Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen
in socket. Bulb is 60W and is in one of five sockets on ceiling fan.
Has ceramic "lampshade" which cannot be removed without removing bulb
first. Last time this happened in similar situation the bulb ended
being broken which made a big mess.

Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen in socket.

Turn off light. Put on a leather glove. Hold a bucket under bulb in
case it breaks. Twist bulb. If it breaks, use pliers to get socket
out.

Lena

"Hints to Heloise" or something similar says to use a potato.
Jamb it into/onto the broken glass and lamp base and wind it out.

I have always used a needle nose pliers.
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Frank Thompson" wrote in message
oups.com...
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that
seems to
be frozen
in socket. Bulb is 60W and is in one of five sockets on ceiling
fan.
Has ceramic "lampshade" which cannot be removed without removing
bulb
first. Last time this happened in similar situation the bulb
ended
being broken which made a big mess.

Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen
in socket. Bulb is 60W and is in one of five sockets on ceiling fan.
Has ceramic "lampshade" which cannot be removed without removing bulb
first. Last time this happened in similar situation the bulb ended
being broken which made a big mess.

Well the suggestion made should help you get the lamp out. Once you get
it out, take the rest of them out as well. Now go to the hardware store and
buy new 60W lamps that have real brass threds not aluminum or brass colored
aluminum threads. Those cheaply made (but some times over priced) lamps are
the cause of your problem.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Lena wrote:
Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen in socket.

Turn off light. Put on a leather glove. Hold a bucket under bulb in
case it breaks. Twist bulb. If it breaks, use pliers to get socket
out.

Lena

Good advice from DanG and Lena, but I would add a bit of work for you
(sorry). I would turn the light off at the breaker (not the switch).
After you break the bulb -- and yes, you will break the bulb -- I would
use an electrical tester to check for power before I touched anything.
You can get a cheap tester (they don't cost very much) when you're
going to the store to get replacement bulbs.

In article .com,
"Lena" wrote:

Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen in socket.

Turn off light. Put on a leather glove. Hold a bucket under bulb in
case it breaks. Twist bulb. If it breaks, use pliers to get socket
out.

Before you break the bulb, spray in some penetrating oil or even WD-40
and let it soak overnite. Almost guaranteed to come out EZ if you use
kroil.

--
Free men own guns - www.geocities/CapitolHill/5357/

some sort of dielectric penatrating oil might work, but its best to
just accept beakage and remove with pliers.

Empressess #124457


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Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen
in socket. Bulb is 60W and is in one of five sockets on ceiling fan.
Has ceramic "lampshade" which cannot be removed without removing bulb
first. Last time this happened in similar situation the bulb ended
being broken which made a big mess.

If there is any chance of the bulb breaking, goggles should be worn.


---MIKE---
In the White Mountains of New Hampshire
(44° 15' N - Elevation 1580')

TURN BREAKER OFF! If light is miss wired it can still be hot! and give
nasty shockL(

You might by minature CF compact fluroscents for lower energy bills and
much longer life..........

incidently those fancy flame bulbs break way easier than standard old
time bulbs

I don't know why people are saying things like "wear goggles". If the WD40
idea doesn't work, just put a sock or something over the bulb, break it,
then force the remaining base to unscrew with pliers, or 2 pairs of pliers
(one on each side of the metal base).

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen
in socket. Bulb is 60W and is in one of five sockets on ceiling fan.
Has ceramic "lampshade" which cannot be removed without removing bulb
first. Last time this happened in similar situation the bulb ended
being broken which made a big mess.

Well the suggestion made should help you get the lamp out. Once you
get it out, take the rest of them out as well. Now go to the hardware
store and buy new 60W lamps that have real brass threds not aluminum or
brass colored aluminum threads. Those cheaply made (but some times over
priced) lamps are the cause of your problem.

