I found a leak in the connection of a 3" PVC drain during wet testing.
I cut out the bad fitting and replaced it with a length of pipe that
has a regular coupler on one end and a repair-coupler on the other.
These pipes will not move lengthwise so a regular coupler can not be
put on both ends. The repair-coupler has no center ridge so it can
slide completely over one pipe and after the pipes are aligned it can
be center over both pipes. I have tried this four times, cutting out
more sections but I always get a leaky joint.

I install the pipe and regular coupler on one end before installing the
repair-coupler. I put glue on the ends of both pipes, the
repair-coupler and more glue on the pipes. I shove the repair-coupler
on one pipe so it doesn't stick out, align the pipes and pull the
repair-coupler back over both pipes. I try to twist the repair-coupler
a quarter turn; the results vary but with regular glue I was able to
twist it OK.

I have tried both Oatey Heavy Duty PVC Cement (green) and Oatey Regular
PVC Cement (gold). The heavy duty stuff is thick and doesn't give me
enough time. Once it dried so fast I couldn't pull the repair-coupler
back over both pipes. Another time I was able to center the
repair-coupler but it took a huge effort. The regular glue was much
easier to work with but in all cases I ended up with a leaky joint. I
test by filling the pipe with water after two hours of dry time. There
is no pressure other than the weight of the water. This is what my
inspector wants me to do.

Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this problem is.

Is there a better technique? I noticed it leaks on the side of the
coupler were the second pipe is attached. The pipe that I slid the
coupler complete on before centering is OK.

With the heavy duty cement I cleaned the pipes with Oatley Cleaner
(yellow). With the regular cement I cleaned the pipes with 100-grit
sand paper. Could this be a problem?

Has anyone used these PVC repair-couplers? I doesn't seem like it
should be this hard. I'd rather not use the rubber things.

....old-ee

oldee wrote:
I found a leak in the connection of a 3" PVC drain during wet testing.
I cut out the bad fitting and replaced it with a length of pipe that
has a regular coupler on one end and a repair-coupler on the other.
These pipes will not move lengthwise so a regular coupler can not be
put on both ends. The repair-coupler has no center ridge so it can
slide completely over one pipe and after the pipes are aligned it can
be center over both pipes. I have tried this four times, cutting out
more sections but I always get a leaky joint.

I install the pipe and regular coupler on one end before installing the
repair-coupler. I put glue on the ends of both pipes, the
repair-coupler and more glue on the pipes. I shove the repair-coupler
on one pipe so it doesn't stick out, align the pipes and pull the
repair-coupler back over both pipes. I try to twist the repair-coupler
a quarter turn; the results vary but with regular glue I was able to
twist it OK.

I have tried both Oatey Heavy Duty PVC Cement (green) and Oatey Regular
PVC Cement (gold). The heavy duty stuff is thick and doesn't give me
enough time. Once it dried so fast I couldn't pull the repair-coupler
back over both pipes. Another time I was able to center the
repair-coupler but it took a huge effort. The regular glue was much
easier to work with but in all cases I ended up with a leaky joint. I
test by filling the pipe with water after two hours of dry time. There
is no pressure other than the weight of the water. This is what my
inspector wants me to do.

Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this problem is.

Is there a better technique? I noticed it leaks on the side of the
coupler were the second pipe is attached. The pipe that I slid the
coupler complete on before centering is OK.

With the heavy duty cement I cleaned the pipes with Oatley Cleaner
(yellow). With the regular cement I cleaned the pipes with 100-grit
sand paper. Could this be a problem?

Has anyone used these PVC repair-couplers? I doesn't seem like it
should be this hard. I'd rather not use the rubber things.

...old-ee

Greetings,

a) there is nothing wrong with using a Fernco ("rubber things")
b) if the glue works on the regular coupler it should also work on the
repair coupler regardless of temperature
c) is there a very small diameter mismatch? Try taking a regular
coupler and removing the ridge to make it into a repair coupler.
d) WORK FASTER. I know it is hard but don't let the thing sit around
for the glue to harden.
e) Does it always leak on the same side of the repair coupler? For
instance, does it always leak on the side you slide it onto or the side
you slide it off of? You might try sliding it 2/3 onto the side it
always leaks from instead of 1/2 onto each side.

Hope this helps,
William

"oldee" wrote in message
oups.com...
I found a leak in the connection of a 3" PVC drain during wet testing.
I cut out the bad fitting and replaced it with a length of pipe that
has a regular coupler on one end and a repair-coupler on the other.
These pipes will not move lengthwise so a regular coupler can not be
put on both ends. The repair-coupler has no center ridge so it can
slide completely over one pipe and after the pipes are aligned it can
be center over both pipes. I have tried this four times, cutting out
more sections but I always get a leaky joint.

