Good idea on posting to alt.home.repair also.

So that outdoor inlet that I linked to is $53. I saw some L14-30
flanged inlets on ebay for $12 plus $4 s&h
(http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...=110079121868). The
trouble I am having is finding a outdoor 3R or better rated box that
would accept a flanged inlet. Does anyone have any suggestions here.
If I can find such a box for even $20, it would still be a savings over
the $53 Gen-Tran.

Also, are my wiring assumptions correct? Common neutral and each
positive leg to each duplex outlet?

Thanks in advance,
Chris

Speedy Jim wrote:
wrote:

satellite_chris wrote:

I am planning to install a power inlet box on the side of my house to
accept an L14-30 connection from my generator's twist lock receptacle
L14-30R. Here is the particular outdoor enclosure that I plan to use:
http://www.gen-tran.com/eshop/10Expa...ductCode=14302

From there I would run a small piece of conduit from that input box to
a new electrical box on the opposite side of the wall in the house. I
plan to wire a separate duplex outlet to each leg of the 220 with all
the neutrals connected to the common neutral. This set of outlets
would obviously be in no way connected to the rest of the house's
wiring system and I would use a different color of outlets. Would this
be up to code?

The whole concept here is to have a convenient way of bringing the
generator power in to the house without having to leave any doors or
windows open to allow an extension cord in. These 4 outlets would be
in a convenient location in the house where I can plug in my critical
electrical items.

Thanks in advance.

Chris


I'm not an electrician and don't know whether you idea would be up to
code or not. One question I would have is what you are going to do with
the ground wire.

What you are planning sounds like a heck of a lot of work and it won't
be all that useful when you get done. I wonder if there's some way that
you could (legally) connect your generator directly to your service
entrance box via some sort of inexpensive, manual transfer switch?



The gennie absolutely must be grounded (to earth) and the
Neutral bonded to Ground. Rather than sticking a pipe in the
gound, consider running an equipment ground to the grounding
point used by the house service entrance.

But your idea to run a conduit into the house for dedicated
receptacles sounds good, since it won't in any way be connected
to the incoming power line.

"inexpensive, manual transfer switch?" They are neither
inexpensive nor simple. Done properly means a lot of
tricky work.

For more opinions on this setup, post over to: alt.home.repair

Jim