How?

are you talking about Garage Door torsion spring? then I think you
better call a pro.

wrote:
How?

If you are thinking garage door, the answer is the yellow pages. This
job is dangerous for someone who does not know what they are doing.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Joseph Meehan wrote:
wrote:

How?


If you are thinking garage door, the answer is the yellow pages. This
job is dangerous for someone who does not know what they are doing.



Why is it that people are so damn afraid of springs. Are you afraid to
change the shocks on your car? Damn

you need: 2 bars maybe 30 inches long, not too long not too short.
Probably 3/8 or 1/2 inch diameter

wrench to fit the bolts in the outboard spring mount[square head on my
doors]

There are 4 holes in the outboard ends of the springs. The bars need to
just fit in them.


standing on a very sturdy ladder, you will need to first take the
weight of the spring with your shoulder. Stick the bar in the hole that
is closest to horizontal.If you let the bar loose it will go flying,
break your collar bone or somehting similarly ugly.
So you are standing on the ladder, door down, facing the door, bar
resting firmly on your shoulder. when you lift the bar you will see the
cable slack.

loosen the bolts clamping the spring retainer to the bar. the bar
should be weighing on your shoulder, not any space in between you and it.

The force will now be on your shoulder and not on the door.
Take the second bar and place it in one of the holes above the one you
are using and push it up, away, towards the door/wall.

This will allow you to remove the bar resting on your shoulder.

carefully lower the second bar till it rests on your shoulder

repeat.

When there is no force left on the bar, you can do the other side.

tightening is the reverse process

Note that there is always a bar in the hole, so that the spring can only
spin less than half a turn and is not very dangerous unless you put your
head in there or use some old rotten piece of tubing instead of a
proper solid steel bar.

Completely replacing a spring is a little more complicated than just
adjusting, but not rocket science. Note exactly how the cable is wound
on the pulley.

Try this..... http://truetex.com/garage.htm
I used the above as a guide. Take a few digital photos so you can tell
how everything should look when finished. It took me a full day, but I
saved $800. Best of luck.

Access might be an issue, but wouldn't this be much easier with the
door *open* ?

Dave

wrote:
Access might be an issue, but wouldn't this be much easier with the
door *open* ?

Dave

Suggest that you go out and look at your garage
door when it is open and closed. The best access
will immediately be obvious.

yourname wrote:
Why is it that people are so damn afraid of springs. Are you afraid to
change the shocks on your car? Damn

## See below


you need: 2 bars maybe 30 inches long, not too long not too short.
Probably 3/8 or 1/2 inch diameter

wrench to fit the bolts in the outboard spring mount[square head on my
doors]

There are 4 holes in the outboard ends of the springs. The bars need
to just fit in them.


standing on a very sturdy ladder, you will need to first take the
weight of the spring with your shoulder. Stick the bar in the hole
that is closest to horizontal.If you let the bar loose it will go flying,
break your collar bone or somehting similarly ugly.
So you are standing on the ladder, door down, facing the door, bar
resting firmly on your shoulder. when you lift the bar you will see
the cable slack.

loosen the bolts clamping the spring retainer to the bar. the bar
should be weighing on your shoulder, not any space in between you and
it.
The force will now be on your shoulder and not on the door.
Take the second bar and place it in one of the holes above the one you
are using and push it up, away, towards the door/wall.

This will allow you to remove the bar resting on your shoulder.

carefully lower the second bar till it rests on your shoulder

repeat.

When there is no force left on the bar, you can do the other side.

tightening is the reverse process

Note that there is always a bar in the hole, so that the spring can
only spin less than half a turn and is not very dangerous unless you
put your head in there or use some old rotten piece of tubing
instead of a proper solid steel bar.

Completely replacing a spring is a little more complicated than just
adjusting, but not rocket science. Note exactly how the cable is wound
on the pulley.

Follow the above instructions exactly. If you don't, you may die. No joke.

These springs have as much as 47,000 ft lbs of energy stored within them.
This is enough energy to raise a Volkswagen higher than a two-story house
(or fling you a city block), or bake 15,000 pizzas.

yourname wrote:
Joseph Meehan wrote:
wrote:

How?


If you are thinking garage door, the answer is the yellow pages.
This job is dangerous for someone who does not know what they are
doing.


Why is it that people are so damn afraid of springs. Are you afraid to
change the shocks on your car? Damn


Because people who are not sure how to do it tend to get injured and
sometimes seriously.

I have changed shocks in my car, but then I have some knowledge of what
I was doing. I did not have to ask in a news group how to do it.

There are things that not everyone should attempt.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

In article .com, wrote:
How?

Unless you've done it before, or are feeling exceptionally brave/lucky, your
toolkit should consist of exactly three items:
Yellow Pages.
Phone.
MasterCard.