Great advice. Yes brass based bulbs are less likely to seize. However, try
to find a brass based bulb, it seems there are only a couple of
manufacturers these days and they have all switched to aluminium bases for
most of their bulbs. Sometimes a little silicon grease (not caulk) or other
lubricant will prevent seizing in difficult sockets. The worst combination
is aluminium based bulbs in aluminium sockets, especially in outdoor
fixtures.

DanG spake thus:

"Hints to Heloise" or something similar says to use a potato.
Jamb it into/onto the broken glass and lamp base and wind it out.

I have always used a needle nose pliers.

The other tip I've heard is to jam a carrot in there and twist.


--
Save the Planet
Kill Yourself

- motto of the Church of Euthanasia (http://www.churchofeuthanasia.org/)

On 25 Sep 2006 03:16:21 -0700, "Lena" wrote:


Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen in socket.

Turn off light. Put on a leather glove. Hold a bucket under bulb in
case it breaks. Twist bulb. If it breaks, use pliers to get socket
out.

Lena


Don't forget safety glasses.

later,

tom @ www.FreelancingProjects.com

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 11:48:23 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen
in socket. Bulb is 60W and is in one of five sockets on ceiling fan.
Has ceramic "lampshade" which cannot be removed without removing bulb
first. Last time this happened in similar situation the bulb ended
being broken which made a big mess.

Well the suggestion made should help you get the lamp out. Once you get
it out, take the rest of them out as well. Now go to the hardware store and
buy new 60W lamps that have real brass threds not aluminum or brass colored
aluminum threads. Those cheaply made (but some times over priced) lamps are
the cause of your problem.


I heard bulbs wiped down with a little wd-40 is a good thing. Any
experiences?

later,

tom @ www.NoCostAds.com

Tom The Great wrote:

I heard bulbs wiped down with a little wd-40 is a good thing. Any
experiences?

Oil is much better. WD40 is not billed as a lubricant.

Tom The Great wrote:
On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 11:48:23 GMT, "Joseph Meehan"
wrote:

Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems
to be frozen
in socket. Bulb is 60W and is in one of five sockets on ceiling
fan. Has ceramic "lampshade" which cannot be removed without
removing bulb first. Last time this happened in similar situation
the bulb ended being broken which made a big mess.

Well the suggestion made should help you get the lamp out. Once
you get it out, take the rest of them out as well. Now go to the
hardware store and buy new 60W lamps that have real brass threds not
aluminum or brass colored aluminum threads. Those cheaply made (but
some times over priced) lamps are the cause of your problem.


I heard bulbs wiped down with a little wd-40 is a good thing. Any
experiences?

I would suggest a dielectric grease. You can find it at the auto parts
store. WD-40 is a great water displacement, but it is not a very good lube
and in this case it is not really the lube that is needed, rather the
protection from oxygen and water.


later,

tom @ www.NoCostAds.com



--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

- jeffc wrote:

I don't know why people are saying things like "wear goggles". If the
WD40 idea doesn't work, just put a sock or something over the bulb,
break it, then force the remaining base to unscrew with pliers, or 2
pairs of pliers (one on each side of the metal base).

Because wearing safety glasses is easy to advise and won't do any harm?

I've had some success gently working stubborn bulbs both ways, gradually
unscrewing them. If the bulb breaks, needle-nose pliers have been a simple
fix. I've always managed to use pliers without damaging the socket, so
I've never felt the need to try produce.

"jeffc" wrote in
:

I don't know why people are saying things like "wear goggles". If the
WD40 idea doesn't work, just put a sock or something over the bulb,
break it, then force the remaining base to unscrew with pliers, or 2
pairs of pliers (one on each side of the metal base).




Some day when you get a metal filing,piece of glass or just scratch your
cornea doing general stuff, then you will understand.

If you think it's stupid to wear safety glasses doing this then you should
really get off knowing I sometimes wear safety glasses even when painting.
Not because of paint. Because of bushes & shrubs.

You need to experience (and probably will with your comment) day 1 of a
scratched cornea.

