In my old home I used a thermostat that was attached to the wood stove
pipe via a magnet backing. It indicated an ideal wood burn heat and
this resulted in a cup full of suite(sp) during 2 chimmney clean outs
per year. In my new (100 year old home) I have a pacific energy wood
burining insert in the old fireplace. The stove liner runs inside the
chimmney. Any one know of a product or way to determine the stack
temperature - no part of the pipe is exposed to the room. Dry firewood
is always used / a good rapid burn is used for the first 1/2 hour on a
new fire.

Thanks

wrote in message
ups.com...
In my old home I used a thermostat that was attached to the wood stove
pipe via a magnet backing. It indicated an ideal wood burn heat and
this resulted in a cup full of suite(sp) during 2 chimmney clean outs
per year. In my new (100 year old home) I have a pacific energy wood
burining insert in the old fireplace. The stove liner runs inside the
chimmney. Any one know of a product or way to determine the stack
temperature - no part of the pipe is exposed to the room. Dry firewood
is always used / a good rapid burn is used for the first 1/2 hour on a
new fire.

Thermometer with a very long probe? Can you drill a hole safely someplace
for it?

"Edwin Pawlowski" wrote in message
news:MZ_jf.26$605.2@trndny09...

wrote in message
ups.com...
In my old home I used a thermostat that was attached to the wood stove
pipe via a magnet backing. It indicated an ideal wood burn heat and
this resulted in a cup full of suite(sp) during 2 chimmney clean outs
per year. In my new (100 year old home) I have a pacific energy wood
burining insert in the old fireplace. The stove liner runs inside the
chimmney. Any one know of a product or way to determine the stack
temperature - no part of the pipe is exposed to the room. Dry firewood
is always used / a good rapid burn is used for the first 1/2 hour on a
new fire.

Thermometer with a very long probe? Can you drill a hole safely someplace
for it?

pyrometer? the one for a kiln can be on a long wire because the readout may
be a box on the wall.

If it's an EPA-approved (afterburning) unit, and doesn't use a
catalytic converter, it's simpler to manage the fire so that the
secondary combustion flames stay lit at as low an output rate as
possible, until all the volatiles are gone. That'll give you a clean
burn and best efficiency.

Fact is, current woodstoves don't have an ideal stack temp. They can be
run cleanly over a wide range of output, often with little variation in
efficiency- as indicated by stack temp. Local dealer advised me to put
the thermometer on the top of the stove to indicate output, for this
reason. Now I just use if for decoration and tracking startup.

To keep it clean, keep all the internal fires burning, especially the
one where the secondary air is admitted.

J