I have a door that, due to structure settling, the latch no longer
enters the hole in the stirker plate on the jamb. In the past I've
been able to enlarge the hole in the striker plate and everything fits
again. But what remedy is there when another 1/16" is needed? Due to
the hole in the wood jamb for the latch it is not easy to just
relocate the striker plate since there is no place to put the screws
in. By the way, resquaring the jamb and/or remounting the door is not
an option at this time.


John Keith

John Keith wrote:

I have a door that, due to structure settling, the latch no longer
enters the hole in the stirker plate on the jamb. In the past I've
been able to enlarge the hole in the striker plate and everything fits
again. But what remedy is there when another 1/16" is needed? Due to
the hole in the wood jamb for the latch it is not easy to just
relocate the striker plate since there is no place to put the screws
in. By the way, resquaring the jamb and/or remounting the door is not
an option at this time.

Fill the existing holes w/ solid material (wooden match sticks and
carpenters glue works well) and you can then move the striker plate
whereever you need it...

John Keith wrote:
I have a door that, due to structure settling, the latch no longer
enters the hole in the stirker plate on the jamb. In the past I've
been able to enlarge the hole in the striker plate and everything fits
again. But what remedy is there when another 1/16" is needed? Due to
the hole in the wood jamb for the latch it is not easy to just
relocate the striker plate since there is no place to put the screws
in. By the way, resquaring the jamb and/or remounting the door is not
an option at this time.

Can you replace the strike plate with a larger one in which the screw
holes are farther apart?

John,

It is not unusual to file the strike hole to allow the latch bolt
in. I'm not sure whether you have done this or not. If is a
matter of enlarging the hole in the wood, you should be able to
accomplish with a sharp chisel. If you mean that the hole is so
large that it is on the verge of hitting the screw, perhaps we
need another solution.

To gain a little height on the door, assuming the bottom of the
door can stand to move toward the strike side, undo the bottom
hinge and install a thin cardboard shim under the hinge. If
necessary, you can install one under the hinge on both the door
and the jamb.

Hope this helps.

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"John Keith" wrote in message
...
I have a door that, due to structure settling, the latch no
longer
enters the hole in the stirker plate on the jamb. In the past
I've
been able to enlarge the hole in the striker plate and
everything fits
again. But what remedy is there when another 1/16" is needed?
Due to
the hole in the wood jamb for the latch it is not easy to just
relocate the striker plate since there is no place to put the
screws
in. By the way, resquaring the jamb and/or remounting the door
is not
an option at this time.


John Keith

"John Keith" wrote in message
...
I have a door that, due to structure settling, the latch no longer
enters the hole in the stirker plate on the jamb. In the past I've
been able to enlarge the hole in the striker plate and everything fits
again. But what remedy is there when another 1/16" is needed? Due to
the hole in the wood jamb for the latch it is not easy to just
relocate the striker plate since there is no place to put the screws
in. By the way, resquaring the jamb and/or remounting the door is not
an option at this time.

I would remove the striker plate, carefully mark on the jamb the top and
bottom of the latch bolt where it strikes the jamb, then fill the existing
jamb hole with a solid, drillable material, like Plastic Wood or some other
xylene based self hardening putty. Then mount a new striker plate so that
the latch bolt just grazes the top of the hole in the striker, allowing for
future settling in the same direction. Alternatively, if there is still room
to do it, you could remove the striker and use a file to file out the needed
1/16th of an inch at the base of the hole, then chisel out the corresponding
space in the jamb, to accomodate the bolt.

You can either call a locksmith, or you can just put up with it for the rest
of your life.

You're sunk, Mr. Battleship. Fold down the lid of the game, and go to bed.
Remember to brush your teeth.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"John Keith" wrote in message
...
I have a door that, due to structure settling, the latch no longer
enters the hole in the stirker plate on the jamb. In the past I've
been able to enlarge the hole in the striker plate and everything fits
again. But what remedy is there when another 1/16" is needed? Due to
the hole in the wood jamb for the latch it is not easy to just
relocate the striker plate since there is no place to put the screws
in. By the way, resquaring the jamb and/or remounting the door is not
an option at this time.


John Keith

On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 11:26:09 -0600, Christian Fox
wrote:

In article 5va4f.894$OM4.823@dukeread06, says...
To gain a little height on the door, assuming the bottom of the
door can stand to move toward the strike side, undo the bottom
hinge and install a thin cardboard shim under the hinge. If
necessary, you can install one under the hinge on both the door
and the jamb.

Ditto on the shims under the hinges. I did this for our main entrance door and it worked
like a charm to re-square the door to the jamb and allow the deadbolt to properly enter
the strike plate.

