Hi,

My boiler was leaking water from the pressure relief valve and running
at about 40psi. So, I changed the expansion tank, pressure relief
valve, water regulator, and the component that let's out the steam and
keeps the water in. To accomplish this, I drained water from the
pressure relief valve. The pressure after draining the whole water was
still showing at 10psi. I turned the water inlet, and temperature
immediately went to about 28psi. When the temperature rises to about
180-185 degrees, it goes as high as 30psi, but no water falls out of
pressure relief valve.

I don't know what else to do. Do you think my psi gauge is bad? A
friend thinks it is becuase the water pressure in my house is 100psi,
however I dont' buy that b/c water regulator is suppose to control
that... Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

If you think it's the gauge.. is it easy to change and just screw out,
or something more complicated?

Thanks.

In article .com, on 1
Nov 2006 09:27:00 -0800, wrote:

Hi,

My boiler was leaking water from the pressure relief valve and running
at about 40psi. So, I changed the expansion tank, pressure relief
valve, water regulator, and the component that let's out the steam and
keeps the water in. To accomplish this, I drained water from the
pressure relief valve. The pressure after draining the whole water was
still showing at 10psi. I turned the water inlet, and temperature
immediately went to about 28psi. When the temperature rises to about
180-185 degrees, it goes as high as 30psi, but no water falls out of
pressure relief valve.

I don't know what else to do. Do you think my psi gauge is bad? A
friend thinks it is becuase the water pressure in my house is 100psi,
however I dont' buy that b/c water regulator is suppose to control
that... Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

If you think it's the gauge.. is it easy to change and just screw out,
or something more complicated?

I doubt it's your gauge - the PRV is supposed to vent at 40 psi - if
that's what your gauge said, it's spot on.

Do you have a tankless water heater coil in the boiler for domestic hot
water? Sometimes those can leak water into the boiler, building
pressure over time.


--
Seth Goodman

In article .com, on 1
Nov 2006 09:27:00 -0800, wrote:

A
friend thinks it is becuase the water pressure in my house is 100psi,
however I dont' buy that b/c water regulator is suppose to control
that...


Actually, your friend may be right. 100 PSI is very high. It's possible
that the water regulator is leaking a little water at such high pressure
- it only takes a slight leak to build up pressure in the boiler over
time. If you're using a feed valve like this one:

http://www.watts.com/pdf/ES-1156F.pdf

you'll note that its maximum rated input pressure is 100 PSI.

Most domestic plumbing fixtures are rated at 75 psi max. You're
potentially damaging *all* your plumbing fixtures. I'd suggest putting
in a pressure-reducing valve right at your main water valve, and setting
it around 60 psi.

--
Seth Goodman

Hi Seth,
Thank you for your response. I don't think the water regulator is
leaking because I just changed it yesterday. Eventually I am going to
get a pressure reducing valve by the meter. For now I am stumbled, and
trying to figure out what's going on. By the way, the PRV's are suppose
to set off at 30PSI... not 40. Also I dont' have water heating coil.

Thanks Again.

Seth Goodman wrote:
In article .com, on 1
Nov 2006 09:27:00 -0800, wrote:

A
friend thinks it is becuase the water pressure in my house is 100psi,
however I dont' buy that b/c water regulator is suppose to control
that...


Actually, your friend may be right. 100 PSI is very high. It's possible
that the water regulator is leaking a little water at such high pressure
- it only takes a slight leak to build up pressure in the boiler over
time. If you're using a feed valve like this one:

http://www.watts.com/pdf/ES-1156F.pdf

you'll note that its maximum rated input pressure is 100 PSI.

Most domestic plumbing fixtures are rated at 75 psi max. You're
potentially damaging *all* your plumbing fixtures. I'd suggest putting
in a pressure-reducing valve right at your main water valve, and setting
it around 60 psi.

--
Seth Goodman

I dont know why you changed anything, your problem is probably your
autofeed valve. You dont need to leave it on unless you have steam heat,
HW is a closed system. Drop your water pressure to 10-12 and see what
happens, keep the autofeed closed, if pressure increases more than 4lb
your expansion tank was and is to small. You only need enough pressure
to get water to the highest floor, I run mine at 12 and the boiler is in
the basement of 3 upper floors, a total of 4 floors. If the top floor
radiators get cold add a few more lb. Autofeeds are known to go bad,
turn it off, if level drops you have a leak to fix. Boilers last longest
at lowest pressures.

wrote:
Hi,

My boiler was leaking water from the pressure relief valve and running
at about 40psi. So, I changed the expansion tank, pressure relief
valve, water regulator, and the component that let's out the steam and
keeps the water in. To accomplish this, I drained water from the
pressure relief valve. The pressure after draining the whole water was
still showing at 10psi. I turned the water inlet, and temperature
immediately went to about 28psi. When the temperature rises to about
180-185 degrees, it goes as high as 30psi, but no water falls out of
pressure relief valve.

