thoughts we 1) get long 2 x 12s and ease the door up them on an
angle using ropes, 2) make a set of satirs to walk it up (perhaps
ridiculously labor intensive) 3) get really strong giants to carry it
up

Does anyone have any better ideas?

Don't lift - hoist.

Block and tackle from the roof.
Sure, penetrate the roof to mount a block and tackle for a one-time job. #1,
the long planks, is the way to go. Use a block'n'tackle or come-along
attached to a padded 4x4 propped up high across the INSIDE of the doorframe,
plus several guys pushing from below to take the strain off the winching
device. Standard warnings about proper rigging and spotters apply. You never
want humans under a non-belayed load. Most of the weight will be caught by
the ramp boards, but if the thing got loose and slid down the boards, it
could still cause serious injury. If you can tempararily take down a section
of deck railing, that would simplify matters. Once the top half of the new
door is above deck level, just lay it down on the deck and slide it, then
stand it up.

aem sends...

On Apr 23, 9:08�pm, marson wrote:
On Apr 23, 8:52 pm, "Edwin Pawlowski" wrote:

wrote in message

The door is extremely heavy. *The balcony is about 9-10 feet off the
ground. *The area is not accessible for a boom truck. *The skidsteers/
forklifts can't go higher than 8 feet.

Sure they can. Just put a platform on the forks to raise the door by the 1
or 2 feet you need. *Lift up and slide the door off.

I would look at taking the doors (glass) out. *Usually you can, though
you might want to call the company who is making your unit. *Then the
frame should be easy to lift up on the outside, and surely you have
the room to take the doors up inside the house. Otherwise, I think the
forklift idea is the best. *Anything you build, be it off the roof or
a ramp is going to have to be real beefy and will take a lot of work
and materials. *If you do go that route, I'd set up some scaffolding
in such a way that you could lift it in stages. *But that would be a
last resort.

I already have the door. I am planning to dismantle it and take the
glass out, but the frame itself is heavy as well, and would have
nothing to support it as I bring it up outside.

As for the suggestion to hoist from the roof, the roof is a mansard,
and its peak sits much higher than the balcony. I don't know if I'd
be able to get up there to do this comfortably.

I was at Menard's the other day and saw another 9 foot door they were
clearing out. I was at $400, plus delivery and a $20 second floor
charge. I was going to buy it, and use the original door for the
downstairs deck door. I will eventually need to replace that, so I
figured now might be the time to widen that doorway. All together, it
would have been about another $500, with a little lless carpentry
upstairs because the Menard's door was a closer to perfect fit. The
deck door would have been a lot more carpentry, with widening the door
and all, but it was a future project. It would have been an
acceptable tradeoff for me, at least in my mind at the time.
Unfortunately, the delivery guy at Menard's said it couldn't be done
with their forklift, since they can't go over 8 feet up.

So, I am at square one. A couple good suggestions here, but
unfortunatley nothing I can apply yet. I appreciate the efforts, and
would welcome additional suggestions, or even modifications of those
provided. Thanks again.

"aemeijers" wrote in message
Sure, penetrate the roof to mount a block and tackle for a one-time job.

Of course not. You run cables over the roof and tie off to either a light
pole at the street, or the bumper of a pickup truck. Hey, if you do that,
you don't need the block and tackle, just a driver for the truck. And a six
pack, of course.

wrote:
(snip)
I already have the door. I am planning to dismantle it and take the
glass out, but the frame itself is heavy as well, and would have
nothing to support it as I bring it up outside.


Have you considered renting a drywall lift? You'll want to check the
load and height specs of the models available at your local rental
center, but 150lbs and 10' lifting height shouldn't be a problem.

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in
t:


"aemeijers" wrote in message
Sure, penetrate the roof to mount a block and tackle for a one-time
job.

Of course not. You run cables over the roof and tie off to either a
light pole at the street, or the bumper of a pickup truck. Hey, if
you do that, you don't need the block and tackle, just a driver for
the truck. And a six pack, of course.





Ahhh, another fan of the Red Green Show. Duct Tape - Handyman's best
friend.

On Apr 23, 10:48 pm, Mike Paulsen wrote:
wrote:

(snip)

I already have the door. I am planning to dismantle it and take the
glass out, but the frame itself is heavy as well, and would have
nothing to support it as I bring it up outside.

Have you considered renting a drywall lift? You'll want to check the
load and height specs of the models available at your local rental
center, but 150lbs and 10' lifting height shouldn't be a problem.

Just a guess here, but I wouldn't think of 150 lbs as "extremely"
heavy. My 9' door was around 400 lbs, and a drywall lift wouldn't do
much good with that.

To the OP - If your door is a sliding door, you should be able to
take out the movable panel, and screw a couple of boards across the
inside of the frame to keep it square. That should take at least a
third of the weight off the unit. If you can get the weight down
under about 350 lbs, it shouldn't be "that bad" for hauling up with a
ropes, or straps.

JK

Big_Jake wrote:
On Apr 23, 10:48 pm, Mike Paulsen wrote:
wrote:

(snip)

I already have the door. I am planning to dismantle it and take the
glass out, but the frame itself is heavy as well, and would have
nothing to support it as I bring it up outside.
Have you considered renting a drywall lift? You'll want to check the
load and height specs of the models available at your local rental
center, but 150lbs and 10' lifting height shouldn't be a problem.

