[Tonk]

Dear NG,

This is my first post to this group and I'm sure not the last. What a
gold mine of information here. I have some tools, but I'm not very
good with them! I've layed lots of tile and hardwood floor, and most
jobs have looked pretty good. But, I know why I'm a biologist and not
a finish carpenter! My first question for the group - is there any way
to exchange pictures with other members or upload to a server like you
can do on Yahoo groups? The second thing I should probably mention is
I don't know a lot of the terminology and slang, so please be patient
if I ask a lot of questions. Finally, please let me know if there is a
more appropriate place to post this message.

Here's my project. I'm installing some of those precut (like 30 or 36"
tall by 5' long) finished bead boards that you can get at Lowes in a
hallway. I have an outside corner to deal with. I found a piece of
trim with a lip on it the thickness of the bead board that will fit
nicely on top of the bead board. As for the corner, I realized that if
I run the board clear to the end of the wall and put an outside corner
trim over it, then I'm in trouble with the top trim. There would be no
way to get the top trim over the corner trim, as the corner trim sits
on top of the board making it impossible for the top trim with a 3/16"
lip to cover what now is nearly 1/2" projection. Plan b was to install
the corner trim first and then butt the bead board up against the
corner trim, effectively eliminating the problem of different heights.
Can anyone suggest other ideas?

Tonk

[DerbyDad03]

Could you install the top trim first and the corner bead last? The top
of the corner bead would touch the bottom of the top trim. If the top
trim is shaped such that the top of the corner bead is exposed, sand a
bevel or roudover on the top of the corner bead so it ends up as the
same thickness as the bottom of the top trim.

And remember: caulk is our friend! If you are going to be painting the
bead board, filling any gaps with paintable caulk will really improve
the look and hide any imperfections.

Although you didn't ask, I'm assumng you are planning to miter the top
trim at 45 degress for a finished look at the inside and outside
corners.



Tonk wrote:
Dear NG,

This is my first post to this group and I'm sure not the last. What a
gold mine of information here. I have some tools, but I'm not very
good with them! I've layed lots of tile and hardwood floor, and most
jobs have looked pretty good. But, I know why I'm a biologist and not
a finish carpenter! My first question for the group - is there any way
to exchange pictures with other members or upload to a server like you
can do on Yahoo groups? The second thing I should probably mention is
I don't know a lot of the terminology and slang, so please be patient
if I ask a lot of questions. Finally, please let me know if there is a
more appropriate place to post this message.

Here's my project. I'm installing some of those precut (like 30 or 36"
tall by 5' long) finished bead boards that you can get at Lowes in a
hallway. I have an outside corner to deal with. I found a piece of
trim with a lip on it the thickness of the bead board that will fit
nicely on top of the bead board. As for the corner, I realized that if
I run the board clear to the end of the wall and put an outside corner
trim over it, then I'm in trouble with the top trim. There would be no
way to get the top trim over the corner trim, as the corner trim sits
on top of the board making it impossible for the top trim with a 3/16"
lip to cover what now is nearly 1/2" projection. Plan b was to install
the corner trim first and then butt the bead board up against the
corner trim, effectively eliminating the problem of different heights.
Can anyone suggest other ideas?

Tonk

[DerbyDad03]

Could you install the top trim first and the corner bead last? The top
of the corner bead would touch the bottom of the top trim. If the top
trim is shaped such that the top of the corner bead is exposed, sand a
bevel or roudover on the top of the corner bead so it ends up as the
same thickness as the bottom of the top trim.

And remember: caulk is our friend! If you are going to be painting the
bead board, filling any gaps with paintable caulk will really improve
the look and hide any imperfections.

Although you didn't ask, I'm assuming you are planning to miter the top
trim at 45 degress for a finished look at the inside and outside
corners.

