Any ideas? (I'm in UK) Boiler has a Bentone electro oil Inter10
pl10/4 pump/burner assembly
This symptom doesn't seem to be listed anywhere. (commonly seems to be
cutting out within 30 secs or so). The tank filter has not been changed

in 18 years(!!) but when fitting a new plastic tank 5 years back paper
filter looked perfectly clean and no sediment in botttom of glass bowl
so I left as was.( probably rinsed it in fuel)
Photocell is clean, fuel is flowing ( not sure if fast enough, firing
rate stated as 40ml/minute and would certainly seem to easily match
that) .
Some sediment appeared in the first jamjar of oil after disconnecting
flexihose at boiler. 2nd jamjar seems to be clear. I assume this may
have been debris from the hose perhaps although it was a browny colour
and looked like tiny bits of chipboard !! No evidence of water or air
in these samples. I guess I should just
change the tank paper filter although it still looks clean and whilst a
second run off of oil at the boiler end produced some more sediment
that which came directly out of the filter bowl outlet was clean.
My user notes for the boiler state that there is an internal filter for

the pump but I have no idea where this might be if anyone can help in
the pump filters location and what to undo to look at the oil pump
itself I'd be very grateful,
thanks
PS The nozzle is original I think and would like to replace. How do I
establish which danfoss series ( ie H,EH, S,ES orB) nozzle I need, I
found the size specification somewhere but not to hand at the moment.

It has always been my experience that burner cutouts are caused by oil
flow/atomization interuption.

This leads to two areas to check, filters, and nozzles

My standard pratice is to replace both, once every year.
Here in the states, (Pennsylvania) filter and nozzle set with tax comes
to $10US,......cheap insurance.

The pump filter you asked about is located as an assembly to the pump.
Where you disconnected the 'flex-hose' to obtain your samples.....
You should see a round end that has 4 bolts on newer, and up to a dozen
on older models, take that apart, but go slowly, you don't want to tear
the gasket.
Inside you'll find a metal strainer basket, clean/reinstall

Nozzle:
Series/GPH are usually stamped on nozzle.

If you can afford to have unit down for a while. Take nozzle/electrode
assembly out, It can be taken out by flipping the transformer....go to
your supplier get matched replacements for both, and reinstall. Believe
me, after 18/13yrs. their both shot. electrode set $20US

Make sure you have measurements for the electrodes, the tips need to be
a particular distance from the nozzle, for the spray to fire and
maintain fire, until ignition.
you can rotate/move them before clamping, then final setting can be
done by bending carefully if needed.

And pick up enough heating oil conditioner for tank,
their $15US for two 8oz.bottles that'll do a 275gal. tank here.

I'll check back later........have ta' go now, an install a mower deck
belt.......Sky

sky wrote:
It has always been my experience that burner cutouts are caused by oil
flow/atomization interuption.

This leads to two areas to check, filters, and nozzles

My standard pratice is to replace both, once every year.
Here in the states, (Pennsylvania) filter and nozzle set with tax comes
to $10US,......cheap insurance.

The pump filter you asked about is located as an assembly to the pump.
Where you disconnected the 'flex-hose' to obtain your samples.....
You should see a round end that has 4 bolts on newer, and up to a dozen
on older models, take that apart, but go slowly, you don't want to tear
the gasket.
Inside you'll find a metal strainer basket, clean/reinstall

Nozzle:
Series/GPH are usually stamped on nozzle.

If you can afford to have unit down for a while. Take nozzle/electrode
assembly out, It can be taken out by flipping the transformer....go to
your supplier get matched replacements for both, and reinstall. Believe
me, after 18/13yrs. their both shot. electrode set $20US

Make sure you have measurements for the electrodes, the tips need to be
a particular distance from the nozzle, for the spray to fire and
maintain fire, until ignition.
you can rotate/move them before clamping, then final setting can be
done by bending carefully if needed.

And pick up enough heating oil conditioner for tank,
their $15US for two 8oz.bottles that'll do a 275gal. tank here.

