I broke off both of the rusted screws holding my shower overflow plate
on. I was able to back out the first one using a vicegrips but the
other one broke off too short.

I cut it flat then tried to drill it out with a 3/32 bit but it
sliped. Now I have a dip started in the center plus another grove
down to the side. Do you need to apply a lot of pressure when you
drill out a screw? How do you keep the bit centered?

--
Bob Simon
remove both "x"s from domain for private replies

"I cut it flat then tried to drill it out with a 3/32 bit but it
sliped. Now I have a dip started in the center plus another grove
down to the side. Do you need to apply a lot of pressure when you
drill out a screw? How do you keep the bit centered? "

This is always tricky. You need to start with a small center punch to
make an indent dead center before drilling. It takes a moderate amount
of pressure. Too much and you'll break off the small drill bit. And
you pretty much have one shot at it. If you go off course and bugger
it up, then you're in more trouble.

On 17 Nov 2005 10:29:30 -0800, wrote:

"I cut it flat then tried to drill it out with a 3/32 bit but it
sliped. Now I have a dip started in the center plus another grove
down to the side. Do you need to apply a lot of pressure when you
drill out a screw? How do you keep the bit centered? "

This is always tricky. You need to start with a small center punch to
make an indent dead center before drilling. It takes a moderate amount
of pressure. Too much and you'll break off the small drill bit. And
you pretty much have one shot at it. If you go off course and bugger
it up, then you're in more trouble.

Yes, I broke my cobalt bit and, as you say, may have bugger'ed it up.
I'm hoping that with a new bit and (hopefully) a steadier hand I'll be
able to get back on track.

--
Bob Simon
remove both "x"s from domain for private replies

I need a little more help with this project. After successfully
drilling out the center of a broken off screw, I thought the hard part
was over. Apparently not.

Then I used a screw extractor to try to remove what was left of the
screw. I used steady even pressure on the T-bar handle but the
extractor bit twisted off in the screw.

1) How should I have done this differently so the extractor would have
removed the screw without breaking.

2) Is there any hope of removing the extractor now?
Bob


On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 12:24:16 -0600, Bob Simon
wrote:

I broke off both of the rusted screws holding my shower overflow plate
on. I was able to back out the first one using a vicegrips but the
other one broke off too short.

I cut it flat then tried to drill it out with a 3/32 bit but it
sliped. Now I have a dip started in the center plus another grove
down to the side. Do you need to apply a lot of pressure when you
drill out a screw? How do you keep the bit centered?

"Bob Simon" wrote in message
...

I need a little more help with this project. After successfully
drilling out the center of a broken off screw, I thought the hard part
was over. Apparently not.

Then I used a screw extractor to try to remove what was left of the
screw. I used steady even pressure on the T-bar handle but the
extractor bit twisted off in the screw.

In your place I should ask the maker of the extractor
tool whether his tool was designed to be stronger than
or weaker than the screws it was to extract.

Prospects of removal do not look good. The original screw
presumably has a a right-hand thread and the extractor
was designed to use a left-hand thread. The effort you use
to get the extractor tool out of the screw is likely to make
the screw itself tighter, not looser.

--
Don Phillipson
Carlsbad Springs
(Ottawa, Canada)

Bob Simon wrote:
I need a little more help with this project. After successfully
drilling out the center of a broken off screw, I thought the hard part
was over. Apparently not.

Then I used a screw extractor to try to remove what was left of the
screw. I used steady even pressure on the T-bar handle but the
extractor bit twisted off in the screw.

1) How should I have done this differently so the extractor would have
removed the screw without breaking.

2) Is there any hope of removing the extractor now?
Bob


On Thu, 17 Nov 2005 12:24:16 -0600, Bob Simon
wrote:


I broke off both of the rusted screws holding my shower overflow plate
on. I was able to back out the first one using a vicegrips but the
other one broke off too short.

I cut it flat then tried to drill it out with a 3/32 bit but it
sliped. Now I have a dip started in the center plus another grove
down to the side. Do you need to apply a lot of pressure when you
drill out a screw? How do you keep the bit centered?

You probably used too small a drill and too small
an extractor. If they are small you have to be
very careful to not put ANY side pressure on the
drill or the extractor. The best bet when they
screw is very small is just drill the whole think
out and recut the threads for a larger size.

In your case you are screwed. Time to cut your
losses and just get another part or just use one
screw to hold the plate on.

On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 22:16:01 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote:

Bob Simon wrote:
I need a little more help with this project. After successfully
drilling out the center of a broken off screw, I thought the hard part
was over. Apparently not.

Then I used a screw extractor to try to remove what was left of the
screw. I used steady even pressure on the T-bar handle but the
extractor bit twisted off in the screw.

