I have an older Bryant 394 and a new M35 Johnson Controls Vent Damper.
Photos and diagrams are he

http://66.103.136.252/Vent/index.html

.... need help in figuring out which Vent Damper wires go where.

Thank you for helping me figure it out!

And you want to put a vent damper on that older furnace because?


"Michael Stoic" wrote in message
...

I have an older Bryant 394 and a new M35 Johnson Controls Vent Damper.
Photos and diagrams are he

http://66.103.136.252/Vent/index.html

... need help in figuring out which Vent Damper wires go where.

Thank you for helping me figure it out!

a google of the device suggests it's a 24 volt which by your
illustration says you're attaching to a furnace that has a standing
pilot light? in this project you must be converting to pilotless. if
your photo shows the tab broken away, separating W from Gas-1 [i cant
read the circuit board maybe your on board yellow?] it looks like the
flue damper must be enabled to switch the formerly tabbed closed
circuit from open to closed to provide power to the gas valve solenoid.
so of the 4 new M35 wires, use the ohmmeter to find the low ohms of the
actuating pair that opens the damper. when that pair gets its 24V the
damper opens, closing the formerly tabbed circuit wire pair from their
normally open state. the M35B also displays a green light. with your
meter set to measure ac i would look for 24vac on R and C of the Bryant
when the thermostat calls for heat. before connecting i'd try one or
maybe two 9 volt batteries in series to actuate the m35 pair you
tested to operate the damper before you connect it. here's where that
bag of different colored alligator jumpers is useful. if you have
damper activation, then use ohmmeter to test the other m35 pair
normally open but closed when the damper is fully activated.

you may want these or similar pages:
http://cgproducts.johnsoncontrols.co...&hc=57&req=M35