What's the "correct" way to cut 2x4's with a circular saw using a pair
of foldable sawhorses? I need to make a straight cut in a way that
won't bind the blade, so any suggestions for a setup will be
appreciated.

Also, any suggestions for lopping off 2x4's and dividing up plywood on
the grass?

seems pretty simple, Dave - assuming you're not a troll. Bottom line in any
wood cutting is to support large peices so they don't move during the
cutting, which causes the blade to bind.

For the 2x4 cuts: place the LONGEST peice across the 2 sawhorses, leaving
the shorter end hanging free. Make your cut allowing the short end to fall
free. Never try to cut the peive BETWEEN the two sawhorses. If the short
end is longer than a few inches it might be best to have a helper steady
that peice as it is cut. They should not lift, pull, twist or otherwise try
to move that end or it will bind. they should only allow the peice to rest
on their hands and catch it as it falls free.

I prefer when cutting 2x4 ( or 2 x anything) to take the work closer to the
ground. Place the peice to be cut across another 2x4 or scrap so the
distance between the peice being cut and the ground is only a couple inches.
That way the peice doesn't fall as far and is less likely to split or bind.

For the Plywood: I assume you are talking cutting a 4'x8' sheeet? Try
placing a couple of your 2/4's under it. Assuming you don't care about a
few small curfs in the 2x4's, set your blade just slightly deeper than the
thickness of the plywood. and cut across the 2x4's allowing them to support
the plywood as you cut.

Oh, and one last thing - as you place the saw to the work - but before you
pull the trigger - look at what is directly BEHIND the saw. Any hands,
feet, power cords, tools, kids, etc. within 5 feet of the back edge of the
blade are at risk of being hit and/or cut if the saw binds and kicks back.
Most people are so intent on watching what is in FRONT of the saw, they
forget that the back edge of the blade is just as sharp!




"Daves" wrote in message
...
What's the "correct" way to cut 2x4's with a circular saw using a pair
of foldable sawhorses? I need to make a straight cut in a way that
won't bind the blade, so any suggestions for a setup will be
appreciated.

Also, any suggestions for lopping off 2x4's and dividing up plywood on
the grass?

Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll Troll
Troll Troll

need at least 3 sawhorses

2 to hold on the uncut side and one for the part being cut off.

he isnt a troll he just knows enough to ask a intelligent question

On Mon, 29 May 2006 08:33:23 -0500, Daves wrote:

What's the "correct" way to cut 2x4's with a circular saw using a pair
of foldable sawhorses? I need to make a straight cut in a way that
won't bind the blade, so any suggestions for a setup will be
appreciated.

Also, any suggestions for lopping off 2x4's and dividing up plywood on
the grass?

Support the 2x4 (or any stock for that matter) such that both pieces
are adequately supported following the cut. If the cut-off piece is
small, there is no need to support the small piece. If the stock
sags while the saw it cutting, you might experience dangerous
kickback. It is a good idea to think about safety for a few seconds
before each cut.

Daves wrote:

What's the "correct" way to cut 2x4's with a circular saw using a pair
of foldable sawhorses? I need to make a straight cut in a way that
won't bind the blade, so any suggestions for a setup will be
appreciated.

Also, any suggestions for lopping off 2x4's and dividing up plywood on
the grass?
Hi,
If accuracy is must, use mitre saw.

wrote in message
ps.com...
need at least 3 sawhorses

2 to hold on the uncut side and one for the part being cut off.

he isnt a troll he just knows enough to ask a intelligent question


So this would be a Mean Post

" The best method for the 2X4 would be a hand saw with a laser guide, The
plywood on the lawn is a no brainier Put a 7 1/4" circular saw blade in a
gas lawn edger. If you lay the plywood just right you can cut the plywood
and edge the lawn all in one shot."

In that case Remember one thing The blade Cannot tell meat from wood. If
your not familiar with circular saws get help or have the pieces precut. (
plywood can have a tendency to kick back) Someone I work with just had a
skill saw run up his leg. Just take your time more fingers have been lost to
over confidence.

On Mon, 29 May 2006 14:20:53 GMT, "Mark" wrote:

seems pretty simple, Dave - assuming you're not a troll. Bottom line in any
wood cutting is to support large peices so they don't move during the
cutting, which causes the blade to bind.

For the 2x4 cuts: place the LONGEST peice across the 2 sawhorses, leaving
the shorter end hanging free. Make your cut allowing the short end to fall
free. Never try to cut the peive BETWEEN the two sawhorses. If the short
end is longer than a few inches it might be best to have a helper steady
that peice as it is cut. They should not lift, pull, twist or otherwise try
to move that end or it will bind. they should only allow the peice to rest
on their hands and catch it as it falls free.

I prefer when cutting 2x4 ( or 2 x anything) to take the work closer to the
ground. Place the peice to be cut across another 2x4 or scrap so the
distance between the peice being cut and the ground is only a couple inches.
That way the peice doesn't fall as far and is less likely to split or bind.

What's a good setup to guide the saw so it makes a straight cut across
the 2x4? (Doesn't have to be perfectly straight like a table saw, but
better than eyeballing...)