1) How should I have done this differently so the extractor would have
removed the screw without breaking.

2) Is there any hope of removing the extractor now?
Bob


You probably used too small a drill and too small
an extractor. If they are small you have to be
very careful to not put ANY side pressure on the
drill or the extractor. The best bet when they
screw is very small is just drill the whole think
out and recut the threads for a larger size.

In your case you are screwed. Time to cut your
losses and just get another part or just use one
screw to hold the plate on.

Thank you for your advice. Before I give up entirely on removing the
extractor bit (and the original screw) I wonder if a high speed drill
and diamond-tipped cutting bit might work. I've been wanting an
excuse to buy a Dremel kit (or equivalent) anyway, just never had a
specific need for one until now.

Bob...I feel for ya!

I did this very repair this weekend...and like you chased alternatives
all over the place. My resolution was to take the wall access cover
off, remove and replace the upper assembly...finally life is good.

My problem started when I tried to drill the screws out, and of course
the brass is much softer than the screws, and the new holes drifted off
center, too much to recover. The correct drill for 1/4 NC tap is I
believe a number 7....yup bought them too!

BTW -- a local hardware store sold the upper assembly (brass) for $40,
where as the BORG sold the whole brass assembly including gaskets,
washers, nuts and all for $30. Replaced the upper half...now all the
lower half is left over. They also have plastic assemblies for about
half that.

Best of luck to you...

Darwin

"Bob Simon" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 22:16:01 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote:

Bob Simon wrote:
I need a little more help with this project. After successfully
drilling out the center of a broken off screw, I thought the hard part
was over. Apparently not.

Then I used a screw extractor to try to remove what was left of the
screw. I used steady even pressure on the T-bar handle but the
extractor bit twisted off in the screw.

1) How should I have done this differently so the extractor would have
removed the screw without breaking.

2) Is there any hope of removing the extractor now?
Bob


You probably used too small a drill and too small
an extractor. If they are small you have to be
very careful to not put ANY side pressure on the
drill or the extractor. The best bet when they
screw is very small is just drill the whole think
out and recut the threads for a larger size.

In your case you are screwed. Time to cut your
losses and just get another part or just use one
screw to hold the plate on.

Thank you for your advice. Before I give up entirely on removing the
extractor bit (and the original screw) I wonder if a high speed drill
and diamond-tipped cutting bit might work. I've been wanting an
excuse to buy a Dremel kit (or equivalent) anyway, just never had a
specific need for one until now.

no.

if you take it to a machine shop, they can use a mill to get it out. it
might cost you more to fix it than replace it though.

It is possible to do this with diamond or carbide tools but it is not nearly
as easy as it might seem. A rotary tool with a grinding type stone does no
cutting at the center. Hard drills have edges that are very brittle and
easily broken if not cutting steadily against a smooth surface. Hand holding
the tool gets difficult as the bit contacts the work and tries to fling the
tool sideways. The bit tries to move away from the hard extractor and into
the softer metal around it. It is your decision and there is not much to
lose in trying it if you are careful not to get something in your eye or
otherwise hurt yourself. You will at least gain experience. [I always try to
repair unrepairable things just to see if I can or to learn why I can't!
:)]
Don Young
"Bob Simon" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 20 Nov 2005 22:16:01 GMT, "George E. Cawthon"
wrote:

Bob Simon wrote:
I need a little more help with this project. After successfully
drilling out the center of a broken off screw, I thought the hard part
was over. Apparently not.

Then I used a screw extractor to try to remove what was left of the
screw. I used steady even pressure on the T-bar handle but the
extractor bit twisted off in the screw.

1) How should I have done this differently so the extractor would have
removed the screw without breaking.

2) Is there any hope of removing the extractor now?
Bob


You probably used too small a drill and too small
an extractor. If they are small you have to be
very careful to not put ANY side pressure on the
drill or the extractor. The best bet when they
screw is very small is just drill the whole think
out and recut the threads for a larger size.

In your case you are screwed. Time to cut your
losses and just get another part or just use one
screw to hold the plate on.

Thank you for your advice. Before I give up entirely on removing the
extractor bit (and the original screw) I wonder if a high speed drill
and diamond-tipped cutting bit might work. I've been wanting an
excuse to buy a Dremel kit (or equivalent) anyway, just never had a
specific need for one until now.

Bob Simon wrote:
Then I used a screw extractor to try to remove what was left of the screw.
I used steady even pressure on the T-bar handle but the extractor bit
twisted off in the screw.


I think they are made to break off, leaving you no choice but to buy a new
"whatever".
If everything around the broke off extractor is metal you can heat up the
extractor till it is red hot and let it cool a little then try drilling it
out.
The heat will take the temper out of the extractor.
--
JerryD(upstateNY)