I have a bonus room over my garage upstairs, which is at the end of
about a 40' run of 12x8 duct (furnace is downstairs on opposite end of
house). My heating is zoned (up and down), but the only way I could
get any real airflow to the bonus room was to close down way too far on
the branch duct dampers upstairs.

I installed a fantech FX8 8" inline fan as a booster fan, controlled by
a thermostat in the bonus room (using an Argo AR822 relay). I used
sound isolation mounts (rubber plate form mounts from Mcmaster Carr),
and the fantech neoprene mounting clamps to connect it to the fuct work
(prevents transmission of sound).

It works great, and I cannot hear the noise of the fan when standing in
the room directly below it. It provides alot of air, and has solved my
heating problems.

I read some previous posts on this board talking about too much noise
or ineffective fans. This solution works great.

Tim wrote:
I have a bonus room over my garage upstairs, which is at the end of
about a 40' run of 12x8 duct (furnace is downstairs on opposite end of
house). My heating is zoned (up and down), but the only way I could
get any real airflow to the bonus room was to close down way too far
on the branch duct dampers upstairs.

I installed a fantech FX8 8" inline fan as a booster fan, controlled
by a thermostat in the bonus room (using an Argo AR822 relay). I used
sound isolation mounts (rubber plate form mounts from Mcmaster Carr),
and the fantech neoprene mounting clamps to connect it to the fuct
work (prevents transmission of sound).

It works great, and I cannot hear the noise of the fan when standing
in the room directly below it. It provides alot of air, and has
solved my heating problems.

I read some previous posts on this board talking about too much noise
or ineffective fans. This solution works great.

I am glad it works for you. Many people report little success with
booster fans in general. I would have to say that they are not a good
substitute for a well designed system. For that you need a professional how
knows and cares about what he is doing. Having said that in my current home
I had one room that was always too cool or hot. I would have preferred to
rebalance the system for the start, but it has too many other issues and
they are just going to wait until I am ready to do it right. I did add in
in-line booster fan and it is controlled by the furnace. It does work well,
but I will replace it and redesign the ducts when I need to replace the
furnace - AC.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

Why wasn't it sufficient to just use FanTech's neoprene compliant
couplings? I'm about to install a FX8 blower in my basement for a
cooktop down draft exhaust and would like to keep it as quiet as I can
reasonably do. FanTech also has an in line muffler that I'm curious about.

Boden

Tim wrote:
I have a bonus room over my garage upstairs, which is at the end of
about a 40' run of 12x8 duct (furnace is downstairs on opposite end of
house). My heating is zoned (up and down), but the only way I could
get any real airflow to the bonus room was to close down way too far on
the branch duct dampers upstairs.

I installed a fantech FX8 8" inline fan as a booster fan, controlled by
a thermostat in the bonus room (using an Argo AR822 relay). I used
sound isolation mounts (rubber plate form mounts from Mcmaster Carr),
and the fantech neoprene mounting clamps to connect it to the fuct work
(prevents transmission of sound).

It works great, and I cannot hear the noise of the fan when standing in
the room directly below it. It provides alot of air, and has solved my
heating problems.

I read some previous posts on this board talking about too much noise
or ineffective fans. This solution works great.

This is Turtle.

i'm in the HVAC business and will say rarely will i ever see a fan
booster fan ever work out. i'm glade to hear your problem was solved
with this booster fan.

TURTLE

Count me as happy with a booster fan. I have an upstairs bedroom that
is at the far end of the duct run and only served by small round ducts
that run from the end of the basement run all the way upstairs. I
added a booster fan near the end of the duct run in the basement and it
made a noticeable difference in summer cooling. It didn't entirely
solve it, but it helped and the cost/benefit was worth it.

Me too. We have a room between the main part of the house and the garage
and have a booster fan in the duct to that room. When it is off the room is
cold now and when it is on it is fine. No problem, no worries.
Tomes

wrote in message
oups.com...
Count me as happy with a booster fan. I have an upstairs bedroom that
is at the far end of the duct run and only served by small round ducts
that run from the end of the basement run all the way upstairs. I
added a booster fan near the end of the duct run in the basement and it
made a noticeable difference in summer cooling. It didn't entirely
solve it, but it helped and the cost/benefit was worth it.

turtle posted:
i'm in the HVAC business and will say rarely will i ever see a fan
booster fan ever work out.

I have heard that frequently, and between that and reports of too much
noise I was hesitant to go for this solution. The cost of replacing a
long section of duct with 12x10 or larger was prohibitive, so I figured
I would give the booster fan a try.

