Hoping someone with real experience installing these can help: we're
about to install a CEC Powerstar tankless water heater in a lav
cabinet under the sink. Unit requires a 240v 40a circuit which we're
ready to run over to the lav.

The manual states:
"When the Powerstream Pro is not within sight of the electrical
circuit breakers, a circuit breaker lockout or
additional local means of disconnection for all non-grounded
conductors must be provided that is within
sight of the appliance. (Ref NEC 422.31.)"

So, in the field, what do you guys generally do here? We don't really
want to add another (possibly expensive) box of some sort under the
cabinet; do you have to add some kind of lockable disconnect box at
the panel? Our Instahot kitchen sink unit has no such disconnect but
there it's a 120v wall-plug unit which I presume fills the bill.

Should we/could we instead simply add a 240v pigtail to this unit, and
then install an appropriate wall receptacle and therefore fulfill this
requirement?

tia

A plug and outlet serves as a disconnect. In this case, some means of
locking the breaker in the off position, or locking the panel door will
suffice, if you don't want a disconnect under the sink



" wrote in message
oups.com...
Hoping someone with real experience installing these can help: we're
about to install a CEC Powerstar tankless water heater in a lav
cabinet under the sink. Unit requires a 240v 40a circuit which we're
ready to run over to the lav.

The manual states:
"When the Powerstream Pro is not within sight of the electrical
circuit breakers, a circuit breaker lockout or
additional local means of disconnection for all non-grounded
conductors must be provided that is within
sight of the appliance. (Ref NEC 422.31.)"

So, in the field, what do you guys generally do here? We don't really
want to add another (possibly expensive) box of some sort under the
cabinet; do you have to add some kind of lockable disconnect box at
the panel? Our Instahot kitchen sink unit has no such disconnect but
there it's a 120v wall-plug unit which I presume fills the bill.

Should we/could we instead simply add a 240v pigtail to this unit, and
then install an appropriate wall receptacle and therefore fulfill this
requirement?

tia

" wrote in message

Should we/could we instead simply add a 240v pigtail to this unit, and
then install an appropriate wall receptacle and therefore fulfill this
requirement?

That works. Also makes for easier service if it has to be removed.

I think if you have room for a forty amp outlet and cord set, it would take
less room to install a small two circuit, breaker panel



"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
...

" wrote in message

Should we/could we instead simply add a 240v pigtail to this unit, and
then install an appropriate wall receptacle and therefore fulfill this
requirement?

That works. Also makes for easier service if it has to be removed.

You could use the pigtail and outlet, OR an a/c disconnect. They're only
about $6

--
Steve Barker

" wrote in message
oups.com...

Should we/could we instead simply add a 240v pigtail to this unit, and
then install an appropriate wall receptacle and therefore fulfill this
requirement?

tia

On Feb 10, 11:55 pm, "Steve Barker"
wrote:
You could use the pigtail and outlet, OR an a/c disconnect. They're only
about $6

--
Steve Barker

" wrote in message

oups.com...





Should we/could we instead simply add a 240v pigtail to this unit, and
then install an appropriate wall receptacle and therefore fulfill this
requirement?

tia- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I'd put one of the simple pull type disconnect boxes near it, similar
to the ones with fuses that are used on outside AC units, but without
fuses.

On 10 Feb 2007 16:52:42 -0800, "
wrote:

Hoping someone with real experience installing these can help: we're
about to install a CEC Powerstar tankless water heater in a lav
cabinet under the sink. Unit requires a 240v 40a circuit which we're
ready to run over to the lav.

The manual states:
"When the Powerstream Pro is not within sight of the electrical
circuit breakers, a circuit breaker lockout or
additional local means of disconnection for all non-grounded
conductors must be provided that is within
sight of the appliance. (Ref NEC 422.31.)"

So, in the field, what do you guys generally do here? We don't really
want to add another (possibly expensive) box of some sort under the
cabinet; do you have to add some kind of lockable disconnect box at
the panel? Our Instahot kitchen sink unit has no such disconnect but
there it's a 120v wall-plug unit which I presume fills the bill.

Should we/could we instead simply add a 240v pigtail to this unit, and
then install an appropriate wall receptacle and therefore fulfill this
requirement?

tia


Cord and plug sounds like a nice disconnect. I suggest you contact
your local code enforcement people, they are their to help you with
questions.

tom @ www.NoCostAds.com