Hiya Folks,
I'm planning on pulling a permit to install a branch circuit to drive a new
refrigerated A/C compressor. Before I go to the inspector's office I'd
like your opinions on my plan.

I currently have a 125A (rated) panel feeding the house with a 100A Main
breaker. I plan to check the feeders on this to see if I can bump the Main
up to a 125A breaker. I can change a few breaker's around and get room for
a 220 double breaker. I should be ok from a total amperage standpoint as I
don't use the dryer circuit and am on a gas range but by bumping up to the
125A, I'd be able to leave those intact, I believe. The electrical specs on
the compressor say the RLA (Rated Load Amps) is 20.2, the LRA (Locked Rotor
Amps) is 137 A, the Fuse or HACR Breaker Min is 35 A and Max is 45 A. I
figure I'll put in a 40 A/220V breaker and run a 6/3 THHN feeder via conduit
to the location of the compressor approx. 40 ft. away. I understand I
could probably use 8/3 but just in case I ever want to upsize, I figure the
extra cost of the 6/3 is minimal for the length of run. The feeder would
terminate in a fused disconnect mounted on a unistrut frame with Double
Element fuses sized at 175% of RLA (Time Delay fuses) so they would be 35 A.
From there, I'd continue with the feeder to the equipment via flex. Does
this sound like I'm on the right track? I still have to figure what size
conduit (1/2" would prolly work as there will minimal 90's but 3/4 might
just be easier to deal with) and I'm still a little shaky on the fuse size.
I didn't count the Fan Motor Full Load Amps (1.2A) so that would move the
fuse up to 37.45A so I'd probably have to stick with the 35A fuses. Am I
figuring this correctly?

I've given myself a headache searching all the articles in the codebook but
hope I'm on the right track here. Ultimately, the inspector will be the
judge but I appreciate any advice you may have.
Cheers,
cc

James "Cubby" Culbertson writes:

Ultimately, the inspector will be the
judge but I appreciate any advice you may have.

If you're not using the amperage for dryer or range, I wouldn't bother
upgrading the main. Mothball the circuits, and do the upgrade later if you
revert those appliances to electric.

I would not depend on the inspector to check all the analysis.

put thin breakers in if you have too, to keep the unused dryer and
stove lines intact for a future home sale 100 amp should be OK.....

IUf you upgrade your service go to 200 amps

I wouldn't bother with the 125 amp main unless you found you needed it, and
the wire size probably wouldn't take it. Use larger conduit than you think
you need. You'll need a mortgage right now for the wire, and I wouldn't
bother with a fused disconnect, unless a local code requires it, just use a
60 amp pullout. The 40 amp main will protect it as per the specs



"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message
...
Hiya Folks,
I'm planning on pulling a permit to install a branch circuit to drive a
new refrigerated A/C compressor. Before I go to the inspector's office
I'd like your opinions on my plan.

I currently have a 125A (rated) panel feeding the house with a 100A Main
breaker. I plan to check the feeders on this to see if I can bump the
Main up to a 125A breaker. I can change a few breaker's around and get
room for a 220 double breaker. I should be ok from a total amperage
standpoint as I don't use the dryer circuit and am on a gas range but by
bumping up to the 125A, I'd be able to leave those intact, I believe. The
electrical specs on the compressor say the RLA (Rated Load Amps) is 20.2,
the LRA (Locked Rotor Amps) is 137 A, the Fuse or HACR Breaker Min is 35 A
and Max is 45 A. I figure I'll put in a 40 A/220V breaker and run a 6/3
THHN feeder via conduit to the location of the compressor approx. 40 ft.
away. I understand I could probably use 8/3 but just in case I ever want
to upsize, I figure the extra cost of the 6/3 is minimal for the length of
run. The feeder would terminate in a fused disconnect mounted on a
unistrut frame with Double Element fuses sized at 175% of RLA (Time Delay
fuses) so they would be 35 A. From there, I'd continue with the feeder to
the equipment via flex. Does this sound like I'm on the right track?
I still have to figure what size conduit (1/2" would prolly work as there
will minimal 90's but 3/4 might just be easier to deal with) and I'm still
a little shaky on the fuse size. I didn't count the Fan Motor Full Load
Amps (1.2A) so that would move the fuse up to 37.45A so I'd probably have
to stick with the 35A fuses. Am I figuring this correctly?