Part of my problem is that between the furnace in the basement and the
duct upstairs, my duct makes a total of (count them) 8 90 degree turns.
Trying to make this into a straighter shot would be pretty difficult.

boden posted:
Why wasn't it sufficient to just use FanTech's neoprene compliant couplings?

It probably would work just fine if you suspended the fan from them
(like they show in their brochure). I wanted to mount it more
securely, so used the plate form sound isolation mounts. Probably
overkill, but I do alot of work with vibration dampened equipment, and
I was trying to ensure that no noise would be transmitted through to
the ceiling joists.

Tim wrote:
turtle posted:
i'm in the HVAC business and will say rarely will i ever see a fan
booster fan ever work out.

I have heard that frequently, and between that and reports of too much
noise I was hesitant to go for this solution. The cost of replacing a
long section of duct with 12x10 or larger was prohibitive, so I figured
I would give the booster fan a try.

Part of my problem is that between the furnace in the basement and the
duct upstairs, my duct makes a total of (count them) 8 90 degree turns.
Trying to make this into a straighter shot would be pretty difficult.


This is Turtle.

For every 90 degree elbow you put in a duct work, it restricks 1/27 th
of the air moving through it. Put 27 -- 90 degree elbow in a ductwork
line and it will be a plugged up air ductand no air will move through
it.

TURTLE

TURTLE wrote:

Tim wrote:

turtle posted:

i'm in the HVAC business and will say rarely will i ever see a fan

booster fan ever work out.

I have heard that frequently, and between that and reports of too much
noise I was hesitant to go for this solution. The cost of replacing a
long section of duct with 12x10 or larger was prohibitive, so I figured
I would give the booster fan a try.

Part of my problem is that between the furnace in the basement and the
duct upstairs, my duct makes a total of (count them) 8 90 degree turns.
Trying to make this into a straighter shot would be pretty difficult.



This is Turtle.

For every 90 degree elbow you put in a duct work, it restricks 1/27 th
of the air moving through it. Put 27 -- 90 degree elbow in a ductwork
line and it will be a plugged up air ductand no air will move through
it.

TURTLE

I don't think that's how the math works.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

For every 90 degree elbow you put in a duct work, it restricks 1/27 th
of the air moving through it. Put 27 -- 90 degree elbow in a ductwork
line and it will be a plugged up air ductand no air will move through
it.

By my figuring, you'd actually get closer to 36% of the original flow.

On 13 Dec 2005 22:38:07 -0800, "TURTLE" wrote:


Tim wrote:
turtle posted:
i'm in the HVAC business and will say rarely will i ever see a fan
booster fan ever work out.

I have heard that frequently, and between that and reports of too much
noise I was hesitant to go for this solution. The cost of replacing a
long section of duct with 12x10 or larger was prohibitive, so I figured
I would give the booster fan a try.

Part of my problem is that between the furnace in the basement and the
duct upstairs, my duct makes a total of (count them) 8 90 degree turns.
Trying to make this into a straighter shot would be pretty difficult.


This is Turtle.

For every 90 degree elbow you put in a duct work, it restricks 1/27 th
of the air moving through it. Put 27 -- 90 degree elbow in a ductwork
line and it will be a plugged up air ductand no air will move through
it.

TURTLE

Ok Terry ........................I just gotta say
With a statement like that............
That is one of the silliest, goofiest, dumbest, bird brain things Ive
heard in quite sometime. I must of missed that class?
When you drink, you shouldnt type. :-)
Bubba

TURTLE wrote:
...

This is Turtle.

For every 90 degree elbow you put in a duct work, it restricks 1/27 th
of the air moving through it. Put 27 -- 90 degree elbow in a ductwork
line and it will be a plugged up air ductand no air will move through
it.

TURTLE

Actually it will be 36.096% of the air will be going through. See a
elbow by elbow account below. :-)

0.962963
0.927298
0.892953
0.859881
0.828034
0.797366
0.767834
0.739395
0.71201
0.68564
0.660245
0.635792
0.612244
0.589568
0.567733
0.546705
0.526457
0.506959
0.488182
0.470102
0.45269
0.435924
0.419779
0.404231
0.38926
0.374843
0.36096


--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

"Goedjn" wrote in message
...

For every 90 degree elbow you put in a duct work, it restricks 1/27 th
of the air moving through it. Put 27 -- 90 degree elbow in a ductwork
line and it will be a plugged up air ductand no air will move through
it.

By my figuring, you'd actually get closer to 36% of the original flow.


Figure it correctly, and you need to figure in whats called TEL, and for
every 90, its another 5ft added to it, then you take your ductulator, and
see how it figures with your friction co-efficient and see how bad you
killed flow.