I install the pipe and regular coupler on one end before installing the
repair-coupler. I put glue on the ends of both pipes, the
repair-coupler and more glue on the pipes. I shove the repair-coupler
on one pipe so it doesn't stick out, align the pipes and pull the
repair-coupler back over both pipes. I try to twist the repair-coupler
a quarter turn; the results vary but with regular glue I was able to
twist it OK.

I have tried both Oatey Heavy Duty PVC Cement (green) and Oatey Regular
PVC Cement (gold). The heavy duty stuff is thick and doesn't give me
enough time. Once it dried so fast I couldn't pull the repair-coupler
back over both pipes. Another time I was able to center the
repair-coupler but it took a huge effort. The regular glue was much
easier to work with but in all cases I ended up with a leaky joint. I
test by filling the pipe with water after two hours of dry time. There
is no pressure other than the weight of the water. This is what my
inspector wants me to do.

Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this problem is.

Is there a better technique? I noticed it leaks on the side of the
coupler were the second pipe is attached. The pipe that I slid the
coupler complete on before centering is OK.

With the heavy duty cement I cleaned the pipes with Oatley Cleaner
(yellow). With the regular cement I cleaned the pipes with 100-grit
sand paper. Could this be a problem?

Has anyone used these PVC repair-couplers? I doesn't seem like it
should be this hard. I'd rather not use the rubber things.

...old-ee

3 inch PVC in the attic? If it is not a vertical pipe then there is
something different about your installation than what I am familiar with.

2 hours at 50 F pretty short time frame. Better let it sit over night.

What color is the pipe? If it is black, ABS then you maybe using the wrong
material and cement.

Thanks for your prompt replies.

The pipes are the same nominal size. When dry the coupler fits real
snug on both pipes, it takes some effort to slide it on either pipe.

I'm not sure if it always leaks from the same side. Sometimes it leaks
on top, sometimes on bottom but I can't remember which pipe I slid the
coupler on first except the last time. The last time I did it it leaked
from the second side.

It is a vertical pipe. Its actually in the stairway on the way up to
the attic. Its not in heated space.

I'll let it sit longer.

This is white PVC pipe.

....old-ee

"oldee" wrote in message
oups.com...
Thanks for your prompt replies.

The pipes are the same nominal size. When dry the coupler
fits real
snug on both pipes, it takes some effort to slide it on
either pipe.

I'm not sure if it always leaks from the same side.
Sometimes it leaks
on top, sometimes on bottom but I can't remember which
pipe I slid the
coupler on first except the last time. The last time I did
it it leaked
from the second side.

It is a vertical pipe. Its actually in the stairway on the
way up to
the attic. Its not in heated space.

I'll let it sit longer.

This is white PVC pipe.

You can try a bead of PVC cement on the outside of the
leaking pipe after it has dried. If you can somehow create a
slight vacuum in the pipe while applying this, it will suck
cement into the void and do a better job of sealing. I have
had some success using this method. YMMV.

Bob

oldee wrote:
I found a leak in the connection of a 3" PVC drain during wet testing.
I cut out the bad fitting and replaced it with a length of pipe that
has a regular coupler on one end and a repair-coupler on the other.
These pipes will not move lengthwise so a regular coupler can not be
put on both ends. The repair-coupler has no center ridge so it can
slide completely over one pipe and after the pipes are aligned it can
be center over both pipes. I have tried this four times, cutting out
more sections but I always get a leaky joint.

I install the pipe and regular coupler on one end before installing the
repair-coupler. I put glue on the ends of both pipes, the
repair-coupler and more glue on the pipes. I shove the repair-coupler
on one pipe so it doesn't stick out, align the pipes and pull the
repair-coupler back over both pipes. I try to twist the repair-coupler
a quarter turn; the results vary but with regular glue I was able to
twist it OK.

I have tried both Oatey Heavy Duty PVC Cement (green) and Oatey Regular
PVC Cement (gold). The heavy duty stuff is thick and doesn't give me
enough time. Once it dried so fast I couldn't pull the repair-coupler
back over both pipes. Another time I was able to center the
repair-coupler but it took a huge effort. The regular glue was much
easier to work with but in all cases I ended up with a leaky joint. I
test by filling the pipe with water after two hours of dry time. There
is no pressure other than the weight of the water. This is what my
inspector wants me to do.

Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this problem is.

Is there a better technique? I noticed it leaks on the side of the
coupler were the second pipe is attached. The pipe that I slid the
coupler complete on before centering is OK.

With the heavy duty cement I cleaned the pipes with Oatley Cleaner
(yellow). With the regular cement I cleaned the pipes with 100-grit
sand paper. Could this be a problem?

Has anyone used these PVC repair-couplers? I doesn't seem like it
should be this hard. I'd rather not use the rubber things.

You cleaned the pipe, but did you use primer? Cleaner just cleans,
primer cleans and softens the PVC making for a better weld.