I don't know what else to do. Do you think my psi gauge is bad? A
friend thinks it is becuase the water pressure in my house is 100psi,
however I dont' buy that b/c water regulator is suppose to control
that... Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

If you think it's the gauge.. is it easy to change and just screw out,
or something more complicated?

Thanks.

Your problem most likely is with the Watts water feed reulator. In a
very basic hot water setup most installers put in the Watts which
maintains a presure between 12 - 15 psi. If your loosing water from
the PRV, then most likely it's doing it's job because the auto feed
isn't. Your expansion tank was probably OK and the next time you want
to check it is to just feel the bottom of it. It should be cold. This
is because theres a bladder of air in it which helps with the
fluxuations in water temp and pressure. What you can do is shut off
the water to the boiler and take the auto feed apart. You'll see a
diaphram inside and may find that there is a lot of junk in there that
may be keeping it open, but I would just replace it. Maybe $20 or so
bucks at HD.

-paul

Thank you everyone for your advice and help. I found out that my gauge
is bad. Last night I drained the system again and the pressure gauge is
stuck at 10.... when I tap on it, it goes down to 6psi. I called
Hydrotherm, my boiler company, and found out the part number 20-1014 is
the pressure and temperature gauge for 23.06. Going to buy and replace
over the weekend. Does anyone know how the gauge comes off? Everyone
says it's just twist off? My boiler has a nut behind it. Dont' want to
get stuck with no heat in cold weather... wife will probably kill me!
lol

Also, when I took off the expansion tank... it was full of water... so
that was definitely bad as well. i think the boiler is about 15 years
old, and it was time for all the parts to be replaced anyway... It has
served well all this while.

Thanks again.
Shoaib Chaudhry.
wrote:
wrote:
Hi,

My boiler was leaking water from the pressure relief valve and running
at about 40psi. So, I changed the expansion tank, pressure relief
valve, water regulator, and the component that let's out the steam and
keeps the water in. To accomplish this, I drained water from the
pressure relief valve. The pressure after draining the whole water was
still showing at 10psi. I turned the water inlet, and temperature
immediately went to about 28psi. When the temperature rises to about
180-185 degrees, it goes as high as 30psi, but no water falls out of
pressure relief valve.

I don't know what else to do. Do you think my psi gauge is bad? A
friend thinks it is becuase the water pressure in my house is 100psi,
however I dont' buy that b/c water regulator is suppose to control
that... Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

If you think it's the gauge.. is it easy to change and just screw out,
or something more complicated?

Thanks.

Your problem most likely is with the Watts water feed reulator. In a
very basic hot water setup most installers put in the Watts which
maintains a presure between 12 - 15 psi. If your loosing water from
the PRV, then most likely it's doing it's job because the auto feed
isn't. Your expansion tank was probably OK and the next time you want
to check it is to just feel the bottom of it. It should be cold. This
is because theres a bladder of air in it which helps with the
fluxuations in water temp and pressure. What you can do is shut off
the water to the boiler and take the auto feed apart. You'll see a
diaphram inside and may find that there is a lot of junk in there that
may be keeping it open, but I would just replace it. Maybe $20 or so
bucks at HD.

-paul

BTW, here is the boiler.. and the gauge I want to change is right in
the front...

http://www.hydrotherm.com/html/id.asp

wrote:
Thank you everyone for your advice and help. I found out that my gauge
is bad. Last night I drained the system again and the pressure gauge is
stuck at 10.... when I tap on it, it goes down to 6psi. I called
Hydrotherm, my boiler company, and found out the part number 20-1014 is
the pressure and temperature gauge for 23.06. Going to buy and replace
over the weekend. Does anyone know how the gauge comes off? Everyone
says it's just twist off? My boiler has a nut behind it. Dont' want to
get stuck with no heat in cold weather... wife will probably kill me!
lol

Also, when I took off the expansion tank... it was full of water... so
that was definitely bad as well. i think the boiler is about 15 years
old, and it was time for all the parts to be replaced anyway... It has
served well all this while.

Thanks again.
Shoaib Chaudhry.
wrote:
wrote:
Hi,

My boiler was leaking water from the pressure relief valve and running
at about 40psi. So, I changed the expansion tank, pressure relief
valve, water regulator, and the component that let's out the steam and
keeps the water in. To accomplish this, I drained water from the
pressure relief valve. The pressure after draining the whole water was
still showing at 10psi. I turned the water inlet, and temperature
immediately went to about 28psi. When the temperature rises to about
180-185 degrees, it goes as high as 30psi, but no water falls out of
pressure relief valve.