Mark Cato wrote in
:


- jeffc wrote:

I don't know why people are saying things like "wear goggles". If
the WD40 idea doesn't work, just put a sock or something over the
bulb, break it, then force the remaining base to unscrew with
pliers, or 2 pairs of pliers (one on each side of the metal base).

Because wearing safety glasses is easy to advise and won't do any
harm?

I've had some success gently working stubborn bulbs both ways,
gradually unscrewing them. If the bulb breaks, needle-nose pliers
have been a simple fix. I've always managed to use pliers without
damaging the socket, so I've never felt the need to try produce.


Pliers do work 95% of the time just by putting in the socket and pulling
them open while turning. Like you say, the stubborn one you gotta grab
the bulb base.

Man! I swore I killed that breaker!!!! :-)

Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen
in socket. Bulb is 60W and is in one of five sockets on ceiling fan.
Has ceramic "lampshade" which cannot be removed without removing bulb
first. Last time this happened in similar situation the bulb ended
being broken which made a big mess.

A LOT of suggestions about breaking the bulb and using pliers to remove
the base. But if you try this, you'll never use pliers again. When a
bulb breaks and leaves the base in the socket, use another bulb. Push
the bulb base into the broken base and keep pressure on it while
unscrewing. The new bulb base exerts pressure over the whole surface
of the old base, giving enough friction to break the old base loose.
Especially good for deep recessed lamps like floodlights where you
don't have room to manipulate pliers. And it keeps your hands off the
metal portion of the socket.

Bob

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 16:42:26 -0400, Mark Cato
wrote:


- jeffc wrote:

I don't know why people are saying things like "wear goggles". If the
WD40 idea doesn't work, just put a sock or something over the bulb,
break it, then force the remaining base to unscrew with pliers, or 2
pairs of pliers (one on each side of the metal base).

Because wearing safety glasses is easy to advise and won't do any harm?

I've had some success gently working stubborn bulbs both ways, gradually
unscrewing them. If the bulb breaks, needle-nose pliers have been a simple
fix. I've always managed to use pliers without damaging the socket, so
I've never felt the need to try produce.

If the power is still on, you can cook your potatoes and carrots and
have a real nice dinner.

Bob wrote:
When a
bulb breaks and leaves the base in the socket, use another bulb. Push
the bulb base into the broken base and keep pressure on it while
unscrewing.

Wow - sounds like a great idea. Kind of like pliers, except with a
fragile glass handle that's harder to control, and no real grip or
leverage on the old base! You probably shouldn't wear gloves, because
they could keep you from feeling your progress, and you probably
wouldn't want safety glasses either, because they could interfere with
your vision. And be sure to stand on a rocking chair or a swivel stool
to reach the broken bulb. Don't bother turning off the breaker,
either, because who wants to walk all the way down to the basement?
Sheesh.

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 21:21:48 -0500, Al Bundy
wrote:

Mark Cato wrote in
:


- jeffc wrote:

I don't know why people are saying things like "wear goggles". If
the WD40 idea doesn't work, just put a sock or something over the
bulb, break it, then force the remaining base to unscrew with
pliers, or 2 pairs of pliers (one on each side of the metal base).

Because wearing safety glasses is easy to advise and won't do any
harm?

I've had some success gently working stubborn bulbs both ways,
gradually unscrewing them. If the bulb breaks, needle-nose pliers
have been a simple fix. I've always managed to use pliers without
damaging the socket, so I've never felt the need to try produce.


Pliers do work 95% of the time just by putting in the socket and pulling
them open while turning. Like you say, the stubborn one you gotta grab
the bulb base.

