I want to put a new exterior door from my hall to an unheated enclosed
porch. I want to get a double pane glass, but I don't want to replace the
jam with an opening width of exactly 30 inches. The door's width on the
outside measures 29.75 inches and inside measures a little less than 30
inches. Thus, the door's edge is beveled. The existing door is 1 and 3/8's
inches thick. A new door would be 1.75 inches.

The door has to be narrower than the jam width. Should I have the door's
outside edge beveled like the old one or should I have the door trimmed on
both sides about a quarter of an inch total?

consider enlarging the opening to at least 36" for easier handicap
access and being able to full sized appliances and furniture for the
home. consider custom ordering a door with good weatherstripping or
magnetic gasket. remember door glass is required to be tempered glass
for safety; although expensive it lasts for years without hazing and
cleans with windex/ammonia to a sparkling clean glass view. price check
this item with your local auto glass place it usually is special
ordered for the size you need. acrylic/plexiglas/plastic alternatives
will generally become scratched or self-hazy depending on family/pet
use. lexan/polycarbonate with scratch resistant coating is an
unbreakable alternative, but requires special cleaning/polishing.
depending on door weight and wind speed, add a new fully adjustable
door closer.
trimming a door may create windy heat losses that are usually not
present with a factory made door with frame and weatherstripping.

New & Improved - N/F John wrote:
I want to put a new exterior door from my hall to an unheated enclosed
porch. I want to get a double pane glass, but I don't want to replace the
jam with an opening width of exactly 30 inches. The door's width on the
outside measures 29.75 inches and inside measures a little less than 30
inches. Thus, the door's edge is beveled. The existing door is 1 and 3/8's
inches thick. A new door would be 1.75 inches.

The door has to be narrower than the jam width. Should I have the door's
outside edge beveled like the old one or should I have the door trimmed on
both sides about a quarter of an inch total?

Residential doors tend to be 1 3/8" thick, commercial doors tend
to be 1 3/4". If the jamb has removable door stop, this can work
out. If it is a rabetted jamb, as many exterior jambs are, this
is a major set back.

Doors should be beveled on both the hinge and strike sides. 1 3/8
doors are more forgiving about bevel. An old carpenter adage
sizes the gaps around the door as a dime on top and a nickel on
the sides. The bevel and cut are easiest done with a Rockwell
porta plane, but these are too expensive for one door. Making the
hinge mortises line up with the jamb will be the hardest part.
The mortises in the jamb will have to be set deeper if you go to
the 1 3/4 door and the existing screw holes will need to be
filled. The hinges may need to be replace with larger hinges or
adding an additional hinge if the door weight is very different.
The strike will have to be re-set also. If this is your first
attempt, it will certainly be easier to replace the door and jamb
with a prehung unit or stay with the same thickness door.

Hope this helps make some decisions.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
A live Singing Valentine quartet,
a sophisticated and elegant way to say I LOVE YOU!
(local)
http://www.singingvalentines.com/ (national)


"New & Improved - N/F John" wrote in
message news:vNSph.47$R76.31@trnddc05...
I want to put a new exterior door from my hall to an unheated
enclosed
porch. I want to get a double pane glass, but I don't want to
replace the
jam with an opening width of exactly 30 inches. The door's
width on the
outside measures 29.75 inches and inside measures a little less
than 30
inches. Thus, the door's edge is beveled. The existing door is
1 and 3/8's
inches thick. A new door would be 1.75 inches.

The door has to be narrower than the jam width. Should I have
the door's
outside edge beveled like the old one or should I have the door
trimmed on
both sides about a quarter of an inch total?

"DanG" wrote in message
...
| Residential doors tend to be 1 3/8" thick, commercial doors tend
| to be 1 3/4". |

actually
exterior doors (residential or commercial) are 1 3/4" thick
interior doors (residential or commercial) are 1 3/8"thick




| Doors should be beveled on both the hinge and strike sides. 1 3/8
| doors are more forgiving about bevel. An old carpenter adage
| sizes the gaps around the door as a dime on top and a nickel on
| the sides.



The bevel and cut are easiest done with a Rockwell
| porta plane, but these are too expensive for one door.


wouldn't any brand planer work?
or maybe order the door beveled already (instead of square).