--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

In article KMczf.9156$2x4.6266@trndny05, yourname wrote:

Why is it that people are so damn afraid of springs. Are you afraid to
change the shocks on your car? Damn

Evidently you're not familiar with changing shocks on a car, or you would not
imagine that the two situations are even remotely similar.

--
Regards,
Doug Miller (alphageek at milmac dot com)

It's time to throw all their damned tea in the harbor again.

HeyBub wrote:
yourname wrote:

Why is it that people are so damn afraid of springs. Are you afraid to
change the shocks on your car? Damn


## See below


you need: 2 bars maybe 30 inches long, not too long not too short.
Probably 3/8 or 1/2 inch diameter

wrench to fit the bolts in the outboard spring mount[square head on my
doors]

There are 4 holes in the outboard ends of the springs. The bars need
to just fit in them.


standing on a very sturdy ladder, you will need to first take the
weight of the spring with your shoulder. Stick the bar in the hole
that is closest to horizontal.If you let the bar loose it will go flying,
break your collar bone or somehting similarly ugly.
So you are standing on the ladder, door down, facing the door, bar
resting firmly on your shoulder. when you lift the bar you will see
the cable slack.

loosen the bolts clamping the spring retainer to the bar. the bar
should be weighing on your shoulder, not any space in between you and
it.
The force will now be on your shoulder and not on the door.
Take the second bar and place it in one of the holes above the one you
are using and push it up, away, towards the door/wall.

This will allow you to remove the bar resting on your shoulder.

carefully lower the second bar till it rests on your shoulder

repeat.

When there is no force left on the bar, you can do the other side.

tightening is the reverse process

Note that there is always a bar in the hole, so that the spring can
only spin less than half a turn and is not very dangerous unless you
put your head in there or use some old rotten piece of tubing
instead of a proper solid steel bar.

Completely replacing a spring is a little more complicated than just
adjusting, but not rocket science. Note exactly how the cable is wound
on the pulley.


Follow the above instructions exactly. If you don't, you may die. No joke.

These springs have as much as 47,000 ft lbs of energy stored within them.
This is enough energy to raise a Volkswagen higher than a two-story house
(or fling you a city block), or bake 15,000 pizzas.


Yeah, right. They can't even lift my door up 7
feet. I have to lift up at least 50 pounds to get
the door up. I think the door weighs a lot less
than a Volkswagen.

Best access when open, yes. But most stored energy- the spring is under
a LOT less tension when the door is open.

Hopefully, I will not have to mess with mine.

-D

yourname wrote:
Joseph Meehan wrote:
wrote:

How?


If you are thinking garage door, the answer is the yellow pages. This
job is dangerous for someone who does not know what they are doing.



Why is it that people are so damn afraid of springs. Are you afraid to
change the shocks on your car? Damn

well, this is good for someone like you and me

BUT...

i seen a dude climb a ladder with the tools you describe

one tool slips...the other tool is fixed on the overhead bar. the bar
is loaded
from the spring...it spins around and goes into his wrist...it rips out
his
wrist basically

don't encourage this sort of thing

you should say...

"I am experienced with this sort of thing"

it is not for average homeowner

sure, if they had the right knowledge it could be painless and easy
but it's a once in a lifetime matter for most and they should
hire a professional

abRokeNegRo wrote:
yourname wrote:

Joseph Meehan wrote:

wrote:


How?


If you are thinking garage door, the answer is the yellow pages. This
job is dangerous for someone who does not know what they are doing.



Why is it that people are so damn afraid of springs. Are you afraid to
change the shocks on your car? Damn


well, this is good for someone like you and me

BUT...

i seen a dude climb a ladder with the tools you describe

one tool slips...the other tool is fixed on the overhead bar. the bar
is loaded
from the spring...it spins around and goes into his wrist...it rips out
his
wrist basically

don't encourage this sort of thing

you should say...

"I am experienced with this sort of thing"

it is not for average homeowner

sure, if they had the right knowledge it could be painless and easy
but it's a once in a lifetime matter for most and they should
hire a professional



sorry, I agree and disagree.

I believe in giving people appropriate information. I think my
description is accurate. Including the door being down. Neither of the
doors I deal with can be adjusted with the door up, the door is in the
way. PLUS, the door can't fall when it is already down. Anyway, I warned
the guy he could break his collarbone, the most likely injury IMO, other
than getting scared and falling off the ladder.

Is this guy capable?

I dunno, that is for him to figure out.

I learned by asking and figuring it out myself.

Maybe he learns the same way

If he does, all the 'call a door guy' comments are pretty useless.

You will. On occasion see me tell people to call someone, but this is
the one topic that irks me.

