Now that I have all the wiring done in my basement I'm installing insulation
in the walls. It's pretty straightforward but there are a couple of things
I wanted to know.

None of the studs in my walls are evenly spaced. I think one section is
actually a standard space apart ( whatever that is, 24" or something), the
rest are too close together and one is about 1.5 times wider than normal.
This is due to the cross beam placement in the ceiling I suspose. How do I
know it's too close together - when installing the insulation I have to
bunch it up in the space. Is that a bad thing to do? Right now its all
scrunched up in there, nothing too tight, but definitely compressed to some
degree.

When working insulation around boxes, should I cut the insulation short of
the box, then mold a bottom piece of insulation to fit around the box, and
continue down the wall? I have a notion of just shoving it in there, but
I've been warned about hotspots by doing that.

Lastly, in some sections I have romex running down the stud from the ceiling
to outlet boxes and such. Should I do anything with the insulation along
the stud where the Romex is routed?

One other thing, is it easier to work with insulation with a pair of
scissors or a cutter? I'm using a cutter, but I notice that while the paper
is cut evenly, the insulation is typically raggedy. The pink stuff isn't
the best medium for a box cutter.

Eigenvector wrote:
Now that I have all the wiring done in my basement I'm installing insulation
in the walls. It's pretty straightforward but there are a couple of things
I wanted to know.

None of the studs in my walls are evenly spaced. I think one section is
actually a standard space apart ( whatever that is, 24" or something), the
rest are too close together and one is about 1.5 times wider than normal.
This is due to the cross beam placement in the ceiling I suspose. How do I
know it's too close together - when installing the insulation I have to
bunch it up in the space. Is that a bad thing to do? Right now its all
scrunched up in there, nothing too tight, but definitely compressed to some
degree.

When working insulation around boxes, should I cut the insulation short of
the box, then mold a bottom piece of insulation to fit around the box, and
continue down the wall? I have a notion of just shoving it in there, but
I've been warned about hotspots by doing that.

Lastly, in some sections I have romex running down the stud from the ceiling
to outlet boxes and such. Should I do anything with the insulation along
the stud where the Romex is routed?

One other thing, is it easier to work with insulation with a pair of
scissors or a cutter? I'm using a cutter, but I notice that while the paper
is cut evenly, the insulation is typically raggedy. The pink stuff isn't
the best medium for a box cutter.

to get the maximum insulation value, the insulation must fluff to
whatever size it is meant for (5 1/2" for R-21, for example). it
should not be compressed and it should not have voids. Don't scrunch
it into a joist cavity; cut the insulation to fit. I think it pays to
be careful about this--after all, you're paying for the insulation, why
not take a few extra hours and get it right? if a joist cavity is too
big, run the insulation crosswise. cut around electrical boxes, making
sure there is insulation behind the box. split it around wires (or
make a slit for the wire to run in.)

I use a utility knive. I don't think scissors would work very well.
compress the batt as you cut it. you can get a utility knive with the
blade that has snap-off sections..just extend the blade out and you
will have a long-bladed utility knive. I've found that works well on
thicker batts.

I actually use an eight foot straight edge and cut the batts to width
if need be. I like to use a utility knife with

To cut insulation, I use either a snap-off utility knife with the blade
extended about as far as it will go, or for other types of insulation I have
found that a very large (12") pair of scissors are good, I have even used a
sharp pair of hedge shears to trim insulation.

"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
Now that I have all the wiring done in my basement I'm installing
insulation in the walls. It's pretty straightforward but there are a
couple of things I wanted to know.

None of the studs in my walls are evenly spaced. I think one section is
actually a standard space apart ( whatever that is, 24" or something), the
rest are too close together and one is about 1.5 times wider than normal.
This is due to the cross beam placement in the ceiling I suspose. How do
I know it's too close together - when installing the insulation I have to
bunch it up in the space. Is that a bad thing to do? Right now its all
scrunched up in there, nothing too tight, but definitely compressed to
some degree.

When working insulation around boxes, should I cut the insulation short of
the box, then mold a bottom piece of insulation to fit around the box, and
continue down the wall? I have a notion of just shoving it in there, but
I've been warned about hotspots by doing that.

Lastly, in some sections I have romex running down the stud from the
ceiling to outlet boxes and such. Should I do anything with the
insulation along the stud where the Romex is routed?

One other thing, is it easier to work with insulation with a pair of
scissors or a cutter? I'm using a cutter, but I notice that while the
paper is cut evenly, the insulation is typically raggedy. The pink stuff
isn't the best medium for a box cutter.

Eigenvector wrote:
None of the studs in my walls are evenly spaced. I think one section is
actually a standard space apart ( whatever that is, 24" or something),

Standard distance is 16" on center. Some are 24", but its' rare.

rest are too close together and one is about 1.5 times wider than normal.
This is due to the cross beam placement in the ceiling I suspose. How do I
know it's too close together - when installing the insulation I have to
bunch it up in the space. Is that a bad thing to do? Right now its all
scrunched up in there, nothing too tight, but definitely compressed to some
degree.

if your spaces are irregular then you have to cut bats to fit. It's
better to have it be a bit too large than too small so a certain amount
of scrunching is inevitable. It is not ideal but nothing is,
especially with regards to fiberglass bats.

