My furnace has been determined to be unrepairable. Giving the HVAC
contractor the benefit of the doubt for now and assuming he's correct
in this determination (I'm willing to believe it - rusted out heat
exchanger, rusted out burners, bad blower motor, furnace is approx 15
yrs old with some obvious water damage in and around the heat
exchanger).

The house is unoccupied right now while we're doing rennovations and
will probably remain so for the next 2 months or so, so I have the
luxury of some time to look for a good but affordable furnace and
contractor - though sooner is better since drywall mud dries VERY
slowly in a cold house. Here are my needs/wants/ideas, please comment:

1) the house is approximately 1500 sq ft of living space, about 1000 of
that is original, 2 1/2 story, 1920's, uninsulated construction (the
rest is a single story addition with 2x4 walls and fiberglass
insulation).

2) single pane storm windows throughout most of the house (I plan to
eventually fix the insulation and windows when money and time allow,
but the furnace is an immediate problem obviously)

3) The house has a brick/masonry chimney, at what efficiency rating is
a PVC liner required (or am I wrong in thinking it's required at all?)?

4) I think a multi or variable speed blower would be beneficial,
comments? worth the extra cost?

5) Is a two-stage burner worth the extra cost?

6) the current AC system appears to be an add-on system with an a-frame
shaped evaporator installed into the supply plenum above the furnace
(might have contributed to the water problems that rusted this unit
out). I don't have the funds to replace this, but I might be able to
re-install it properly if it is not currently right.

7) fuel is natural gas, installation is in the basement (unfinished -
unlikely to ever be finished)

8) there is no filtration on this current unit, I'd like to add one but
have not yet decided what type - leaning towards a basic, paper filter
type. No major allergies in this household (some seasonal pollen
allergies, minor)

Anyway, those are what I'm looking for in features. I've looked at
Trane, Rheem websites so far and will keep trying to educate myself
here. I'm also contacting local contractors to get quotes but haven't
received any yet.

Thanks in advance for advice.

forgot to mention that this is in the Baltimore, MD region. Winter
appears quite mild so far compared to Syracuse, NY (recently moved).

replace the heat AND air conditioning newest and of the highest
efficiency you can afford. and the sooner the better!. also book your
insulation job today, there's a waiting list. an uninsulated house is
too expensive to heat or cool these days. go variable speed blower and
2 stage burner if you can afford it after paying for replacement
insulated windows and insulation. for maximum comfort and understanding
if your system is operational, start operations with a simple
thermostat so everybody can set it and be comfortable during your first
year in your new house before you graduate to the vcr programming style
thermostat that everyone hates. hang a separate digital thermometer and
humidity receiver at the thermostat and the transmitter outdoors in the
shade to the north side of the house so you can monitor the fun. read
your gas meter and electric meter every day.

Fix the insulation stuff first, then replace the furnace with something
efficient. I would have to think that any house with a addition
probably has an improperly sized furnace.

Most important is the installer he can make it all work right the first
time, so talk to friends and neighbors. The more you know the more
difficult it gets because so much is offered today. Efficiency goes from
80-95%, there are energy saving VS DC blowers,auto temp tracking
humidifiers and complete thermostat control on high end units. Unless
you live where heating and electric usage is low look into a 95% VS DC,
but get the 10 yr warranty as there is more to go wrong.

Consumer Reports did a pole of apx 35000 over 5 years on reliability
and goodman came in a clear winner of last place.

First you need a written load calculation on the house and maybe
ductwork, Since you are insulating get it both ways, where you are now
and with insulation. and try to go with the lowest btu you can ,
oversize and you will be less comfortable, heating to fast and unevenly,
I insulated later and regret my equipment size as im oversized on heat
and AC

3 pvc is used for direct vent units and need no chimney, you can vent
out a wall

8 no filter, I bet your ducts are full of crap, Im sure there is a place
for a filter or you didnt find it.

"m Ransley" wrote in message
...
Most important is the installer he can make it all work right the first
time, so talk to friends and neighbors. The more you know the more
difficult it gets because so much is offered today. Efficiency goes from
80-95%, there are energy saving VS DC blowers,auto temp tracking
humidifiers and complete thermostat control on high end units. Unless
you live where heating and electric usage is low look into a 95% VS DC,
but get the 10 yr warranty as there is more to go wrong.

Consumer Reports did a pole of apx 35000 over 5 years on reliability
and goodman came in a clear winner of last place.

First you need a written load calculation on the house and maybe
ductwork, Since you are insulating get it both ways, where you are now
and with insulation. and try to go with the lowest btu you can ,
oversize and you will be less comfortable, heating to fast and unevenly,
I insulated later and regret my equipment size as im oversized on heat
and AC

3 pvc is used for direct vent units and need no chimney, you can vent
out a wall

8 no filter, I bet your ducts are full of crap, Im sure there is a place
for a filter or you didnt find it.


Pretty well handled here.

