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wendih6
 
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Default Plaster repair

I had a window unit airconditioner that leaked and ruined the plaster
underneath the windowledge and wall. What do you suggest is the best way
to repair this damage?

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Doug Kanter
 
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Default Plaster repair

"wendih6" noreply@ wrote in message
news:7b191e9169e4b7ed0f3a799f43e3dd29@homerepairli ve.com...
I had a window unit airconditioner that leaked and ruined the plaster
underneath the windowledge and wall. What do you suggest is the best way
to repair this damage?



In what way is it damaged? Is the plaster coming off in chunks, or getting
ready to? Does it seem to have separated from the lath (the wood behind the
plaster)? You can sometimes see this, because the plaster bulges, or you can
press gently and see if there seems to be space behind the plaster.


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wendih6
 
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Default Plaster repair

The plaster has come off the underface of the window and about half way to
the floor. It came off after it dried in chunks. I peeled off what would
and there is just wall wood there. I was considering trying to plaster it
myself but then I saw something that said to use drywall and cut it to
fit. What do you think? Thanks

In what way is it damaged? Is the plaster coming off in chunks, or getting


ready to? Does it seem to have separated from the lath (the wood behind

the
plaster)? You can sometimes see this, because the plaster bulges, or you

can
press gently and see if there seems to be space behind the plaster.



____________________________________
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Doug Kanter
 
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Default Plaster repair

It all depends. Sorry.

1) Although I've seen small drywall scraps for sale at Home Depot, you may
have to buy a 4x8 sheet of it. I don't recall the prices, but it's certainly
within the "Oh well - I have no choice" range. If you can get it home
without breaking it, I'd use this method to patch the area.

2) The other issue with drywall is that you might not be able to get it in a
thickness that matches that of the surrounding plaster. Then, it becomes a
big production trying to make it work, and plaster suddenly seems like a
good idea.

3) If you're looking at the lath under the plaster, that's a lot of
thickness to cover. The plaster should be built up in layers and allowed to
dry completely. Depending on temperature & humidity, this can take a week in
some cases. Helping it with a fan makes it dry too fast and will cause
cracking. But, using plaster will be the cheapest method in the end, and
provides the best opportunity for matching the thickness & texture of the
surrounding area.

"wendih6" wrote in message
news:cc2f2d55713486d694d2cb4c11f53fcf@homerepairli ve.com...
The plaster has come off the underface of the window and about half way to
the floor. It came off after it dried in chunks. I peeled off what would
and there is just wall wood there. I was considering trying to plaster it
myself but then I saw something that said to use drywall and cut it to
fit. What do you think? Thanks

In what way is it damaged? Is the plaster coming off in chunks, or getting


ready to? Does it seem to have separated from the lath (the wood behind

the
plaster)? You can sometimes see this, because the plaster bulges, or you

can
press gently and see if there seems to be space behind the plaster.



____________________________________
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http://www.homerepairlive.com



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pedro
 
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Default Plaster repair

actually on the bottom of the a.c. unit there a hole that could be clog
with sedatives, this hole should drain the water outside, but since it
clog this why its leaking inside the window it has no place to go.....

In what way is it damaged? Is the plaster coming off in chunks, or getting


ready to? Does it seem to have separated from the lath (the wood behind

the
plaster)? You can sometimes see this, because the plaster bulges, or you

can
press gently and see if there seems to be space behind the plaster.



____________________________________
Posted via Homerepairlive.com
http://www.homerepairlive.com


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pedro
 
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Default Plaster repair


I had a window unit airconditioner that leaked and ruined the plaster
underneath the windowledge and wall. What do you suggest is the best way
to repair this damage?



____________________________________
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http://www.homerepairlive.com
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Doug Kanter
 
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Default Plaster repair

"Phil Munro" wrote in message
...

Contrary to every recommendation I've seen, painting with primer and
finish can be done as soon as two or three days, i.e., after the plaster
is dry (and set, of course).