Man! I swore I killed that breaker!!!! :-)

Pliers are often too big for the job, not fitting between the base of
the broken bulb and the socket. I've often had to remove broken bulb
bases. I use scissors. Of course, that's not trying to CUT the base,
but using them sideways as thin pliers.
--
90 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"The government of the United States is not, in
any sense, founded on the Christian religion."
-- George Washington

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 21:18:24 -0500, Al Bundy
wrote:

"jeffc" wrote in
m:

I don't know why people are saying things like "wear goggles". If the
WD40 idea doesn't work, just put a sock or something over the bulb,
break it, then force the remaining base to unscrew with pliers, or 2
pairs of pliers (one on each side of the metal base).




Some day when you get a metal filing,piece of glass or just scratch your
cornea doing general stuff, then you will understand.

If you think it's stupid to wear safety glasses doing this then you should
really get off knowing I sometimes wear safety glasses even when painting.
Not because of paint. Because of bushes & shrubs.

You need to experience (and probably will with your comment) day 1 of a
scratched cornea.

Sometimes there IS an advantage to wearing glasses.
--
90 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"The government of the United States is not, in
any sense, founded on the Christian religion."
-- George Washington

wrote:
Bob wrote:
When a
bulb breaks and leaves the base in the socket, use another bulb. Push
the bulb base into the broken base and keep pressure on it while
unscrewing.

Wow - sounds like a great idea. Kind of like pliers, except with a
fragile glass handle that's harder to control, and no real grip or
leverage on the old base! You probably shouldn't wear gloves, because
they could keep you from feeling your progress, and you probably
wouldn't want safety glasses either, because they could interfere with
your vision. And be sure to stand on a rocking chair or a swivel stool
to reach the broken bulb. Don't bother turning off the breaker,
either, because who wants to walk all the way down to the basement?
Sheesh.

Hey dude, don't knock it until you try it! I've done over a hundred
like that and have never had one break in my hand. If you're that
safety conscious, keep an old exterior flood light for the job.

On 25 Sep 2006 02:17:59 -0700, "Frank Thompson"
wrote:

Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen
in socket. Bulb is 60W and is in one of five sockets on ceiling fan.
Has ceramic "lampshade" which cannot be removed without removing bulb
first. Last time this happened in similar situation the bulb ended
being broken which made a big mess.

Turn the power off, break the bulb, and then jam one leg of a pair of
needle nosed pliers between the remains of the bulb and the socket.

Now twist the pliers like you are opening up an old fashioned can of
tuna. The remnants of the bulb should tear and start to wind up on the
nose of the pliers.

mm wrote in
:

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 16:42:26 -0400, Mark Cato
wrote:


- jeffc wrote:

I don't know why people are saying things like "wear goggles". If
the WD40 idea doesn't work, just put a sock or something over the
bulb, break it, then force the remaining base to unscrew with
pliers, or 2 pairs of pliers (one on each side of the metal base).

Because wearing safety glasses is easy to advise and won't do any
harm?

I've had some success gently working stubborn bulbs both ways,
gradually unscrewing them. If the bulb breaks, needle-nose pliers
have been a simple fix. I've always managed to use pliers without
damaging the socket, so I've never felt the need to try produce.

If the power is still on, you can cook your potatoes and carrots and
have a real nice dinner.



lol. Good one.

Mark Lloyd wrote in
:

On Mon, 25 Sep 2006 21:21:48 -0500, Al Bundy
wrote:

Mark Cato wrote in
:


- jeffc wrote:

I don't know why people are saying things like "wear goggles". If
the WD40 idea doesn't work, just put a sock or something over the
bulb, break it, then force the remaining base to unscrew with
pliers, or 2 pairs of pliers (one on each side of the metal base).

Because wearing safety glasses is easy to advise and won't do any
harm?

I've had some success gently working stubborn bulbs both ways,
gradually unscrewing them. If the bulb breaks, needle-nose pliers
have been a simple fix. I've always managed to use pliers without
damaging the socket, so I've never felt the need to try produce.


Pliers do work 95% of the time just by putting in the socket and
pulling them open while turning. Like you say, the stubborn one you
gotta grab the bulb base.