Making the
| hinge mortises line up with the jamb will be the hardest part.
| The mortises in the jamb will have to be set deeper if you go to
| the 1 3/4 door and the existing screw holes will need to be
| filled. The hinges may need to be replace with larger hinges or
| adding an additional hinge if the door weight is very different.
| The strike will have to be re-set also. If this is your first
| attempt, it will certainly be easier to replace the door and jamb
| with a prehung unit or stay with the same thickness door.
|
| Hope this helps make some decisions.
|
| ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
| DanG
| A live Singing Valentine quartet,
| a sophisticated and elegant way to say I LOVE YOU!
| (local)
| http://www.singingvalentines.com/ (national)
|
|
| "New & Improved - N/F John" wrote in
| message news:vNSph.47$R76.31@trnddc05...
| I want to put a new exterior door from my hall to an unheated
| enclosed
| porch. I want to get a double pane glass, but I don't want to
| replace the
| jam with an opening width of exactly 30 inches. The door's
| width on the
| outside measures 29.75 inches and inside measures a little less
| than 30
| inches. Thus, the door's edge is beveled. The existing door is
| 1 and 3/8's
| inches thick. A new door would be 1.75 inches.
|
| The door has to be narrower than the jam width. Should I have
| the door's
| outside edge beveled like the old one or should I have the door
| trimmed on
| both sides about a quarter of an inch total?
|
|
|
|

I would love to have you show me an 1 3/8 interior commercial door
on a quality job - hospital, school, church, airport, high rise
office, etc. I can, however, show you several 1 3/8 residential
exterior doors.

I think the issue still has to do with what the OP was trying to
do. My statements do not change.
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
DanG
A live Singing Valentine quartet,
a sophisticated and elegant way to say I LOVE YOU!
(local)
http://www.singingvalentines.com/ (national)


"kitchens etc." kitchen_cabinets@work wrote in message
...

"DanG" wrote in message
...
| Residential doors tend to be 1 3/8" thick, commercial doors
tend
| to be 1 3/4". |

actually
exterior doors (residential or commercial) are 1 3/4" thick
interior doors (residential or commercial) are 1 3/8"thick




| Doors should be beveled on both the hinge and strike sides. 1
3/8
| doors are more forgiving about bevel. An old carpenter adage
| sizes the gaps around the door as a dime on top and a nickel
on
| the sides.



The bevel and cut are easiest done with a Rockwell
| porta plane, but these are too expensive for one door.


wouldn't any brand planer work?
or maybe order the door beveled already (instead of square).




Making the
| hinge mortises line up with the jamb will be the hardest part.
| The mortises in the jamb will have to be set deeper if you go
to
| the 1 3/4 door and the existing screw holes will need to be
| filled. The hinges may need to be replace with larger hinges
or
| adding an additional hinge if the door weight is very
different.
| The strike will have to be re-set also. If this is your first
| attempt, it will certainly be easier to replace the door and
jamb
| with a prehung unit or stay with the same thickness door.
|
| Hope this helps make some decisions.
|
| ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
| DanG
| A live Singing Valentine quartet,
| a sophisticated and elegant way to say I LOVE YOU!
| (local)
| http://www.singingvalentines.com/ (national)
|
|
| "New & Improved - N/F John" wrote in
| message news:vNSph.47$R76.31@trnddc05...
| I want to put a new exterior door from my hall to an unheated
| enclosed
| porch. I want to get a double pane glass, but I don't want
to
| replace the
| jam with an opening width of exactly 30 inches. The door's
| width on the
| outside measures 29.75 inches and inside measures a little
less
| than 30
| inches. Thus, the door's edge is beveled. The existing
door is
| 1 and 3/8's
| inches thick. A new door would be 1.75 inches.
|
| The door has to be narrower than the jam width. Should I
have
| the door's
| outside edge beveled like the old one or should I have the
door
| trimmed on
| both sides about a quarter of an inch total?
|
|
|
|

"New & Improved - N/F John" wrote in message
news:vNSph.47$R76.31@trnddc05...
I want to put a new exterior door from my hall to an unheated enclosed
porch. I want to get a double pane glass, but I don't want to replace the
jam with an opening width of exactly 30 inches. The door's width on the
outside measures 29.75 inches and inside measures a little less than 30
inches. Thus, the door's edge is beveled. The existing door is 1 and
3/8's
inches thick. A new door would be 1.75 inches.

The door has to be narrower than the jam width. Should I have the door's
outside edge beveled like the old one or should I have the door trimmed on
both sides about a quarter of an inch total?

Hanging doors is becoming a lost art with the pre-hung from the factory
models made today. Finish carpenters would normally do the doors of a
house and they would do the hinge layout, plane the edges to fit, etc.

Start here http://www.jlconline.com/public/arti...8/9908hang.pdf