6-year old MayTag electric water heater - 50 gallon, dual element
- Model HE2950T.
About two weeks ago, I had noticed that the hot water was
way too hot. Didn't do anything. One week ago, the high
temperature breaker on the upper thermostat started tripping.
Once I reset the breaker button, it trips again a day later. The
temperature setting on both the upper and lower thermostats is in
the middle of the range.

Googled online and found some info on diagnose the problem.

Here was what I did. Fist I flip the main circuit breaker to cut
off electric power to the water heater. Open both upper and lower
access panels on the heater
1) removed one of the wire connecting to the heating element and
then tested the resistance in between the two probes. My
multi-meter read 10 ohms on both heating elements. So I
concluded that the heating elements are good.
2) I measured the resistance in between the two probes (the two
bolts where wires were connected) on the lower thermostat, and
it read zero. So I concluded that the lower thermostat is good.
3) I did not know how to test the upper thermostat for there are
so many probes...

Anyway, since there only a few things that could go wrong, and
I have eliminated both of the heating elements, the lower
thermostat, then I figure the upper thermostat must be the
culprit. A replacement thermostat from Maytag costs $79.95.
I am not ready to spend so much money on a thermostat...
I found this thermostat online
http://www.waterheaterparts.net/cgi-...words=electsta...
and Lowes does sell it for $12.98.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ductId=26358-0...
I contacted waterheaterparts.com to ask if the thermostat can be
used on my heater. They told me that their product is rather
"universal" for electric water heaters with dual heating
elements and are wired for non-simultaneous operations.
Well I know my model has two heating elements, but I can't tell
if it is wired for "non-simultaneous" opeartions. Neither could they.

So I went to Lowes (I bought the Maytag there five years ago)
and asked for the product. The guy at Lowes told me that
they no longer sell Maytag water heaters. They now sell
Whirlpool water heaters, and that since they sell this
thermostat, it could be used as a replacement for Whirlpool
electric water heaters. But he did not think it could be used
on my Maytag water heater. he said something like there
are some sort of internal "calibrations" specific to each
brand of water heaters, and I can't simply use some other
thermostats as replacement.

Now I am confused. A thermostat senses the water temperature.
And when the water temperature is below a threshold you
set, it sends a signal to the heating element to heat up the
water. When the temperature in the water goes above the
threshold, it sends a signal to stop the element from
further heating the water. What kind of "internal
"calibrations" are needed for different brands of electric
water heaters?

So I am wonder if anyone can shed some light as to what
replacement thermostat I could use for my water heater.
The Maytag customer support is terrible. The number
printed on the user manual is no longer the right number.

Thanks for any help,

Ted

Here was what I did. Fist I flip the main circuit breaker to cut
off electric power to the water heater. Open both upper and lower
access panels on the heater
1) removed one of the wire connecting to the heating element and
then tested the resistance in between the two probes. My
multi-meter read 10 ohms on both heating elements. So I
concluded that the heating elements are good.
2) I measured the resistance in between the two probes (the two
bolts where wires were connected) on the lower thermostat, and
it read zero. So I concluded that the lower thermostat is good.
3) I did not know how to test the upper thermostat for there are
so many probes...


Good start...

I assume this is a 220 Volt system...

in which case you should also check the heating elements for shorts to
ground...

Use your ohmmeter to check for an undesried connection from each
heating element input terminal the the grounded metal housing... that
would be an undesried short and would cause the element to draw current
all the time.

BE SURE THE POWER IS OFF WHEN DOING THESE TESTS

Mark

Mark wrote:

Here was what I did. Fist I flip the main circuit breaker to cut
off electric power to the water heater. Open both upper and lower
access panels on the heater
1) removed one of the wire connecting to the heating element and
then tested the resistance in between the two probes. My
multi-meter read 10 ohms on both heating elements. So I
concluded that the heating elements are good.
2) I measured the resistance in between the two probes (the two
bolts where wires were connected) on the lower thermostat, and
it read zero. So I concluded that the lower thermostat is good.
3) I did not know how to test the upper thermostat for there are
so many probes...


Good start...

I assume this is a 220 Volt system...

in which case you should also check the heating elements for shorts to
ground...

