Does anyone know how to fix this? There is a fill line, but about 50% of the
time the water ontinues until it overflows. I can stop it by manually
pulling up the rod with the black float.
Does it need new parts or just an adjustment?

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...th/bath004.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...th/bath003.jpg

First of all, where's the short rubber or plastic tube from the valve
body to the overflow drain tube?

Second, the screw on the valve end of the float lever is probably the
adjustment; turn it IN a 1/4 turn and see if that solves the problem.

Otherwise, the "seal" or washer inside the inlet valve ought to be
replaced. $2 +/- at local hardware.
Turn the water OFF.
Remove the little locking tang from valve body, twist the top of the
valve OFF. The rubber seal is before you.

Good pictures!

http://www.fluidmaster.com/
is their interactive website for this.
you can simply replace the fill valve and throw the old float fill
valve away.

Rex wrote:
Does anyone know how to fix this? There is a fill line, but about 50% of the
time the water ontinues until it overflows. I can stop it by manually
pulling up the rod with the black float.
Does it need new parts or just an adjustment?

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...th/bath004.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...th/bath003.jpg


My comment does not relate directly to your problem, which I bet has
been addressed by the other posters, but it also appears, from your
clear photos, that you are missing the little tube which attaches to the
valve body and should be clipped to squirt into the overflow tube. The
water that squirts there helps the bowl fill up quickly and properly.
-=Art=-

"T.G. Lambach" wrote in message
...
First of all, where's the short rubber or plastic tube from the valve body
to the overflow drain tube?

Second, the screw on the valve end of the float lever is probably the
adjustment; turn it IN a 1/4 turn and see if that solves the problem.

Otherwise, the "seal" or washer inside the inlet valve ought to be
replaced. $2 +/- at local hardware.
Turn the water OFF.
Remove the little locking tang from valve body, twist the top of the valve
OFF. The rubber seal is before you.

Good pictures!

It has never had the rubber tube and there has been no problem until
recently. No water ever runs out of that opening when the toilet is
flushed, so I don't see what adding a tube to the spout would do.

There is a fill-line marked about an inch or two below the top of the
overflow tube and the problem is that the tank continues to fill past that
mark even when it stops automatcally.
Most of the time the tank will stop filling just as the water starts
spilling into the overflow tube (but even that allows more water than needed
to fill the tank) and other times the float doesn't ever kick up far enough
the to stop the water and I have to lift it by hand.
The stopper is not leaking.

Which adjustment causes the float to rise higher up at a lower water level
so it doesn't keep filling past the fill line?

Rex wrote:
"T.G. Lambach" wrote in message
...

First of all, where's the short rubber or plastic tube from the valve body
to the overflow drain tube?

Second, the screw on the valve end of the float lever is probably the
adjustment; turn it IN a 1/4 turn and see if that solves the problem.

Otherwise, the "seal" or washer inside the inlet valve ought to be
replaced. $2 +/- at local hardware.
Turn the water OFF.
Remove the little locking tang from valve body, twist the top of the valve
OFF. The rubber seal is before you.

Good pictures!


It has never had the rubber tube and there has been no problem until
recently. No water ever runs out of that opening when the toilet is
flushed, so I don't see what adding a tube to the spout would do.

There is a fill-line marked about an inch or two below the top of the
overflow tube and the problem is that the tank continues to fill past that
mark even when it stops automatcally.
Most of the time the tank will stop filling just as the water starts
spilling into the overflow tube (but even that allows more water than needed
to fill the tank) and other times the float doesn't ever kick up far enough
the to stop the water and I have to lift it by hand.
The stopper is not leaking.

Which adjustment causes the float to rise higher up at a lower water level
so it doesn't keep filling past the fill line?



The screw at the top of the valve controls how
high the float rises to shut the valve. Bending
the brass rod (float arm) down should also make
the valve close sooner. However, it looks to me
like the the float arm contacts the center tube so
you cannot make the float drop correctly and then
turn off at the correct point. Also the float may
rub on the back wall of the tank. Someone has
replaced parts (or it was made that way) so that
the parts don't fit correctly. The float arm
needs to be moved toward the front of the tank to
miss the center tube and the float should be over
in the center of the tank (front-to-back). You
might be able to accomplish that by turning the
fill mechanism assembly, but that means turning
the water off, draining the tank, loosening the
fill mechanism, twisting it, tightening, and
checking for leaks when you refill the tank.

Or you could just replace the mechanism with one
of those where the float is part of the fill fill
valve mechanism.

If it were mine, I would first try turning the
fill mechanism so that the float is free and
misses the center tube. If that didn't work, I
would probably just buy a bit longer arm and bend
it so that it fit correctly. That means you need
to bend it laterally so it misses the center tube
and possibly bending it down as needed at the
float end.

