I have a tub, two sinks, a toilet, on the 2nd floor. They are the only
fixtures that drain into a Cast Iron Stack which is now clogged. This
drain line leads to a shallow 30" crawlspace with a dirt floor and very
difficult access (must crawl 25 feet to get to it). The drain runs
vertically along the short foundation wall, then heads horizonally
through the wall, just below the ground. Basically, the only piping
accessible from the crawlspace is a cast-iron 90.

The problem: There is no cleanout to get a snake into.

I would like to add a cast-iron cleanout just outside the foundation
wall, since the drain line is only a few inches deep right there. I
will snap the drain line, and add a cast Iron cleanout with the propper
no hub connectors.

Does this sound like a reasonable course of action? Is there another
way I should go? I have only worked with Cast Iron a few times before.
I figure two snap-cuts, two no-hub connectors, and I have a cleanout.

"hanson" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a tub, two sinks, a toilet, on the 2nd floor. They are the only
fixtures that drain into a Cast Iron Stack which is now clogged. This
drain line leads to a shallow 30" crawlspace with a dirt floor and very
difficult access (must crawl 25 feet to get to it). The drain runs
vertically along the short foundation wall, then heads horizonally
through the wall, just below the ground. Basically, the only piping
accessible from the crawlspace is a cast-iron 90.

The problem: There is no cleanout to get a snake into.

I would like to add a cast-iron cleanout just outside the foundation
wall, since the drain line is only a few inches deep right there. I
will snap the drain line, and add a cast Iron cleanout with the propper
no hub connectors.

Does this sound like a reasonable course of action? Is there another
way I should go? I have only worked with Cast Iron a few times before.
I figure two snap-cuts, two no-hub connectors, and I have a cleanout.


Modern clean outs are in both directions. One elbow heading into the house
and one heading to the street. Personally I would call someone cause I do
not like dealing with "dirty water"
I am not totally positive due to my understanding of the description of
where the clog is.

Have you tried snaking from the vent? Harder, I will agree, and you will
need a smaller head than if you were snaking the main line. Might get it
open so that water can do its job.
Have you pulled the toilet? They are usually pretty short runs before they
get to the main line.

You are headed the right way. You might consider a double clean
out, 2 combo's on their backs, bottom to bottom, to allow cleaning
either direction. your municipality may require a backwater
valve, though they can become maintenance hassles. here is about
the only picture I could find of a double cleanout, scroll down to
the Texas Twin Cleanout:
http://www.abifoundry.com/catalog_price.htm#Twin%20Cleanout%20(East%20Bay%20 Code)
They can be made easily with PVC combos or wyes.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"hanson" wrote in message
oups.com...
I have a tub, two sinks, a toilet, on the 2nd floor. They are
the only
fixtures that drain into a Cast Iron Stack which is now clogged.
This
drain line leads to a shallow 30" crawlspace with a dirt floor
and very
difficult access (must crawl 25 feet to get to it). The drain
runs
vertically along the short foundation wall, then heads
horizonally
through the wall, just below the ground. Basically, the only
piping
accessible from the crawlspace is a cast-iron 90.

The problem: There is no cleanout to get a snake into.

I would like to add a cast-iron cleanout just outside the
foundation
wall, since the drain line is only a few inches deep right
there. I
will snap the drain line, and add a cast Iron cleanout with the
propper
no hub connectors.

Does this sound like a reasonable course of action? Is there
another
way I should go? I have only worked with Cast Iron a few times
before.
I figure two snap-cuts, two no-hub connectors, and I have a
cleanout.

hanson wrote:
I have a tub, two sinks, a toilet, on the 2nd floor. They are the only
fixtures that drain into a Cast Iron Stack which is now clogged. This
drain line leads to a shallow 30" crawlspace with a dirt floor and very
difficult access (must crawl 25 feet to get to it). The drain runs
vertically along the short foundation wall, then heads horizonally
through the wall, just below the ground. Basically, the only piping
accessible from the crawlspace is a cast-iron 90.

The problem: There is no cleanout to get a snake into.

I would like to add a cast-iron cleanout just outside the foundation
wall, since the drain line is only a few inches deep right there. I
will snap the drain line, and add a cast Iron cleanout with the propper
no hub connectors.

Does this sound like a reasonable course of action? Is there another
way I should go? I have only worked with Cast Iron a few times before.
I figure two snap-cuts, two no-hub connectors, and I have a cleanout.


Thanks for your assistance. I did try to snake from the roof, but the
snake did not make it very far before I hit an obstruction...Of course
I snaked around like crazy with no luck. Strangely, the head of the
snake had dirt (not mud) on it when I pulled it back out. Also, the
vent is not lined up with the toilet which is not lined up with the
main drain (seems strange, perhaps I am incorrect, though it is quite
an old house with some additions). I decided that I wanted to add a
cleanout anyway, so I did not try pulling the toilet.

