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Default Possible Fixes for Hardwood Floor Hump.

I have a 90 year old home, which as seen plenty of settling. Steel
peirs have been put in place twice and the house is no longer settling
and remains level in all areas but one. There is a ridge in the floor
which doesn't seem too large, but when I put a laser level on it's
peak, the line hit the wall at about 5 inches. Yikes! This ridge is
due to a cinder-block wall that has the basement on one side and
crawlspace on the other and runs the width of the house. It doesn't
seem to have taken part in the settling process. If you go about a
meter to either side of the peak, the floor is perfectly level. I'd
like to fix this problem without replacing the floor. Any suggestions?

FYI...First time home buyer and new to all of this... I'm in trouble
aren't I?

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Default Possible Fixes for Hardwood Floor Hump.

On 27 Jan 2007 13:36:50 -0800, "Shelfish" wrote:

I have a 90 year old home, which as seen plenty of settling. Steel
peirs have been put in place twice and the house is no longer settling
and remains level in all areas but one. There is a ridge in the floor
which doesn't seem too large, but when I put a laser level on it's
peak, the line hit the wall at about 5 inches. Yikes! This ridge is
due to a cinder-block wall that has the basement on one side and
crawlspace on the other and runs the width of the house. It doesn't
seem to have taken part in the settling process. If you go about a
meter to either side of the peak, the floor is perfectly level. I'd
like to fix this problem without replacing the floor. Any suggestions?


That doesn't make any sense. If the floor is perfectly level
3 feet on either side of the hump, then 5" out of plane
at the hump can't reasonably be "not that large".

In any case, what you do is support the floor(s) with something else,
pulverize the top row of blocks, and shove 3" high cap-blocks in
where they used to be. Of course, when you
go to do that, you'll probably find that there's a 30' sill beam
there that has posts mortised to it that are holding up
your second floor, or something.




FYI...First time home buyer and new to all of this... I'm in trouble
aren't I?


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Default Possible Fixes for Hardwood Floor Hump.

Don't forget to deduct the distance between the laser and the floor at the
hump from the 5" measurement where the beam hits the wall. The laser must be
2" or more from the lowest position you can position it on the floor.

"Goedjn" wrote in message
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On 27 Jan 2007 13:36:50 -0800, "Shelfish" wrote:

I have a 90 year old home, which as seen plenty of settling. Steel
peirs have been put in place twice and the house is no longer settling
and remains level in all areas but one. There is a ridge in the floor
which doesn't seem too large, but when I put a laser level on it's
peak, the line hit the wall at about 5 inches. Yikes! This ridge is
due to a cinder-block wall that has the basement on one side and
crawlspace on the other and runs the width of the house. It doesn't
seem to have taken part in the settling process. If you go about a
meter to either side of the peak, the floor is perfectly level. I'd
like to fix this problem without replacing the floor. Any suggestions?


That doesn't make any sense. If the floor is perfectly level
3 feet on either side of the hump, then 5" out of plane
at the hump can't reasonably be "not that large".

In any case, what you do is support the floor(s) with something else,
pulverize the top row of blocks, and shove 3" high cap-blocks in
where they used to be. Of course, when you
go to do that, you'll probably find that there's a 30' sill beam
there that has posts mortised to it that are holding up
your second floor, or something.




FYI...First time home buyer and new to all of this... I'm in trouble
aren't I?




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Default Possible Fixes for Hardwood Floor Hump.



On Jan 27, 4:36 pm, "Shelfish" wrote:
I have a 90 year old home, which as seen plenty of settling. Steel
peirs have been put in place twice and the house is no longer settling
and remains level in all areas but one. There is a ridge in the floor
which doesn't seem too large, but when I put a laser level on it's
peak, the line hit the wall at about 5 inches. Yikes! This ridge is
due to a cinder-block wall that has the basement on one side and
crawlspace on the other and runs the width of the house. It doesn't
seem to have taken part in the settling process. If you go about a
meter to either side of the peak, the floor is perfectly level. I'd
like to fix this problem without replacing the floor. Any suggestions?

FYI...First time home buyer and new to all of this... I'm in trouble
aren't I?


Goedjn suggests a reasonable approach - based on your description.
If you were to tell us more about the framing, we might be able to say
more.
TB

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Default Possible Fixes for Hardwood Floor Hump.



On Jan 27, 3:36 pm, "Shelfish" wrote:
I have a 90 year old home, which as seen plenty of settling. Steel
peirs have been put in place twice and the house is no longer settling
and remains level in all areas but one. There is a ridge in the floor
which doesn't seem too large, but when I put a laser level on it's
peak, the line hit the wall at about 5 inches. Yikes! This ridge is
due to a cinder-block wall that has the basement on one side and
crawlspace on the other and runs the width of the house. It doesn't
seem to have taken part in the settling process. If you go about a
meter to either side of the peak, the floor is perfectly level. I'd
like to fix this problem without replacing the floor. Any suggestions?

FYI...First time home buyer and new to all of this... I'm in trouble
aren't I?



My parents have a home with a similar problem .

The edge they have is where a bathroom addition joins the original
house.

The floor slopes from that high point slightly in each direction.

If its not a problem for walking on you might just learn to live with
it .

Any solution probably means jacking up the floor joists , or lowering
that foundation wall.

Neither is particularly easy or cheap to do .

I suppose you could pull up the floor and shim the floor joists
( sistered joist ?) and then relay the floor .

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