I'll check back later........have ta' go now, an install a mower deck
belt.......Sky


Thanks for your reply, couple of Q's. If I replace the nozzle with an
identical spec item will I need to reset pressure and air valve
settings? I thought not but the one reply I have just had on a UK based
newsgroup seems to sugest that it would be necessary. I'm hoping to
avoid as I dont have the instruments. (Reason I have done my own
vacumming out of boiler for last 14 years is that that was all my
manintenance man ever did, never once saw a gas anlalyser etc ! :-)
Re pump strainer, only 2 allen style bolts on my UK 19kw/65000bthu pump
/burner assembly, does removing these reveal the pump workings
underneath? Is it easy to reassemble? Just worried about springs or
watever jumping out of a high pressure pump and not knowing how to
reassemble!! :-)
Thanks

wrote in message
oups.com...
Any ideas? (I'm in UK) Boiler has a Bentone electro oil Inter10
pl10/4 pump/burner assembly
This symptom doesn't seem to be listed anywhere. (commonly seems to be
cutting out within 30 secs or so). The tank filter has not been changed

in 18 years(!!) but when fitting a new plastic tank 5 years back paper
filter looked perfectly clean and no sediment in botttom of glass bowl
so I left as was.( probably rinsed it in fuel)
Photocell is clean, fuel is flowing ( not sure if fast enough, firing
rate stated as 40ml/minute and would certainly seem to easily match
that) .
Some sediment appeared in the first jamjar of oil after disconnecting
flexihose at boiler. 2nd jamjar seems to be clear. I assume this may
have been debris from the hose perhaps although it was a browny colour
and looked like tiny bits of chipboard !! No evidence of water or air
in these samples. I guess I should just
change the tank paper filter although it still looks clean and whilst a
second run off of oil at the boiler end produced some more sediment
that which came directly out of the filter bowl outlet was clean.
My user notes for the boiler state that there is an internal filter for

the pump but I have no idea where this might be if anyone can help in
the pump filters location and what to undo to look at the oil pump
itself I'd be very grateful,
thanks
PS The nozzle is original I think and would like to replace. How do I
establish which danfoss series ( ie H,EH, S,ES orB) nozzle I need, I
found the size specification somewhere but not to hand at the moment.


You might want to carefully give the motor a few taps when it is in "lock
out" mode to see if the motor spins up and the furnace fires. I've seen
first hand where the motor gets weak and causes the furnace to stall or not
fire. It is a cheap check, kind of like an automotive starter check, unless
of course you rap on it to hard and crack something! FWIW I use a
screwdriver and tap/rap the plastic handle end on the motor.....

If I replace the nozzle with an
identical spec item will I need to reset pressure and air valve
settings? I thought not but the one reply I have just had on a UK based

newsgroup seems to sugest that it would be necessary. I'm hoping to
avoid as I dont have the instruments.

No, I would think not also, I never have.

(Reason I have done my own
vacumming out of boiler for last 14 years is that that was all my
manintenance man ever did, never once saw a gas anlalyser etc ! :-)

If the maint. man was from oil co. then there was misconceptions about
service.......Here, the analizing is included with the cleaning, the
two go hand in hand. At least with my Oil Co.
I still have the man come in about every third year to clean and check
with the instruments.

Re pump strainer, only 2 allen style bolts on my UK 19kw/65000bthu pump
/burner assembly, does removing these reveal the pump workings
underneath? Just worried about springs or
watever jumping out of a high pressure pump and not knowing how to
reassemble!! :-)

There has to be more than 2 bolts check:

http://heating.danfoss.com/PCM/Prese...96F8&MenuID=54

If that doesn't work, use one below and drill down to oil pump page....

http://heating.danfoss.com

Click on pump model in menu then on tech page.......From what I saw
there where no springs, etc.. The pressure is created by the speed of
the motor driving the oil through the pumps inner workings.....did ya
ever see a cars oil pump? it has a five lobed rotor in a four lobed
stator... the cam action is what produces the pressure.
If your talkin' 'bout those two large bolts at upper middle, they'r not
part of bolting the pump together..... look at the four smaller one's
around the perimeter.....The bolts for dissasembly are always located
near/at the perimeter.