A spring compessor in changing a shock is MUCH more dangerous than a
stupid garage door. Why? Because it is removed compressed, energy
stored. A garage door spring is removed slack, when it is wound, it is
restrained by the shaft. If it breaks, it will scare the crap out of
you, but it cannot travel anywhere, unlike the 120 lb/in spring on the
back of my car

yourname wrote:
Joseph Meehan wrote:

wrote:

How?



If you are thinking garage door, the answer is the yellow pages.
This job is dangerous for someone who does not know what they are doing.



Why is it that people are so damn afraid of springs. Are you afraid to
change the shocks on your car? Damn


Just curious, how do car shocks have anything to do with garage door
springs?


you need: 2 bars maybe 30 inches long, not too long not too short.
Probably 3/8 or 1/2 inch diameter

wrench to fit the bolts in the outboard spring mount[square head on my
doors]

There are 4 holes in the outboard ends of the springs. The bars need to
just fit in them.


standing on a very sturdy ladder, you will need to first take the
weight of the spring with your shoulder. Stick the bar in the hole that
is closest to horizontal.If you let the bar loose it will go flying,
break your collar bone or somehting similarly ugly.
So you are standing on the ladder, door down, facing the door, bar
resting firmly on your shoulder. when you lift the bar you will see the
cable slack.

loosen the bolts clamping the spring retainer to the bar. the bar
should be weighing on your shoulder, not any space in between you and it.

The force will now be on your shoulder and not on the door.
Take the second bar and place it in one of the holes above the one you
are using and push it up, away, towards the door/wall.

This will allow you to remove the bar resting on your shoulder.

carefully lower the second bar till it rests on your shoulder

repeat.

When there is no force left on the bar, you can do the other side.

tightening is the reverse process

Note that there is always a bar in the hole, so that the spring can only
spin less than half a turn and is not very dangerous unless you put your
head in there or use some old rotten piece of tubing instead of a
proper solid steel bar.

Completely replacing a spring is a little more complicated than just
adjusting, but not rocket science. Note exactly how the cable is wound
on the pulley.

Before you start the job, inspect your door thoroughly for any damage that
may have been the result of the spring's failure. Make sure the center
support is securely fastened, as well as the track's flag bracket, jamb
brackets and rear track hangers. Any discrepancies should be addressed
before you work on that spring.

If your door has only one spring and it is broken then you just:

1. Unbolt the stationary cone from the center support and slide it over
towards the drum.
2. Take note of the position of the end bearing plate, then unbolt the
bearing plate and slide it off the shaft. (You will probably have to tap
it with a hammer and wrestle it off due to indentations made on the shaft by
the set screws.)
3. Loosen the drum's set screws and slide the drum off the shaft.
4. This will be a good time to file down any indentations that you find on
the shaft.
5. .Slide the broken spring off the shaft.
6. Slide the new spring onto the shaft.
7. Slide the drum back onto the shaft.
8. Slide the end bearing back onto the shaft and bolt it down in the same
spot it was originally at.
9. Refasten the spring to the center support plate.
10. Go the opposite drum and ensure that the drum's set screws are tight and
that the cable is wrapped properly around the drum. Clamp a "Vise Grip"
onto the shaft so that it is up against the wall preventing the drum from
turning allowing the cable to go slack.
11. Go back to the loose drum reconnect the cable, turn the drum so that the
cable wraps securely around the drum. Tighten the drum's set screws.
12. Check both cable's tautness, they should be the same. Adjust as
needed.
13. Wind the spring with a couple of steel rods that fit securely and all
the way into the winding plug's four holes. There is a chart at
http://www.garagedoorsupply.com/tors...tallation.html which will
tell you how many turns to wind your spring to. This chart is only a guide,
you must test your door's balance after the spring is wound and adjust the
tension as needed.

If your door has two springs that share the center support then you MUST
remove the tension from the spring that is not broken before you undo the
stationary cone from the center support.

As you may have realized by now, this repair is not rocket science. Anyone
can do it provided they have a little mechanical aptitude, use caution and
common sense.

If you have any additional questions feel free to contact me.

Rich
====================================
Garage Door Parts, LLC
973-472-4818
http://www.garagedoorsupply.com
====================================

wrote in message
oups.com...
How?

yourname wrote:

sorry, I agree and disagree.

no apologies needed

in general, it is the square holes where you put your bars that become
very dangerous..

even if it looks simple it is not

i know this because, i know the torque behind it...
i also know if one does not have strong hands, quick reflexes
etc...and are just generally soft handed...they don't wanna
fornicate with it...

you end up with 2 bars in your hands with enough pressure to snap dey
wrist
or break a finger etc...

so get real this is not everyday changing ac filters in the house

in general, it is the square holes where you put your bars that become
very dangerous..

my holes are all round.......I'll just leave that one hanging

even if it looks simple it is not

twas simple fer me

On 18 Jan 2006 05:42:56 -0800, wrote:

Best access when open, yes. But most stored energy- the spring is under
a LOT less tension when the door is open.