When working insulation around boxes, should I cut the insulation short of
the box, then mold a bottom piece of insulation to fit around the box, and
continue down the wall? I have a notion of just shoving it in there, but
I've been warned about hotspots by doing that.

I like to cut a notch slighty smaller than the box so it will fit
around the box snugly. I then cut a small piece of glass to fit under
the box. I size it to overlap the large piece and tear it in half to
reduce the thickness.

Lastly, in some sections I have romex running down the stud from the ceiling
to outlet boxes and such. Should I do anything with the insulation along
the stud where the Romex is routed?

One other thing, is it easier to work with insulation with a pair of
scissors or a cutter? I'm using a cutter, but I notice that while the paper
is cut evenly, the insulation is typically raggedy. The pink stuff isn't
the best medium for a box cutter.

I use a breakaway style utiliity knife. they can be found usually in
the paint section and sometimes with the other utility knives. This
style of knife can be extended and retracted. It gives you a nice long
blade to work with, several inches. But the real trick for cutting
insulation is to press the insulaton down at cut line down with a 2x4.
This compresses it and makes it a lot easier to cut regardless of what
type of knife you use.

It helpful to have an improvised workbench. I use a hunk of plywood
over sawhorses. Then you can cut straight through the glass to the
plywood using the edge of the 2x4 as a guide for your knife. When
measuring for fiberglass recognize that it is impossible to make a
perfect cut. Recognizing that, shoot for having your piece be ever so
slightly larger that needed. Then you can do a little scrunching if
neccessary to be sure there are no gaps or cold spots. Avoidance of
cold spots is a very big deal compared to a small amount of scrunching.

One other thing, is it easier to work with insulation with a pair of
scissors or a cutter? I'm using a cutter, but I notice that while the paper
is cut evenly, the insulation is typically raggedy. The pink stuff isn't
the best medium for a box cutter.

I get myself a flat surface like a sheet of plywood, a utility knife
and say a 1x3. Just compress the fiberglass with the 1x3 and use it as
a straight edge for cutting. Usually 2 passes and yer done. As for
fitting the fiberglass, just cut it up as required to fill the space
.... no need to pack it that much, it stays put. and if yoo're putting
vapor barrier overtop it won't go anywhere. I myself have never use the
glass with the paper ... just plain glass ... and vapor barrier.

Find the company in your area that does the "sticky" blown cellulose. It's
the only way to fly. More "R" per inch, and it only cost me $200 more than
doing it myself in my 1400 sq. ft.

--
Steve Barker



"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
Now that I have all the wiring done in my basement I'm installing
insulation in the walls. It's pretty straightforward but there are a
couple of things I wanted to know.

None of the studs in my walls are evenly spaced. I think one section is
actually a standard space apart ( whatever that is, 24" or something), the
rest are too close together and one is about 1.5 times wider than normal.
This is due to the cross beam placement in the ceiling I suspose. How do
I know it's too close together - when installing the insulation I have to
bunch it up in the space. Is that a bad thing to do? Right now its all
scrunched up in there, nothing too tight, but definitely compressed to
some degree.

When working insulation around boxes, should I cut the insulation short of
the box, then mold a bottom piece of insulation to fit around the box, and
continue down the wall? I have a notion of just shoving it in there, but
I've been warned about hotspots by doing that.

Lastly, in some sections I have romex running down the stud from the
ceiling to outlet boxes and such. Should I do anything with the
insulation along the stud where the Romex is routed?

One other thing, is it easier to work with insulation with a pair of
scissors or a cutter? I'm using a cutter, but I notice that while the
paper is cut evenly, the insulation is typically raggedy. The pink stuff
isn't the best medium for a box cutter.

Here's the website of the company that supplied the product my contractor
used.

http://www.centralfiber.com/cellins.html

--
Steve Barker


"Eigenvector" wrote in message
...
Now that I have all the wiring done in my basement I'm installing
insulation in the walls. It's pretty straightforward but there are a
couple of things I wanted to know.

None of the studs in my walls are evenly spaced. I think one section is
actually a standard space apart ( whatever that is, 24" or something), the
rest are too close together and one is about 1.5 times wider than normal.
This is due to the cross beam placement in the ceiling I suspose. How do
I know it's too close together - when installing the insulation I have to
bunch it up in the space. Is that a bad thing to do? Right now its all
scrunched up in there, nothing too tight, but definitely compressed to
some degree.

When working insulation around boxes, should I cut the insulation short of
the box, then mold a bottom piece of insulation to fit around the box, and
continue down the wall? I have a notion of just shoving it in there, but
I've been warned about hotspots by doing that.

Lastly, in some sections I have romex running down the stud from the
ceiling to outlet boxes and such. Should I do anything with the
insulation along the stud where the Romex is routed?