Use your ohmmeter to check for an undesried connection from each
heating element input terminal the the grounded metal housing... that
would be an undesried short and would cause the element to draw current
all the time.

BE SURE THE POWER IS OFF WHEN DOING THESE TESTS

Mark

Thanks for the advice..
The upper thermostat on my electric water heater looks exactly like
this one
http://www.plumbingworld.com/images/thermostat-el15.jpg
available online.

Since all those thermostats out there are pretty much generic type.
And such generic thermostats are so much cheaper than the ones
sold by the manufacturer. I dont really mind to replace both the
upper and the lowe thermostats just to be safe.

The question is, can I do that (i.e. replace both thermostats by
generic ones)? Again one vender told me that the thermostats
they sell (American Water Heater brand) for dual heating elements
(upper thermostst w/ high temp limit) is specifically wired for
non-simultaneous operations. How do I know it is good as
a replacement for my water heater? Do I have to contact
Maytag and ask if my water heater is wired for non-simultaneous
operations. Again, trying to call Maytag customer service is
a pain...

If replecement thermostats are so specific for each brand, why there
are so many generic, universal thermostats for electric watyer heaters?

Ted

wrote:
On 5 Oct 2006 10:10:19 -0700, "tcl" wrote:

The question is, can I do that (i.e. replace both thermostats by
generic ones)?

You can eliminate the bottom one by disconnecting the wire to the
bottom element and see if it still overheats, If so the top is bad. If
not the bottom is bad.

Thanks, definitely will try this test over the weekend.
But that does not answer my question. Can I simply go out
and buy a generic thermostat instead of getting the factory
thermostat from Maytag, which is four to six times more expensive.

tcl wrote:
6-year old MayTag electric water heater - 50 gallon, dual element
- Model HE2950T.
About two weeks ago, I had noticed that the hot water was
way too hot. Didn't do anything. One week ago, the high
temperature breaker on the upper thermostat started tripping.
Once I reset the breaker button, it trips again a day later. The
temperature setting on both the upper and lower thermostats is in
the middle of the range.

Googled online and found some info on diagnose the problem.

Here was what I did. Fist I flip the main circuit breaker to cut
off electric power to the water heater. Open both upper and lower
access panels on the heater
1) removed one of the wire connecting to the heating element and
then tested the resistance in between the two probes. My
multi-meter read 10 ohms on both heating elements. So I
concluded that the heating elements are good.
2) I measured the resistance in between the two probes (the two
bolts where wires were connected) on the lower thermostat, and
it read zero. So I concluded that the lower thermostat is good.
3) I did not know how to test the upper thermostat for there are
so many probes...

Anyway, since there only a few things that could go wrong, and
I have eliminated both of the heating elements, the lower
thermostat, then I figure the upper thermostat must be the
culprit. A replacement thermostat from Maytag costs $79.95.
I am not ready to spend so much money on a thermostat...
I found this thermostat online
http://www.waterheaterparts.net/cgi-...words=electsta...
and Lowes does sell it for $12.98.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ductId=26358-0...
I contacted waterheaterparts.com to ask if the thermostat can be
used on my heater. They told me that their product is rather
"universal" for electric water heaters with dual heating
elements and are wired for non-simultaneous operations.
Well I know my model has two heating elements, but I can't tell
if it is wired for "non-simultaneous" opeartions. Neither could they.

So I went to Lowes (I bought the Maytag there five years ago)
and asked for the product. The guy at Lowes told me that
they no longer sell Maytag water heaters. They now sell
Whirlpool water heaters, and that since they sell this
thermostat, it could be used as a replacement for Whirlpool
electric water heaters. But he did not think it could be used
on my Maytag water heater. he said something like there
are some sort of internal "calibrations" specific to each
brand of water heaters, and I can't simply use some other
thermostats as replacement.

Now I am confused. A thermostat senses the water temperature.
And when the water temperature is below a threshold you
set, it sends a signal to the heating element to heat up the
water. When the temperature in the water goes above the
threshold, it sends a signal to stop the element from
further heating the water. What kind of "internal
"calibrations" are needed for different brands of electric
water heaters?