Fernco couplings would be a good, quick solution for you.

R

Use primer instead of cleaner. Primer comes in clear or purple and is
very different from cleaner. Using primer eliminates need for cleaner,
softens pipe and retards initial setting time of glue substantially.
Glue pipe, then fitting, slide fitting on. Glue pipe again and slide
into place, twisting fitting back and forth or rotating constantly as
you slide it until centered.


--
hwm54112
------------------------------------------------------------------------
hwm54112's Profile: http://www.HomeOutfit.com/member.php?userid=127
View this thread: http://www.HomeOutfit.com/showthread.php?t=63441

oldee wrote:

I found a leak in the connection of a 3" PVC drain during wet testing.
I cut out the bad fitting and replaced it with a length of pipe that
has a regular coupler on one end and a repair-coupler on the other.
These pipes will not move lengthwise so a regular coupler can not be
put on both ends. The repair-coupler has no center ridge so it can
slide completely over one pipe and after the pipes are aligned it can
be center over both pipes. I have tried this four times, cutting out
more sections but I always get a leaky joint.

I install the pipe and regular coupler on one end before installing the
repair-coupler. I put glue on the ends of both pipes, the
repair-coupler and more glue on the pipes. I shove the repair-coupler
on one pipe so it doesn't stick out, align the pipes and pull the
repair-coupler back over both pipes. I try to twist the repair-coupler
a quarter turn; the results vary but with regular glue I was able to
twist it OK.

I have tried both Oatey Heavy Duty PVC Cement (green) and Oatey Regular
PVC Cement (gold). The heavy duty stuff is thick and doesn't give me
enough time. Once it dried so fast I couldn't pull the repair-coupler
back over both pipes. Another time I was able to center the
repair-coupler but it took a huge effort. The regular glue was much
easier to work with but in all cases I ended up with a leaky joint. I
test by filling the pipe with water after two hours of dry time. There
is no pressure other than the weight of the water. This is what my
inspector wants me to do.

Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this problem is.

Is there a better technique? I noticed it leaks on the side of the
coupler were the second pipe is attached. The pipe that I slid the
coupler complete on before centering is OK.

With the heavy duty cement I cleaned the pipes with Oatley Cleaner
(yellow). With the regular cement I cleaned the pipes with 100-grit
sand paper. Could this be a problem?

Has anyone used these PVC repair-couplers? I doesn't seem like it
should be this hard. I'd rather not use the rubber things.

...old-ee


FWIW, my plumber told me always to use the purple primer followed by
the green-can clear cement. I have, and I've never experienced a
problem. Follow precisely the instructions on the cans.

Works for me; I hope it does for you.

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

The most simple solution would be to use no-hub band clamps on
both joints with no glue.
http://www.fernco.com/NH.asp

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"oldee" wrote in message
oups.com...
I found a leak in the connection of a 3" PVC drain during wet
testing.
I cut out the bad fitting and replaced it with a length of pipe
that
has a regular coupler on one end and a repair-coupler on the
other.
These pipes will not move lengthwise so a regular coupler can
not be
put on both ends. The repair-coupler has no center ridge so it
can
slide completely over one pipe and after the pipes are aligned
it can
be center over both pipes. I have tried this four times, cutting
out
more sections but I always get a leaky joint.

I install the pipe and regular coupler on one end before
installing the
repair-coupler. I put glue on the ends of both pipes, the
repair-coupler and more glue on the pipes. I shove the
repair-coupler
on one pipe so it doesn't stick out, align the pipes and pull
the
repair-coupler back over both pipes. I try to twist the
repair-coupler
a quarter turn; the results vary but with regular glue I was
able to
twist it OK.

I have tried both Oatey Heavy Duty PVC Cement (green) and Oatey
Regular
PVC Cement (gold). The heavy duty stuff is thick and doesn't
give me
enough time. Once it dried so fast I couldn't pull the
repair-coupler
back over both pipes. Another time I was able to center the
repair-coupler but it took a huge effort. The regular glue was
much
easier to work with but in all cases I ended up with a leaky
joint. I
test by filling the pipe with water after two hours of dry time.
There
is no pressure other than the weight of the water. This is what
my
inspector wants me to do.

Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this
problem is.

Is there a better technique? I noticed it leaks on the side of
the
coupler were the second pipe is attached. The pipe that I slid
the
coupler complete on before centering is OK.

With the heavy duty cement I cleaned the pipes with Oatley
Cleaner
(yellow). With the regular cement I cleaned the pipes with
100-grit
sand paper. Could this be a problem?

Has anyone used these PVC repair-couplers? I doesn't seem like
it
should be this hard. I'd rather not use the rubber things.