One other thing, is it easier to work with insulation with a pair of
scissors or a cutter? I'm using a cutter, but I notice that while the
paper is cut evenly, the insulation is typically raggedy. The pink stuff
isn't the best medium for a box cutter.

Something even better (IMO). I cut a slot about 30" long in a sheet of
plywood on saw horses. Lay the insulation over the slot where you want it
cut. Push down with your 1x3 ( I used a 2x4) and cut with your ginsu (or
any other sharp bread type knife) through the slot. Works great!

--
Steve Barker




"bowgus" wrote in message
oups.com...

One other thing, is it easier to work with insulation with a pair of
scissors or a cutter? I'm using a cutter, but I notice that while the
paper
is cut evenly, the insulation is typically raggedy. The pink stuff isn't
the best medium for a box cutter.

I get myself a flat surface like a sheet of plywood, a utility knife
and say a 1x3. Just compress the fiberglass with the 1x3 and use it as
a straight edge for cutting. Usually 2 passes and yer done. As for
fitting the fiberglass, just cut it up as required to fill the space
... no need to pack it that much, it stays put. and if yoo're putting
vapor barrier overtop it won't go anywhere. I myself have never use the
glass with the paper ... just plain glass ... and vapor barrier.

Hedge shears work great if you sharpen them first.
Eigenvector wrote:
Now that I have all the wiring done in my basement I'm installing insulation
in the walls. It's pretty straightforward but there are a couple of things
I wanted to know.

None of the studs in my walls are evenly spaced. I think one section is
actually a standard space apart ( whatever that is, 24" or something), the
rest are too close together and one is about 1.5 times wider than normal.
This is due to the cross beam placement in the ceiling I suspose. How do I
know it's too close together - when installing the insulation I have to
bunch it up in the space. Is that a bad thing to do? Right now its all
scrunched up in there, nothing too tight, but definitely compressed to some
degree.

When working insulation around boxes, should I cut the insulation short of
the box, then mold a bottom piece of insulation to fit around the box, and
continue down the wall? I have a notion of just shoving it in there, but
I've been warned about hotspots by doing that.

Lastly, in some sections I have romex running down the stud from the ceiling
to outlet boxes and such. Should I do anything with the insulation along
the stud where the Romex is routed?

One other thing, is it easier to work with insulation with a pair of
scissors or a cutter? I'm using a cutter, but I notice that while the paper
is cut evenly, the insulation is typically raggedy. The pink stuff isn't
the best medium for a box cutter.

"Lawrence" wrote in message
oups.com...

Eigenvector wrote:
None of the studs in my walls are evenly spaced. I think one section is
actually a standard space apart ( whatever that is, 24" or something),

Standard distance is 16" on center. Some are 24", but its' rare.

rest are too close together and one is about 1.5 times wider than normal.
This is due to the cross beam placement in the ceiling I suspose. How do
I
know it's too close together - when installing the insulation I have to
bunch it up in the space. Is that a bad thing to do? Right now its all
scrunched up in there, nothing too tight, but definitely compressed to
some
degree.

if your spaces are irregular then you have to cut bats to fit. It's
better to have it be a bit too large than too small so a certain amount
of scrunching is inevitable. It is not ideal but nothing is,
especially with regards to fiberglass bats.

When working insulation around boxes, should I cut the insulation short
of
the box, then mold a bottom piece of insulation to fit around the box,
and
continue down the wall? I have a notion of just shoving it in there, but
I've been warned about hotspots by doing that.

I like to cut a notch slighty smaller than the box so it will fit
around the box snugly. I then cut a small piece of glass to fit under
the box. I size it to overlap the large piece and tear it in half to
reduce the thickness.

Lastly, in some sections I have romex running down the stud from the
ceiling
to outlet boxes and such. Should I do anything with the insulation along
the stud where the Romex is routed?

One other thing, is it easier to work with insulation with a pair of
scissors or a cutter? I'm using a cutter, but I notice that while the
paper
is cut evenly, the insulation is typically raggedy. The pink stuff isn't
the best medium for a box cutter.

I use a breakaway style utiliity knife. they can be found usually in
the paint section and sometimes with the other utility knives. This
style of knife can be extended and retracted. It gives you a nice long
blade to work with, several inches. But the real trick for cutting
insulation is to press the insulaton down at cut line down with a 2x4.
This compresses it and makes it a lot easier to cut regardless of what
type of knife you use.

It helpful to have an improvised workbench. I use a hunk of plywood
over sawhorses. Then you can cut straight through the glass to the
plywood using the edge of the 2x4 as a guide for your knife. When
measuring for fiberglass recognize that it is impossible to make a
perfect cut. Recognizing that, shoot for having your piece be ever so
slightly larger that needed. Then you can do a little scrunching if
neccessary to be sure there are no gaps or cold spots. Avoidance of
cold spots is a very big deal compared to a small amount of scrunching.

Thanks all for the responses. For the sounds of it I need to change my
knife, and maybe get a better work surface. I'll figure it out.

I've been trying to do everything while in place, but I guess once the wall
has been measured the rest can be done on a better work surface.