So I am wonder if anyone can shed some light as to what
replacement thermostat I could use for my water heater.
The Maytag customer support is terrible. The number
printed on the user manual is no longer the right number.

Thanks for any help,

Ted


Yes. A cost of $80 for a thermostat is
outrageous. Your Maytag is probably identical to
Lowe's Whirlpools.

You talked to people that know nothing and you got
nonsense. If you google water heaters online you
will find all sorts of information including test
procedures. Many plumbing and electric shops also
have leaflets that show you how to check the
heaters and the thermostats.

If you listen to people who know nothing, you will
likely come away with nonsense because most
know-nothings can't say, "I don't know."
There are no internal calibrations, what the guy
probably meant is the wiring may be different.

As long as it fits, it is likely to work. If you
find a thermostat that looks like yours with
identical connection points, it will probably work.

On 5 Oct 2006 05:44:31 -0700, "tcl" wrote:

6-year old MayTag electric water heater - 50 gallon, dual element
- Model HE2950T.
About two weeks ago, I had noticed that the hot water was
way too hot. Didn't do anything. One week ago, the high
temperature breaker on the upper thermostat started tripping.
Once I reset the breaker button, it trips again a day later. The
temperature setting on both the upper and lower thermostats is in
the middle of the range.

Googled online and found some info on diagnose the problem.

Here was what I did. Fist I flip the main circuit breaker to cut
off electric power to the water heater. Open both upper and lower
access panels on the heater
1) removed one of the wire connecting to the heating element and
then tested the resistance in between the two probes. My
multi-meter read 10 ohms on both heating elements. So I
concluded that the heating elements are good.
2) I measured the resistance in between the two probes (the two
bolts where wires were connected) on the lower thermostat, and
it read zero. So I concluded that the lower thermostat is good.
3) I did not know how to test the upper thermostat for there are
so many probes...

Anyway, since there only a few things that could go wrong, and
I have eliminated both of the heating elements, the lower
thermostat, then I figure the upper thermostat must be the
culprit. A replacement thermostat from Maytag costs $79.95.
I am not ready to spend so much money on a thermostat...
I found this thermostat online
http://www.waterheaterparts.net/cgi-...words=electsta...
and Lowes does sell it for $12.98.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ductId=26358-0...
I contacted waterheaterparts.com to ask if the thermostat can be
used on my heater. They told me that their product is rather
"universal" for electric water heaters with dual heating
elements and are wired for non-simultaneous operations.
Well I know my model has two heating elements, but I can't tell
if it is wired for "non-simultaneous" opeartions. Neither could they.

So I went to Lowes (I bought the Maytag there five years ago)
and asked for the product. The guy at Lowes told me that
they no longer sell Maytag water heaters. They now sell
Whirlpool water heaters, and that since they sell this
thermostat, it could be used as a replacement for Whirlpool
electric water heaters. But he did not think it could be used
on my Maytag water heater. he said something like there
are some sort of internal "calibrations" specific to each
brand of water heaters, and I can't simply use some other
thermostats as replacement.

Now I am confused. A thermostat senses the water temperature.
And when the water temperature is below a threshold you
set, it sends a signal to the heating element to heat up the
water. When the temperature in the water goes above the
threshold, it sends a signal to stop the element from
further heating the water. What kind of "internal
"calibrations" are needed for different brands of electric
water heaters?

So I am wonder if anyone can shed some light as to what
replacement thermostat I could use for my water heater.
The Maytag customer support is terrible. The number
printed on the user manual is no longer the right number.

Thanks for any help,

Ted

Since your heater is 6 years old it's entirely possible neither of
your thermostats is bad but that the bottom has become so caked with
calcium deposits that water can hardly get to that area anymore. I
have a 6 year old (Whirlpool I think) heater and it has burned out two
bottom heating elements due to calcium buildup. When the calcium
builds up the element gets too hot because the water can't easily get
to it and circulate, then the element starts to overheat and
eventually it will burn thru and short out thru the water tripping the
breaker.

Mine was also a non-simultaneous set up, I think almost all of them
are if they are of any decent size because it would draw a lot of
current to run them both at the same time and its not really necessary
for home use. I don't know but I suspect simultaneous ones would be
used in commercial buildings needing a continuous supply of hot water
over long time periods.