I've given myself a headache searching all the articles in the codebook
but hope I'm on the right track here. Ultimately, the inspector will be
the judge but I appreciate any advice you may have.
Cheers,
cc

wrote in message
ups.com...
put thin breakers in if you have too, to keep the unused dryer and
stove lines intact for a future home sale 100 amp should be OK.....

I agree. I really don't want wires hanging around so to speak. I'm not
so sure on the 100A service though. My biggest concern is in addition to
the 40A A/C unit, the other "large" appliance is a 3hp. cabinet saw and my
well pump. I haven't gotten out there to measure up or even pull the panel
cover yet so who knows what I'll come up with!


IUf you upgrade your service go to 200 amps


That would be ideal, and expensive. I'm not sure the feeders from the
transformer at the street are sized for 200A which would mean a pretty
expensive run of wire not to mention the whole new load center. At this
moment, I'm trying to stretch this one as far as I can safely until I build
my shop. At that point, the house will in essence become a subpanel and
the main power will be feeding from the shop. I of course probably won't
be building a shop for a few years but that's the plan at the moment now.
Cheers,
cc

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
I wouldn't bother with the 125 amp main unless you found you needed it, and
the wire size probably wouldn't take it. Use larger conduit than you think
you need. You'll need a mortgage right now for the wire, and I wouldn't
bother with a fused disconnect, unless a local code requires it, just use a
60 amp pullout. The 40 amp main will protect it as per the specs

Good advice on the conduit. I've tried to pull tight runs before and it's
a nightmare. As well, my code doesn't require a fused disconnect so the
pullout style might just be the way to go.
Cheers,
cc

"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message
news

wrote in message
ups.com...
put thin breakers in if you have too, to keep the unused dryer and
stove lines intact for a future home sale 100 amp should be OK.....

I agree. I really don't want wires hanging around so to speak. I'm not
so sure on the 100A service though. My biggest concern is in addition to
the 40A A/C unit, the other "large" appliance is a 3hp. cabinet saw and my
well pump. I haven't gotten out there to measure up or even pull the
panel cover yet so who knows what I'll come up with!


IUf you upgrade your service go to 200 amps


That would be ideal, and expensive. I'm not sure the feeders from the
transformer at the street are sized for 200A which would mean a pretty
expensive run of wire not to mention the whole new load center. At this
moment, I'm trying to stretch this one as far as I can safely until I
build my shop. At that point, the house will in essence become a
subpanel and the main power will be feeding from the shop. I of course
probably won't be building a shop for a few years but that's the plan at
the moment now.
Cheers,
cc

I just upgraded from 100 amp to 200 amp panel. Total cost less than $500
for permit, electrician, parts, inspection. Electric company was no charge
for up to 400 feet and I'm only 150 feet from transformer. So, check with
your electric company. Might not be as expensive as you think. Electric
company has incentive to provide a way for you to use more of their product.

Bob

All situations are different, but in NY your garden variety overhead 200 amp
service goes for $2000-$2500



"RobertM" wrote in message
...

"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message
news

wrote in message
ups.com...
put thin breakers in if you have too, to keep the unused dryer and
stove lines intact for a future home sale 100 amp should be OK.....

I agree. I really don't want wires hanging around so to speak. I'm
not so sure on the 100A service though. My biggest concern is in
addition to the 40A A/C unit, the other "large" appliance is a 3hp.
cabinet saw and my well pump. I haven't gotten out there to measure up
or even pull the panel cover yet so who knows what I'll come up with!


