My mom and I both live in the same complex. We likely have the same exact
model of central A/C condensor (around 19 years old). Mine says Carrier
38EN048320.

We both had a tuneup scheduled and, in addition to the regular tune-up, the
technician recommended the EXACT same extra work on both our units, which
makes use wonder if the extra work was really necessary and the price was
really reasonable.

On mine, the maintenance technician showed me that the contactor was
buzzing. The old part says "8726 Honeywell R824381247 (3) 24V 50/60ZH
HN51DC024A"

He also recommended putting in a condensate trap, which is a clear U shaped
trap in the condensate line.

I went along with it and let him do both jobs and so did my mom.

1) Was wondering if the contactor making a buzzing sound is really a
problem? I don't know much about these, but the two "circular metal
(silver?) pieces" on the old contactor do look like they have some grime or
maybe carbon on or oxidation. Does the buzzing mean the electromagnet is
struggling to pull the piece against the "metal circular (silver?) pieces"
to make a connection? Was $128 a good/fair price for replacement or too
high? I see he wrote down that he put in "a 2 pole 30a contactor"...the
original was 24a...was 30a really necessary?

2) Is the "ez flow P-trap" condensate trap is going to be of much added
benefit? Was $99 a good/fair price for installation or too high?

3) By the way, wondering if you any can tell me how many tons my unit is,
based on the model number?

Thanks,

J.

It's really hard for anyone out here to judge the necessity of part
replacement without seeing the part. If the contacts are not being pulled in
completely, because the contactor is worn out, it could damage the motor.
You have to have some faith in service people. I think the guy is trying to
do preventive maintenance. As far as his charge, I get $125 for a service
charge not including parts



"jymusic" wrote in message
news:avsbg.65$zg5.3@trndny04...
My mom and I both live in the same complex. We likely have the same exact
model of central A/C condensor (around 19 years old). Mine says Carrier
38EN048320.

We both had a tuneup scheduled and, in addition to the regular tune-up,
the technician recommended the EXACT same extra work on both our units,
which makes use wonder if the extra work was really necessary and the
price was really reasonable.

On mine, the maintenance technician showed me that the contactor was
buzzing. The old part says "8726 Honeywell R824381247 (3) 24V 50/60ZH
HN51DC024A"

He also recommended putting in a condensate trap, which is a clear U
shaped trap in the condensate line.

I went along with it and let him do both jobs and so did my mom.

1) Was wondering if the contactor making a buzzing sound is really a
problem? I don't know much about these, but the two "circular metal
(silver?) pieces" on the old contactor do look like they have some grime
or maybe carbon on or oxidation. Does the buzzing mean the electromagnet
is struggling to pull the piece against the "metal circular (silver?)
pieces" to make a connection? Was $128 a good/fair price for replacement
or too high? I see he wrote down that he put in "a 2 pole 30a
contactor"...the original was 24a...was 30a really necessary?

2) Is the "ez flow P-trap" condensate trap is going to be of much added
benefit? Was $99 a good/fair price for installation or too high?

3) By the way, wondering if you any can tell me how many tons my unit is,
based on the model number?

Thanks,

J.

Odds are 50/50 that you actually needed a part.
A lot of residential hvac outfits demand that their employees sell so
much in parts a month.

You just never know.....both you and your mom needing the same part at
the same time...you were probably hosed....wait about three years from
now and they will do it again.

"jymusic" wrote in message
news:avsbg.65$zg5.3@trndny04...
My mom and I both live in the same complex. We likely have the same exact
model of central A/C condensor (around 19 years old). Mine says Carrier
38EN048320.

We both had a tuneup scheduled and, in addition to the regular tune-up,
the
technician recommended the EXACT same extra work on both our units, which
makes use wonder if the extra work was really necessary and the price was
really reasonable.

Hard to say for sure. At 19 years, the part may have been on the way out.
When I lived in PA, we had to have our cars inspected twice a year (now it
is only once). The shops all had a gimmick to make a few quick buck. We
had three cars in our family and in one round, they all needed a headlight
adjustment. Six months later they all needed wiper blades. Six months
later, well you get the idea. Back they we were driving some real
crapmobiles so it was cheaper to pay $2 for an adjustment rather than them
find the worn ball joints that a reputable shop would have done.

"jymusic" wrote in message
news:avsbg.65$zg5.3@trndny04...
My mom and I both live in the same complex. We likely have the same exact
model of central A/C condensor (around 19 years old). Mine says Carrier
38EN048320.

We both had a tuneup scheduled and, in addition to the regular tune-up,
the technician recommended the EXACT same extra work on both our units,
which makes use wonder if the extra work was really necessary and the
price was really reasonable.

On mine, the maintenance technician showed me that the contactor was
buzzing. The old part says "8726 Honeywell R824381247 (3) 24V 50/60ZH
HN51DC024A"

He also recommended putting in a condensate trap, which is a clear U
shaped trap in the condensate line.