Is it easy to reassemble?
Just as easy as taking it apart.......If you don't tear that gasket!

Check around on that main/home page I didn't check.....but there might
be better diagrams located eleswhere.

Some others:
http://www.bentone.se/eng/index.html
http://www.heating-parts.co.uk/Catalogue.asp?PrGrp=122

Later........Sky

sky wrote:

If I replace the nozzle with an
identical spec item will I need to reset pressure and air valve
settings? I thought not but the one reply I have just had on a UK based

newsgroup seems to sugest that it would be necessary. I'm hoping to
avoid as I dont have the instruments.

No, I would think not also, I never have.

(Reason I have done my own
vacumming out of boiler for last 14 years is that that was all my
manintenance man ever did, never once saw a gas anlalyser etc ! :-)

If the maint. man was from oil co. then there was misconceptions about
service.......Here, the analizing is included with the cleaning, the
two go hand in hand. At least with my Oil Co.
I still have the man come in about every third year to clean and check
with the instruments.

Re pump strainer, only 2 allen style bolts on my UK 19kw/65000bthu pump
/burner assembly, does removing these reveal the pump workings
underneath? Just worried about springs or
watever jumping out of a high pressure pump and not knowing how to
reassemble!! :-)

There has to be more than 2 bolts check:

http://heating.danfoss.com/PCM/Prese...96F8&MenuID=54

If that doesn't work, use one below and drill down to oil pump page....

http://heating.danfoss.com

Click on pump model in menu then on tech page.......From what I saw
there where no springs, etc.. The pressure is created by the speed of
the motor driving the oil through the pumps inner workings.....did ya
ever see a cars oil pump? it has a five lobed rotor in a four lobed
stator... the cam action is what produces the pressure.
If your talkin' 'bout those two large bolts at upper middle, they'r not
part of bolting the pump together..... look at the four smaller one's
around the perimeter.....The bolts for dissasembly are always located
near/at the perimeter.


Is it easy to reassemble?
Just as easy as taking it apart.......If you don't tear that gasket!

Check around on that main/home page I didn't check.....but there might
be better diagrams located eleswhere.

Some others:
http://www.bentone.se/eng/index.html
http://www.heating-parts.co.uk/Catalogue.asp?PrGrp=122

Later........Sky


Thanks for your help Sky, noticed you've visited the uk diy group and
posted re my Q. I've just posted this response there now. I''m having
problems!! Any comments welcome

-------As posted to UK DIY----
An update on progress, replaced nozzle,tank filter and hose to pump.
Problem!! ----Flow rate out of open hose was now just a dribble. it
turned out there was masses more of the brown debris in the pipe run
from tank to boiler. ( I wonder if this was the paper filter
disintegrating although not visible in the bowl).As it was there before
not sure why the flow rate went right down. I think flow rate is now
back to as before ( blew through from disconnected pipe at tank end
and then mucho jamjars of purging. (got debris to flow by removing hose
at boiler which allowed for lower drain off point ). After seeing all
this crud I felt sure the poump strainer must have plenty in it. I took
the plunge and undid the 2 allenbolts and removed the pump assembly.
(MSLAO32) The circular strainer gauze was visible and was covered in
crud. Cleaned up and reassembled. Did not see any gasket at time of
removal, just a large o ring which remained in place on the remaining
part of the pump body. Connected up and oh dear, leaking badly from
pump, not sure exaclty where from. I recieved a number of rubber
gaskets with my paper filter but felt the originals were fine and
bedded down nicely.I also found one gasket which MIGHT have dropped of
the pump body at the time of removal approx 6cms in diameter, hard to
see where this might fit though. So my Q is what seals the pump where
it comes apart? Should there be a removable gasket or the O ring? TIA
PS Trianco tech told me my nozzle would be a 0.6 80EH , it turned out
to be an 0.6 80H. trianco tech said the direct replacment would not be
an issue and the EH was a "tighter tolerance" component. If thats the
case how come they still supply plain H's then? Just confused ( and a
bit skeptical about tech support comments)