IUf you upgrade your service go to 200 amps


That would be ideal, and expensive. I'm not sure the feeders from the
transformer at the street are sized for 200A which would mean a pretty
expensive run of wire not to mention the whole new load center. At this
moment, I'm trying to stretch this one as far as I can safely until I
build my shop. At that point, the house will in essence become a
subpanel and the main power will be feeding from the shop. I of course
probably won't be building a shop for a few years but that's the plan at
the moment now.
Cheers,
cc

I just upgraded from 100 amp to 200 amp panel. Total cost less than
$500 for permit, electrician, parts, inspection. Electric company was no
charge for up to 400 feet and I'm only 150 feet from transformer. So,
check with your electric company. Might not be as expensive as you think.
Electric company has incentive to provide a way for you to use more of
their product.

Bob

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
All situations are different, but in NY your garden variety overhead 200
amp service goes for $2000-$2500



Rural Tennessee, the poverty capital of the country. If they
charged that much here, we'd still be using candles.

Bob

Put a junction box on the dryer circuit, and run it from there to the
AC. Take off the dryer socket. Sounds like he's gonna need 10 wire,
and 30 amp breaker for the outdoor unit.

What did you read in the book that came with the unit? What wire size,
and breaker does the book reccomend?

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
..

"Richard J Kinch" wrote in message
. ..
James "Cubby" Culbertson writes:

Ultimately, the inspector will be the
judge but I appreciate any advice you may have.

If you're not using the amperage for dryer or range, I wouldn't bother
upgrading the main. Mothball the circuits, and do the upgrade later
if you
revert those appliances to electric.

I would not depend on the inspector to check all the analysis.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Put a junction box on the dryer circuit, and run it from there to the
AC. Take off the dryer socket. Sounds like he's gonna need 10 wire,
and 30 amp breaker for the outdoor unit.

What did you read in the book that came with the unit? What wire size,
and breaker does the book reccomend?

--

Christopher A. Young
You can't shout down a troll.
You have to starve them.
.

I haven't got the unit yet just what I found on the web from the Mfg. A 30
A is too small according to the Mfg. (mentioned the Min size as 35A in my
OP).
Cheers,
cc

"RobertM" wrote in message
...

I just upgraded from 100 amp to 200 amp panel. Total cost less than
$500 for permit, electrician, parts, inspection. Electric company was no
charge for up to 400 feet and I'm only 150 feet from transformer. So,
check with your electric company. Might not be as expensive as you think.
Electric company has incentive to provide a way for you to use more of
their product.

Bob


Wow! I can't imagine getting that for under a grand. My feed into the
house is underground and I'm not sure how much they'd charge to upgrade that
if necessary. I may pop off the panel cover today and see if I can read
the feeder size into the panel. Upgrading would sure make a lot of sense
but I just can't see spending a fortune on it right now.
Cheers,
cc

You may want to contact the utility company regarding an upgrade. If the
utility company "owns" the wires feeding your meter, they may elect to leave
them at whatever size they are and just allow you to increase the size from
the meter into your panel and upgrade the main breaker



"James "Cubby" Culbertson" wrote in message
...

"RobertM" wrote in message
...

I just upgraded from 100 amp to 200 amp panel. Total cost less than
$500 for permit, electrician, parts, inspection. Electric company was no
charge for up to 400 feet and I'm only 150 feet from transformer. So,
check with your electric company. Might not be as expensive as you think.
Electric company has incentive to provide a way for you to use more of
their product.

Bob


Wow! I can't imagine getting that for under a grand. My feed into the
house is underground and I'm not sure how much they'd charge to upgrade
that if necessary. I may pop off the panel cover today and see if I can
read the feeder size into the panel. Upgrading would sure make a lot of
sense but I just can't see spending a fortune on it right now.
Cheers,
cc

"RBM" rbm2(remove wrote in message
...
You may want to contact the utility company regarding an upgrade. If the
utility company "owns" the wires feeding your meter, they may elect to
leave them at whatever size they are and just allow you to increase the
size from the meter into your panel and upgrade the main breaker


Yeah, I thought of calling them tomorrow. I priced out panels and lordy,
it's cheaper to upgrade to a 200A service than it would be to buy a main
breaker and the 220V/40A breaker. I've never changed out a full panel
before and I take it kind of slow when doing electrical so not sure I can
pull off the upgrade myself without being in the dark for a night
Cheers,
cc