Ashton Crusher wrote:
On 5 Oct 2006 05:44:31 -0700, "tcl" wrote:

6-year old MayTag electric water heater - 50 gallon, dual element
- Model HE2950T.
About two weeks ago, I had noticed that the hot water was
way too hot. Didn't do anything. One week ago, the high
temperature breaker on the upper thermostat started tripping.
Once I reset the breaker button, it trips again a day later. The
temperature setting on both the upper and lower thermostats is in
the middle of the range.

Googled online and found some info on diagnose the problem.

Here was what I did. Fist I flip the main circuit breaker to cut
off electric power to the water heater. Open both upper and lower
access panels on the heater
1) removed one of the wire connecting to the heating element and
then tested the resistance in between the two probes. My
multi-meter read 10 ohms on both heating elements. So I
concluded that the heating elements are good.
2) I measured the resistance in between the two probes (the two
bolts where wires were connected) on the lower thermostat, and
it read zero. So I concluded that the lower thermostat is good.
3) I did not know how to test the upper thermostat for there are
so many probes...

Anyway, since there only a few things that could go wrong, and
I have eliminated both of the heating elements, the lower
thermostat, then I figure the upper thermostat must be the
culprit. A replacement thermostat from Maytag costs $79.95.
I am not ready to spend so much money on a thermostat...
I found this thermostat online
http://www.waterheaterparts.net/cgi-...words=electsta...
and Lowes does sell it for $12.98.
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?actio...ductId=26358-0...
I contacted waterheaterparts.com to ask if the thermostat can be
used on my heater. They told me that their product is rather
"universal" for electric water heaters with dual heating
elements and are wired for non-simultaneous operations.
Well I know my model has two heating elements, but I can't tell
if it is wired for "non-simultaneous" opeartions. Neither could they.

So I went to Lowes (I bought the Maytag there five years ago)
and asked for the product. The guy at Lowes told me that
they no longer sell Maytag water heaters. They now sell
Whirlpool water heaters, and that since they sell this
thermostat, it could be used as a replacement for Whirlpool
electric water heaters. But he did not think it could be used
on my Maytag water heater. he said something like there
are some sort of internal "calibrations" specific to each
brand of water heaters, and I can't simply use some other
thermostats as replacement.

Now I am confused. A thermostat senses the water temperature.
And when the water temperature is below a threshold you
set, it sends a signal to the heating element to heat up the
water. When the temperature in the water goes above the
threshold, it sends a signal to stop the element from
further heating the water. What kind of "internal
"calibrations" are needed for different brands of electric
water heaters?

So I am wonder if anyone can shed some light as to what
replacement thermostat I could use for my water heater.
The Maytag customer support is terrible. The number
printed on the user manual is no longer the right number.

Thanks for any help,

Ted

Since your heater is 6 years old it's entirely possible neither of
your thermostats is bad but that the bottom has become so caked with
calcium deposits that water can hardly get to that area anymore. I
have a 6 year old (Whirlpool I think) heater and it has burned out two
bottom heating elements due to calcium buildup. When the calcium
builds up the element gets too hot because the water can't easily get
to it and circulate, then the element starts to overheat and
eventually it will burn thru and short out thru the water tripping the
breaker.


And how does that explain that he's been getting super hot water? His
problem isn't burned out elements, it's water that's too hot.





Mine was also a non-simultaneous set up, I think almost all of them
are if they are of any decent size because it would draw a lot of
current to run them both at the same time and its not really necessary
for home use. I don't know but I suspect simultaneous ones would be
used in commercial buildings needing a continuous supply of hot water
over long time periods.

And how does that explain that he's been getting super hot water? His
problem isn't burned out elements, it's water that's too hot.



At one time the thermostats only opened one leg of the power so when an
element burned thru the housing the current would flow from the unswitched
leg thru the water to the tank or piping and thus to the ground. This would
continue to slowly heat the water and would overheat the heater if little or
no hot water was being used.

The symptoms would be a combination of inadequate hot water when being used
regularly and overheating when not being used.

Don Young