Since the time that you both posted, I already added a cleanout (thanks
for advice on getting a double clean-out) and I cleared the clog. Now,
there is another problem, but at least I know the main drain is clear.


New Problem:

All of the 2nd floor fixtures are draining fine, except for the tub.
When water is drained from the tub, or someone takes a shower, water
comes out from under the toilet! (FYI the toilet is adjacent to the
tub). And in the crawlspace, I can see water pouring down the OUTSIDE
of the soil stack! I plan on snaking the tub tomorrow, but what do you
think is going on? I reset the toilet only a month ago, perhaps the
"wax ring" clogged an inlet coming from the tub. Or may the tub trap
is just rotted out.

Please let me know your thoughts, and if there is anything I should do
besides snaking the tub tomorrow. Thanks!

You must need a double wax ring on the toilet. If it were well
sealed, water shouldn't get out there. Say it another way - if
water can get out there, sewer gas can get out there. That tub
drain will be difficult to auger, it almost demands getting to the
piping. If it ends up having an old fashioned drum trap on the
line, you will be repiping it almost for certain. You might try a
plumber's friend first to see if you can jar it loose and get it
running I am having a difficult time imagining what could be
blocked enough to force water up at the wax ring and yet allow the
toilet to flow.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"hanson" wrote in message
oups.com...

hanson wrote:
I have a tub, two sinks, a toilet, on the 2nd floor. They are
the only
fixtures that drain into a Cast Iron Stack which is now
clogged. This
drain line leads to a shallow 30" crawlspace with a dirt floor
and very
difficult access (must crawl 25 feet to get to it). The drain
runs
vertically along the short foundation wall, then heads
horizonally
through the wall, just below the ground. Basically, the only
piping
accessible from the crawlspace is a cast-iron 90.

The problem: There is no cleanout to get a snake into.

I would like to add a cast-iron cleanout just outside the
foundation
wall, since the drain line is only a few inches deep right
there. I
will snap the drain line, and add a cast Iron cleanout with the
propper
no hub connectors.

Does this sound like a reasonable course of action? Is there
another
way I should go? I have only worked with Cast Iron a few times
before.
I figure two snap-cuts, two no-hub connectors, and I have a
cleanout.


Thanks for your assistance. I did try to snake from the roof,
but the
snake did not make it very far before I hit an obstruction...Of
course
I snaked around like crazy with no luck. Strangely, the head of
the
snake had dirt (not mud) on it when I pulled it back out. Also,
the
vent is not lined up with the toilet which is not lined up with
the
main drain (seems strange, perhaps I am incorrect, though it is
quite
an old house with some additions). I decided that I wanted to
add a
cleanout anyway, so I did not try pulling the toilet.

Since the time that you both posted, I already added a cleanout
(thanks
for advice on getting a double clean-out) and I cleared the
clog. Now,
there is another problem, but at least I know the main drain is
clear.


New Problem:

All of the 2nd floor fixtures are draining fine, except for the
tub.
When water is drained from the tub, or someone takes a shower,
water
comes out from under the toilet! (FYI the toilet is adjacent to
the
tub). And in the crawlspace, I can see water pouring down the
OUTSIDE
of the soil stack! I plan on snaking the tub tomorrow, but what
do you
think is going on? I reset the toilet only a month ago, perhaps
the
"wax ring" clogged an inlet coming from the tub. Or may the tub
trap
is just rotted out.

Please let me know your thoughts, and if there is anything I
should do
besides snaking the tub tomorrow. Thanks!

hanson wrote:

hanson wrote:

I have a tub, two sinks, a toilet, on the 2nd floor. They are the only
fixtures that drain into a Cast Iron Stack which is now clogged. This
drain line leads to a shallow 30" crawlspace with a dirt floor and very
difficult access (must crawl 25 feet to get to it). The drain runs
vertically along the short foundation wall, then heads horizonally
through the wall, just below the ground. Basically, the only piping
accessible from the crawlspace is a cast-iron 90.

The problem: There is no cleanout to get a snake into.

I would like to add a cast-iron cleanout just outside the foundation
wall, since the drain line is only a few inches deep right there. I
will snap the drain line, and add a cast Iron cleanout with the propper
no hub connectors.

Does this sound like a reasonable course of action? Is there another
way I should go? I have only worked with Cast Iron a few times before.
I figure two snap-cuts, two no-hub connectors, and I have a cleanout.



Thanks for your assistance. I did try to snake from the roof, but the
snake did not make it very far before I hit an obstruction...Of course
I snaked around like crazy with no luck. Strangely, the head of the
snake had dirt (not mud) on it when I pulled it back out. Also, the
vent is not lined up with the toilet which is not lined up with the
main drain (seems strange, perhaps I am incorrect, though it is quite
an old house with some additions). I decided that I wanted to add a
cleanout anyway, so I did not try pulling the toilet.