Hopefully, I will not have to mess with mine.

-D

Which one of those "open"s means "closed"? I guess the first one.
--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what
to have for lunch. Liberty is a well armed lamb
contesting the vote." - Benjamin Franklin

Great site - with all the appropriate warnings I've bookmarked it.

D'oh!
Best access when CLOSED, yes. But most stored energy- the spring is under
a LOT less tension when the door is open.

-D

"Rich" wrote in message news:BKtzf.28697$MG1.23527@trnddc05...
Before you start the job, inspect your door thoroughly for any damage that
may have been the result of the spring's failure. Make sure the center
support is securely fastened, as well as the track's flag bracket, jamb
brackets and rear track hangers. Any discrepancies should be addressed
before you work on that spring.

If your door has only one spring and it is broken then you just:

1. Unbolt the stationary cone from the center support and slide it over
towards the drum.
2. Take note of the position of the end bearing plate, then unbolt the
bearing plate and slide it off the shaft. (You will probably have to tap
it with a hammer and wrestle it off due to indentations made on the shaft by
the set screws.)
3. Loosen the drum's set screws and slide the drum off the shaft.

(You will probably have to tap
it with a hammer and wrestle it off due to indentations made on the shaft by
the set screws.)


4. This will be a good time to file down any indentations that you find on
the shaft.
5. .Slide the broken spring off the shaft.
6. Slide the new spring onto the shaft.
7. Slide the drum back onto the shaft.
8. Slide the end bearing back onto the shaft and bolt it down in the same
spot it was originally at.
9. Refasten the spring to the center support plate.
10. Go the opposite drum and ensure that the drum's set screws are tight and
that the cable is wrapped properly around the drum. Clamp a "Vise Grip"
onto the shaft so that it is up against the wall preventing the drum from
turning allowing the cable to go slack.
11. Go back to the loose drum reconnect the cable, turn the drum so that the
cable wraps securely around the drum. Tighten the drum's set screws.
12. Check both cable's tautness, they should be the same. Adjust as
needed.
13. Wind the spring with a couple of steel rods that fit securely and all
the way into the winding plug's four holes. There is a chart at
http://www.garagedoorsupply.com/tors...tallation.html which will
tell you how many turns to wind your spring to. This chart is only a guide,
you must test your door's balance after the spring is wound and adjust the
tension as needed.

If your door has two springs that share the center support then you MUST
remove the tension from the spring that is not broken before you undo the
stationary cone from the center support.

As you may have realized by now, this repair is not rocket science. Anyone
can do it provided they have a little mechanical aptitude, use caution and
common sense.

If you have any additional questions feel free to contact me.

Rich
====================================
Garage Door Parts, LLC
973-472-4818
http://www.garagedoorsupply.com
====================================

wrote in message
oups.com...
How?

wrote:
Best access when open, yes. But most stored energy- the spring is under
a LOT less tension when the door is open.

Hopefully, I will not have to mess with mine.

-D

In many installations there is NO access when
closed. It would be nice to unwind it when the
door is open, but that just isn't possible in many
cases. Still, there is no problem if you work
slowly and carefully.

George E. Cawthon wrote:
wrote:

Best access when open, yes. But most stored energy- the spring is under
a LOT less tension when the door is open.

Hopefully, I will not have to mess with mine.

-D

In many installations there is NO access when closed. It would be nice
to unwind it when the door is open, but that just isn't possible in many
cases. Still, there is no problem if you work slowly and carefully.


How on earth can there be no access when closed? Would not the door have
to be below the spring? I have never seen any such install, and can't
immediately picture it

yourname wrote:
George E. Cawthon wrote:

wrote:

Best access when open, yes. But most stored energy- the spring is under
a LOT less tension when the door is open.

Hopefully, I will not have to mess with mine.

-D

In many installations there is NO access when closed. It would be
nice to unwind it when the door is open, but that just isn't possible
in many cases. Still, there is no problem if you work slowly and
carefully.



How on earth can there be no access when closed? Would not the door have
to be below the spring? I have never seen any such install, and can't
immediately picture it
oops, should be "no access when the door is open."
I can't picture it either. Good catch.

wrote:
How?


Call a professional. Torsion springs scare me more than gas. I managed
to install my gas line. I wont risk the springs.

Besides, youll need them serviced every few years or so if its garage
door opener anyway. good to start a relationship with a good shop.

--
Thank you,


CL Gilbert
"Then said I, Wisdom [is] better than strength: nevertheless the poor
man's wisdom [is] despised, and his words are not heard." Ecclesiastes 9:16