I went along with it and let him do both jobs and so did my mom.

1) Was wondering if the contactor making a buzzing sound is really a
problem? I don't know much about these, but the two "circular metal
(silver?) pieces" on the old contactor do look like they have some grime
or maybe carbon on or oxidation. Does the buzzing mean the electromagnet
is struggling to pull the piece against the "metal circular (silver?)
pieces" to make a connection? Was $128 a good/fair price for replacement
or too high? I see he wrote down that he put in "a 2 pole 30a
contactor"...the original was 24a...was 30a really necessary?

2) Is the "ez flow P-trap" condensate trap is going to be of much added
benefit? Was $99 a good/fair price for installation or too high?

3) By the way, wondering if you any can tell me how many tons my unit is,
based on the model number?

Thanks,

J.

Answers to your questions

1) Buzzing isn't necessarily a problem other than the noise. However, the
oxidation could be a problem. I have seen some with a little oxidation get
stuck closed and I have seen them completely black and still working. You
can never tell when one will stick. I have had more stuck closed which
means the condenser runs when there is no call for cooling. On the other
hand they sometimes may not make proper contact which means no cooling.
Probably a good call to replace it if there is any question at all. As far
as the 24a and 30a. 30 is far more common most techs would not have 24 with
them (I don't carry them). You would have had to pay considerably more for
them to run out and get one. Besides that, with them higher amp rating the
contactor may last longer.
$128 is a fair price if that was in addition to the checkup price. If it
was total price including the check up it is a very low price.

2) The trap was probably not needed, unless it the unit is a counter flow
system or it is tied into the sewer stack. I doubt that either of these
situations are the case. If it is a counter flow unit the blower can suck
the condensate from the drain and keep it in the unit. If this were the
case you would have had water around the system. If it were tied into the
stack ( you can't do this in many areas) you would probably have had a sewer
smell in the house without a trap. Traps have a problems with getting
clogged, I often remove them for this reason. Hopefully a tee was installed
before the trap so it can be flushed periodically to prevent blockage.
Price to install the trap seems a little high if that's all that was done to
the drain systems.

3) must be a large apt/condo unit is a four ton


--
Doc

I'd rather have a bottle in front of me
than a frontal lobotomy.

"jymusic" wrote in message
news:avsbg.65$zg5.3@trndny04...
My mom and I both live in the same complex. We likely have the same exact
model of central A/C condensor (around 19 years old). Mine says Carrier
38EN048320.

We both had a tuneup scheduled and, in addition to the regular tune-up,
the
technician recommended the EXACT same extra work on both our units, which
makes use wonder if the extra work was really necessary and the price was
really reasonable.

On mine, the maintenance technician showed me that the contactor was
buzzing. The old part says "8726 Honeywell R824381247 (3) 24V 50/60ZH
HN51DC024A"

He also recommended putting in a condensate trap, which is a clear U
shaped
trap in the condensate line.

I went along with it and let him do both jobs and so did my mom.

1) Was wondering if the contactor making a buzzing sound is really a
problem? I don't know much about these, but the two "circular metal
(silver?) pieces" on the old contactor do look like they have some grime
or
maybe carbon on or oxidation. Does the buzzing mean the electromagnet is
struggling to pull the piece against the "metal circular (silver?) pieces"
to make a connection? Was $128 a good/fair price for replacement or too
high? I see he wrote down that he put in "a 2 pole 30a contactor"...the
original was 24a...was 30a really necessary?

2) Is the "ez flow P-trap" condensate trap is going to be of much added
benefit? Was $99 a good/fair price for installation or too high?

If the units were 19 years old and you did not need the P-trap for the first
18 years, I would say you have been taken on that at any price.

The contactor buzzing could be just some rust under the mating pieces or it
could need to be changed to prevent it from going out later.

2) The trap was probably not needed, unless it the unit is a counter flow
system or it is tied into the sewer stack. I doubt that either of these
situations are the case. If it is a counter flow unit the blower can suck
the condensate from the drain and keep it in the unit. If this were the
case you would have had water around the system. If it were tied into the
stack ( you can't do this in many areas) you would probably have had a sewer
smell in the house without a trap. Traps have a problems with getting
clogged, I often remove them for this reason. Hopefully a tee was installed
before the trap so it can be flushed periodically to prevent blockage.
Price to install the trap seems a little high if that's all that was done to
the drain systems.

This particular trap is clear so you can see if it is clogged, and it has
two red lids that can be flipped open to clean it. The technician seemed to
think that having a trap would cause the pan to drain out better than
before, and claimed that there is is even now a code that NEW systems have
to have it. Maybe it was a ripoff. I don't think my system is the kind that
you mentioned, and no it's not tied into the sewer line.