On 29 May 2006 08:02:40 -0700, "
wrote:

need at least 3 sawhorses

2 to hold on the uncut side and one for the part being cut off.

Wouldn't this require cutting between two sawhorses (between the first
and second)?

"Daves" wrote in message
...
On 29 May 2006 08:02:40 -0700, "
wrote:

need at least 3 sawhorses

2 to hold on the uncut side and one for the part being cut off.

Wouldn't this require cutting between two sawhorses (between the first
and second)?

For the 2x4 let the end your cutting off drop, you want one end floating
so you do not bind the blade.
The ply wood would be easiest to cut on the saw horses ( guessing your
cutting 4 by 8 sheets) Buy 4 extra 8' 2X4 lay them on saw horses to make a
table set the blade to cute about 1/4" threw ply.. If your plywood cuts need
to be decent you can clamp a straight edge on the plywood as a guide. hold
the edge of the saw table against the straight edge you just have to measure
the blade off set from the table edge and set you straight edge accordingly.

In article ,
says...
On Mon, 29 May 2006 14:20:53 GMT, "Mark" wrote:

seems pretty simple, Dave - assuming you're not a troll. Bottom line in any
wood cutting is to support large peices so they don't move during the
cutting, which causes the blade to bind.

For the 2x4 cuts: place the LONGEST peice across the 2 sawhorses, leaving
the shorter end hanging free. Make your cut allowing the short end to fall
free. Never try to cut the peive BETWEEN the two sawhorses. If the short
end is longer than a few inches it might be best to have a helper steady
that peice as it is cut. They should not lift, pull, twist or otherwise try
to move that end or it will bind. they should only allow the peice to rest
on their hands and catch it as it falls free.

I prefer when cutting 2x4 ( or 2 x anything) to take the work closer to the
ground. Place the peice to be cut across another 2x4 or scrap so the
distance between the peice being cut and the ground is only a couple inches.
That way the peice doesn't fall as far and is less likely to split or bind.

What's a good setup to guide the saw so it makes a straight cut across
the 2x4? (Doesn't have to be perfectly straight like a table saw, but
better than eyeballing...)

With your opposite (left for me) hand, hold the 2x4 and a "speed
square" against the edge of the 2x4. With your "correct" hand
guide the circular saw against that.

--
Keith

On Mon, 29 May 2006 16:01:08 GMT, "Sacramento Dave"
wrote:


"Daves" wrote in message
.. .
On 29 May 2006 08:02:40 -0700, "
wrote:

need at least 3 sawhorses

2 to hold on the uncut side and one for the part being cut off.

Wouldn't this require cutting between two sawhorses (between the first
and second)?

For the 2x4 let the end your cutting off drop, you want one end floating
so you do not bind the blade.
The ply wood would be easiest to cut on the saw horses ( guessing your
cutting 4 by 8 sheets) Buy 4 extra 8' 2X4 lay them on saw horses to make a
table set the blade to cute about 1/4" threw ply.. If your plywood cuts need
to be decent you can clamp a straight edge on the plywood as a guide. hold
the edge of the saw table against the straight edge you just have to measure
the blade off set from the table edge and set you straight edge accordingly.


Thanks for your reply. So do I lay these 4 8' 2x4's under the plywood
and parallel to the length of the plywood and use them as
"sacrificial" support (since 1/4" will be cut into them), or do I use
them and form a square frame under and around the plywood if that's
what you meant by "table"? Just wanted to clarify.

Use an angle square for a straight cut if you are having difficulty doing
free hand. Hold or clamp it to the board to the left of the saw assuming you
are right handed and use it as a guide for the footplate of the saw after
lining up the blade to the cut mark. One side of the angle square has a lip
on it to make it easy to hold firm against the board. Below is a link to
what an angle square is if you are not sure. If you clamp it be sure the
clamp will not get in the way of the saw. I usually hold the angle
square/board with my left hand and use my right hand to operate the saw.
If you are going to be doing many cuts create a template for the distance
between the cut line and distance to angle square edge so that you can
quickly determine where to position the angle square edge.--- Steve

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...t=%2A&v=glance

"Daves" wrote in message
...

What's a good setup to guide the saw so it makes a straight cut across
the 2x4? (Doesn't have to be perfectly straight like a table saw, but
better than eyeballing...)

On Mon, 29 May 2006 15:37:58 GMT, "Sacramento Dave"
wrote:


wrote in message
ups.com...
need at least 3 sawhorses

2 to hold on the uncut side and one for the part being cut off.

he isnt a troll he just knows enough to ask a intelligent question


So this would be a Mean Post

" The best method for the 2X4 would be a hand saw with a laser guide, The
plywood on the lawn is a no brainier Put a 7 1/4" circular saw blade in a
gas lawn edger. If you lay the plywood just right you can cut the plywood
and edge the lawn all in one shot."

In that case Remember one thing The blade Cannot tell meat from wood.

This one can:
http://www.sawstop.com/

If
your not familiar with circular saws get help or have the pieces precut. (
plywood can have a tendency to kick back) Someone I work with just had a
skill saw run up his leg. Just take your time more fingers have been lost to
over confidence.