Obviously, I'm the world's worst ceiling painter. I use good paint (Sherwin
Williams), stir it well, apply it with the right equipment (3/8" nap
roller), keep a wet edge, and the ceiling still ends up with roller marks
despite my best efforts to apply an even paint film.

Suggestions?

"Kyle Boatright" wrote in message ...
Obviously, I'm the world's worst ceiling painter. I use good paint (Sherwin
Williams), stir it well, apply it with the right equipment (3/8" nap
roller), keep a wet edge, and the ceiling still ends up with roller marks
despite my best efforts to apply an even paint film.

Suggestions?

A nap roller might qualify as the "right equipment", but if you want
to avoid the problem simply buy or rent an airless sprayer. Once
you do a job with one, you'll never go back to a roller. They are
sooo much faster and easier..

If you want painting advice, I don't think I would look here. I've been
in the business for over thirty years, and everytime I post a
suggestion, some know-it-all DIY'er tells me I'm wrong. That said, the
answer to your question is, use a 3/4 inch nap roller and flat paint.
Also, use an adjustable extention pole with a roller screen inside a
five gallon bucket. And finally, keep pressue on the side of the roller
that isin the unpainted area, then the side with less pressure erases
the roller marks. Sure an airless is good for ceilings, but the learnng
curve on trigger pull is quite severe and may have you rolling behind
the sprayer.

Kyle Boatright wrote:
Obviously, I'm the world's worst ceiling painter. I use good paint (Sherwin
Williams), stir it well, apply it with the right equipment (3/8" nap
roller), keep a wet edge, and the ceiling still ends up with roller marks
despite my best efforts to apply an even paint film.

Suggestions?




I might rightly question your characterization for _I_ am the world's
worst ceiling painter. Sometimes the worst wall painter too. And let's
not even mention trim...

Ceilings are the worst IMHO because the seeing is often impossible there
since normal room lighting is meant to illuminate everything _but_ the
ceiling. Intense glancing light will make it much easier to see where
you are working although it can quickly turn even a large room into a
sauna. A 500W quartz work light on a stand placing it above head level
works for me.

Another thing I've found in decades of botched ceiling painting is that
there is often a layer of unseen filth there. Start painting and it
mixes with the emulsion and intensifies the streaking. A high-powered
shop vacuum and an extension brush can remove layers of grunge that,
because they were so even, were scarcely visible.

My last invitation to disaster is ceiling history. Last Autumn I painted
the white ceiling in my 40-year-old home's living/dining room: a 25X13
foot expanse of white swirled skim coat plaster. Using good-quality
paint and proper lighting I went over the area using the proper
equipment and technique only to find that the paint disappeared like it
was never applied. Applied a second coat - same thing. Went back to the
store to buy more paint and finally the third coat started to act
somewhat "normal". It appears in hindsight as if that old ceiling might
never have been primed or painted in all its history.

Have fun! In my next life I'm going to find a way to avoid paint
entirely or be rich enough to pay someone else to apply it for me.

--
John McGaw
[Knoxville, TN, USA]
http://johnmcgaw.com

Kyle Boatright wrote:
Obviously, I'm the world's worst ceiling painter. I use good paint
(Sherwin Williams), stir it well, apply it with the right equipment
(3/8" nap roller), keep a wet edge, and the ceiling still ends up
with roller marks despite my best efforts to apply an even paint film.

Suggestions?

Longer nap (3/4), roll each area all ways (normal, cross, both
diagonals) and into adjacent areas, flat paint.

--
dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

"No One" wrote in message ...
If you want painting advice, I don't think I would look here. I've been
in the business for over thirty years, and everytime I post a
suggestion, some know-it-all DIY'er tells me I'm wrong. That said, the
answer to your question is, use a 3/4 inch nap roller and flat paint.
Also, use an adjustable extention pole with a roller screen inside a
five gallon bucket. And finally, keep pressue on the side of the roller
that isin the unpainted area, then the side with less pressure erases
the roller marks. Sure an airless is good for ceilings, but the learnng
curve on trigger pull is quite severe and may have you rolling behind
the sprayer.

Severe? Only if you don't have two brain cells to rub together.
My dad has owned a painting company for 40+ years, and even
as a small kid I used to operate his rigs without any problem.

Agreed, you have to cross at least two ways for
good coverage
On Sun, 09 Oct 2005 21:34:18 GMT, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Kyle Boatright wrote:
Obviously, I'm the world's worst ceiling painter. I use good paint
(Sherwin Williams), stir it well, apply it with the right equipment
(3/8" nap roller), keep a wet edge, and the ceiling still ends up
with roller marks despite my best efforts to apply an even paint film.

Suggestions?

Longer nap (3/4), roll each area all ways (normal, cross, both
diagonals) and into adjacent areas, flat paint.

Get an Italian name. Michelangelo comes to mind.

--

Christopher A. Young
Do good work.
It's longer in the short run
but shorter in the long run.
..
..


"Kyle Boatright" wrote in message
...
Obviously, I'm the world's worst ceiling painter. I use good paint (Sherwin
Williams), stir it well, apply it with the right equipment (3/8" nap
roller), keep a wet edge, and the ceiling still ends up with roller marks
despite my best efforts to apply an even paint film.

Suggestions?