I set out to paint my kitchen which had high-gloss, Navajo White paint;
the lousy "contractor's special". I tried Jasco's TSP, first with a
rag, then with a ScotchBrite pad. It was mixed according to the
instructions on the label. In both cases, the TSP was a miserable
failure, even though it claims to be a deglosser. Even worse, using a
ScotchBrite pad has a sanding effect. Unless you want smooth walls or
are planning to retexture, I wouldn't use a ScotchBrite pad.

Another other option is to use a primer like Kilz or Zinsser. However,
those are somewhat pricey, IMHO.

Then I thought, "Geez, I may as well just retexture the stupid walls
and ceiling, since I have a hopper and all." This is certainly an
option.

However, then, I came up with Plan D. Go buy some cheap wallboard
compound. Mix it extremely thin, i.e. paint consistency. Then, just
paint it on as you would any other paint. Et Voila, the walls are the
same as if they had just been textured. Of course, you need to let the
soupy mud mixture dry completely before painting.

Also, there is a possibility that the mud might flake off because of
the shiny paint underneath. However, I didn't have this problem and I
used this method for my kitchen, bathrooms, etc., wherever the
highgloss paint had been.

You will styill need to prime the new mud coat before painting. A cheap PVA
primer would do the trick even without the mud. Why would you want to use a
premium primer if you weren't trying to cover up something difficult or
outdoors.

Have you tried painting right over the glossy. It might work just fine.

220 grit sandpaper would have been a better choice than scotchbrite.



"seven_percent" wrote in message
oups.com...
I set out to paint my kitchen which had high-gloss, Navajo White paint;
the lousy "contractor's special". I tried Jasco's TSP, first with a
rag, then with a ScotchBrite pad. It was mixed according to the
instructions on the label. In both cases, the TSP was a miserable
failure, even though it claims to be a deglosser. Even worse, using a
ScotchBrite pad has a sanding effect. Unless you want smooth walls or
are planning to retexture, I wouldn't use a ScotchBrite pad.

Another other option is to use a primer like Kilz or Zinsser. However,
those are somewhat pricey, IMHO.

Then I thought, "Geez, I may as well just retexture the stupid walls
and ceiling, since I have a hopper and all." This is certainly an
option.

However, then, I came up with Plan D. Go buy some cheap wallboard
compound. Mix it extremely thin, i.e. paint consistency. Then, just
paint it on as you would any other paint. Et Voila, the walls are the
same as if they had just been textured. Of course, you need to let the
soupy mud mixture dry completely before painting.

Also, there is a possibility that the mud might flake off because of
the shiny paint underneath. However, I didn't have this problem and I
used this method for my kitchen, bathrooms, etc., wherever the
highgloss paint had been.

"seven_percent" wrote:

Another other option is to use a primer like Kilz or Zinsser. However,
those are somewhat pricey, IMHO.

Get a can of de-glosser? They make a solvent mix that does the job,
available in the paint dept. Also does de-greasing.

Been a long time since I've used it, so I don't know of a name, but it
is a thin, solvent, that you use a rag to wipe on/off the stuff your
going to paint.
--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth

Acetone will soften the surface of most paints


"John Hines" wrote in message
...
"seven_percent" wrote:

Another other option is to use a primer like Kilz or Zinsser. However,
those are somewhat pricey, IMHO.

Get a can of de-glosser? They make a solvent mix that does the job,
available in the paint dept. Also does de-greasing.

Been a long time since I've used it, so I don't know of a name, but it
is a thin, solvent, that you use a rag to wipe on/off the stuff your
going to paint.
--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth

seven_percent wrote:
I set out to paint my kitchen which had high-gloss, Navajo White paint;
the lousy "contractor's special". I tried Jasco's TSP, first with a
rag, then with a ScotchBrite pad. It was mixed according to the
instructions on the label. In both cases, the TSP was a miserable
failure, even though it claims to be a deglosser. Even worse, using a
ScotchBrite pad has a sanding effect. Unless you want smooth walls or
are planning to retexture, I wouldn't use a ScotchBrite pad.

Another other option is to use a primer like Kilz or Zinsser. However,
those are somewhat pricey, IMHO.

Then I thought, "Geez, I may as well just retexture the stupid walls
and ceiling, since I have a hopper and all." This is certainly an
option.

However, then, I came up with Plan D. Go buy some cheap wallboard
compound. Mix it extremely thin, i.e. paint consistency. Then, just
paint it on as you would any other paint. Et Voila, the walls are the
same as if they had just been textured. Of course, you need to let the
soupy mud mixture dry completely before painting.

Also, there is a possibility that the mud might flake off because of
the shiny paint underneath. However, I didn't have this problem and I
used this method for my kitchen, bathrooms, etc., wherever the
highgloss paint had been.


I don't quite understand your shiny paint. Did
you use real TSP or the fake kind (actually a
silicate). As a paint store explained to me the
TSP is harder to rinse off but works better,
contrastwise, many people prefer the silicate
because it does rinse off easier.

I have always used the real TSP. Put some (I
don't measure it) in about 2 gallons and wash the
wall with a wash cloth. I rinse lightly with
fresh water. Just because the paint still looks
somewhat shiny after TSP doesn't mean that it
hasn't been deglossed. I have never had any
flaking when painting.

You are right, never use scotchbrite or you are
likely to end up with a mess.

Glad you found a solution to your problem.

Am I the only one here LOL at this:

Another other option is to use a primer like Kilz or Zinsser. However,
those are somewhat pricey, IMHO.

Pricey, as compared to what? Screwing around with TSP and a scoth
pads all day? For a job like this, the cost of a gallon of Kilz,
shouldn't even be a factor.

BTW, I'm not sure Kilz is appropriate for this or suggesting that he
use it, just that it's crazy to worry about the cost.


..

In article .com,
says...

Am I the only one here LOL at this:

Another other option is to use a primer like Kilz or Zinsser. However,
those are somewhat pricey, IMHO.

Pricey, as compared to what? Screwing around with TSP and a scoth
pads all day? For a job like this, the cost of a gallon of Kilz,
shouldn't even be a factor.

BTW, I'm not sure Kilz is appropriate for this or suggesting that he
use it, just that it's crazy to worry about the cost.


Hear hear.

For the labor one puts into this, and the fact that one will be looking at it
for years, it's well worthwhile to get the best materials. In this case, primer
and paint. Knock off that little devil or whatever that's on your shoulder
while you're in the paint store or borg telling you that you're foolish not to
grab the cheapest thing on the shelf.

And go to a paint store instead of a borg so you can ask knowledgable people
some questions about prep and priming.

Banty


--
NewsGuy.Com 30Gb $9.95 Carry Forward and On Demand Bandwidth

Yeah, you are.

You didn't read my whole post, dummy. The cheaper alternative wasn't
TSP and a scotch brite pad. It was using a thinned mixture of mud. I
suggest a remedial reading (and typing) class.

A gallon of Kilz??? You don't have the slightest idea about the area I
am dealing with. . . Try four rooms with cathedral ceilings all covered
in high gloss paint. It would be more like 10-12 gallons of Kilz vs.
one five gallon container of mud, thinned to paint consistency. You do
the math, if you are capable.

I didn't need to primer the thin mud coat I laid on. It was fine.

Yeah, I tried that first. The new coat of paint beaded-up, i.e. it
didn't adhere very well at all.