Since the time that you both posted, I already added a cleanout (thanks
for advice on getting a double clean-out) and I cleared the clog. Now,
there is another problem, but at least I know the main drain is clear.


New Problem:

All of the 2nd floor fixtures are draining fine, except for the tub.
When water is drained from the tub, or someone takes a shower, water
comes out from under the toilet! (FYI the toilet is adjacent to the
tub). And in the crawlspace, I can see water pouring down the OUTSIDE
of the soil stack! I plan on snaking the tub tomorrow, but what do you
think is going on? I reset the toilet only a month ago, perhaps the
"wax ring" clogged an inlet coming from the tub. Or may the tub trap
is just rotted out.

Please let me know your thoughts, and if there is anything I should do
besides snaking the tub tomorrow. Thanks!

Hi,
Wonder if tub drain vent is blocked?
Tony

On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 20:45:31 -0600, "DanG" wrote:

You must need a double wax ring on the toilet. If it were well
sealed, water shouldn't get out there. Say it another way - if
water can get out there, sewer gas can get out there. That tub
drain will be difficult to auger, it almost demands getting to the
piping. If it ends up having an old fashioned drum trap on the
line, you will be repiping it almost for certain. You might try a
plumber's friend first to see if you can jar it loose and get it
running I am having a difficult time imagining what could be
blocked enough to force water up at the wax ring and yet allow the
toilet to flow.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"hanson" wrote in message
roups.com...

hanson wrote:
I have a tub, two sinks, a toilet, on the 2nd floor. They are
the only
fixtures that drain into a Cast Iron Stack which is now
clogged. This
drain line leads to a shallow 30" crawlspace with a dirt floor
and very
difficult access (must crawl 25 feet to get to it). The drain
runs
vertically along the short foundation wall, then heads
horizonally
through the wall, just below the ground. Basically, the only
piping
accessible from the crawlspace is a cast-iron 90.

The problem: There is no cleanout to get a snake into.

I would like to add a cast-iron cleanout just outside the
foundation
wall, since the drain line is only a few inches deep right
there. I
will snap the drain line, and add a cast Iron cleanout with the
propper
no hub connectors.

Does this sound like a reasonable course of action? Is there
another
way I should go? I have only worked with Cast Iron a few times
before.
I figure two snap-cuts, two no-hub connectors, and I have a
cleanout.


Thanks for your assistance. I did try to snake from the roof,
but the
snake did not make it very far before I hit an obstruction...Of
course
I snaked around like crazy with no luck. Strangely, the head of
the
snake had dirt (not mud) on it when I pulled it back out. Also,
the
vent is not lined up with the toilet which is not lined up with
the
main drain (seems strange, perhaps I am incorrect, though it is
quite
an old house with some additions). I decided that I wanted to
add a
cleanout anyway, so I did not try pulling the toilet.

Since the time that you both posted, I already added a cleanout
(thanks
for advice on getting a double clean-out) and I cleared the
clog. Now,
there is another problem, but at least I know the main drain is
clear.


New Problem:

All of the 2nd floor fixtures are draining fine, except for the
tub.
When water is drained from the tub, or someone takes a shower,
water
comes out from under the toilet! (FYI the toilet is adjacent to
the
tub). And in the crawlspace, I can see water pouring down the
OUTSIDE
of the soil stack! I plan on snaking the tub tomorrow, but what
do you
think is going on? I reset the toilet only a month ago, perhaps
the
"wax ring" clogged an inlet coming from the tub. Or may the tub
trap
is just rotted out.

Please let me know your thoughts, and if there is anything I
should do
besides snaking the tub tomorrow. Thanks!

On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 20:45:31 -0600, "DanG" wrote:

You must need a double wax ring on the toilet. If it were well
sealed, water shouldn't get out there. Say it another way - if
water can get out there, sewer gas can get out there. That tub
drain will be difficult to auger, it almost demands getting to the
piping. If it ends up having an old fashioned drum trap on the
line, you will be repiping it almost for certain. You might try a
plumber's friend first to see if you can jar it loose and get it
running I am having a difficult time imagining what could be
blocked enough to force water up at the wax ring and yet allow the
toilet to flow.

Collapsed pipe an/or a root-clog, further down the line,
so that there's enough volume in the pipe to take one
flush (or maybe two), but which fills up when you put
a tubfull of water into it. That will seep down over
several hours of non-use, and then appear to work again.

Goedjn wrote:

Collapsed pipe an/or a root-clog, further down the line,
so that there's enough volume in the pipe to take one
flush (or maybe two), but which fills up when you put
a tubfull of water into it. That will seep down over
several hours of non-use, and then appear to work again.

I second this assessment. I hope we're wrong. If we're right, break out
the wallet.