I am replacing carpet on the 3rd floor of a town home, and at the same
time screwing down the 3/4" plywood to fix a plethora of squeaks and
uneven boards.

I've been considering adding insulation between floors. There are
in-ceiling speakers below and it would be nice to muffle this a bit
more as well as insulate the 2nd floor from 3rd floor sounds more. The
air gap, sheetrock, and pad/carpet does a decent job but a little more
sound insulation would be nice.

My big question is related to fire safety and insulation type. There
are standard light cans in the ceiling and I'm uncertain how these need
to be handled. Could I blow loose fill attic-type insulation in there?
So I would just perhaps to make three or so cutouts in the sub-floor to
do this.

Entire 3rd floor is approx 20x50'. Two rooms, a hallway, and two
bathrooms.

Any advice?

Thanks,
-Mike

Some recessed lights are rated for contact with insulation.
Many are not.
Putting insulation in contact with these is a fire hazard.
Cutting holes in the floor probably invalidates a required fire rating
for the separation between units.
In addition, the space between floor and ceiling probably does not
belong to you.
TB

I don't think it would be worthwhile, and I worry about the fire hazard.
Definitely you need any insulation to be a long way from recessed lighting.
Newer recessed lights have to be rated 'IC' vs 'nonIC', but you may not be
able to tell on an old installation. Insulation between floors is not as
effective as you might think for a sound barrier, since a lot of sound comes
through the wooden joists rather than the air. I put insulation into a floor
but it didn't help a lot. I later struggled to fish a wire past that #!
insulation. If there are speakers you might be able to wrap the speakers
themselves without putting insulation everywhere.

Dave


"mikeorb" wrote in message
oups.com...
I am replacing carpet on the 3rd floor of a town home, and at the same
time screwing down the 3/4" plywood to fix a plethora of squeaks and
uneven boards.

I've been considering adding insulation between floors. There are
in-ceiling speakers below and it would be nice to muffle this a bit
more as well as insulate the 2nd floor from 3rd floor sounds more. The
air gap, sheetrock, and pad/carpet does a decent job but a little more
sound insulation would be nice.

My big question is related to fire safety and insulation type. There
are standard light cans in the ceiling and I'm uncertain how these need
to be handled. Could I blow loose fill attic-type insulation in there?
So I would just perhaps to make three or so cutouts in the sub-floor to
do this.

Entire 3rd floor is approx 20x50'. Two rooms, a hallway, and two
bathrooms.

Any advice?

Thanks,
-Mike

mikeorb wrote:
I am replacing carpet on the 3rd floor of a town home, and at the same
time screwing down the 3/4" plywood to fix a plethora of squeaks and
uneven boards.

I've been considering adding insulation between floors. There are
in-ceiling speakers below and it would be nice to muffle this a bit
more as well as insulate the 2nd floor from 3rd floor sounds more. The
air gap, sheetrock, and pad/carpet does a decent job but a little more
sound insulation would be nice.

My big question is related to fire safety and insulation type. There
are standard light cans in the ceiling and I'm uncertain how these need
to be handled. Could I blow loose fill attic-type insulation in there?
So I would just perhaps to make three or so cutouts in the sub-floor to
do this.

Entire 3rd floor is approx 20x50'. Two rooms, a hallway, and two
bathrooms.

Any advice?

Thanks,
-Mike


You have to keep insulation away from the light cans (like a
metal ring a specific distance from the lights). You need
the light manufactures specs. Blowing insulation is not
going to be very effective, in fact, you would need to tear
up the ceiling to do anything effective.

You best bet is the floor above. Add a layer of sound
deadening cloth (lead material) under the pad, a thicker
pad, or a heavier carpet.

Thanks for all the replies. I checked the cans and they are Juno IC22
which is rated for direct contact with insulation. But it sounds like
it is not worth the hassle, and localized insulation around the
speakers would be one way to go if the speaker does not need an air gap
for proper sound.


Regards,
-Mike