3) must be a large apt/condo unit is a four ton

Yes, 2100 square feet townhouse EXCLUDING the finished basement which has
supply vents in it (although I usually close those since basement is cool
enough in summer)

J.

On Sat, 20 May 2006 02:32:36 GMT, "Edwin Pawlowski"
wrote:


"jymusic" wrote in message
news:avsbg.65$zg5.3@trndny04...
My mom and I both live in the same complex. We likely have the same exact
model of central A/C condensor (around 19 years old). Mine says Carrier
38EN048320.

We both had a tuneup scheduled and, in addition to the regular tune-up,
the
technician recommended the EXACT same extra work on both our units, which
makes use wonder if the extra work was really necessary and the price was
really reasonable.

Hard to say for sure. At 19 years, the part may have been on the way out.
When I lived in PA, we had to have our cars inspected twice a year (now it
is only once). The shops all had a gimmick to make a few quick buck. We
had three cars in our family and in one round, they all needed a headlight
adjustment. Six months later they all needed wiper blades. Six months
later, well you get the idea. Back they we were driving some real
crapmobiles so it was cheaper to pay $2 for an adjustment rather than them
find the worn ball joints that a reputable shop would have done.

I was licensed in PA for a while. Twice a year was really annoying.

OTOH, Maryland has once when you buy the car and that's the end of it.

Keep the car for 20 years, never need inspect it again. (although if a
cop sees you with a light not working, after you get it fixed, you
have to go to the police to prove that you fixed it. I suppose the
other lights better work then.)

Once I bought a new used car and had it inspected. A lot of things
wrong with it, costing a lot of money. I went to another place and
they found quite a few things wrong with it too, but none of the same
things. I thought the second guy's list was more important and more
likely to be accurate, so what I could do, I did, and the rest he did.

jymusic wrote:

2) The trap was probably not needed, unless it the unit is a counter flow
system or it is tied into the sewer stack. I doubt that either of these
situations are the case. If it is a counter flow unit the blower can suck
the condensate from the drain and keep it in the unit. If this were the
case you would have had water around the system. If it were tied into the
stack ( you can't do this in many areas) you would probably have had a sewer
smell in the house without a trap. Traps have a problems with getting
clogged, I often remove them for this reason. Hopefully a tee was installed
before the trap so it can be flushed periodically to prevent blockage.
Price to install the trap seems a little high if that's all that was done to
the drain systems.

This particular trap is clear so you can see if it is clogged, and it has
two red lids that can be flipped open to clean it. The technician seemed to
think that having a trap would cause the pan to drain out better than
before, and claimed that there is is even now a code that NEW systems have
to have it. Maybe it was a ripoff. I don't think my system is the kind that
you mentioned, and no it's not tied into the sewer line.

3) must be a large apt/condo unit is a four ton

Yes, 2100 square feet townhouse EXCLUDING the finished basement which has
supply vents in it (although I usually close those since basement is cool
enough in summer) J.


You must live in an awful hot climate or an energy inefficient condo,
under most conditions, four ton is a lot of cooling for 2100 sq. ft.
Perhaps equipment is not matched to the ductwork, etc., for a lot of
reasons those units are probably NOT transferring 4-ton of heat to the
outside.

When it comes time to replace those units have an heat-gain heat loss
done on those condos and do whatever it takes to reduce the size of your
cooling and heating equipment ! Where are you located? - Darrell - udarrell

--
Air Conditioning's Affordable Path to the "Human Comfort Zone Goal"
http://www.udarrell.com/air-conditio...tent-heat.html

You must live in an awful hot climate or an energy inefficient condo,
under most conditions, four ton is a lot of cooling for 2100 sq. ft.
Perhaps equipment is not matched to the ductwork, etc., for a lot of
reasons those units are probably NOT transferring 4-ton of heat to the
outside.

When it comes time to replace those units have an heat-gain heat loss
done on those condos and do whatever it takes to reduce the size of your
cooling and heating equipment ! Where are you located? - Darrell -
udarrell

I agree that a full analysis should be done when time for replacement.
Wondering how much longer my 19 year old Carrier condenser is expected to
last?

Maybe they originally included the basement in the calculations, but then
again it wasn't originally finished. My townhouse is an end unit. Even the
non-end-units have the same size A/C condenser as well. All the units have
two skylights upstairs and there aren't a lot of trees to block sunlight.

Main problem with cooling is that one of the upstairs rooms that faces the
south gets much warmer than the rest of house on sunny days. I actually
wound up installing a portable (kind on wheels) A/C unit in that room to
ensure the temperature in that room stays in the 70s. because there is only
one zone and I keep the downstairs set to 75 during the day. Sometimes on
a sunny spring day (mid 60s or warmer), I have to use the portable A/C in
that one room while the rest of the house does not need any A/C.

J.