Unrelated to this particular problem: My front door didn't shut well
for a while, and I tightened the hinges, etc. Didn't work but a
month later the door was easy to lock again, no pushing or slamming
required. 8 months later, I'm sitting on the floor with my head
near the floor, and I see that the weather strip that engages the
groove in the threshrhold is bent. The left half goes into the groove
and the right half has been pushed downwards so it points at the
floor. I haven't fixed it yet, but it's good to know why it didn't
close and then why it did.




Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 10:38:09 -0500, Duane Bozarth
wrote:

John Keith wrote:

I have a door that, due to structure settling, the latch no longer
enters the hole in the stirker plate on the jamb. In the past I've
been able to enlarge the hole in the striker plate and everything fits
again. But what remedy is there when another 1/16" is needed? Due to
the hole in the wood jamb for the latch it is not easy to just
relocate the striker plate since there is no place to put the screws
in. By the way, resquaring the jamb and/or remounting the door is not
an option at this time.

Fill the existing holes w/ solid material (wooden match sticks and
carpenters glue works well) and you can then move the striker plate
whereever you need it...

Ditto on the wood matches. Big "kitchen" wood matches and round wood
toothpicks are very often the best things to use**. It's nice that
they make them!

**My mother taught me that. I think her father taught her.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

John Keith wrote:
I have a door that, due to structure settling, the latch no longer
enters the hole in the stirker plate on the jamb. In the past I've
been able to enlarge the hole in the striker plate and everything fits
again. But what remedy is there when another 1/16" is needed? Due to
the hole in the wood jamb for the latch it is not easy to just
relocate the striker plate since there is no place to put the screws
in. By the way, resquaring the jamb and/or remounting the door is not
an option at this time.


John Keith


If I understand right, the door or the jamb is
sagging. You don't have to move the plate.
Remove the plate, put it in a vice and file 1/16
(actually a bit more) from the top or bottom
(whichever is needed)of the plate opening. Use a
chisel and cut out the required wood. Replace the
plate.

On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 16:31:39 GMT, All Thumbs
wrote:

Can you replace the strike plate with a larger one in which the screw
holes are farther apart?

That's an interesting suggestion! Are larger striker plates made? This
is a common problem and it would seem that a solution like this would
have a good market.



John Keith

On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 11:55:26 -0500, "DanG" wrote:

It is not unusual to file the strike hole to allow the latch bolt
in. I'm not sure whether you have done this or not.

Yes, I have done that. And I am at the point of interfering with the
screw.

To gain a little height on the door, assuming the bottom of the
door can stand to move toward the strike side, undo the bottom
hinge and install a thin cardboard shim under the hinge. If
necessary, you can install one under the hinge on both the door
and the jamb.

Shims might work for very small adjustments (review your geometry
skills) but in this case I need more adjustment than what a cardboard
or other shim would provide. By the way, the vertical side of the door
and jamb are in good alignment (I suppose this is the normal case for
settling issues) and while there might be some room for some
misalignment in the vertical I don't want to do that. Part of the
problem lies with the original location of the striker plate. From the
wear marks on the surface it is clear the plate was not centered on
the latch from the beginning (it was off by about 3/16" from being
properly centered.)


John Keith

"John Keith" wrote in message
...
I have a door that, due to structure settling, the latch no longer
enters the hole in the stirker plate on the jamb. In the past I've
been able to enlarge the hole in the striker plate and everything fits
again. But what remedy is there when another 1/16" is needed? Due to
the hole in the wood jamb for the latch it is not easy to just
relocate the striker plate since there is no place to put the screws
in. By the way, resquaring the jamb and/or remounting the door is not
an option at this time.


How about squaring up the house a little? I've seen doors like yours where
the problem was fixed in the basement, via a screwpost and a couple of
spreader plates, as close as possible to where the sagging is occuring. Only
takes a few minutes to install, and give it a whack every day till things
start moving. Pretty cheap, too.

aem sends...

John Keith wrote:
On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 16:31:39 GMT, All Thumbs
wrote:

Can you replace the strike plate with a larger one in which the screw
holes are farther apart?

That's an interesting suggestion! Are larger striker plates made? This
is a common problem and it would seem that a solution like this would
have a good market.

I had to deal with a similar problem before, and a larger strike plate
was one of the options considered (although not the one subsequently
chosen).

They do make strike plates in different sizes (I've seen at least two in
a local big-box store). Whether that helps depends on the "geometry" of
your problem. A larger strike plate may allow you to relocate the screws
to where there is wood for them to go into.