Tonk wrote:
Dear NG,

This is my first post to this group and I'm sure not the last. What a
gold mine of information here. I have some tools, but I'm not very
good with them! I've layed lots of tile and hardwood floor, and most
jobs have looked pretty good. But, I know why I'm a biologist and not
a finish carpenter! My first question for the group - is there any way
to exchange pictures with other members or upload to a server like you
can do on Yahoo groups? The second thing I should probably mention is
I don't know a lot of the terminology and slang, so please be patient
if I ask a lot of questions. Finally, please let me know if there is a
more appropriate place to post this message.

Here's my project. I'm installing some of those precut (like 30 or 36"
tall by 5' long) finished bead boards that you can get at Lowes in a
hallway. I have an outside corner to deal with. I found a piece of
trim with a lip on it the thickness of the bead board that will fit
nicely on top of the bead board. As for the corner, I realized that if
I run the board clear to the end of the wall and put an outside corner
trim over it, then I'm in trouble with the top trim. There would be no
way to get the top trim over the corner trim, as the corner trim sits
on top of the board making it impossible for the top trim with a 3/16"
lip to cover what now is nearly 1/2" projection. Plan b was to install
the corner trim first and then butt the bead board up against the
corner trim, effectively eliminating the problem of different heights.
Can anyone suggest other ideas?

Tonk

[Evo]

Tonk wrote:

Dear NG,

This is my first post to this group and I'm sure not the last. What a
gold mine of information here. I have some tools, but I'm not very
good with them! I've layed lots of tile and hardwood floor, and most
jobs have looked pretty good. But, I know why I'm a biologist and not
a finish carpenter! My first question for the group - is there any way
to exchange pictures with other members or upload to a server like you
can do on Yahoo groups? The second thing I should probably mention is
I don't know a lot of the terminology and slang, so please be patient
if I ask a lot of questions. Finally, please let me know if there is a
more appropriate place to post this message.

Here's my project. I'm installing some of those precut (like 30 or 36"
tall by 5' long) finished bead boards that you can get at Lowes in a
hallway. I have an outside corner to deal with. I found a piece of
trim with a lip on it the thickness of the bead board that will fit
nicely on top of the bead board. As for the corner, I realized that if
I run the board clear to the end of the wall and put an outside corner
trim over it, then I'm in trouble with the top trim. There would be no
way to get the top trim over the corner trim, as the corner trim sits
on top of the board making it impossible for the top trim with a 3/16"
lip to cover what now is nearly 1/2" projection. Plan b was to install
the corner trim first and then butt the bead board up against the
corner trim, effectively eliminating the problem of different heights.
Can anyone suggest other ideas?

Tonk

Normally you use a chair rail molding as the top trim on beadboard and it's
fairly hefty and should cover corner bead. Always install top trim first
and cut corner to fit.

alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking this is where I post pictures

RV
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

[Evo]

DerbyDad03 wrote:

Could you install the top trim first and the corner bead last? The top
of the corner bead would touch the bottom of the top trim. If the top
trim is shaped such that the top of the corner bead is exposed, sand a
bevel or roudover on the top of the corner bead so it ends up as the
same thickness as the bottom of the top trim.

And remember: caulk is our friend! If you are going to be painting the
bead board, filling any gaps with paintable caulk will really improve
the look and hide any imperfections.

Although you didn't ask, I'm assumng you are planning to miter the top
trim at 45 degress for a finished look at the inside and outside
corners.

love to see that picture if he didnt miter LOL

--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

[David Nebenzahl]

Tonk spake thus:

... My first question for the group - is there any way
to exchange pictures with other members or upload to a server like you
can do on Yahoo groups?

Just find someplace on the web to upload the pix (a quick search will
locate many, many free sites), then post a link to the picture(s) in
your message here.


--
Just as McDonald's is where you go when you're hungry but don't really
care about the quality of your food, Wikipedia is where you go when
you're curious but don't really care about the quality of your knowledge.

