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Default Replacing a Circuit Board on Bryant 395BAW on my own

So I have been having trouble with my Bryant furnace (model 395BAW).
It seems pretty old but I don't know how old. A couple years ago I
believe the circuit board was replaced because we were getting air
flow through the blower and the pilot was lighting, but no heat.
Burners would fire intermittently and then less and less often.

The problem is occurring again. Instead of bringing someone in I want
to do it myself. I found the part online and am thinking to order it
(apparently it's not really something that can be picked up at a
store). Can anyone offer any advice on installing the part? How-to
websites or other insight? Or other solutions to the problem?

Thanks
SZ

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Default Replacing a Circuit Board on Bryant 395BAW on my own

On Apr 19, 11:58 am, wrote:
So I have been having trouble with my Bryant furnace (model 395BAW).
It seems pretty old but I don't know how old. A couple years ago I
believe the circuit board was replaced because we were getting air
flow through the blower and the pilot was lighting, but no heat.
Burners would fire intermittently and then less and less often.

The problem is occurring again. Instead of bringing someone in I want
to do it myself. I found the part online and am thinking to order it
(apparently it's not really something that can be picked up at a
store). Can anyone offer any advice on installing the part? How-to
websites or other insight? Or other solutions to the problem?

Thanks


If you get the part from arnoldservice.com they can likely offer
instructins as well. Try repairclinic.com, too. Installtion ought to
be quire easy. Good luck.

Joe




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Default Replacing a Circuit Board on Bryant 395BAW on my own

http://arnoldservice.com/Troubleshoo...g_Problems.htm

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Default Replacing a Circuit Board on Bryant 395BAW on my own

On Apr 19, 12:58 pm, wrote:
So I have been having trouble with my Bryant furnace (model 395BAW).
It seems pretty old but I don't know how old. A couple years ago I
believe the circuit board was replaced because we were getting air
flow through the blower and the pilot was lighting, but no heat.
Burners would fire intermittently and then less and less often.

The problem is occurring again. Instead of bringing someone in I want
to do it myself. I found the part online and am thinking to order it
(apparently it's not really something that can be picked up at a
store). Can anyone offer any advice on installing the part? How-to
websites or other insight? Or other solutions to the problem?

Thanks
SZ


sounds like it could be a thermal couple going bad or the pilot flame
not flowing over it.

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Default Replacing a Circuit Board on Bryant 395BAW on my own

On Apr 19, 11:58 am, wrote:
So I have been having trouble with my Bryant furnace (model 395BAW).
It seems pretty old but I don't know how old. A couple years ago I
believe the circuit board was replaced because we were getting air
flow through the blower and the pilot was lighting, but no heat.
Burners would fire intermittently and then less and less often.

The problem is occurring again. Instead of bringing someone in I want
to do it myself. I found the part online and am thinking to order it
(apparently it's not really something that can be picked up at a
store). Can anyone offer any advice on installing the part? How-to
websites or other insight? Or other solutions to the problem?

Thanks
SZ


I recently also had some problems with my American Standard unit. Was
told the main logic board was bad. They wanted $500.00 for the board.

Looked at it myself. Cold solder joint where the 12/5 volt makes the
connection. At least I think it was the 12/5 volt connector. It was
a real easy fix with a soldering iron.

It's worth checking. Solid state components don't go bad very often.



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Default Replacing a Circuit Board on Bryant 395BAW on my own

Thanks everybody for your replies. I wasn't brave enough to replace
the circuit board on my own and my neighbor was able refer a reliable
serviceman. He did some tests. Namely, he took out the high-limit
sensor and used a wire to bypass it. It turned out that was the
problem. The faceplate on the sensor was a slightly warped so it was
bent to the side and touching the side of the heat exchanger (or at
least too close to it), and thereby continually triggering the
sensor.

The repair guy just re-installed the same high-limit sensor but
without screwing it in so tightly, and so it wouldn't be . This was a
temporary fix until I can order a new sensor and replace it. (I'm not
sure if I explained this exactly correct, but it's fixed and I'm
happy.) Thanks again everyone!

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