Looking down:
----------
\
\-----------Float

Looking sideways:

-----------------------\
\Float
After marking the rod, you need to unscrew it so
that you don't mess up the float or the valve
while you are bending the rod. Then screw it back
in when you finish bending it.

"George E. Cawthon" wrote in message
...
Rex wrote:
"T.G. Lambach" wrote in message
...

First of all, where's the short rubber or plastic tube from the valve
body to the overflow drain tube?

Second, the screw on the valve end of the float lever is probably the
adjustment; turn it IN a 1/4 turn and see if that solves the problem.

Otherwise, the "seal" or washer inside the inlet valve ought to be
replaced. $2 +/- at local hardware.
Turn the water OFF.
Remove the little locking tang from valve body, twist the top of the
valve OFF. The rubber seal is before you.

Good pictures!


It has never had the rubber tube and there has been no problem until
recently. No water ever runs out of that opening when the toilet is
flushed, so I don't see what adding a tube to the spout would do.

There is a fill-line marked about an inch or two below the top of the
overflow tube and the problem is that the tank continues to fill past
that mark even when it stops automatcally.
Most of the time the tank will stop filling just as the water starts
spilling into the overflow tube (but even that allows more water than
needed to fill the tank) and other times the float doesn't ever kick up
far enough the to stop the water and I have to lift it by hand.
The stopper is not leaking.

Which adjustment causes the float to rise higher up at a lower water
level so it doesn't keep filling past the fill line?



The screw at the top of the valve controls how high the float rises to
shut the valve. Bending the brass rod (float arm) down should also make
the valve close sooner. However, it looks to me like the the float arm
contacts the center tube so you cannot make the float drop correctly and
then turn off at the correct point. Also the float may rub on the back
wall of the tank. Someone has replaced parts (or it was made that way) so
that the parts don't fit correctly. The float arm needs to be moved
toward the front of the tank to miss the center tube and the float should
be over in the center of the tank (front-to-back). You might be able to
accomplish that by turning the fill mechanism assembly, but that means
turning the water off, draining the tank, loosening the fill mechanism,
twisting it, tightening, and checking for leaks when you refill the tank.



I bent the float arm downward and now it shuts off near the marked fill
line.
The arm must have been bent down when it was first installed and
straightened itself out over 2 years.

You are missing a hose that goes from the blue fill tube to the
white pipe.

I would turn the black/blue assembly clockwise so that the
brass/aluminum rod with the ball on it can travel up and down
smoothly without hitting the white tube. Grasp the brass rod and
bend it down slightly, flush, and watch. If the water is still
coming a bit too high, bend the brass rod down some more. This
allows the black float to lift the arm sooner and shut off the
water.

Hope this helps.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"Arthur" wrote in message
...
Rex wrote:
Does anyone know how to fix this? There is a fill line, but
about 50% of the time the water ontinues until it overflows. I
can stop it by manually pulling up the rod with the black
float.
Does it need new parts or just an adjustment?

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...th/bath004.jpg

http://i35.photobucket.com/albums/d1...th/bath003.jpg
My comment does not relate directly to your problem, which I bet
has been addressed by the other posters, but it also appears,
from your clear photos, that you are missing the little tube
which attaches to the valve body and should be clipped to squirt
into the overflow tube. The water that squirts there helps the
bowl fill up quickly and properly.
-=Art=-

On Mon, 12 Dec 2005 14:35:57 -0800, "Rex" wrote:


"T.G. Lambach" wrote in message
...
First of all, where's the short rubber or plastic tube from the valve body
to the overflow drain tube?

Second, the screw on the valve end of the float lever is probably the
adjustment; turn it IN a 1/4 turn and see if that solves the problem.

Otherwise, the "seal" or washer inside the inlet valve ought to be
replaced. $2 +/- at local hardware.
Turn the water OFF.
Remove the little locking tang from valve body, twist the top of the valve
OFF. The rubber seal is before you.

Good pictures!

It has never had the rubber tube and there has been no problem until
recently. No water ever runs out of that opening when the toilet is
flushed, so I don't see what adding a tube to the spout would do.

There is a fill-line marked about an inch or two below the top of the
overflow tube and the problem is that the tank continues to fill past that
mark even when it stops automatcally.
Most of the time the tank will stop filling just as the water starts
spilling into the overflow tube (but even that allows more water than needed
to fill the tank) and other times the float doesn't ever kick up far enough
the to stop the water and I have to lift it by hand.
The stopper is not leaking.

Which adjustment causes the float to rise higher up at a lower water level
so it doesn't keep filling past the fill line?



Just bend the rod to lower the float a little.