I did some research AFTER I bought my unit and found that when looking at
the higher MERV paper filters, the static pressure was to high for my unit.
Get the contractor to put the next size grill in for the return that way
you can use a higher MERV filter and still hold the static to where it
belongs.

I offer these sites as help

http://www.hvacopcost.com/

http://198.147.238.24/ac_calc/default.asp

You need to concerned about the heating more than the cooling. SEER is a
seasonal COOLing figure.

Since there is a addition DEFINITELY ask for the calculation to be done on
the duct work.

Some of the new furnaces with electronically controlled continuously
variable speed blowers ...create lots of radio and TV interference...
(I think it is Trane but not sure)

I hope the FCC goes after them soon...

Mark

"Mark" wrote in message
oups.com...

Some of the new furnaces with electronically controlled continuously
variable speed blowers ...create lots of radio and TV interference...
(I think it is Trane but not sure)

I hope the FCC goes after them soon...

Mark


I had an older Trane (1990) with a VFD and there was no problems with
interference.

"louie" wrote in message
oups.com...
My furnace has been determined to be unrepairable. Giving the HVAC
contractor the benefit of the doubt for now and assuming he's correct
in this determination (I'm willing to believe it - rusted out heat
exchanger, rusted out burners, bad blower motor, furnace is approx 15
yrs old with some obvious water damage in and around the heat
exchanger).

The house is unoccupied right now while we're doing rennovations and
will probably remain so for the next 2 months or so, so I have the
luxury of some time to look for a good but affordable furnace and
contractor - though sooner is better since drywall mud dries VERY
slowly in a cold house. Here are my needs/wants/ideas, please comment:

1) the house is approximately 1500 sq ft of living space, about 1000 of
that is original, 2 1/2 story, 1920's, uninsulated construction (the
rest is a single story addition with 2x4 walls and fiberglass
insulation).

Well, right off the bat you need to get a complete Manual J load
calculation, and a Manual D duct sizing calculation.
If you cant find a contractor that will do that, pass on their services.


2) single pane storm windows throughout most of the house (I plan to
eventually fix the insulation and windows when money and time allow,
but the furnace is an immediate problem obviously)

Well..actually...
If you are going to get a new furnace, and then go adding insulation and
windows, your manual J will be off after you insulate and then add better
windows, and you might end up with an oversized unit.
All that goes into consideration on sizing.


3) The house has a brick/masonry chimney, at what efficiency rating is
a PVC liner required (or am I wrong in thinking it's required at all?)?

Newer 90% units do not use the chimney...they vent out PVC 3, 4 or 5 inch
pipe.


4) I think a multi or variable speed blower would be beneficial,
comments? worth the extra cost?

Sure is...but get the extended warranty to 10 years on it...you will need
it.


5) Is a two-stage burner worth the extra cost?

Extra cost?
LOL..sorry...how much extra you talking about?


6) the current AC system appears to be an add-on system with an a-frame
shaped evaporator installed into the supply plenum above the furnace
(might have contributed to the water problems that rusted this unit
out). I don't have the funds to replace this, but I might be able to
re-install it properly if it is not currently right.

You are half assin this.
Not to be rude, but Im not the sugar coating kinda guy...

First, all ACs like that are "add ons" and they need to be matched to the
unit.
You cant just go slap a furnace in and change the airflow and expect the ac
to work right. it simply does not happen that way...not on older units.
Also, after Jan 06, no cheaper AC units will be made. Its time to bite the
bullet and get a loan if you have to, and have it done right. Period.
Get a complete manJ and D, and go with what needs to be done.


7) fuel is natural gas, installation is in the basement (unfinished -
unlikely to ever be finished)

8) there is no filtration on this current unit, I'd like to add one but
have not yet decided what type - leaning towards a basic, paper filter
type. No major allergies in this household (some seasonal pollen
allergies, minor)

All you need is pleated paper filters, but you will probably need a return
replaced for this.


Anyway, those are what I'm looking for in features. I've looked at
Trane, Rheem websites so far and will keep trying to educate myself
here. I'm also contacting local contractors to get quotes but haven't
received any yet.

They are ALL garbage when half assed.
I install york..some like em, some dont. I install Trane for the person that
has more money than good sense. I wont install a goodman for any amount of
money.

When you stated that the home had been added on, right off, you need to make
sure its all sized right and chances are, its not.
Figure a slightly larger unit will be determined to be required. The AC
should be replaced at this time. Its much cheaper to do this now, than
later. Your contractor will also find out with the manual D if the duct
system is going to work with todays newer higher airflow units. The duct
isnt an afterthought on the furnace..its part of it. Its either right, or
its wrong. There is no "Ill do this later when I have money" as the furnace
warranty states that improper installation voids it..and if the ducts not
capable of handling it, its improper.
Besides, you are about to drop alot of money...why half ass it, spend MORE
than you have to, and still not be happy with it?


Thanks in advance for advice.