Man! I swore I killed that breaker!!!! :-)

Pliers are often too big for the job, not fitting between the base of
the broken bulb and the socket. I've often had to remove broken bulb
bases. I use scissors. Of course, that's not trying to CUT the base,
but using them sideways as thin pliers.


Lotsa kinds of pliers out there!

wrote in :

On 25 Sep 2006 02:17:59 -0700, "Frank Thompson"
wrote:

Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen
in socket. Bulb is 60W and is in one of five sockets on ceiling fan.
Has ceramic "lampshade" which cannot be removed without removing bulb
first. Last time this happened in similar situation the bulb ended
being broken which made a big mess.

Turn the power off, break the bulb, and then jam one leg of a pair of
needle nosed pliers between the remains of the bulb and the socket.

Now twist the pliers like you are opening up an old fashioned can of
tuna. The remnants of the bulb should tear and start to wind up on the
nose of the pliers.



twist the pliers like you are opening up an old fashioned can of
tuna.

Brings back memories of opening up a can of "chum" down by the river
feeeeshin' :-)

"EXT" wrote in message
anews.com...

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen
in socket. Bulb is 60W and is in one of five sockets on ceiling fan.
Has ceramic "lampshade" which cannot be removed without removing bulb
first. Last time this happened in similar situation the bulb ended
being broken which made a big mess.

Well the suggestion made should help you get the lamp out. Once you
get it out, take the rest of them out as well. Now go to the hardware
store and buy new 60W lamps that have real brass threds not aluminum or
brass colored aluminum threads. Those cheaply made (but some times over
priced) lamps are the cause of your problem.

Great advice. Yes brass based bulbs are less likely to seize. However, try
to find a brass based bulb, it seems there are only a couple of
manufacturers these days and they have all switched to aluminium bases for
most of their bulbs. Sometimes a little silicon grease (not caulk) or
other lubricant will prevent seizing in difficult sockets. The worst
combination


Silicone (grease or spray) and/or dielectric grease is a bad idea - they are
insulators!

Lena wrote:
Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems to
be frozen in socket.

Turn off light. Put on a leather glove.

Use a PVC-coated glove. It will grip the glass far better, so you
don't have to squeeze as hard, greatly increasing your chances of not
breaking the bulb.


How about putting a touch of anti-seize compound on the threads of the
new bulb before installing? Can anyone confirm/refute that? Or, how
about spraying the threads with Molybdenum Disulfide?

Bob M. wrote:
"EXT" wrote in message
anews.com...

"Joseph Meehan" wrote in message
...
Frank Thompson wrote:
Will appreciate any clues on how to remove a light bulb that seems
to be frozen
in socket. Bulb is 60W and is in one of five sockets on ceiling
fan. Has ceramic "lampshade" which cannot be removed without
removing bulb first. Last time this happened in similar situation
the bulb ended being broken which made a big mess.

Well the suggestion made should help you get the lamp out. Once
you get it out, take the rest of them out as well. Now go to the
hardware store and buy new 60W lamps that have real brass threds
not aluminum or brass colored aluminum threads. Those cheaply made
(but some times over priced) lamps are the cause of your problem.

Great advice. Yes brass based bulbs are less likely to seize.
However, try to find a brass based bulb, it seems there are only a
couple of manufacturers these days and they have all switched to
aluminium bases for most of their bulbs. Sometimes a little silicon
grease (not caulk) or other lubricant will prevent seizing in
difficult sockets. The worst combination


Silicone (grease or spray) and/or dielectric grease is a bad idea -
they are insulators!

Dielectric grease is a insulator, but it does not cause a problem with
the electrical connection. It also does not contain any materials that may
corrode common electrical contacts. It forms a barrier to O² H²O and other
possible sources of corrosion while providing a lubricant as well. It is
recommended for light bulbs among other things.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

We had a similar problem. Using some basic science, since metal contracts when cold, we applied a cold pack to the neck of the light arm on the fan light unit until it got cold. Bulb came right out.

--
For full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...et-149359-.htm