Hello,

I'm about to order and install some wood blinds for our livingroom window.
Because the window is quite large (156" wide), I am installing three
seperate blinds. I would like to know the gap allowance I should use
between the blinds. The smaller the gap, the better the light control but
I don't want to get into difficulties with installation and operation.

Thanks

"Doug Smith" wrote in message
5...
Hello,

I'm about to order and install some wood blinds for our livingroom window.
Because the window is quite large (156" wide), I am installing three
seperate blinds. I would like to know the gap allowance I should use
between the blinds. The smaller the gap, the better the light control but
I don't want to get into difficulties with installation and operation.

Thanks

I got some from the Box store here and you just give them the opening
dimension if your going inside the opening like I did. If your attaching
outside of the window just order so it overhangs the outside by what ever
amount you care to have it over lap. My 2" wood blinds just fit inside my
drywall opening and the slats them selves are about 1/4" away from the edge
and have a 1/2" gap in the center. I have two windows and two blinds so the
1/2" gap it over the center divider for the two windows. Also keep in mind
that the 2" wood blinds I have don't close completely, what I mean is if I
close them all the way and go outside I can look up and see into the room.
Keep that in mind when your buying what ever size slats your looking at.

Rich

"Doug Smith" wrote in message
5...
Hello,

I'm about to order and install some wood blinds for our livingroom window.
Because the window is quite large (156" wide), I am installing three
seperate blinds. I would like to know the gap allowance I should use
between the blinds. The smaller the gap, the better the light control but
I don't want to get into difficulties with installation and operation.

Thanks

I install these for a living.

You are smart to do 3 blinds. Anything over about 48" is to heavy to lift.

You may want to check out the custom made faux wood at about half the price.
No one but you will know the difference!

If you want to get it right the first time, measure the opening at the top,
middle and bottom use the smaller measurement. Assuming 156" is the correct
number order 3 blinds at 52" IB. IB means the factory will deduct 1/2" from
each blind (verify the IB deduction from the place you order). You will need
3 blinds that total 1.5" less than the actual opening width to allow for the
brackets. Your brackets will set right next to each other on the center
sections. You may need to trim the valences a bit depending on your window
configuration.

If on the other hand your window is not divided into equal parts as many are
not, measure to the center point of the divide in all three places. Order 3
individual blinds at those dimensions as IB mount. Triple check yourself by
making sure that the total of the 3 measures is = to the full opening width.

FYI.
IB mount means the blind is going inside an opening that measures the IB
amount.
OB means the blind is mounting on the casing or otherwise should be made
this exact width.

It is always a good plan to make your blind height/length 1/4" longer than
it measures so it will never swing in the breeze.


Colbyt

Thanks for the replies.

My window has 3 sections. The two ends are about 25" wide each, with a
large 89" section in the middle (I guess I'm actually a bit less than
156" wide total). Of course I'll get correct measurements before
ordering. The outside sections open with cranks.

So I don't know if I'm smart or not, I was planning on having one large
blind in the middle. The 1/2" between blinds would be covered by the
window section trim. I don't want a 1/2" gap down the middle of the
window, I thought it would look kind of weird. Perhaps you can advise
on what this would look like, I don' think I've ever seen an example.
The window is about 7' off the ground and 5' high by 12.5' wide. Would
a gap in the middle look bad?

I was kind of aware that the middle blind would be difficult to lift. I
thought it would be okay to leave it down most of the time and have the
ends raised and lowered. If needed, I've assumed that two people could
raise the middle blind easily (one person pulling the rope, I person
helping to lift the blind).

Thanks for the advise about the 2" btw.

Finally, pricing where I am seems to be:
wood blinds from large store is the same as nice faux wood from blind
shop. The wood blinds from the blind shop are at least 80% more than
from the large store. In other words, in our case (5' x 12.5'), wood
blinds from borg is about $800. The nice faux wood is about $800. The
wood from the blind shop is about $1500. I can't tell much difference
from the wood finishes between the borg and the blind shop, and in some
cases I prefer the look of the wood finish from the borg. Because our
window is only 18" off the oak floors, I thought the best look would to
have matching oak blinds. Some of the faux wood did have a similar
acceptable finish though. The faux wood has the advantage of easier
maintainance with guarranteed no fading.

thanks

"Colbyt" wrote in
news:L3X5f.499776$xm3.70768@attbi_s21:


"Doug Smith" wrote in message
5...
Hello,

I'm about to order and install some wood blinds for our livingroom
window. Because the window is quite large (156" wide), I am
installing three seperate blinds. I would like to know the gap
allowance I should use between the blinds. The smaller the gap, the
better the light control but I don't want to get into difficulties
with installation and operation.

Thanks

I install these for a living.

You are smart to do 3 blinds. Anything over about 48" is to heavy to
lift.

You may want to check out the custom made faux wood at about half the
price. No one but you will know the difference!

If you want to get it right the first time, measure the opening at the
top, middle and bottom use the smaller measurement. Assuming 156" is
the correct number order 3 blinds at 52" IB. IB means the factory
will deduct 1/2" from each blind (verify the IB deduction from the
place you order). You will need 3 blinds that total 1.5" less than the
actual opening width to allow for the brackets. Your brackets will set
right next to each other on the center sections. You may need to trim
the valences a bit depending on your window configuration.