In my case filing the strike plate to accomodate the latch bolt was not
an option. I ended up enlarging the hole on the door jamb and moving the
strike plate. The repositiong moved one of the screw holes into the
wrong place -- the hole that the latch bolt goes into. I dealt with that
with a longer screw. (That worked in my case but it may or may not work
in yours.)

The fun part of the project was enlarging the hole. I couldn't figure
out how to do it with a Forstner bit until somebody taught me a trick.

On Sun, 16 Oct 2005 02:47:31 GMT, "ameijers"
wrote:

How about squaring up the house a little? I've seen doors like yours where
the problem was fixed in the basement, via a screwpost and a couple of
spreader plates, as close as possible to where the sagging is occuring. Only
takes a few minutes to install, and give it a whack every day till things
start moving. Pretty cheap, too.

Unfortunately the person I am helping lives in a multi-unit condo and
she is in the upper unit, hence I don't really have access to the
foundation level.

I've trimmed the latch hole opening as close to the screw hole as
possible and on Monday I'll find out if that is succiificient. If not,
I'll be looking for a longer striker plate.


John Keith

John Keith wrote:
I have a door that, due to structure settling, the latch no longer
enters the hole in the stirker plate on the jamb. In the past I've
been able to enlarge the hole in the striker plate and everything fits
again. But what remedy is there when another 1/16" is needed? Due to
the hole in the wood jamb for the latch it is not easy to just
relocate the striker plate since there is no place to put the screws
in. By the way, resquaring the jamb and/or remounting the door is not
an option at this time.

That's good, because there's no need to do either. In a subsequent
post you mentioned that the strike was never installed centered and
that your filing work is starting to interfere with the screw hole.
Time for a new plate.

Whether it's new different, new same, you still have to rework the
mortise for the plate depth, and maybe the latch hole itself. Simple
enough to do and would probably take you less time than you've already
invested filing and futzing with the existing strike. As other's have
noted, toothpicks, glue and putty, a little paint, good to go.

R

Now that you have shared a little more of the story, here are some
more ideas. I would be curious whether the floor structure was
wood, steel, or concrete. I think you could take a couple of very
thing shims under the bottom of the hinge side of the door and
raise the door quickly and positively and do no more futzing with
the strike. This will work whether the jamb is steel or wood. To
get the shims started or get a feel if this is going to work,
slide a thin crow bar in first. You might be surprised what a
little movement will do.,

(top posted for your convenience)
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"John Keith" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 16 Oct 2005 02:47:31 GMT, "ameijers"
wrote:

How about squaring up the house a little? I've seen doors like
yours where
the problem was fixed in the basement, via a screwpost and a
couple of
spreader plates, as close as possible to where the sagging is
occuring. Only
takes a few minutes to install, and give it a whack every day
till things
start moving. Pretty cheap, too.

Unfortunately the person I am helping lives in a multi-unit
condo and
she is in the upper unit, hence I don't really have access to
the
foundation level.

I've trimmed the latch hole opening as close to the screw hole
as
possible and on Monday I'll find out if that is succiificient.
If not,
I'll be looking for a longer striker plate.


John Keith

On Sat, 15 Oct 2005 09:23:20 -0600, John Keith wrote:

I have a door that, due to structure settling, the latch no longer
enters the hole in the stirker plate on the jamb. In the past I've
been able to enlarge the hole in the striker plate and everything fits
again. But what remedy is there when another 1/16" is needed? Due to
the hole in the wood jamb for the latch it is not easy to just
relocate the striker plate since there is no place to put the screws
in. By the way, resquaring the jamb and/or remounting the door is not
an option at this time.


John Keith


Don't know if you can get a full 1/16th lower out of this but it might
be worth a try.

Loosen the screws in place about 1 and a half turns.

Place blade of large flathead screwdriver on bottom of hole in striker
plate. (or the top of the opening hole if you want to raise the
striker plate.)

Apply several sharpish taps to the top of the screwdriver with a
household hammer.

Retighten screws lightly. The plate will move towards it's original
position but not as much as before.

Close door and see if you gained enough.

Celebrate or go to Plan B.


FACE

Final Solution:

I did enlarge the latch hole opening until it just touched the screw
hole and this was sufficient to allow the latch to enter the hole. I
used a nibbler to enlarge the hole rather than a file, much faster and
a cleaner edge on the final opening. I also checked at Home Depot and
they did have striker plates longer than original one so by enlarging
the recess I could have mounted this larger plate centered on the
latch and solved the problem that way. Only issue with that solution
is they wanted about $4 for it.

Thanks for all the dialogue. I appreciate the variety of suggestions.



John Keith