I have a garden shed that I need to re-roof. I put roll-roofing on 10
years ago and during one of our wettest winters of all time this year,
it started to leak.

I followed the instructions to a "T" when I did this in 1996.....But in
talking to a roofer, he asked if I "face-nailed" the roll roof. I had
to ask him what he meant, and he explained that was when bare nail
heads were left exposed.

Well, yes, I did, although I covered each nail with that black roofing
tar stuff.

Anyway, as mentioned I followed the instructions on the roll roofing
and they showed face-nailing, but didn't mention the tar, that was my
own idea.

The roofer laughed and said, "yeah, they do say to face-nail don't
they."

He then said if I hadn't face-nailed, I might have gotten another five
to seven years. Since he wants $700 to three-tab the roof, I thought
I'd go back to the $40 roll roofing job and do it myself.

But, If I don't face-nail, how DO I do this. I looked in the roofing
books at the local library, but they don't seem to cover roll roofing.

Buy a couple bundles of jet shingles. Laid like 3 tabs without the tabs.

On 17 Apr 2006 10:17:03 -0700, wrote:

I have a garden shed that I need to re-roof. I put roll-roofing on 10
years ago and during one of our wettest winters of all time this year,
it started to leak.

I followed the instructions to a "T" when I did this in 1996.....But in
talking to a roofer, he asked if I "face-nailed" the roll roof. I had
to ask him what he meant, and he explained that was when bare nail
heads were left exposed.

Well, yes, I did, although I covered each nail with that black roofing
tar stuff.

Anyway, as mentioned I followed the instructions on the roll roofing
and they showed face-nailing, but didn't mention the tar, that was my
own idea.

The roofer laughed and said, "yeah, they do say to face-nail don't
they."

He then said if I hadn't face-nailed, I might have gotten another five
to seven years. Since he wants $700 to three-tab the roof, I thought
I'd go back to the $40 roll roofing job and do it myself.

But, If I don't face-nail, how DO I do this. I looked in the roofing
books at the local library, but they don't seem to cover roll roofing.


Large amounts of glue.

wrote:

I have a garden shed that I need to re-roof. I put roll-roofing on 10
years ago and during one of our wettest winters of all time this year,
it started to leak.

I followed the instructions to a "T" when I did this in 1996.....But in
talking to a roofer, he asked if I "face-nailed" the roll roof. I had
to ask him what he meant, and he explained that was when bare nail
heads were left exposed.

Well, yes, I did, although I covered each nail with that black roofing
tar stuff.

Anyway, as mentioned I followed the instructions on the roll roofing
and they showed face-nailing, but didn't mention the tar, that was my
own idea.

The roofer laughed and said, "yeah, they do say to face-nail don't
they."

He then said if I hadn't face-nailed, I might have gotten another five
to seven years. Since he wants $700 to three-tab the roof, I thought
I'd go back to the $40 roll roofing job and do it myself.

But, If I don't face-nail, how DO I do this. I looked in the roofing
books at the local library, but they don't seem to cover roll roofing.


You use mastic to stick the lower side down. The best kind is
made specifically for roll roofing. Comes in buckets or even
caulk tubes. Roll out the roofing and let the sun heat and
"relax" the material. Keep some bricks or something handy to
hold down any wrinkles

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

wrote:
I have a garden shed that I need to re-roof. I put roll-roofing on 10
years ago and during one of our wettest winters of all time this year,
it started to leak.

I followed the instructions to a "T" when I did this in 1996.....But in
talking to a roofer, he asked if I "face-nailed" the roll roof. I had
to ask him what he meant, and he explained that was when bare nail
heads were left exposed.

Well, yes, I did, although I covered each nail with that black roofing
tar stuff.

Anyway, as mentioned I followed the instructions on the roll roofing
and they showed face-nailing, but didn't mention the tar, that was my
own idea.

The roofer laughed and said, "yeah, they do say to face-nail don't
they."

He then said if I hadn't face-nailed, I might have gotten another five
to seven years. Since he wants $700 to three-tab the roof, I thought
I'd go back to the $40 roll roofing job and do it myself.

But, If I don't face-nail, how DO I do this. I looked in the roofing
books at the local library, but they don't seem to cover roll roofing.


How big is this garden shed? 10 x 10, 10 x 12?
Second question is did you put the roll roofing
across or up and down the roof slope?
In any case, you did it the first time do it
again. Just lay the roll roofing so that the
seems of the original are covered.

Or just use 3 tab roofing at $40 a square you are
looking at about $110 for a 10 x10 or 10 x 12 shed
and you should be able to put it over the roll
roofing and be finished with it in 3 hours if you
are fast, 6 hours if you are slow.

OK, this is starting to make some sense. This is an easy roof, no
hips, valleys, etc. just a staight line of plywood on a slope...

I start at the bottom, use this mastic stuff to keep the bottom edge
stuck down and then move upward right?

Do I nail down the top of the starter and then overlap that with a
second sheet that is stuck down with mastic, etc.?

When I reach the top, the top edge is then stuck down with mastic once
again -- ?? -- any overhang?

wrote:
OK, this is starting to make some sense. This is an easy roof, no
hips, valleys, etc. just a staight line of plywood on a slope...

I start at the bottom, use this mastic stuff to keep the bottom edge
stuck down and then move upward right?

Yes, I use a few nails to keep the corners down.

Do I nail down the top of the starter and then overlap that with a
second sheet that is stuck down with mastic, etc.?

Correct.

When I reach the top, the top edge is then stuck down with mastic once
again -- ?? -- any overhang?


When I reach the top, I usually use a piece of metal flashing
to transition to another roof, or as a termination. I screw
this down with roofing screws (with neoprene washers). You
can use mastic to seal down the last piece if you want. I
just like to use metal.

--
Robert Allison
Rimshot, Inc.
Georgetown, TX

wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a garden shed that I need to re-roof. I put roll-roofing on 10
years ago and during one of our wettest winters of all time this year,
it started to leak.

I followed the instructions to a "T" when I did this in 1996.....But in
talking to a roofer, he asked if I "face-nailed" the roll roof. I had
to ask him what he meant, and he explained that was when bare nail
heads were left exposed.

Well, yes, I did, although I covered each nail with that black roofing
tar stuff.

Anyway, as mentioned I followed the instructions on the roll roofing
and they showed face-nailing, but didn't mention the tar, that was my
own idea.

The roofer laughed and said, "yeah, they do say to face-nail don't
they."

He then said if I hadn't face-nailed, I might have gotten another five
to seven years. Since he wants $700 to three-tab the roof, I thought
I'd go back to the $40 roll roofing job and do it myself.

But, If I don't face-nail, how DO I do this. I looked in the roofing
books at the local library, but they don't seem to cover roll roofing.


Try to find some half-lap roll roofing and follow the directions on the
package.

Otherwise follow the direction to glue down the bottom 6" of the roll
roofing.


--
Colbyt
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