I tried to hang drywall on metal studs using fine thread drywall screws
(for metal studs that I got from HD) over the weekend. Everything went
OK except for one section of the drywall over one stud. What happens is
that the screws get to tight and then spin out before dimpling. The
screw heads are not even flush with the drywall surface (still sticking
out a little) when spin out occurs. I usually use a dimpler bit, but
even with a regular screw driver, I couldn't drive the screws after a
certain point to get the dimple. Any suggestions? As I mentioned, I
didn't have a problem with most of the job.

Thanks,
Matt

Put in a shorter screw.

wrote in message
ups.com...
I tried to hang drywall on metal studs using fine thread drywall screws
(for metal studs that I got from HD) over the weekend. Everything went
OK except for one section of the drywall over one stud. What happens is
that the screws get to tight and then spin out before dimpling. The
screw heads are not even flush with the drywall surface (still sticking
out a little) when spin out occurs. I usually use a dimpler bit, but
even with a regular screw driver, I couldn't drive the screws after a
certain point to get the dimple. Any suggestions? As I mentioned, I
didn't have a problem with most of the job.

Thanks,
Matt

hit it with a hammer just enough to counter sink and you are good to go.

"Bob" wrote in message
. ..
Put in a shorter screw.

wrote in message
ups.com...
I tried to hang drywall on metal studs using fine thread drywall screws
(for metal studs that I got from HD) over the weekend. Everything went
OK except for one section of the drywall over one stud. What happens is
that the screws get to tight and then spin out before dimpling. The
screw heads are not even flush with the drywall surface (still sticking
out a little) when spin out occurs. I usually use a dimpler bit, but
even with a regular screw driver, I couldn't drive the screws after a
certain point to get the dimple. Any suggestions? As I mentioned, I
didn't have a problem with most of the job.

Thanks,
Matt

If they all happen in one area, it's likely that there's something inside
stopping the screws from going in any further.

"Chub" wrote in message
...
hit it with a hammer just enough to counter sink and you are good to go.

"Bob" wrote in message
. ..
Put in a shorter screw.

wrote in message
ups.com...
I tried to hang drywall on metal studs using fine thread drywall screws
(for metal studs that I got from HD) over the weekend. Everything went
OK except for one section of the drywall over one stud. What happens is
that the screws get to tight and then spin out before dimpling. The
screw heads are not even flush with the drywall surface (still sticking
out a little) when spin out occurs. I usually use a dimpler bit, but
even with a regular screw driver, I couldn't drive the screws after a
certain point to get the dimple. Any suggestions? As I mentioned, I
didn't have a problem with most of the job.

Thanks,
Matt

If they all happen in one area, it's likely that there's something
inside stopping the screws from going in any further.

Actually no, I can see the screws going thru the metal. I only need
about 1/16 - 1/8" to get the dimple, but they spin out before then.
They are 1-1/4" screws; I'll try shorter ones..

Thanks.

wrote in message
ups.com...
If they all happen in one area, it's likely that there's something
inside stopping the screws from going in any further.

Actually no, I can see the screws going thru the metal. I only need
about 1/16 - 1/8" to get the dimple, but they spin out before then.
They are 1-1/4" screws; I'll try shorter ones..

Thanks.


If you looked at a cross section of the metal beams, are the corners
perfectly square, or do they sort of fold back a bit toward the interior
(probably not explaining that well....sorry)?

wrote:
I tried to hang drywall on metal studs using fine thread drywall screws
(for metal studs that I got from HD) over the weekend. Everything went
OK except for one section of the drywall over one stud. What happens is
that the screws get to tight and then spin out before dimpling. The
screw heads are not even flush with the drywall surface (still sticking
out a little) when spin out occurs. I usually use a dimpler bit, but
even with a regular screw driver, I couldn't drive the screws after a
certain point to get the dimple. Any suggestions? As I mentioned, I
didn't have a problem with most of the job.

What exactly are you driving the screws with and at what speed? Are
you using a torque setting to control the depth or a depth stop?

If you're only having problems with the one stud, it points to
something with that stud - maybe a lighter guage?

R

RicodJour, I got these studs from HD at different times. I don't know
what gauge they are, but it might be possible that one batch is lighter
gauge than the others. Assuming this particular one is lighter, what
should I do? A different screw maybe?

Thanks,
Matt

wrote:
RicodJour, I got these studs from HD at different times. I don't know
what gauge they are, but it might be possible that one batch is lighter
gauge than the others. Assuming this particular one is lighter, what
should I do? A different screw maybe?

Maybe, but if it's stripping out with a fine threaded drywall screw
meant for steel studs, I don't know what else would hold better. Are
you using the self-drilling screws or the pointy ones?

I'd probably cut a couple or three holes big enough for me to get my
arm in (saving the pieces) and insert some scraps of plywood/wood
behind the stud flange to give the screw something to bite into, then
attach some plywood scraps to the edges of the holes I cut so the piece
that was cut out could be screwed back in place. Tape & spackle.

It's not really a big deal. A little bit more work but that's what
you've got. Obviously you won't want to hang anything heavy off of
those studs without reinforcing them and/or the drywall.

R

The drywall screws should be the type with a sharp point, and not the ones
with a drill bit looking point.
Within the lot of screws, is there any chance some of the screws look
different regarding how high the threading
goes (how close to the head)?

bill


wrote in message
oups.com...
RicodJour, I got these studs from HD at different times. I don't know
what gauge they are, but it might be possible that one batch is lighter
gauge than the others. Assuming this particular one is lighter, what
should I do? A different screw maybe?

Thanks,
Matt

I'm sure I have the right screws - with the sharp point; I have used
them for other projects as well.

I also tried what RicodJour suggested (I still have access to the stud
so I didn't have to cut anything). I placed a piece of wood behind the
stud flange, and used coarse grade drywall screw. There was no spin
out, but I couldn't drive it deep enough (either with the drill or with
the screwdriver) to make a dimple. It is as if the drywall is really
hard there.

Anyway I'm going to try to create a dimple probably with a hammer
first, and then see what happens..

wrote:
I'm sure I have the right screws - with the sharp point; I have used
them for other projects as well.

I also tried what RicodJour suggested (I still have access to the stud
so I didn't have to cut anything). I placed a piece of wood behind the
stud flange, and used coarse grade drywall screw. There was no spin
out, but I couldn't drive it deep enough (either with the drill or with
the screwdriver) to make a dimple. It is as if the drywall is really
hard there.

Anyway I'm going to try to create a dimple probably with a hammer
first, and then see what happens.

Don't. There's something weird there. If you're screwing into the
wood backing, and it's reasonably thick wood (not a paint stirrer),
then you should be able to drive the screw right through the drywall
with no problem. If it was a plaster wall you'd still be able to sink
the screw and drywall is nowhere near as hard as plaster.

You switched to coarse drywall screws with the wood backing, which
shows you understand how it's supposed to work. Don't start trying to
set screws in metal studs with a hammer, even if they have wood
backing. You'll get pops and end up having to patch and paint.

The tapered edge of the drywall is denser and harder due to the rolling
process that tapers it, but that should not prevent the screw from
sinking correctly. I don't know what exactly you're doing, but it's
very unlikely that the problem is too hard drywall.

R