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#1
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louie wrote:
Adding 6" of cellulose to the attic will help tremendously, so long as the soffit vents are kept open with some baffles. You'll add an average R value of 3.5 per inch of the cellulose so you'll increase your attic insulation from R-19 to R-40. Which is what, about 3% difference in heat loss? Other things you can do is move around your house with an incense stick looking for drafts. Seal up as many drafts and leaks as you can. There are professional services that will install a temporary blower into a doorway and will actually pull air from the house, creating a slight vacuum. Then they will actually test how much negative pressure is created and how much air volume is moving through the fan and from that determine how "leaky" your house is. They usually go around with a smoke pencil looking for leaks while this is happening too. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#2
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CJT wrote:
louie wrote: Adding 6" of cellulose to the attic will help tremendously, so long as the soffit vents are kept open with some baffles. You'll add an average R value of 3.5 per inch of the cellulose so you'll increase your attic insulation from R-19 to R-40. Which is what, about 3% difference in heat loss? Oh, and that's the heat loss through the attic, which is only a fraction of the whole-house heat loss. As you can probably tell, I'm skeptical. Other things you can do is move around your house with an incense stick looking for drafts. Seal up as many drafts and leaks as you can. There are professional services that will install a temporary blower into a doorway and will actually pull air from the house, creating a slight vacuum. Then they will actually test how much negative pressure is created and how much air volume is moving through the fan and from that determine how "leaky" your house is. They usually go around with a smoke pencil looking for leaks while this is happening too. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#3
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"CJT" wrote in message
... CJT wrote: louie wrote: Adding 6" of cellulose to the attic will help tremendously, so long as the soffit vents are kept open with some baffles. You'll add an average R value of 3.5 per inch of the cellulose so you'll increase your attic insulation from R-19 to R-40. Which is what, about 3% difference in heat loss? Oh, and that's the heat loss through the attic, which is only a fraction of the whole-house heat loss. As you can probably tell, I'm skeptical. Comfort is related to how quickly heat is being lost, and that's difficult to quantify. But, what if this mysterious comfort goal lies somewhere in that 3%? It would be a shame not to try. |
#4
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Doug Kanter wrote:
"CJT" wrote in message ... CJT wrote: louie wrote: Adding 6" of cellulose to the attic will help tremendously, so long as the soffit vents are kept open with some baffles. You'll add an average R value of 3.5 per inch of the cellulose so you'll increase your attic insulation from R-19 to R-40. Which is what, about 3% difference in heat loss? Oh, and that's the heat loss through the attic, which is only a fraction of the whole-house heat loss. As you can probably tell, I'm skeptical. Comfort is related to how quickly heat is being lost, and that's difficult to quantify. But, what if this mysterious comfort goal lies somewhere in that 3%? It would be a shame not to try. It's only money ... -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
#5
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Heat rises, insulating an attic is the cheapest way to save. 3% or
whatever loss you figure you save on utilities and increase resale value. Adding 6" or R 21, well next year it will have settled 15-20% and be R 18. I put in R 100 it settled to R 80, an R figure that is optimal not what your local Minimum codes require. Through all I did I cut Ng by 60%, everything has a payback when it comes to insulation since standards do not reflect 1.70 a therm Ng, they are outdated from the 50s. |
#6
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CJT wrote:
CJT wrote: louie wrote: Adding 6" of cellulose to the attic will help tremendously, so long as the soffit vents are kept open with some baffles. You'll add an average R value of 3.5 per inch of the cellulose so you'll increase your attic insulation from R-19 to R-40. Which is what, about 3% difference in heat loss? Oh, and that's the heat loss through the attic, which is only a fraction of the whole-house heat loss. As you can probably tell, I'm skeptical. But you are wrong. Since heat rises, especially in hot air heated houses, the temp differential is much higher on the ceiling than on the wall. There is absolutely a point of diminishing returns, but if you do a real heat loss analysis on your house[it is not difficult, a pocket calculator is helpful, but not required] you will find that half the heat goes out the windows, and half the remaining goes out the roof. SO if you take that[gross] generalization, and you burn 1000 gallons of oil a season, figure 250 of it goes out the ceiling. At 2.50 a gallon that is 625 A SEASON. Are you betting on a return to 90 cent a gallon oil? I'm not. lets say with these made up numbers you have r20 in the attic, the numbers tell you that it should save you 125 gallons a year by going to r40. |
#7
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CJT wrote:
CJT wrote: louie wrote: Adding 6" of cellulose to the attic will help tremendously, so long as the soffit vents are kept open with some baffles. You'll add an average R value of 3.5 per inch of the cellulose so you'll increase your attic insulation from R-19 to R-40. Which is what, about 3% difference in heat loss? Oh, and that's the heat loss through the attic, which is only a fraction of the whole-house heat loss. As you can probably tell, I'm skeptical. Other things you can do is move around your house with an incense stick looking for drafts. Seal up as many drafts and leaks as you can. There are professional services that will install a temporary blower into a doorway and will actually pull air from the house, creating a slight vacuum. Then they will actually test how much negative pressure is created and how much air volume is moving through the fan and from that determine how "leaky" your house is. They usually go around with a smoke pencil looking for leaks while this is happening too. I think it will be more than a 3% saving. Say the temp difference from inside to outside is 50 degrees. The heat flow with R19 insulation is 50/19 = 2.6 in some arbitrary units like BTUs per fornight. With R34 the loss flow will be 50/34 = 1.8 in the same units. So in some amount of time the heat lost will be (2.6-1.8)/2.6 = 0.31 or 31 per cent less. |
#8
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Stubby wrote:
CJT wrote: CJT wrote: louie wrote: Adding 6" of cellulose to the attic will help tremendously, so long as the soffit vents are kept open with some baffles. You'll add an average R value of 3.5 per inch of the cellulose so you'll increase your attic insulation from R-19 to R-40. Which is what, about 3% difference in heat loss? Oh, and that's the heat loss through the attic, which is only a fraction of the whole-house heat loss. As you can probably tell, I'm skeptical. Other things you can do is move around your house with an incense stick looking for drafts. Seal up as many drafts and leaks as you can. There are professional services that will install a temporary blower into a doorway and will actually pull air from the house, creating a slight vacuum. Then they will actually test how much negative pressure is created and how much air volume is moving through the fan and from that determine how "leaky" your house is. They usually go around with a smoke pencil looking for leaks while this is happening too. I think it will be more than a 3% saving. Say the temp difference from inside to outside is 50 degrees. The heat flow with R19 insulation is 50/19 = 2.6 in some arbitrary units like BTUs per fornight. With R34 the loss flow will be 50/34 = 1.8 in the same units. So in some amount of time the heat lost will be (2.6-1.8)/2.6 = 0.31 or 31 per cent less. That's what I get for trying to do the calculation in my head. Thanks for the correction. -- The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to minimize spam. Our true address is of the form . |
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