- Matthew White's WikiWatch (http://users.erols.com/mwhite28/wikiwoo.htm)

[Andy Hill]

"Tonk" wrote:
Here's my project. I'm installing some of those precut (like 30 or 36"
tall by 5' long) finished bead boards that you can get at Lowes in a
hallway. I have an outside corner to deal with. I found a piece of
trim with a lip on it the thickness of the bead board that will fit
nicely on top of the bead board. As for the corner, I realized that if
I run the board clear to the end of the wall and put an outside corner
trim over it, then I'm in trouble with the top trim. There would be no
way to get the top trim over the corner trim, as the corner trim sits
on top of the board making it impossible for the top trim with a 3/16"
lip to cover what now is nearly 1/2" projection. Plan b was to install
the corner trim first and then butt the bead board up against the
corner trim, effectively eliminating the problem of different heights.
Can anyone suggest other ideas?

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the question, but why not use a router with a
roundover bit to handle the transition at the corner (routering the beadboard,
of course), and forget about the trim piece?

[Tonk]

Components that I have to work with: corner trim ~1/4" thick, bottom of
top trim ~1/4" thick, bead board ~1/4" thick.

Two install scenarios:
1st intall bead board all the way to the corner
2nd install the top trim
3rd install the corner trim

Problem: having installed the corner trim over the bead board, the
corner trim now projects ~1/2 from the wall, while the bottom of the
top trim is flush with the top of the bead board. Corner trim extends
~ 1/4" beyond the bottom of the top trim - UGLY.

Second install option:

1st install corner trim
2nd install bead board (flush against corner trim
3rd install top trim.

Since all parts are the same thickness, no problem.

And yes, I plan to mitre the corners for a finihsed look!

DerbyDad03 wrote:
Could you install the top trim first and the corner bead last? The top
of the corner bead would touch the bottom of the top trim. If the top
trim is shaped such that the top of the corner bead is exposed, sand a
bevel or roudover on the top of the corner bead so it ends up as the
same thickness as the bottom of the top trim.

And remember: caulk is our friend! If you are going to be painting the
bead board, filling any gaps with paintable caulk will really improve
the look and hide any imperfections.

Although you didn't ask, I'm assumng you are planning to miter the top
trim at 45 degress for a finished look at the inside and outside
corners.



Tonk wrote:
Dear NG,

This is my first post to this group and I'm sure not the last. What a
gold mine of information here. I have some tools, but I'm not very
good with them! I've layed lots of tile and hardwood floor, and most
jobs have looked pretty good. But, I know why I'm a biologist and not
a finish carpenter! My first question for the group - is there any way
to exchange pictures with other members or upload to a server like you
can do on Yahoo groups? The second thing I should probably mention is
I don't know a lot of the terminology and slang, so please be patient
if I ask a lot of questions. Finally, please let me know if there is a
more appropriate place to post this message.

Here's my project. I'm installing some of those precut (like 30 or 36"
tall by 5' long) finished bead boards that you can get at Lowes in a
hallway. I have an outside corner to deal with. I found a piece of
trim with a lip on it the thickness of the bead board that will fit
nicely on top of the bead board. As for the corner, I realized that if
I run the board clear to the end of the wall and put an outside corner
trim over it, then I'm in trouble with the top trim. There would be no
way to get the top trim over the corner trim, as the corner trim sits
on top of the board making it impossible for the top trim with a 3/16"
lip to cover what now is nearly 1/2" projection. Plan b was to install
the corner trim first and then butt the bead board up against the
corner trim, effectively eliminating the problem of different heights.
Can anyone suggest other ideas?

Tonk

[Tonk]

RV - thanks for the reply.

two follow-up questions.

I gather that you're suggesting that I install the corner trim over the
bead board? Is that standard? Also, the will project the corner trim
out the thickness of the bead board. That seems like that would make
it more difficult (if not impossible) to end up with a nice neat
joint/intersection with the bottom of the chair rail. All the chair
rail that I've seen is tapered (thick part on top) from 5/8 to 3/4 down
to 1/4 or so. With the tapered chair rail, how in the world do you
neatly tie the corner piece in?

