I have a main floor powder room that I want to renovate. One item is a new
ceramic floor. It currently has a linoleum floor. I have a couple of
questions. Is it ok to put the new floor over top of the linoleum? Also, if
I use levelling compound, do I have to put a raised edge around the floor
and the toilet drain to stop it from flowing?

In article ,
says...
I have a main floor powder room that I want to renovate. One item is a new
ceramic floor. It currently has a linoleum floor. I have a couple of
questions. Is it ok to put the new floor over top of the linoleum?

I wouldn't (and didn't). I don't like the idea of a hard tile
surface on a softer sub-floor. Tile is enough expense and work to
put down, I'd do the additional work to take up the linoleum (or
vinyl). Things may get diceier if the flooring is asbestos, but
I'd still rip it up (or move).

Also, if
I use levelling compound, do I have to put a raised edge around the floor
and the toilet drain to stop it from flowing?

Dunno, never used it. Tile really doesn't have to be level, only
relatively flat. Thinset is good for leveling too and won't run
down the drain, though I do make sure it's well covered before
using mud around it (getting mud in the works could make for a bad
day).

--
Keith

krw wrote:
In article ,
says...
I have a main floor powder room that I want to renovate. One item is a new
ceramic floor. It currently has a linoleum floor. I have a couple of
questions. Is it ok to put the new floor over top of the linoleum?

I wouldn't (and didn't). I don't like the idea of a hard tile
surface on a softer sub-floor. Tile is enough expense and work to
put down, I'd do the additional work to take up the linoleum (or
vinyl). Things may get diceier if the flooring is asbestos, but
I'd still rip it up (or move).


I agree, rip it up and put down cement board or similar if the subfloor
has any flex at all. Unless you do use the leveling compound.

Also, if
I use levelling compound, do I have to put a raised edge around the floor
and the toilet drain to stop it from flowing?


The leveling compund will flow into cracks and gaps, it is about the
consistency of mustard when it is first mixed. Like Keith said you
don't need it if your floor is flat. If you do use it, mix enough to
do the whole floor in one batch. It needs a little help to self-level,
I used an old broom to spread it out. Also make sure you aren't going
to cause problems with your toilet, if the floor is too high at the
connection it could be difficult to fix.

In article .com,
says...

Also make sure you aren't going
to cause problems with your toilet, if the floor is too high at the
connection it could be difficult to fix.

Shouldn't be too much of a problem. They sell 1/2" extender rings
that fit over the waste flange and thick was seals. I use both
when I tile (w/hardibacker) under my toilets.

--
Keith

I've always gotten good advice on the John Bridge Forum for tile work:
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/forumdisplay.php?f=1

Darrell


"Ultraglide" wrote in message
...
I have a main floor powder room that I want to renovate. One item is a new
ceramic floor. It currently has a linoleum floor. I have a couple of
questions. Is it ok to put the new floor over top of the linoleum? Also,
if I use levelling compound, do I have to put a raised edge around the
floor and the toilet drain to stop it from flowing?

I don't know what they call it but I have seen the flexible rubber?
extenders that go over the horn and fit down the drain pipe. Anyone used
one of these instead of the extender rings or thicker seals.
"krw" wrote in message
t...
In article .com,
says...

Also make sure you aren't going
to cause problems with your toilet, if the floor is too high at the
connection it could be difficult to fix.

Shouldn't be too much of a problem. They sell 1/2" extender rings
that fit over the waste flange and thick was seals. I use both
when I tile (w/hardibacker) under my toilets.

--
Keith

Ultraglide wrote:
I don't know what they call it but I have seen the flexible rubber?
extenders that go over the horn and fit down the drain pipe. Anyone used
one of these instead of the extender rings or thicker seals.

They work too. As for the linoleum either rip it up or leave it but in
any case put down a cement board. I prefer using a quarter inch
hardibacker. I use 1-1/4 inch galvanized roofing nails. Put down ever
six inches on the dots, that tile isn't going to move. Even with
preparation the tile will eventually work loose from linoleum.

Anyone tried the rubber (I think) rings that go over the toilet horn and fit
down into the drain? Do they work?
"krw" wrote in message
t...
In article .com,
says...

Also make sure you aren't going
to cause problems with your toilet, if the floor is too high at the
connection it could be difficult to fix.

Shouldn't be too much of a problem. They sell 1/2" extender rings
that fit over the waste flange and thick was seals. I use both
when I tile (w/hardibacker) under my toilets.

--
Keith