...old-ee

You are attempting a pretty difficult task in trying to cement and position
a second surface before the first one sets. You will have to have everything
ready and work fast. There are slow-setting adhesives made for larger pipes
like those used for mains. That would give you more time to rotate the
coupling to distribute the cement. Check at a plumbing supply house.
Actually a rubber coupling is the proper thing to use in this particular
case as long as your inspector approves it.
Don Young
"oldee" wrote in message
oups.com...
I found a leak in the connection of a 3" PVC drain during wet testing.
I cut out the bad fitting and replaced it with a length of pipe that
has a regular coupler on one end and a repair-coupler on the other.
These pipes will not move lengthwise so a regular coupler can not be
put on both ends. The repair-coupler has no center ridge so it can
slide completely over one pipe and after the pipes are aligned it can
be center over both pipes. I have tried this four times, cutting out
more sections but I always get a leaky joint.

I install the pipe and regular coupler on one end before installing the
repair-coupler. I put glue on the ends of both pipes, the
repair-coupler and more glue on the pipes. I shove the repair-coupler
on one pipe so it doesn't stick out, align the pipes and pull the
repair-coupler back over both pipes. I try to twist the repair-coupler
a quarter turn; the results vary but with regular glue I was able to
twist it OK.

I have tried both Oatey Heavy Duty PVC Cement (green) and Oatey Regular
PVC Cement (gold). The heavy duty stuff is thick and doesn't give me
enough time. Once it dried so fast I couldn't pull the repair-coupler
back over both pipes. Another time I was able to center the
repair-coupler but it took a huge effort. The regular glue was much
easier to work with but in all cases I ended up with a leaky joint. I
test by filling the pipe with water after two hours of dry time. There
is no pressure other than the weight of the water. This is what my
inspector wants me to do.

Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this problem is.

Is there a better technique? I noticed it leaks on the side of the
coupler were the second pipe is attached. The pipe that I slid the
coupler complete on before centering is OK.

With the heavy duty cement I cleaned the pipes with Oatley Cleaner
(yellow). With the regular cement I cleaned the pipes with 100-grit
sand paper. Could this be a problem?

Has anyone used these PVC repair-couplers? I doesn't seem like it
should be this hard. I'd rather not use the rubber things.

...old-ee

Thanks for your suggestions.

I had been using cleaner and primer interchangeably. I didn't realize
they were different. On this joint I used cleaner or sandpaper.

From Oatey's web site I found dry time below 50F for a 3" pipe is 12
hours for 10% of rated pressure and 20 hours for 100%. I calculated the
wet test pressure to be 2.6 psi; it has 6' of water above the joint.

I tried RicodJour's vacuum and bead suggestion. It sounds like a great
idea. Since the pipes are plugged for the wet test, I put a small board
on the remaining opening at the top of the pipe. I opened a drain an
easily hooked up my shop vacuum before apply some glue to the joint.
I'll test it after it dries.

....old-ee

I found a leak in the connection of a 3" PVC drain during wet testing.

Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this problem is.

You have a drain running through an attic? What're you doing about making
sure it doesn't freeze?

wkearney99 wrote:

I found a leak in the connection of a 3" PVC drain during wet testing.

Could it be too cold? Its about 50F in my attic where this problem is.


You have a drain running through an attic? What're you doing about making
sure it doesn't freeze?

How often would you expect a 3 inch drain in an attic to be full of water?

--
The e-mail address in our reply-to line is reversed in an attempt to
minimize spam. Our true address is of the form .

The vacuum / glue bead suggestion worked. My leak is gone. Thanks Bob!
I unintentionally suggested this was somebody else's idea in my last
post. I created a vacuum in the pipe with a shop vac while I applied
glue to the bad joint.

You have a drain running through an attic? What're you doing
about making sure it doesn't freeze?

I'm finishing my attic and installing a bath. This pipe will eventually
be in heated space. Of course almost all houses have vent stacks in the
attic, put they don't get wet because they are above all fixtures.

How often would you expect a 3 inch drain in an attic to be
full of water?

I expect my pipe to be full of water one more time during the rough
plumbing inspection.

Thanks for all of the suggestions,
old-ee.

oldee wrote:

I'm finishing my attic and installing a bath. This pipe will eventually
be in heated space. Of course almost all houses have vent stacks in the
attic, put they don't get wet because they are above all fixtures.

Not exactly. Depending on where the vent is it can carry rain water
caught at the roof vent. I found that one out the hard way on one
project - eight years after the fact. The plumber hadn't glued the PVC
correctly and had used some silicone caulk to "fix" his ineptness.
Eventually the caulk failed and the leak showed up as discoloration on
the drywall ceiling near a wall.

The pressure test is overkill for a vent, but I understand the
reasoning and don't know of a better way to accomplish a watertight
test.

R

"oldee" wrote in message
oups.com...
The vacuum / glue bead suggestion worked. My leak is gone.
Thanks Bob!

Glad I could help. You are welcome.

Bob