Also, MSN is my ISP and apparently I do not have access to the USENET
newsgroups such as alt.binaries.pictures... Any other suggestions?

Mike

Mike
Evo wrote:
Tonk wrote:

Dear NG,

This is my first post to this group and I'm sure not the last. What a
gold mine of information here. I have some tools, but I'm not very
good with them! I've layed lots of tile and hardwood floor, and most
jobs have looked pretty good. But, I know why I'm a biologist and not
a finish carpenter! My first question for the group - is there any way
to exchange pictures with other members or upload to a server like you
can do on Yahoo groups? The second thing I should probably mention is
I don't know a lot of the terminology and slang, so please be patient
if I ask a lot of questions. Finally, please let me know if there is a
more appropriate place to post this message.

Here's my project. I'm installing some of those precut (like 30 or 36"
tall by 5' long) finished bead boards that you can get at Lowes in a
hallway. I have an outside corner to deal with. I found a piece of
trim with a lip on it the thickness of the bead board that will fit
nicely on top of the bead board. As for the corner, I realized that if
I run the board clear to the end of the wall and put an outside corner
trim over it, then I'm in trouble with the top trim. There would be no
way to get the top trim over the corner trim, as the corner trim sits
on top of the board making it impossible for the top trim with a 3/16"
lip to cover what now is nearly 1/2" projection. Plan b was to install
the corner trim first and then butt the bead board up against the
corner trim, effectively eliminating the problem of different heights.
Can anyone suggest other ideas?

Tonk

Normally you use a chair rail molding as the top trim on beadboard and it's
fairly hefty and should cover corner bead. Always install top trim first
and cut corner to fit.

alt.binaries.pictures.woodworking this is where I post pictures

RV
--
"You can lead them to LINUX
but you can't make them THINK"

[Tonk]

David - any chance you might give me an example or two of these web
sites that allow you to upload pics for free?

Thanks much!

Mike
David Nebenzahl wrote:
Tonk spake thus:

... My first question for the group - is there any way
to exchange pictures with other members or upload to a server like you
can do on Yahoo groups?

Just find someplace on the web to upload the pix (a quick search will
locate many, many free sites), then post a link to the picture(s) in
your message here.


--
Just as McDonald's is where you go when you're hungry but don't really
care about the quality of your food, Wikipedia is where you go when
you're curious but don't really care about the quality of your knowledge.

- Matthew White's WikiWatch (http://users.erols.com/mwhite28/wikiwoo.htm)

[Tonk]

Andy,

I really appreciate the time. I don't think you misunderstood. You're
only mistake is assuming that I know more than I do! LOL. I would
really appreciate it if you could elaborate on your response. I don't
own a router (yet!), so a roundover bit is foreign to me.

Mike
Andy Hill wrote:
"Tonk" wrote:
Here's my project. I'm installing some of those precut (like 30 or 36"
tall by 5' long) finished bead boards that you can get at Lowes in a
hallway. I have an outside corner to deal with. I found a piece of
trim with a lip on it the thickness of the bead board that will fit
nicely on top of the bead board. As for the corner, I realized that if
I run the board clear to the end of the wall and put an outside corner
trim over it, then I'm in trouble with the top trim. There would be no
way to get the top trim over the corner trim, as the corner trim sits
on top of the board making it impossible for the top trim with a 3/16"
lip to cover what now is nearly 1/2" projection. Plan b was to install
the corner trim first and then butt the bead board up against the
corner trim, effectively eliminating the problem of different heights.
Can anyone suggest other ideas?

Maybe I'm misunderstanding the question, but why not use a router with a
roundover bit to handle the transition at the corner (routering the beadboard,
of course), and forget about the trim piece?