I don't know what else to do. Do you think my psi gauge is bad? A
friend thinks it is becuase the water pressure in my house is 100psi,
however I dont' buy that b/c water regulator is suppose to control
that... Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

If you think it's the gauge.. is it easy to change and just screw out,
or something more complicated?

Thanks.

Your problem most likely is with the Watts water feed reulator. In a
very basic hot water setup most installers put in the Watts which
maintains a presure between 12 - 15 psi. If your loosing water from
the PRV, then most likely it's doing it's job because the auto feed
isn't. Your expansion tank was probably OK and the next time you want
to check it is to just feel the bottom of it. It should be cold. This
is because theres a bladder of air in it which helps with the
fluxuations in water temp and pressure. What you can do is shut off
the water to the boiler and take the auto feed apart. You'll see a
diaphram inside and may find that there is a lot of junk in there that
may be keeping it open, but I would just replace it. Maybe $20 or so
bucks at HD.

-paul

wrote:
Thank you everyone for your advice and help. I found out that my gauge
is bad. Last night I drained the system again and the pressure gauge is
stuck at 10.... when I tap on it, it goes down to 6psi. I called
Hydrotherm, my boiler company, and found out the part number 20-1014 is
the pressure and temperature gauge for 23.06. Going to buy and replace
over the weekend. Does anyone know how the gauge comes off? Everyone
says it's just twist off? My boiler has a nut behind it. Dont' want to
get stuck with no heat in cold weather... wife will probably kill me!
lol

Also, when I took off the expansion tank... it was full of water... so
that was definitely bad as well. i think the boiler is about 15 years
old, and it was time for all the parts to be replaced anyway... It has
served well all this while.

Thanks again.
Shoaib Chaudhry.
wrote:
wrote:
Hi,

My boiler was leaking water from the pressure relief valve and running
at about 40psi. So, I changed the expansion tank, pressure relief
valve, water regulator, and the component that let's out the steam and
keeps the water in. To accomplish this, I drained water from the
pressure relief valve. The pressure after draining the whole water was
still showing at 10psi. I turned the water inlet, and temperature
immediately went to about 28psi. When the temperature rises to about
180-185 degrees, it goes as high as 30psi, but no water falls out of
pressure relief valve.

I don't know what else to do. Do you think my psi gauge is bad? A
friend thinks it is becuase the water pressure in my house is 100psi,
however I dont' buy that b/c water regulator is suppose to control
that... Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

If you think it's the gauge.. is it easy to change and just screw out,
or something more complicated?

Thanks.

Your problem most likely is with the Watts water feed reulator. In a
very basic hot water setup most installers put in the Watts which
maintains a presure between 12 - 15 psi. If your loosing water from
the PRV, then most likely it's doing it's job because the auto feed
isn't. Your expansion tank was probably OK and the next time you want
to check it is to just feel the bottom of it. It should be cold. This
is because theres a bladder of air in it which helps with the
fluxuations in water temp and pressure. What you can do is shut off
the water to the boiler and take the auto feed apart. You'll see a
diaphram inside and may find that there is a lot of junk in there that
may be keeping it open, but I would just replace it. Maybe $20 or so
bucks at HD.

-paul

Since you already called the boiler manufacturer and they gave you the
part number, call them back ask them how to remove the gauge. Who
better to ask?

-paul

Ok.... Everyone.. I found out that the gauge was bad. Unscrewed the
gauge counterclock wise and replaced with the new one. BINGO!
Everything works great. May be i changed all the parts unneccesarily
except for expansion tank which was filled with water.

Thanks everyone for your help.!
Regards.
Shoaib.
wrote:
Hi,

My boiler was leaking water from the pressure relief valve and running
at about 40psi. So, I changed the expansion tank, pressure relief
valve, water regulator, and the component that let's out the steam and
keeps the water in. To accomplish this, I drained water from the
pressure relief valve. The pressure after draining the whole water was
still showing at 10psi. I turned the water inlet, and temperature
immediately went to about 28psi. When the temperature rises to about
180-185 degrees, it goes as high as 30psi, but no water falls out of
pressure relief valve.

I don't know what else to do. Do you think my psi gauge is bad? A
friend thinks it is becuase the water pressure in my house is 100psi,
however I dont' buy that b/c water regulator is suppose to control
that... Any ideas will be greatly appreciated.

If you think it's the gauge.. is it easy to change and just screw out,
or something more complicated?

Thanks.