I've stripped out the stock tire-iron. I've had some fold up.
Most of the stock irons put a sideways torque on the lug and the
iron slips off, rounding both.

Having a 3' hunk of blackpipe in the car
is still a better solution, though.

Having a good (cross) tire iron; priceless.


"Good" is the operative word here. A good
1-bend tire iron won't slip of the lugs,
and a good cross-iron won't freaking twist
into a pretzel and snap the socket off the
bar on you. Both of which I've had happen
with cheap equipment.

On Thu, 14 Dec 2006 14:29:49 -0500, krw wrote:

Having a good (cross) tire iron; priceless.

Having one that fits the lug nuts; priceless.

--
Oren

"Well, it doesn't happen all the time, but when it happens, it happens constantly."

Jim Yanik posted for all of us...


Is "G" suggesting you use the tire jack to lift up on the lugnut wrench to
break loose the lugnuts? A great opportunity to have the thing slip and go
flying with some force in a random direction.


Run Forest, RUN
--
Tekkie Don't bother to thank me, I do this as a public service.

In article slrneo3eb7.l92.aznomad.2@ip70-176-155-
130.ph.ph.cox.net, says...
On Thu, 14 Dec 2006 15:12:00 -0500, krw wrote:


In article slrneo3ajf.l92.aznomad.2@ip70-176-155-
130.ph.ph.cox.net, says...
On Thu, 14 Dec 2006 14:29:49 -0500, krw wrote:


I've stripped out the stock tire-iron. I've had some fold up.
Most of the stock irons put a sideways torque on the lug and the
iron slips off, rounding both.

Having a 3' hunk of blackpipe in the car
is still a better solution, though.

Having a good (cross) tire iron; priceless.

A good cross type tire iron won't generate enough torque. Nowadays I always keep
a 20-24" breaker bar and a 1/2" socket in the car.

I can put a *lot* of torque on a lug with a cross lug-wrench.
Stand on one end while lifting the other puts a tun on torque on
the nut, while making sure there is no lateral torque on the
lug.nut/wrench.

I was talking about situations where the lugnuts have been overtorqued by a
impact hammer.

So was I. Anything more will warp the rotors.


--
Keith

In article ,
says...

I've stripped out the stock tire-iron. I've had some fold up.
Most of the stock irons put a sideways torque on the lug and the
iron slips off, rounding both.

Having a 3' hunk of blackpipe in the car
is still a better solution, though.

Having a good (cross) tire iron; priceless.


"Good" is the operative word here. A good
1-bend tire iron won't slip of the lugs,
and a good cross-iron won't freaking twist
into a pretzel and snap the socket off the
bar on you. Both of which I've had happen
with cheap equipment.

An 'l' iron will still put a lateral torque on the lug and tend to
slip on the nut. Get a decent 'X' iron and put it under the spare,
You do have a full sized spare...

--
Keith

In article ,
says...
In article ,
says...
Mike Hartigan wrote in
.net:

In article .com,
says...
DK wrote:

Walmart torques my nuts at least 25 ft lbs higher than spec. Discout
tires over torques more than 40 ft lbs.

I wonder why? Do they think over torquing is better/safer?

Given that they're going to do it wrong, I'd rather have them over
torque than under torque. It's safer to lose a bolt than the whole
wheel.

What if they warp the brake rotors?

That gets expensive.

Not nearly as expensive as losing a wheel.

And it seems that brake rotors are finally getting cheaper. I
recently bought a pair for my son's Stratus at Auto Zone for $15
each.

Yep, but cheaper better. Figure on rotors for every brake job.
It's not a biggie if you do the work yourself, but check out what
the shops charge for those $15 rotors. Midas, anyone?

--
Keith

Goedjn wrote:
You put the tire-iron on the nut, handle-sticking out sideways,
to the right. Then you put the jack under the end of the handle
and crank it up.

I've had jacks (more than one) that didn't have any surface that was
usable for something like that. One example was the one that had nothing
but a hook on its business end for hooking into a slot on the car.

--
Asking Iran and Syria to help us succeed in Iraq is like your local fire
department asking a couple of arsonists to help put out the fire.
-- Joe Lieberman

On Sat, 16 Dec 2006 14:17:41 -0600, clifto wrote:


Goedjn wrote:
You put the tire-iron on the nut, handle-sticking out sideways,
to the right. Then you put the jack under the end of the handle
and crank it up.

I've had jacks (more than one) that didn't have any surface that was
usable for something like that. One example was the one that had nothing
but a hook on its business end for hooking into a slot on the car.

The limiting factor is usually the socket on the lugnut. An adult jumping
down on a tire iron can produce over 200 ft-lbs of force assuming it
didn't slip off, but 30-40 ft-lbs is probably a typical maximum before
a cheap tool slips off.