If on the other hand your window is not divided into equal parts as
many are not, measure to the center point of the divide in all three
places. Order 3 individual blinds at those dimensions as IB mount.
Triple check yourself by making sure that the total of the 3 measures
is = to the full opening width.

FYI.
IB mount means the blind is going inside an opening that measures the
IB amount.
OB means the blind is mounting on the casing or otherwise should be
made this exact width.

It is always a good plan to make your blind height/length 1/4" longer
than it measures so it will never swing in the breeze.


Colbyt

"Doug Smith" wrote in message
.. .
Thanks for the replies.

My window has 3 sections. The two ends are about 25" wide each, with a
large 89" section in the middle (I guess I'm actually a bit less than
156" wide total). Of course I'll get correct measurements before
ordering. The outside sections open with cranks.

So I don't know if I'm smart or not, I was planning on having one large
blind in the middle. The 1/2" between blinds would be covered by the
window section trim. I don't want a 1/2" gap down the middle of the
window, I thought it would look kind of weird. Perhaps you can advise
on what this would look like, I don' think I've ever seen an example.
The window is about 7' off the ground and 5' high by 12.5' wide. Would
a gap in the middle look bad?

I was kind of aware that the middle blind would be difficult to lift. I
thought it would be okay to leave it down most of the time and have the
ends raised and lowered. If needed, I've assumed that two people could
raise the middle blind easily (one person pulling the rope, I person
helping to lift the blind).

Thanks for the advise about the 2" btw.

Finally, pricing where I am seems to be:
wood blinds from large store is the same as nice faux wood from blind
shop. The wood blinds from the blind shop are at least 80% more than
from the large store. In other words, in our case (5' x 12.5'), wood
blinds from borg is about $800. The nice faux wood is about $800. The
wood from the blind shop is about $1500. I can't tell much difference
from the wood finishes between the borg and the blind shop, and in some
cases I prefer the look of the wood finish from the borg. Because our
window is only 18" off the oak floors, I thought the best look would to
have matching oak blinds. Some of the faux wood did have a similar
acceptable finish though. The faux wood has the advantage of easier
maintainance with guarranteed no fading.

thanks


You had it right for you window comfig. You will never be happy with a
joint in the middle of a window. 25-89-25 is the way to go.This being an
exception to the general rule. If you have a choice of tilt controls go with
the two string (cord tilt) as opposed to the wand type. They work smoother,
are easier to use and seem to last longer on the larger blinds. You will
need a helper to install the large one. Be sure to install all the center
supports. Most people who have two inch blinds never raise them except to
clean the windows.

A word about quality. Quality is determined by things the average person
never notices. That is why almost all the companies have several grades.
The slat thickness will vary from grade to grade. The number of coats of
paint may vary. The smoothness of the wood will vary. The quality of the
cord pulls will vary from wood to really cheap plastic. The internal
components in the headrail may be of metal or plastic. All have some plastic
but avoid the ones where they are all plastic except for the metal tilt rod.
The number of vertical ladders can vary. On a real wood the ladders may be
up to 24" apart. On a quality faux blind the distance is never more than
12". The wonderwood product made by many using Hunter- Douglas components is
a quality faux product. Some of the major brand names sold in the BORG are
not of the same level.

As for color, 99% of what the professional decorators sell is some shade of
white. It goes with any decor, offends no one and hides dust quite well. The
general rule is you blend with the color of your window trim. For future
resale potential I can assure that white is the choice.

Colbyt

You had it right for you window comfig. You will never be happy with
a joint in the middle of a window. 25-89-25 is the way to go.This
being an exception to the general rule. If you have a choice of tilt
controls go with the two string (cord tilt) as opposed to the wand
type. They work smoother, are easier to use and seem to last longer
on the larger blinds. You will need a helper to install the large one.
Be sure to install all the center supports. Most people who have two
inch blinds never raise them except to clean the windows.

A word about quality. Quality is determined by things the average
person never notices. That is why almost all the companies have
several grades. The slat thickness will vary from grade to grade. The
number of coats of paint may vary. The smoothness of the wood will
vary. The quality of the cord pulls will vary from wood to really
cheap plastic. The internal components in the headrail may be of metal
or plastic. All have some plastic but avoid the ones where they are
all plastic except for the metal tilt rod. The number of vertical
ladders can vary. On a real wood the ladders may be up to 24" apart.
On a quality faux blind the distance is never more than 12". The
wonderwood product made by many using Hunter- Douglas components is
a quality faux product. Some of the major brand names sold in the
BORG are not of the same level.

As for color, 99% of what the professional decorators sell is some
shade of white. It goes with any decor, offends no one and hides dust
quite well. The general rule is you blend with the color of your
window trim. For future resale potential I can assure that white is
the choice.

Colbyt


The borg I'm checking out carries Hunter&Douglas, Levolor, and
Shadeomatic. I think they are all priced similar, when comparing similar
products. More expensive products are from other canadian wood blind
suppliers. That's a good idea to check the smoothness of the finish,
smoother will be much easier to keep clean.

Our window trim and vinyl windows are white, and the surrounding walls
are off-white/cream. I'm not sure if I want more white in the room.
Certainly it's a good suggestion. I just thought matching the blinds to
the floor would be a nice touch to break up the white, and the natural
wood should be a fairly neutral color. However, the faux wood option
(polywood) is very tempting too. It's maintanance, finish and simplicity
is attractive.

thanks