Just a guess here, but I wouldn't think of 150 lbs as "extremely"
heavy. My 9' door was around 400 lbs, and a drywall lift wouldn't do
much good with that.

The OP characterized the complete assembly as extremely heavy. In his
follow-up, quoted above, he indicates that he's willing to dismantle and
lift just the frame. Do you think the frame would be much more than 150lbs?

On Apr 24, 12:22 am, Mike Paulsen wrote:
Big_Jake wrote:
On Apr 23, 10:48 pm, Mike Paulsen wrote:
wrote:

(snip)

I already have the door. I am planning to dismantle it and take the
glass out, but the frame itself is heavy as well, and would have
nothing to support it as I bring it up outside.
Have you considered renting a drywall lift? You'll want to check the
load and height specs of the models available at your local rental
center, but 150lbs and 10' lifting height shouldn't be a problem.

Just a guess here, but I wouldn't think of 150 lbs as "extremely"
heavy. My 9' door was around 400 lbs, and a drywall lift wouldn't do
much good with that.

The OP characterized the complete assembly as extremely heavy. In his
follow-up, quoted above, he indicates that he's willing to dismantle and
lift just the frame. Do you think the frame would be much more than 150lbs?

The frame alone just can't be that heavy--20 pounds tops?. Like
someone said, just screw some boards to it to keep it true. Trying to
lift it whole with some jury rigged setup is more likely to damage the
thing anyway.

aemeijers wrote:
"HeyBub" wrote in message
...

Does anyone have any better ideas?

Don't lift - hoist.

Block and tackle from the roof.
Sure, penetrate the roof to mount a block and tackle for a one-time
job.

Nobody said anything about penetrating the roof! The paucity of your
imagination prevented you from seeing the bigger picture.

The only way to achieve a mechanical advantage from BELOW the item is by the
use of levers (assuming you're not using hydraulics or other forms of
jacks). If operating from above, you can use pulleys and achieve a
MONSTOROUS mechanical advantage. A small child plucking a string can easily
lift several tons.

By attacking the problem from above, you reduce the problem from finding a
sufficiently long lever (bow to Archimedes) to one of attaching a block. The
attachement doesn't have to be the roof, a suitably tall A-frame would work
as well.


#1, the long planks, is the way to go. Use a block'n'tackle or
come-along attached to a padded 4x4 propped up high across the INSIDE
of the doorframe, plus several guys pushing from below to take the
strain off the winching device.

That'll work. Rip the door frame right outa the house so the doors can be
attached to the frame on the lawn.

Standard warnings about proper
rigging and spotters apply. You never want humans under a non-belayed
load. Most of the weight will be caught by the ramp boards, but if
the thing got loose and slid down the boards, it could still cause
serious injury. If you can tempararily take down a section of deck
railing, that would simplify matters. Once the top half of the new
door is above deck level, just lay it down on the deck and slide it,
then stand it up.
aem sends...

Donate a couple bucks to your local Fire company and they have the knowhow
and the toys.

BetsyB



"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
t...

"aemeijers" wrote in message
Sure, penetrate the roof to mount a block and tackle for a one-time job.

Of course not. You run cables over the roof and tie off to either a light
pole at the street, or the bumper of a pickup truck. Hey, if you do that,
you don't need the block and tackle, just a driver for the truck. And a
six pack, of course.

On 23 Apr 2007 18:00:07 -0700, "
wrote:

Please let me know when you do this, so I can film it. I want to send
it in to Funniest Home Videos.

My thoughts we 1) get long 2 x 12s and ease the door up them on an
angle using ropes,

If you do this, attach some rungs between the 2x212s to keep them a
fixed distance, and triangulate part of it so it doesn't all fold upp.

Other people have tried things liek this that make it FHV, so be sure
to let me know when you are doing it. I hear they pay for some of the
videos they show.

Have a couple people review your plans once they have developed. Tell
them to bring their cameras too.

2) make a set of satirs to walk it up (perhaps
ridiculously labor intensive) 3) get really strong giants to carry it
up

Does anyone have any better ideas?

On Tue, 24 Apr 2007 23:18:34 -0400, mm
wrote:

On 23 Apr 2007 18:00:07 -0700, "
wrote:

Please let me know when you do this, so I can film it. I want to send
it in to Funniest Home Videos.

My thoughts we 1) get long 2 x 12s and ease the door up them on an
angle using ropes,

If you do this, attach some rungs between the 2x212s to keep them a
fixed distance, and triangulate part of it so it doesn't all fold upp.

Other people have tried things liek this that make it FHV, so be sure
to let me know when you are doing it. I hear they pay for some of the
videos they show.

Have a couple people review your plans once they have developed. Tell
them to bring their cameras too.

2) make a set of satirs to walk it up (perhaps
ridiculously labor intensive) 3) get really strong giants to carry it
up

Does anyone have any better ideas?



Gin pole.

http://www.tpub.com/content/construc.../14251_175.htm