Hang on there, Phil! Earlier, you said it doesn't dry, but this paragraph
says "after the plaster is dry". Whattyou...some kinda wise guy?

Onward: I've had large areas of plaster where the center was darker, and
cooler to the touch than the outer area for a few days.
Dry....set....whatever....it clearly wasn't ready to be painted yet. Like
paint and cooking, you can't always count on anything but your own
observations (if any) to know when to go to the next step.


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Phil Munro
 
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Default Plaster repair

Doug Kanter wrote:

"Phil Munro" wrote in message
...

Contrary to every recommendation I've seen, painting with primer and
finish can be done as soon as two or three days, i.e., after the plaster
is dry (and set, of course).


Hang on there, Phil! Earlier, you said it doesn't dry, but this paragraph
says "after the plaster is dry". Whattyou...some kinda wise guy?

Onward: I've had large areas of plaster where the center was darker, and
cooler to the touch than the outer area for a few days.
Dry....set....whatever....it clearly wasn't ready to be painted yet. Like
paint and cooking, you can't always count on anything but your own
observations (if any) to know when to go to the next step.

You even copied my full quote, but did you read the part, "(and set,
of course)"? What you share is what I've also observed, the color
change and dampness change as the plaster cures. "Cures", there is a
new word for drying and setting!! :-)

Sometimes I wonder if the old plasters and paints of 50 years ago
required the long times between plastering and painting. It has not
seemed necessary to me. --Phil
--
Phil Munro Dept of Electrical & Computer Engin
Youngstown State University
Youngstown, Ohio 44555
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Doug Kanter
 
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Default Plaster repair

"Phil Munro" wrote in message
...
Doug Kanter wrote:

"Phil Munro" wrote in message
...

Contrary to every recommendation I've seen, painting with primer and
finish can be done as soon as two or three days, i.e., after the plaster
is dry (and set, of course).


Hang on there, Phil! Earlier, you said it doesn't dry, but this paragraph
says "after the plaster is dry". Whattyou...some kinda wise guy?

Onward: I've had large areas of plaster where the center was darker, and
cooler to the touch than the outer area for a few days.
Dry....set....whatever....it clearly wasn't ready to be painted yet. Like
paint and cooking, you can't always count on anything but your own
observations (if any) to know when to go to the next step.

You even copied my full quote, but did you read the part, "(and set,
of course)"? What you share is what I've also observed, the color
change and dampness change as the plaster cures. "Cures", there is a
new word for drying and setting!! :-)

Sometimes I wonder if the old plasters and paints of 50 years ago
required the long times between plastering and painting. It has not
seemed necessary to me. --Phil



I don't know, either. Last time I did it was around 1990, using some stuff
that came in a box with a bag inside, provided by a great hardware store
that's since vanished. It seemed like inviting trouble to put it on in thick
layers, so I filled 1/2" problem areas about 1/8" at a time. It took
forever, but it's still standing.


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PipeDown
 
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Default Plaster repair

LOL Sedatives, I think you meant sediment.

Don't drink the water with sedatives, you will get very sleepy.

The point is make sure the reason for the damaged wall is fixed too

If the wall is likely to see water again, go with a really tough fix. Use
cement board instead of wallboard and use FixAll instead of plaster. The
wall will be like stone when you are done but can still be drilled. Cement
board comes in smaller and thinner sizes than wallboard giving even more
options.

With this treatment, you could tile with no further prep.





"pedro" wrote in message
news:317e932acc1a6f8c7e89ea7dc8921578@homerepairli ve.com...
actually on the bottom of the a.c. unit there a hole that could be clog
with sedatives, this hole should drain the water outside, but since it
clog this why its leaking inside the window it has no place to go.....

In what way is it damaged? Is the plaster coming off in chunks, or getting


ready to? Does it seem to have separated from the lath (the wood behind

the
plaster)? You can sometimes see this, because the plaster bulges, or you

can
press gently and see if there seems to be space behind the plaster.



____________________________________
Posted via Homerepairlive.com
http://www.homerepairlive.com



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